Hardware Misc Tutorial Updated

DSi/DSi XL Problem and Solution Master List (In Progress)

A-Pix DS 0.4 – Pixel art editor for Nintendo DS/DSi!

Alfombra · 2026-05-12T21:44:43+00:00

A-Pix DS is a pixel art editor for Nintendo DS/DSi inspired by YY-CHR, aiming to be as feature-complete as possible within the hardware's capabilities. Features: Multiple color depths and resolutions. Palette editor with index swapping, copy/paste for individual colors or whole sections. Experimental animation system; each frame stores its own palette, enabling palette animations. ROM explorer with vertical scrolling, just like YY-CHR. File explorer with image preview. Supports many retro console formats: NES, SNES 4BPP & 8BPP, GBA 4BPP, GBC 2BPP, plus YYCHR and native NDS/GBA ARGB1555 palettes. Modern format support: PNG, BMP, PCX. Tools: multiple brushes, clipboard, pixel shift with wrap, scale, 90° rotation. 16BPP mode supports semi-transparent brush and transparent background. Zoom and canvas scrolling for comfortable editing. Undo/redo Horizontal and vertical flip Adjustable grid size NES mode What's new in v0.4: Animation support (experimental) Palette editor improvements SNES 8BPP format File previews in explorer ~3x performance boost A few hidden easter eggs Where can I download this tool? https://github.com/Alfombracitario/Alfombra-s-Pixel-Art-Editor-DS I really appreciate feedback, I want to improve this tool as much as possible!

This is a Problems and Solution Master List for Nintendo DSi and DSi XL consoles that I've curated from multiple sources. This Master List aims to address EVERY problem a DSi or DSi XL console can encounter and provide solutions, information, and resources to fix your console. It isn't perfect, some problems have no solutions at the moment, but I'm doing what I can.

Note that this is an incomplete project that is subject to change when I learn new Information and search through more resources. If you have any forums, webpages, videos or other resources that may be useful, then I'd greatly appreciate them.

Due to the complexity, fluidity, and variables involved with Homebrewing, I’ll cover what I can, but any questions would be better suited in the GBAtemp’s Noob Paradise thread.

Sources for this information can be found at the bottom of the document under the “Resources” header. When adding a source to a possible fix, I'll hyperlink the source to a number in an effort to save space. The numbers themselves do not mean anything.

Labeling Convention
Currently working on rewriting this list with this new labeling convention in mind. I will post what I have, but it is a work in progress.

Confirmed: A known solution to the problem. The original poster or commenter of the problem was able to confirm the fix as valid.
Theoretical: Fixes that weren’t confirmed. The original poster or commenter was unable to confirm the fix. Not because the fix didn’t work or wouldn’t work, but there was no confirmation of either conclusion. However, based on the evidence, it is highly probable that the proposed solution would work.
No Solution Found: The default entry until a theoretical or confirmed fix is found. This is usually due to the OP either not providing enough information or the problem doesn’t have a known good solution, as confirmed by other sources.
Personal Stories: Any cases that I come across while working on DSi and DSi XL. I will try to add any niche cases that I come across that aren’t very well described by other sources.
Information: Any source that points to more general information about the issue. This could mean defining what the error is without providing a solution.
Any unmarked solutions are me spitballing ideas and possible fixes that aren’t attached to a link.
Guide: Links to any guides I think are helpful, relative to the problems and the solutions mentioned.
(DSi XL) and (DSi) are based on what I found in my experience, or what is specifically mentioned when researching problems. This doesn’t mean the problems only impact one of these consoles, as it more than likely impacts both. Working on phasing this convention out as I don't believe there are enough significant differences to warrant such a distinction.

Caught the post of an admin who recommends not using spoiler tags, as it interferes with text-crawling software. Current iteration looks good, but artifacts of the nested spoiler tags I used may remain.

I'm also quickly heading towards the character limit here on GBAtemp, so I'll work on getting like issues combined under one subheader.

Also began exploring Word macros that convert my Microsoft Word version of this document into BBCode that GBATemp uses. Current itteration of it looks good, but there are some kinks to work out. Macro is a modified version of Word2WABBCode that Copilot helped me adapt to fit GBATemp's notation.

Boot Related Errors – Errors preventing the Console from Reaching the Main Menu.

Console Doesn’t Turn on when Power Button is Pressed. No screen activity. Maybe some Lights turn on.

No Blue LED Light or Screen Flashing. Nothing happens.

Description: Pressing the power button does nothing. No LED activity or screen activity.
(Sorted into “Charge Status” categories. Charge Status = What does the charge light do when you plug the charger into the console.)

Charge Status: Unknown.

(1) (2) (7) (Theoretical) Bad/Drained Battery
(3) (Theoretical) Blown F1 Fuse on the power Daughter Board. OP used a sketchy charger.
(0) (4) (5) (6) No Solution Found
(Personal Story) Broken component on the motherboard. In one console with no sign of life, I ran across a component that just broke off of the motherboard. It is a Diode labeled D2 via gorgyrip’s PCB schematic, and when I resoldered it to the board, the console booted.
Blown F1 Fuse on Power Daughter Board
Cracked solder joints on power daughter board.
Fault in the power button or power board ribbon cable.

Charge Status: Blinking.

(2) (4) (Confirmed) Reseat the battery.
(2) (Confirmed) Bending the battery contacts to make better connection with the battery.
(2) (Confirmed) Cleaning dirty charge port.
(2) (0) (14) (Confirmed) Blown F1 fuse on the power daughter board. Comments suggest bridging the fuse, but it is always better to replace them.
(2) (Confirmed) Main power connector wires, the red and black wires from the power daughter board, were pinched, probably shorted together, and blew the F1 Fuse on the power daughter board.
(7) (0) (8) (3) (9) (10) (15) (Theoretical) Blown F1 fuse on the Power Board.
(0) (Theoretical) Cracked solder joints on the power board. Could be the F1, the main battery connector, or the two wires.
(12) (Theoretical) Bad battery
(6) (5) (11) (12) (13) (16) (17) No Solution Found.
(2) (Information) “On a DSi the orange charging light blinking indicates improper voltage. It can be the sign of a bad battery, improper battery or one not seated properly. Please try re-seating the battery then put the charger on to see if the charging light stays solid prior to replacing the battery cover.”
(1) (Information) User KleinesSinchen on GBATEMP provides a Process of Elimination protocol for this problem. Copying the information over for the sake of posterity.
Try your charger on another DSi(XL) or 2|3DS(XL) console to verify the charger is working.

The other way round: Try another, known good, charger on your DSi.

Charge your battery in another, known to be working, DSi to verify if your battery accepts charge

Provide a known to work battery in your DSi and see if it charges

[*] After these tests you should know if the charger, the battery or the console has a problem.
[*] For the case the trivial replacement of battery/charger doesn't help; Possible reasons for the console itself not charging (see photo below):

Charging port damaged or loose connection/bad solder joints

Measure voltage on the inner solder joints with charger connected. Gently push the connector in all directions to see if it starts charging when applying a little(!) force. Replace connector if needed

Fuse F1 blown

Measure continuity. If the fuse is blown, replace it (and hope it doesn't blow right away). Be warned this thing is tiny. Not an easy solder job. You can also bridge the fuse: Much easier, but dangerous for the board. I advise against bridging fuses.

Filter(?) EM1 defective

No idea how to check it. Measure voltages of a charging working unit and compare it to yours. I have no idea what part this is; I would use a donor board to get one

Power board not correctly connected (and I think the power board has a fuse as well)

See if you get battery voltage on the white connector at the bottom – the small metal points next to (+) and (-) markings on the mainboard.

Charging IC defective

Same as EM1. Last thing to do. If everything else is okay, I would suspect this little chip. Requires rework station (hot air)

[*] F1 is right below the charging port, EM1 left to F1 and the charging IC is inside the red box in the following picture: (The photo is part of a blog entry I posted months ago, so ignore the text)

Charge Status: Steady.

(6) (Theoretical) Check to make sure the power button is functional and not corroded.
(0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) No Solution Found.
(Personal Story) Oddly enough, I had a console like that where the top screen was the problem. No life. No blue light at all. Unplugging the top screen and attempting the boot showed signs of life. There was nothing obvious about the top screen that points to a certain fault but swapped it with a known good top screen allows the console to boot.

Blue Light Comes on for a moment.

Description: When pressing the power button, the Blue Light comes on for a moment and switches off.
(Sorted into “Charge Status” categories. Charge Status = What does the charge light do when you plug the charger into the console.)
Charge Status: Unknown.

(5) (Theoretical) faulty or dead battery.
(9) (Theoretical?) If I understand OP, the accidentally knocked away C132, and after bridging it, both screen now flash when attempting to boot.
(0) (1) (2) (3) (6) (7) (8) No Solution found
(Personal Story) Bad or disconnected screens. Had a DSi that was worked on by someone, and the top screen ribbon was torn and the backlight for the bottom screen was not plugged it. When powered on, nether of the screens flash. Plugging in the bottom screen LCD ribbon caused the bottom screen to flash on boot revealing the problem to be the screens.
(4) (Information) In 3DS consoles, this is a symptom of a “critical failure in a main data line. Likely you accidentally broke off something small like a SMD resistor or capacitor (or even if not broke off completely, tapped it a little too hard and cracked the solder). This is a failure of a main data line and would need micro soldering motherboard repair under a microscope or replacing the motherboard.”

Charge Status: Blinking

(0) (Confirmed) Though it is uncertain which one was the issue; the issue was identified as fuse issue. Check the two fuses. One is directly downstream of the Charge port, and the other is on the power daughter board.
(1) No Solution Found

Charge Light Blinks when Inserted, but Turns off when Attempting to boot.

Charge Light Blinks when Inserted, but Turns off when attempting to boot.

(0) (Confirmed) Replacing the F1 fuse on the power board fixed the issue.

Charge Light Flashes. Console boots fine with old, swollen battery.

Console Doesn’t Boot. Charge Light Flashes. Console boots fine with old, swollen battery.

(0) (Theoretical) New battery was faulty.

Screens flicker when the charger is plugged in.

(0) No Solution Found.

Console was dropped and doesn’t turn on. No Charging while in Sleep mode.
Console was dropped and doesn’t turn on. No Charging while in Sleep mode

(0) No Solution Found.

Console Tries to Turn on. Screens do Something and/or Lights Turn On.

Top Screen flashes and the console turns off immediately.

Faulty Bottom screen.
Loose or torn bottom LCD backlight ribbon.

Bottom screen flashes once and the console turns off immediately.

(1) (2) (4) (5) (0) (7) (8) (9) (Theoretical) Faulty or disconnected top screen.
(3) (6) (10) (11) (12) No Solution Found
(3) (Information) “Holding L” allowed the Original Poster’s console to boot until the button was released. No known information on how that works.
(8) (Information) “The device does a POST (power on self test). It quickly tests the device to make sure there are no hardware faults. It sends a pulse to the screen (flicker) to test that the screens work. You see the flicker on the bottom screen because it passed the test, the top screen didn’t.” - u/Dryja123
Tear in the top screen ribbon cable. Tears in the cable or broken contact points on the connector. A tear could be caused by the Wi-Fi and/or mic cable or where the cable meets the top shell’s plastics coming from the screen; where the ribbon begins to coil.

Both Screens Flash and the Console Turns Off Immediately.

Description: When pressing the power button, but screens flash/blink once, and the console turns immediately off.
(Sorted into “Charge Status” categories. Charge Status = What does the charge light do when you plug the charger into the console.)
Charge Status: Unknown

(1) (5) (Theoretical) Faulty or uncharged battery.
(0) (2) (4) No Solution Found
(3) (Information) “Try resetting the ribbon cables for the displays. Some would say it's not that because both screens flash but if the connection is loose between some of the ribbons it can still power the screen back light but not detect the display itself” - u/RaveTheFox
Could be a faulty battery or power board.

Charge Status: Blinking

(1) (Confirmed?) Dead battery.
(0) (Theoretical) Inspect battery contacts and clean.
(0) (Theoretical) Reseat Battery and check its voltage (should be about 3.7 volts)

Both Screens Flash, console turns off, but the blue light stays on.

(0) No Solution Found
May be a faulty or loose Wi-Fi Board.

Both Screens flash, console turns off. Console can turn on if brightness is low.

Both Screens flash, console turns off. Console can turn on if brightness is low

(0) (Theoretical) Reseat and clean the ribbon cables for both screens.
(0) (Theoretical) Drained or faulty battery
I can only assume it is a short on the board. Maybe because changing the screen brightness caused it to turn on, maybe it has something to do with the potentiometers. Unknown at this time.

Console boots to the beginning of the splash screen and shuts off. Blue light stays on.

(0) No Solution Found

Console boots to the beginning of the splash screen and freezes.

(0) (Theoretical) Reseat the Wi-Fi Board.

On boot, screens turn on for a moment and the console turns off.

(0) (Theoretical) Drained or faulty battery
(Personal Story) The solution to this problem for one of my consoles was a faulty camera unit. Since the camera unit is a non-essential boot component, how it causes a fault in the boot is unknown, but swapping out the camera with a different camera fixed the issue. To expand, the console behaves as though it’s a failed self-check. Subjectively speaking, the screens seem to behave differently than the typical screen flashing you see; the screens were turned on for a little longer. It’s as if the console attempts to boot, freezes, and crashes.

Console turns on, then off (Unknown what the behavior is beyond that).

(0) (Confirmed) Unplugging the Right Bumper ribbon cable fixed it? I have never heard of that.
Possible damage top screen ribbon connector? I really don’t know without inspecting the console.

White screen after the health and safety screen.

(6, 6) (Confirmed) Corroded Trace coming from the Wi-Fi Card Connector.
(3) (4) (5) (Theoretical) Reseat Wi-Fi daughter board.
(1) (Theoretical) Try a hard reset: Press and hold down the power button for 10 seconds to turn off the console.
(1) (Theoretical) Try powering on the console without Gamecards or SD cards in the console.
(1) (Theoretical) Check for loose ribbon cables.
(8) No solution found.
(Personal Story) A loose Wi-Fi card caused this issue
(1) (Information) “Sometimes, faulty or incompatible game cartridges or SD cards can cause the DSi to display a white screen. Remove any game cartridges or SD cards from the console and see if the issue is resolved”. - Jelly Bean man
(7) (Information) “Press and hold L+R+START button to power on DSi calibration touch, briefly press POWER button restart DSi, and you will be able to pass health and safety animation.” - K66
(8) (Information) “You could always try using a flashcart and ntrboot to see if it'll boot into a homebrew tool. Then from there, there's a bunch of stuff you can do to try to fix it (namely installing unlaunch)” - u/MysticAxolotl7
(8) (Information) “Maybe it's hacked? Check if it has a SD card, and press A and B while turning on the DSi.” u/InvestigatorBusy9517

Console boots to a white screen and freezes.

(2) (Confirmed) Faulty Screen (In the original poster’s case, the top screen)
(2) (Confirmed) Loose ribbon cable connection (the connector(s) were not closed)
(0) (Theoretical) Console is known to be Homebrewed. The console is bricked. It may require a Hardmod to restore the NAND.
(2) (Theoretical) Loose or faulty Wi-Fi card.
(3) No Solution Found

Console boots to a white screen that fades to blacks. The console is frozen.

(0) No Solution Found.

Console turns on to a white screen when certain games are inserted.

(0) (Theoretical) Gamecard slot, the specific game pins are dirty or the gamecard slot is damaged.
I’m not aware of a gamecard preventing boot, but, if the console is homebrewed, and is trying to boot straight into the gamecard, I'd assume that causes an issue. Access the Unlaunch Menu by Holding A+B when powering on the console.

Console boots to White Screens, but the console is otherwise functional (can hear sounds of navigating menus and can even boot and “play games).

(0) (Theoretical) Original Poster reported the potentiometers were broken off or missing. Didn’t know that could happen. Replacing the shoulder button ribbon should fix it.
(1) (2) No Known Solution
Screens have gone bad and need to be replaced.

Powers on, but both screens are black and there is no sound. The console is frozen and doesn’t turn off automatically.

(4) (Confirmed) Removing and reseating the battery.
(5) (Confirmed) This was a known Homebrewed and Unlaunched console, but reseating the Wi-Fi board and using a smaller SD card worked. I expect more the former than the latter.
(11) (Confirmed) Powering off the console by holding the power button and turning it back on. The issue was with OP’s GBC emulator? Or, at least, it was a homebrewed console.
(1) (Theoretical) Loose or faulty Wi-Fi Board. Reseat Wi-Fi Board and see what happens.
(2) (3) (Theoretical) Homebrewed Console where a mistake was made during the process. May need Hard Mod to restore NAND.
(6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (12) No Solution Found
(4) (Information) Removing the battery clears the RAM.
Faulty Wi-Fi card slot (needs reflow) and/or faulty resistor R134. Proven by pressing down on the WIFI board and trying to boot.
Try booting the console without an SD card or Gamecard inserted.

Console boots to a black screen, then when the power button is pressed again, turns to a white screen.

(0) (Confirmed?) The problem fixed itself for OP? Unsure what OP did, but it is possible pulling or draining the battery may have done it. I’ve heard that is a way to reset the RAM.
(1) (Theoretical) Hitting the back of the console causes it to turn on fine? However, that works. Might be a loose connection, like the Wi-Fi board.
(2) (Theoretical) Since the console was homebrewed, it may be a corrupted NAND flash.
(0) No Known Solution

Console boots to Black Screens, but the console is otherwise functional (can hear sounds of navigating menus.

(0) (Confirmed) OP replaced the bottom screen, and reseating the display cables fixed this issue.

Console doesn’t boot. Blue light turns on, then off and some activity on the top screen (not flashing).

(0) No Solution Found
Faulty or Dead battery.

Console only boots with Gamecard inserted.

(0) (Theoretical) Console has been bricked twice and may have a corrupted instance of Unlaunch? I do not know. Holding A + B while booting takes you to Unlaunch. Might be a very niche case.

Bottom Screen flashes, but console powers on with the console fully open, and works normally.

(0) No Solution

Power/Charging Related Errors – Errors relating to Charging the Console or Power related issues. Console Boots but Doesn’t Charge Correctly/Powers Off Randomly.

Consoles Doesn’t Charge or Retain Power Properly.

No charge light.

No charge light.

Console Status: Unknown.

(0) (Confirmed) Reflowing the charge port worked.
(2) (Confirmed) Charge port is damaged and need replacing.
(5) (Theoretical) Blown F1 fuse on the motherboard.
(1) (3) (4) No Solution Found
(4) (Information) “Check to see if the charge port housing has continuity with the ground plane (it should have continuity with the cartridge slot is a very easy way to check). A less common reason for no charge light at all is lack of ground on the housing itself. I haven't figured out exactly what causes them to occasionally lose grounding, but it's an easy fix of just running a small jumper wire from the housing to a nearby ground point” - u/ToadsInTanks
Faulty charge cable

Console Status: Powers on and Plays.

(2) (Confirmed) A new charging cable
(0) (Theoretical) Faulty charging IC (EM1 or U11).
(1) (Theoretical) Bad or broken charge port
(4) (Theoretical) Blown F1 Fuse downstream of the charge port.
(3) (5) No known solution
(Personal Story) I had a console that didn’t have a charge light, the software indicator showed it was charging, and a USB voltmeter said it was drawing power (so, it was, in fact, charging). What kept the orange light from coming on was a trace severed on the ribbon cable from the power daughter board to the motherboard.
Broken solder joints on the charger, F1 Fuse, and/or EM1.
Faulty charger

Orange Charge Light Flashes.

Console Status (Does the console turn on?): Unknown

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Bad battery or blown F1 Fuse on the Power Daughter Board
(2) (3) No Solution Found

Console Status: Powers on and Plays

(4) (Confirmed) Corrosion in via(s) that broke continuity from the Battery + to leg 9 & 10 of component U11.
(0) (1) (2) (3) (Theoretical) Bad or defecting battery
(5) No Solution Found

Charge light turns on for a second, then turns off (not flashing).

Does the console pull power? – Unknown

(0) (Confirmed) Console displayed this issue on 110V. When put on 220V, it charged normally. The OP’s console in post (0), displayed an unusual behavior where the charge light blinked once after the charger was pulled.
(2) (Confirmed) Reflowing components downstream of the charge port, specifically component Q1, fixed the issue.
(Personal Story) This happened on a console I had, and even with known drained batteries, this behavior was observed. I failed to note whether this console turned on or not.

Does the console pull power? - No

(1) (Confirmed) Non-continuous connection between Battery + to leg 9 & 10 of Component U11. Most likely due to a corroded via or some other break in that circuit line. Specifically check the via that is to the left of the “TP128” silkscreen text (not the test point itself) as that has been a problematic one for me.
(2) (Confirmed) Replacing component U11 fixed the issue.
(Personal Story) A charge light like that was changed to a blinking light (when the battery was out) on another console that didn’t charge when the corrosion via breaking continuity between the batter + and Pin 9 & 10 of U11 was addressed and repaired. This leads me to believe there could be an issue with that trace. One weird symptom is when the console is on with the battery and charger in, and the battery is pulled, the console stays on. Kind of a neat feature, and not sure how damaging it is, but neat nonetheless.

Does the console pull power? – Yes

(Personal Story) Had a console with this behavior (when the battery was out) but charged normally. This leads me to believe that it is an older revision of an IC that controls the indicator light, but no solid evidence confirms that. It was also in a console where I swapped the U11 chip, so it in entirely possible it is either not mounted correctly, or is faulty. I would need to swap over a known good U11 chip in order to test that.
Battery is full.

No charge light. Confirmed no Power Draw. Software Charging Indicator was on. The console powers up.

No charge light. Confirmed no Power Draw. The console powers up.

(1) (Personal Story) I had a console that didn’t have a charge light, the software indicator showed it was charging, and a USB voltmeter said it wasn’t drawing power. To the extent of what I understand, some of the traces on the Power Daughter Board ribbon cable were severed (possibly mechanical stress or corrosion). Most importantly, the 4th pin to the left (looking at the ribbon cable contacts). This connects directly to component U11 and completes the circuit. U11 is a component that is a part of the charging circuit. The DSi Board Schematics were very handy.

The Software based indicator (the icon) for Charging is on despite not being on a charger. No Orange Light.

(2) (Confirmed) Component U11 was faulty. My first clue was the Positive and Negative pin for the battery connector were shorted, which was very strange. Looking on the schematic for the DSi, Pins 9 & 10 were shorting to GND on Pin 4 which it shouldn’t do. Replacing U11 fixed the charging issue. Just as a note, when I separated U11 from the console, 9 & 10 didn’t short to the ground pad at the bottom of the IC, so I don’t know what that means.
(0) (1) No Solution Found.

Console doesn’t charge properly. Charge port is visibly damaged.

(0) (Confirmed) A new charge port fixed the problem.
(1) (Confirmed) A new charge port did fix the physical issue wrong with the port, but the solder joints for component EM1 needed to be reflowed. The solder joints on EM1 can sometimes crack and cause charge issues unrelated to the port being physically damaged.
(2) (Theoretical) Replace the charge port.

Console dies very quickly even after charging for hours.

(1) (Theoretical) Needs new battery.

Console drains the battery and dies very quickly with known good batteries. Changer doesn’t work.

(0) No solution found.

Battery drains even when console is off.

(0) (Theoretical) Component U11 heats up and remains “hot” when the console is off. Possibly faulty.
(1) No Solution Found

Charge Light flickers erratically. Unknown if it charges.

(0) No Solution Found
Possible error in the power board. Reseating the ribbon cable for the board and cleaning the contacts may fix it.
Resolder battery contacts on Power Daughter Board
Bad Charger

Charge port looks fine but doesn’t charge unless the charge cable is pushed down (Cable is assumed fine).

(1) (Theoretical) Cracked solder joints on the charge port, F1, and/or EM1. Reflow all and add some more solder.
(0) (2) No Solution Found
Busted solder joints on F1 fuse, charge port, and/or component EM1. Reflow those components and add a touch more solder.
Charge port is faulty or the pins bent.

Console Randomly Turns Off.

Console Shuts off without warning.

(0) (3) (Theoretical) Battery is not making good contact. Reseat.
(3) (Theoretical Bent or twisted gamecard slot pins.
(1) (Theoretical) Could be a faulty power board or battery.
(2) (4) No Solution Found
(3) (Information) “Nintendo put circuitry in these (batteries) to detect improper current to help prevent 3rd party batteries from being used.”
Could be a faulty gamecard slot.
If it happens when playing a cartage game, it could be a dirty gamecard slot.

Console turns off when the lid is closed.

(4) (Confirmed) Cartridge slot was dirty. Using an old cart, or a cart you don’t really care about, soak the game pins in rubbing alcohol and insert it into the console a few times (preferably when it’s off). That should clean the pins of the gamecard slot.
(3) (Theoretical) Torn ribbon cable for the top screen.
(2) (Theoretical) OP mentions a freezing issue when tapping around the game cart slot, so I take that to mean the gamecards slot is dirty. This would only make sense if the game was being played when this happens, and the OP didn’t specify.
(0) (1) (5) (6) No Solution Found
If it happens when playing a cartage game, it could be a dirty gamecard slot.

Console shuts off when shaken.

Console shuts off when shaken

(0) (Theoretical) Torn display ribbon cable(s)
(0) (Theoretical) Loose battery and/or dirty battery contacts

Console shuts off when moved while playing game.

(0) (Theoretical) Dirty Gamecard slot pins.
(0) (Theoretical) Broken solder joins on the gamecard slot pins.

Console shuts off after 30-45 Minutes without warning.

(0) (Theoretical) Loose battery.

Console shuts off when Changing the Brightness.

(0) No Solution Found

Console shuts off when the back is tapped.

(0) (Confirmed) Cleaning the battery contacts.
(1) (Confirmed) Adding double sided tape to the battery to hold it fixed the issue
(2) (Confirmed) Using a piece of card stock paper between the battery and the battery door to keep the battery from moving unexpectedly.
(Personal Story) Could be a faulty/dirty gamecard slot and/or Pins. When tapping the back of one console I have, the gamecard would vanish from the main menu. While in the main menu, the console won’t turn off, but if a gamecard is being played, the console will think the gamecard was ejected. A similar effect can be observed when lightly pressing the gamecard and shifting it left and right in the gamecard slot. Might be the pins are pressed down overtime.
Loose/ Faulty battery
Dirty/bent battery contacts.

Console freezes when the back is tapped.

(0) (Theoretical) Dirty gamecard slot.

Console shuts off when the bottom screen is pressed or bumped.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Bad battery or bad battery contacts.
Could be a dirty gamecard slot if the problem only occurs when playing a game.

Console Powers off when D-Pad is pressed hard.

(0) Flipping the D-Pad Membrane solved the issue.
(1) No Solution Found
Could be a loose battery or the battery is making poor contact.

Console freezes when start button is pressed.

(0) (Theoretical) Dirty battery contacts.
(0) If it only occurs when playing a game cart, clean the gamecard slot.

Pressure around the A and X button caused the console to soft reset or completely reboot.

(0) (Theoretical) OP points to a capacitor that seemed to have been knocked out of place Infront of the ZIF connector. May be the cause.

Console shuts off while in standby mode.

(0) (Theoretical) Possibly an issue with the gamecard or card slot.
(0) (Information) “Bad connections? removing a slot-1 card fires an interrupt (as in disconnecting the actual pins, the mechanical card-inserted sensor that debuted on the DSi is unrelated) and in standby mode, it indeed just turns it off” -Ryccardo

Console freezes on a white screen after about 30 seconds from boot.

(0) No solution found.
(Personal Story) I have seen this on a few MoBos I have. Though I have not probed around to find a solution, it seems to only impact DSi consoles. I have not seen this issue on DSi XL Consoles.

US system plugged into a 240 Australian plug and was fried?

(0) (Theoretical) The original poster didn’t explain enough to be helpful. Mostly likely, they are overacting, or one of the fuses popped in response.

Console goes to sleep immediately after start up.

(0) (Theoretical) Possible faulty component U10 (Which I think is responsible for the console’s sleep. Located in the center of the D-pad). OP’s console is Unlaunched, but there is no indication that it has any role in this problem. Not impossible, but I don’t have a reason to suspect it.

Software Errors - Errors that prevent the Console from Functioning Normally. This includes “An Error Has Occurred”, Error Codes, or other Error messages.

”An Error has Occurred”

An error has occurred” when booting up.

(1) (Confirmed) Replacing the Wi-Fi card
(2) (Theoretical) Might be that, during a homebrew attempt, a file was put into the wrong spot on the SD card. Try booting into Unlaunch by holding A+B when booting.
(3) (Theoretical) May need a hard mod to restore the NAND.
(4) No Solution Found.
(0) (Information) “It's possible the NAND chip has slightly got corrupt overtime. Your only solution may be to just buy another DSi.” -RocketRobz
(4) “My dsi is the same colour and sometimes does that it means the games cartridge is dirty and wont work properly turning off the ds will help but I'm not sure how bad it gets mine seems fine most of the time” -u/Monsoonl22

An error appears when opening any program.

(3) (Confirmed) Reseating and cleaning the Wi-Fi board
(0) (Confirmed) Putting a piece of paper under the Wi-Fi Board (trial and error to get the thickness).
(2) (Confirmed) " I fixed this by bending it (the Wi-Fi card) the opposite way inside the connector to even them (the pins) out, and holding it for a bit...” - SkyeStrawberry
(1) (Theoretical) Loose or faulty WIFI card. Try reseating it.
(6) (7) (4) (5) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) No Solution Found
(0) (Information)
“Recently, I have repaired a DSi that thrown an error just after start any program. The problem was in bios/Wi-Fi module, not the module itself but the connection, I think the console access inside before launching an app, and if there's any problem in communication, it abort operation and shows the error. The solution was looking a good position for this piece, putting some paper underneath to tilt it slightly (trial and error method). Now it works flawlessly!” - xonn
Faulty Wi-Fi card plug. May need reflowing. Can confirm it by putting pressure on the Wi-Fi board while trying to open a program.

Gives “An error has occurred” message when a gamecard is launched.

(2) (Confirmed?) Soft resetting several times seemed to help someone in the comments.
(2) (3) (Theoretical) Wi-Fi card is beginning to fail or is it loose.
(0) (4) (5) No Solution Found
(1) (Information) “To test your Nintendo DS game card, try playing the game in a Nintendo DS Lite or a Nintendo DS (original style).
- If the game still does not work, it's more likely the game card is defective and will need to be replaced.
- If the game works in either a Nintendo DS or Nintendo DS Lite, our experience shows that the game is likely a counterfeit product.
Could be flash card related.
Possibly dirty or bent gamecard pins.
it might be that the card slot is borked and two pins are shorting against each other. Might be worth testing on a junker console that needs a new card slot or pins.

“An error has occurred” when initializing the camera within the camera app.

(0) No Known Solution
Bad camera ribbon.
Bad selfie camera unit.

Gives “An error has occurred” message when a gamecard is launched a second time.

(0) No known Solution.
I have to think the second launch is purely coincidental. The first thing I'd try is cleaning the gamecard slot.
If it is a flashcart, it could be a error related to the flashcart.

An error appears when opening the camera.

(1) (Theocratical) Faulty camera unit.
(0) No Known Solution.
- User replaced camera unit, and there was no change. Could be a faulty unit, but that is unlikely. Not enough information to make a guess.

Showing impossible date (00/00) and time (00:00) and error code when launching software.

(0) No Solution Found
(Personal Story) This error coincided with “An Error has Occurred” when opening an application. This suggests a Bios/Wi-Fi Card issue. No amount of Wi-Fi cards thrown at the console fixed it. Could be a broken solder joint on the connector.
May be a Wi-Fi board error.

An Error has occurred after Health and Safety screen on a known hacked console. OP admits doing something “really dumb”.

An Error has occurred after Health and Safety screen on a known hacked console. OP admits doing something “really dumb”.]

(0) (Theoretical) Console may be bricked and requires a Hard Mod to restore NAND.

Error Codes

Error 0000FE00

(4) (Confirmed) Reflowing EMMC restored console functionality. A repair I did. Board was noted to have a fair bit of surface corrosion, so it is possible one or more of the solder points were corroded.
(0) (Theoretical) Bricked NAND. Restore NAND via Hardmod. The console shut off during an update.
(1) (3) (5) (6) (9) (10) No Known Solution.
(0) (Information) “0000FE00 means there was an error when communicating with the NAND.. Maybe yours died during the update process or the firmware corrupted. So without a NAND backup and a hardmod I doubt you can do anything.” -Aquadraws
(2) (Information) “Error communicating with NAND chip (it's missing, CLK is shorted, etc.), or the most significant bit of the byte at 0x2ff of NVRAM has been cleared. (If you have a modchip installed, it could also mean the modchip exploit failed.)”
(7) (Information) “This happens when the NAND has been corrupted, or if it has broken (less likely). If you don't have a NAND backup, there is currently nothing to be done.”
(8) (Information/Guide) “Know Applications To Cause The Error: -Supercard DSTWO Official SNES Emulator, DS2Key, and UA Paint” - Yo123

Error 0000FEFE

(0) (Confirmed) Replacing the Wi-Fi Board. “After reading through the iFixIt answer to fix the issue, the topic focused on the BIOS being the problem. That’s when I started thinking about how the DS line won’t boot without a BIOS/Wi-Fi board installed. Luckily, I had a 2nd DSi unit that was too far gone and was being used for parts. I took that unit, disassembled it and took out the Wi-Fi board. I replaced the Wi-Fi board, closed it up temporarily and started it up. Fortunately, the DSi booted right up to the main menu and was fixed.” - Fillhart Tech
(4) (Theoretical) “It happen with my DSi before... I recommend to takeout the battery and leave it rest for a week ... I don't know why it causes that but somehow solved my issue” - tozevleal
(0) (Theoretical) “This solution was very convoluted and would require letting a battery fully discharge. The process would take a long time and I just didn’t have the time to wait around for a battery to die. So I started thinking about the problem.” - Fillhart Tech
(2) (Theoretical) Try reseating the Wi-Fi board or, if possible, try a different Wi-Fi board.
(1) (6) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) No Solution Found
(Personal Story) In one case, I had a DSi XL with corrosion around the NAND that turned the FEFE error into an FE00 error. Could be unrelated. I need to try reflow the NAND chip and try a WIFI card on that console.
(Personal Story) Working on a DSi which had a rather loose Wi-Fi socket. At one point, it spat out this error code. The only thing wrong with it was the Wi-Fi card wasn’t making good connection.
(2) (Information) “0000FEFE is ‘Boot sector integrity error (Sector 0x200 not valid), or error in NVRAM contents.’ Either the NAND died/corrupted (and delivers nonsense data) or the better case: NVRAM contents.” - KleinesSinchen
(5) Information) “Integrity error in the stage2 header (or error in NVRAM header: first 40 bytes must have a specific value).” -DSiBrew
(7) (Information) “This happens when the NAND has been corrupted, or if it has broken (less likely). If you don't have a NAND backup, there is currently nothing to be done.”
(9) (Information) “On the ds phat and ds lite the nand is on the WiFi module, but on the DSi it’s a separate chip that’s soldered to the motherboard. However there is a nvram chip(eeprom on newer revisions) on the DSi WiFi module that stores some boot data and user settings, and if this chip is dead it can cause the bootrom error as seen in OPs post. I have seen a lot of people get confused between the ds lite and DSi when it comes to the location of the system nand so I just wanted to clear that up.
Sources: https://dsibrew.org/wiki/NVRAM https://dsibrew.org/w/index.php?title=WiFi_Module&mobileaction=toggle_view_desktop" - u/jader242
Guide:
- IFixIt DSi Wi-Fi Board Replacement

Error 0000FEFD

(3) (Theoretical) “Remove the battery, press the (Power) button a few times with battery and wait for some minutes before reinserting the battery.” - KleinesSinchen
(1) No Solution Found

Error 034218 When Updating.

(0) No Solution Found

Other Error Codes

Check the Nintendo Customer Support page for the Nintendo DSi Family for any numbered error code not listed.
I didn’t go through all of them, but most other Error Codes that I saw were related to wireless/network functionality.

Other Error Messages

Error Message: “The System Memory Has Been Corrupted/Damaged” when opening Web Browser

(1) (Theoretical) Factory Reset the console.
(2) (3) (4) No Solution Found.
(0) (Information) Due to a corrupted application. Deleting and reinstalling it should fix it.
(2) (Information) “Try formatting the systems memory should fix the problem... Good Luck.” - oldturkey03

“The Object Inserted in the SD Card Slot Isn’t Valid” Error message upon attempting to load content off of a SD card.

“The Object Inserted in the SD Card Slot Isn’t Valid” Error message upon attempting to load content off of a SD card.
Source: (0)

Could be a faulty SD Card Adapter if using a Micro SD card.
Could be a faulty SD Card Slot.

“The device inserted in the SD Card Slot can’t be used.”
“The device inserted in the SD Card Slot can’t be used.”

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Using a full-sized SD card formatted as fat32. May be a bad SD card, or SD card slot.
(2) (5) (Theoretical) “Make sure it’s formatted to fat32 with 32kb clusters.” - u/jader242 (2)
(3) (4) No Solution Found
(2) (Information) “Only SD cards between 4gb and 32gb will come as fat32, anything higher than 32gb will usually be exfat out of the box and will need to be reformatted to be recognized. Anything lower than 4gb will usually be fat16 as default and will still be able to be read, but can have some compatibility issues or longer loading times.” - u/jader242

When loading a game, the message “The save data could not be accessed” appears.

(0) (Information) (This is about Pokémon Black 2) “The save chips on the DS era Pokémon games just go bad over time. The only way to fix this game is to replace the save chip which requires a lot of soldering skill.” - u/V-FEXrt2
(0) (Information) (This is about Pokémon Black 2)
“How to fix:

0. Read this thread:

- Buy a game that you can harvest the save chip from (list here. Be warned, it’s Download link for a .txt. Not malicious from what I can tell)
- Open the of the donor and PKMN B2.
- Swap the save chip by soldering (hard).
- Verify everything works.
- Use a tiny amount of acetone applied with a toothpick to reseal the shell.” -u/V-FEXrt2
(1) Information) (This is about Pokémon Black 2)

Start the ds without the game. Insert the game When the game icon shows up click on it and Hold down x, y, b, a, L and R right away as it launches.
- If that doesn’t recover game and you still need the save data on it…
Insert game in a modded 3ds with Checkpoint installed and if save data appears make a backup then restore it.
- If nothing appears…
Using Isopropyl Alcohol (preferably 91% concentration. 70% is probably the minimum) try to clean the gold contacts on the cartridge. This can be done without opening the cartridge however if you need to remove the shell do so at your own risk. It will likely need to be either glued back together or replaced.
- To make a backup as a final failsafe you can try to use PKSM, but I didn’t have any luck with that. The remaining methods are for if you are willing to delete the existing save data:
Put your ds cartridge in your DS. Then while turning on your DS, hold the L Button, Right on the D-Pad, and Start at the same time. Finally, choose the game icon on the Main Menu. The game’s save data will be erased and you should be able to start a new game.
Repair/Replace the memory chip. Buy a copy of any working DS game with compatible memory like America’s Test Kitchen (cheapest copy with necessary part) but other mainline Pokémon copies of any language can also work if you don’t mind losing them. Boot it up and make sure to delete the save data on the game in its settings. Open both cartridges and locate the smaller memory chip. Next you can take them to a local electronics repair shop and ask that they check for any damaged or lifting pins in the Pokémon cart or if they can swap the memory with the loan chip on the one you purchased. If you are confident enough you can use a hot air soldering kit to remove and replace the memory but once again that is at your own risk. It may also be a hairline fracture on a gold contact pin or other internal component so inspect thoroughly using magnification.

Hail Mary attempt. Slam the cartridge on the table and pray that it fixes the problem. (Worked for like 2 people).” - u/javajuse

“Unable to connect to the access point” when connecting to Wi-Fi

(0) (Theoretical) Try connecting via your phone's hotspot, especially if you can select the 2.5 Ghz band.

Screen Related Errors. Console is Fully Functional, but There are Errors in the Displays.

Color Related

Colors are fine at first, but after about 20 minutes, the color invert on the top screen.

(0) (1) (2) No Solution Found
(0) Weirdly specific. Could be a failing top screen, but I have no clue.

Colors are fine at first, but the screen fades to white.

Colors are fine at first, but after about 10 minutes, the screen fades to white.

(0) (Confirmed?) Potentiometers
(1) No Solution Found
(1) (Information) “If it powers on OK and transition into that, the LCD is probably ok. Best case bad capacitors, just replace them. Worst case, bad regulator which need skills to diagnose.” - u/DesignerKey442

Top screen colors are inverted.

(0) (Confirmed) Adjusting the potentiometers for the top screen.
(1) (4) (Theoretical) Adjusting the potentiometers for the top screen.
(2) (3) (5) No Solution Found.

Top screen colors are inverted when screen is at a certain angle.

(0) (Theoretical) The console has TN panel screens, and trying to view the screen at an angle results in inverted colors.

Bottom Screen Colors are inverted.

Color are inverted on the bottom screen.

(4) (Confirmed) Adjusting potentiometers for the bottom screen)
(0) (Confirmed) Replacing the bottom screen.
(1) (2) (3) (Theoretical) Adjusting the potentiometers for the bottom screen

Bottom Screen goes from white to gray/light blue from left to right.

(0) (Theoretical) Needs new screen. Technically, it is a perfectly function screen, but it is up to the owner whether or not it’s a problem.

Both screens are “High Contrast”.

(0) (Theoretical) Adjusting potentiometers
(0) (Theoretical) Bad shoulder button ribbon cable

Screens are Yellowed.

(1) (Theoretical) Replace screens
(1) (3) (Theoretical) If the yellowing is light, leave console on a white screen for about 11 days.
(0) (2) (Information) Experiments run on consoles with yellowed screen show that, when left on a white screen, the yellowing of the LCD will reverse. If the yellowing is mild, consoles can be restored back to near perfect white screens. If the yellowing is heavy, it is likely that the screens are beyond saving.
(4) (Information) Yellowing seems to stem from the Light Guide/Dispenser Plate inside of the LCD assembly. Replacing that with a non-yellowed Plate “fixes” the yellowing.
(5) (Information) "In the land of laptops and desktops, yellowing is usually because of the glue that holds the backlight reacting to UV, the backlight itself, or a diffuser/polarizer layer. A lot of older plastics do it naturally not just in presence of UV.” - u/sagebrushrepair

Top screen colors washed out.

Top screen colors washed out

(0) (Theoretical) May need a new screen since the potentiometers didn’t work

Top Screen has a Green Hue.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) If reseating the top screen ribbon cable and cleaning the contacts doesn’t work, the screen needs to be replaced. Could also be the Screen connector on the motherboard that need reflowing.
(2) (3) No Solution Found
(Personal Story) Now, I have experienced this with my test bench console that I use to test screens, and it was caused by the ribbon being creased too many times. That screen ribbon was toast.

Top and Bottom Screens have different Color Temperatures and/or Brightness.

(0) (1) (2) (Theoretical) One screen was replaced, and they do not “match”.
(3) (4) (5) No Solution Found
(Personal Story) I’ve put together quite a few DSi and DSi XL consoles, and be it manufacturing, age, or damage, screens, more often than not, differ slightly from one console to the next. Sometimes, there screens will lean bluer (cool) or redder (warm) compared to other consoles. When you try to purchase a new screen, or combine the screens from two consoles, this issue can become apparent and it’s damn near impossible to avoid. Depending on the severity, or if you’re sensitive to the slight color difference, if you don’t plan on staring at a white screen, you won’t notice it.
(5) (Information) “This is quite common on DSi XL. The LCDs may have been somewhat mismatched even when new, but many DSi XL upper LCDs unfortunately also suffer from a lot of aging issues, including changes in color temperature and brightness. Some of them turn a pinkish color. Some go kind of bluish. Some get dim or washed out. Some get dark corners and eventually die. Some start to flicker. Most of these problems seem to specifically affect the upper LCD much more often than the lower, though I have seen lower LCDs with some of them as well. DSi XL is my favorite console, but there seems to have been some major design flaws with their upper LCDs” - u/ToadsInTanks

Powers on and boots, but bottom screen is black.

(1) (Theoretical) Since there was corrosion on the motherboard, and the screen is confirmed working, then there is an issue with the backlight. I’d look at the connector very closely to see if there is damage or if the solder joints need to be reflowed.

Black Background in Pokemon Diamond/Pearl/Platinum in Poke Center is blue.

Black Background in Pokemon Diamond/Pearl/Platinum in Poke Center is blue

(0) No Solution Found.

Fading, Flickering, or Vignetting.

Vignetting on one or both screens.

Vignetting on one or both screens

(2) (Theoretical) Try adjusting potentiometers.
(4) (5) (Theoretical) Replace Screen.
(0) (1) (3) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) No Solution Found.
(Personal Story) I have nothing to add to the claim below, but when trying to de-yellow the screens, one of the screens, that was vignetting, was not improved through use. It implies that the screen may need replacing.
(2) (Information) “Your screens are ‘burned’. You need to change the screen or change the polarizing film.” - u/coddy_trent
(5) (Information) “If you have microsoldering skills, you could replace the burnt out backlight.” - u/DesignerKey442

Corners of DSi Screen are White.

(1) No solution found.
(0) (Information) “It kinda looks like LCD polarizer layer is lifting from the LCD itself. Have you seen LCD's without polarizers? They're completely white, and the white light fading inwards makes it look like, again, it's separated from the rest of the LCD.” - JuanMena

Both Screen Faded.

Both Screen Faded.
Sources: (0) (1)

Adjusting potentiometers fixed it.

Flickering both screens.

(2) (Confirmed) Adjusting the screen potentiometers resolved the issue. Not sure about long term viability.
(3) No Solution Found

Sources: (0) (1)

Fixed by one user who adjusted the potentiometers in the battery compartment.
Maybe, just maybe, a cold or cracked solder joint on the potentiometer itself leads to poor connection.

Top screen is “Flashing”

(0) (Theoretical) May be potentiometer related
(0) (Theoretical) The screen is going bad
(0) (Information) “It is just a normal frequency flashes from the old LCD screen, I have seen many units have it. It will usually be gone after a minute or less.” -IceTheAwaken (u/icebryanchan) - Reddit
(1) (2) No Solution Found
Maybe, just maybe, a cold or cracked solder joint on the potentiometer itself leads to poor connection.

Dark screens rapidly pulse bright lights. Scanlines.

(0) (Theoretical) Adjusting potentiometers
(0) (Theoretical) Replace Shoulder Button ribbon cable assembly.

Corners of the Top Screen are dark.

Corners of the Top Screen are dark.
Sources: (0)

Not solved by manipulating the potentiometers.
May need a new screen

Top Screen fades with “Flickering Lines”

(2) (2) (Confirmed) Adjusting potentiometers.
(0) (Theoretical) Potentiometer related issue.
(1) No Solution Found

Guide-

Nintendo DSi Screen Lines Fix. Blurry Screen. Potentiometer Adjustment.

Top screen a tiny bit dimmer

(4) No Solution Found.
(4) (Information) “Your DSi is just like that, these screens were never perfectly matched at the factory and age has only deviated them further.” - мастер

Sources: (0) (1)

Maybe purely subjective. Could need new screens or adjusting the potentiometers.
Top screen is darker than the bottom screen.
Sources: (0) (1) (2) (3)
Adjusting Potentiometers.

Top screen only works at certain angles (angles in which the console are opened).
Top screen only works at certain angles (angles in which the console are opened).
Sources: (0)

Replace the top screen.

White “cloud” in the center of the screen?
White “cloud” in the center of the screen?
Sources: (0)

Try adjusting the potentiometer for the top screen.

Bottom Screen Faded

Bottom Screen Faded
Sources: (0)

Adjust potentiometers
(0) (DSi) Potentiometer for the bottom screen broke, and was fixed by replacing the shoulder ribbon cable that had the potentiometers on it.
(0) Leaving the console off for a few days may fix it.
(Personal story) I had an instance where I was testing screens, and my bottom screen kept coming up as faulty (would glitch out and become a white screen); even the ones I cleared. Turns out it was the junk top screen I was using. After stressing it enough, it created an error that caused my bottom screens to appear faulty. Replacing the top screen fixed it.

Bottom Screen fades to blank after some time.

Bottom Screen fades to blank after some time.
Sources: (0) (1) (2)

Unknown.
May be potentiometer related.
On DSi consoles, it may be a faulty shoulder button ribbon cable.

Artifacting, Dead Pixels, and Light Bleeding.

Top screen Stuck Pixel(s).

Top screen Stuck Pixel.

(0) (Confirmed) The LCD Display was fine, but the screen lens had a scratch creating the appearance of a dead pixel.
(1) (Confirmed) OP was able to fix a stuck pixel cluster on a 3DS by putting the console in the freezer. (I would not try this)
- Procedure:
  “You can try putting your 3DS (do not include the battery) in airtight container in the freezer for a certain amount of time. In my case, I left it in there for 24 hours, and guess what? The dead pixel is gone!! Before turning 3DS on, I let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes and wiped it with a tissue. So far, the 3DS has turned on like normal—everything works fine, including the sound, screen, buttons, card slots, charging port, and Wi-Fi.” - u/Maguma190
(2) (Theoretical) Try running a pixel fixer, but the screen may just need replacing as I don’t think it’ll get better.
(3) No solution Found

Top Screen artifacting.

Top Screen artifacting.
Sources: (0 0)

Maybe caused by R4 card with a dodgy kernel according to the OP.
It was fixed when the console was left off overnight. Pulling the battery may also fix it.

Top Screen has colored vertical lines.

(0) (Theoretical) Top screen is damaged, and needs to be replaced.

Top Screen has horizontal white lines.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Needs new screen.
(2) No Solution Found. This is a bit on an unusual case as it only appears in games. Not in the main menu or Twilight Menu.

Top screen has dark specks.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Dust below top screen lens.
(0) (Theoretical) Dust or damage within the LCD display. Since there is a White Spot in OP’s console, it’s possible that display need replacing.
(2) (Theoretical) Possibly a scratch on the top screen lens. Hard to tell.
(3) No Solution Found

Top screen is dark with some white horizontal bars.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Top screen needs to be replaced.

Grey gradient discoloring on Top Screen.

(0) (Confirmed) Replacing the 4 Filter Arrays (Labeled FA1-4) for the top screen. These are located above the Wi-Fi Card plug.

Bottom screen has a white vertical line.

(0) (Theoretical) Needs a new screen.

Parallel Lines on the Bottom Screen.

(1) No Solution Found

Sources: (0)

Could be potentiometer related.
Probably requires a new screen.

Backlight bleed on the bottom screen.

(1) (2) No Solution Found
(2) (Information) “The "glitters" are just backlight 'light bleed' from the bottom screen. The screen border thing is supposed to prevent this but some little paint had chipped away I guess and thus letting some light pass through.” - u/scv_good_to_go

Sources: (0)

Some of the bleed was lessened by “twisting” the shell. It could mean there needs to be more pressure behind the bottom screen. Maybe a pad or something.

One or both screens have scanlines.

One or Both screens have scanlines.

(1) (Confirmed) Adjusting potentiometers.
(0) (Theoretical) Though OP didn’t confirm it, I am extremely confident adjusting the bottom screen potentiometer will fix the issue.
(2) No Solution Found
(0) (Information) “The “varistors” or “variable resistors” are named VR1 and VR2. The VR1 controls the pulse width or frequency (not sure which) of the signal going to the top screen and VR2 corresponds to the bottom screen. Adjusting them has the effect of adjusting the flicker, appearance of lines, or in some cases, the saturation of color. As far as I know all of the DS handhelds from the original DS to the newest 3DS have these two varistors.” - u/graysky311

Both Screens are “Glitchy” and unusable.

Both Screens are “Glitchy” and unusable.
Sources: (0)

(0) Reseating the ribbon cables and adjusting the potentiometers didn’t do anything. I believe the should button ribbon is faulty, but the images on the screen are well beyond anything I've seen before in relation to potentiometer faults.

One or both screens have white cloud over the picture.

(0) (Theoretical) May require screen replacement. Not a whole lot of information to work with, but it is unclear the extent of the damage until the screen lens/digitizer are removed. I have heard of fungus growing in the screens, and though it could be a niche case, I don’t have enough information to declare that.

Image Retention/”Burn-in” on Settings, Soft Reset, other applications. Both Screens.

Image Retention/”Burn-in” on Settings, Soft Reset, other applications. Both Screens.
Sources: (0) (1) (2)

Replace Screens.
(Personal Story) I made a post about image retention and burn in on GBAtemp with 2 different consoles that I have that display this issue. To sum it up, the image retention appears to be a screen issue as changing the motherboards didn’t impact the issue. The image retention on soft resetting (where you can see a faint image), is normal, but may serve as a marker for the life expectancy of the screen (the more prominent the retained image, the worse the screen is). More testing is needed.

Non-Boot Essential System Errors. The Console Boots to the Main Menu and Functions, Though has some Software or Hardware issues.

Software Errors. Errors that Appear in Software.

SD Card was no longer detected by the DS. SD Card was fine when plugged into the computer.

SD Card was no longer detected by the DS. SD Card was fine when plugged into the computer

(2) (Confirmed) “I managed to solve the SD problem. The reader wasn't broken, but my Micro SDs were. Only one of the three I have actually worked when I tested it.” - u/the_Jokami (Original Poster)

Sources: (0) (1)

The user was using a MicroSD card in an adapter to make it a full-sized SD Card. The adapter went bad/developed a fault which resulted in the console not being able to read it.

Doesn’t read any SD (micro or full sized) card; even ones that work on another DSi.

Doesn’t read any SD (micro or full sized) card; even ones that work on another DSi

(0) (Information) Swapping the Card reader with a known working reader doesn’t work.
(1) No known solution.
Faulty shoulder button ribbon cable assembly.
Issue with Shoulder button plug.

Volume buttons do not change the volume. The volume works, as indicated by the console, but the speakers remain at Level 2 Volume.

Volume buttons do not change the volume. The volume works, as indicated by the console, but the speakers remain at Level 2 Volume.
Sources: (0) (1) (2)

No Known solution.
May be a bad volume ribbon cables

Parental Locks

(1) (2) (Confirmed) Use video tutorials and provided links to reset or remove the parental locks.
(0) (3) (Theoretical) Use Key generators
SALT | mkey generator (salthax.org)
Set your console to the current date, go to the parental controls setting, say you forgot the passcode until you hit a confirmation number. Enter the confirmation number on the website, and it’ll give you your Master Key.
(0) (Information) Official Reset from Nintendo which costs money. Not seen as a viable option since free options are available, and it may be unlikely Nintendo will always offer this service (if they even offer it now).

No Data Management.

No Data Management.
Sources: (0) (1)

Connect to the DSi Eshop (which probably isn’t available).
Homebrew
Update the console?

No Flipnote Studio.

No Flipnote Studio
Sources: (0)

Homebrew
Updating the console, maybe?

Flipnote studio was on the console but is gone.
Flipnote studio was on the console, but is gone.
Sources: (0)

Format system memory

Camera Application opens to a black screen.

Camera Application opens to a black screen.
Sources: (0)

Maybe a faulty camera unit.

DSiWare “Locks Up” when playing.

DSiWare Locks Up

(0) This is from Nintendo Support, and I haven’t heard of this problem being reported.

Wi-Fi Light is not on.

(Confirmed) Wireless Communications was turned off in the settings.

Cannot detect game cartridge after a card slot replacement.

Cannot detect game cartridge after a card slot replacement
Sources: (0)

In one post, the OP accidently knocked the EM13 component off the board. It may be the problem.

Console doesn’t recognize my different region game.

Check to see if the game is DSi enhanced. DSi enhanced games are region locked, and some games will not load.
(0) (Information) The DSi can play any region “NTR” coded games, but only same region “TWL” games. You can find out which game is which by looking at the bottom of the label on the front of the cart. Or if you hack your DSi it will remove the region lock and you can play anything.

Date and time doesn’t update.

Date and time doesn’t update.
Sources: (0)

No known solution

Won’t connect to the internet.

Won’t connect to the internet

(0) (Confirmed) When connecting to phone hotspot, it didn’t work, but after restarting their phone, OP was able to connect.
(1) (Theoretical) OP describes the console as “bending”, so the mobo may have trace or component damage beyond what is normal.

Connecting to the internet causes the whole network to crash.

Connecting to the internet causes the whole network to crash.
Source: (0)

I assume this is less of a DSi problem and more of a Faulty/Old Router or some other issue.

Trying to restore photos from a console that was factory reset.

(0) (Confirmed) “So there's no specific program to do it all but here's what I did: after you have the NAND dump, you need to decrypt the files and make them readable, there are different tools that do this but I used ninfs. After that, I used OSFMount to mount the TWL files (I found 3 on mine, one was unmountable) and on one of the files (I think it's twl photo or something like that) you'll find all ur existing photos from the nand. To get the deleted photos, you need to run a photo recovery software, I used Rphoto, did a deepscan and found a strangers lost photo album lol. Here's a link to a ninfs guide: (There's also a download link included there as well as one for OSFMount)” - u/maoioi

Physical Errors. Errors that Manifest in Hardware that Subsequently Impact Software.

Unresponsive Shoulder Buttons.

Unresponsive Shoulder Buttons

(3) (1) (Confirmed) Submerging the button (separated from the console) in rubbing alcohol and click it a bunch to clean it. That fixed the problem for OP. In my personal experience, this can help, but it isn’t a magic fix in all cases.
(0) (Confirmed) “Mashing” and “Blowing” the shoulder buttons without taking the console apart fixed the issue.
(2) (4) (5) (6) (Theoretical) Requires cleaning by submerging the button (separated from the console) in rubbing alcohol and clicking it a bunch.
(2) (Theoretical) Buttons or ribbon assembly needs to be replaced.
(7) (8) (9) (10) Not Solution Found

Stuck right shoulder button.

Stuck right shoulder button
Sources: (0)

Required cleaning.

Unresponsive Shoulder Buttons even with new shoulder ribbon.

(0) (Theoretical) Though it’s less likely to be a shoulder button problem, submerging the button (separated from the console) in rubbing alcohol and click it a bunch to clean it.
(0) (Theoretical) May be worth cleaning the connector for the shoulder button ribbon on the motherboard.

D-Pad buttons are unresponsive.

(0) (Theoretical) Buttons may need cleaning.
(0) (Theoretical) Power Daughter Board may be faulty.

D-pad feels “Crummy”/ ”Tight” and hard to do diagonal inputs.

D-pad feels “Crummy” and hard to do diagonal inputs.

(3) No Solution Found.

Sources: (0) (1) (2)

Flipping the D-pad membrane over in the shell.

Power button doesn’t soft reset the console.

Power button doesn’t soft reset the console.
Sources: (0)

Unknown. Issue fixed itself.

Power Button is unresponsive most of the time. Takes multiple presses.

Power Button is unresponsive most of the time. Takes multiple presses.
Sources: (0)

Power button may require cleaning

Console powers on but doesn’t power off.
Console powers on but doesn’t power off.
Sources: (0)

Something about the wiring? I can only assume they mean the main power lines to the MOBO from the power daughter board.

Volume Buttons are changing brightness instead of Volume.

Volume Buttons are changing brightness instead of Volume.
Sources:

Check the Select Button for Faults. Holding Select and using the volume controls the brightness.

Brightness shortcut (SELECT + Volume) Doesn’t Work.

Brightness shortcut (SELECT + Volume) doesn’t work.

(0) No Solution Found
OP in Source (0) Homebrewed their console, but the information they offer doesn’t suggest that Homebrew is the issue. The select and volume buttons work otherwise.

Volume Buttons aren’t responding.

Volume Buttons aren’t responding

(0) (Theoretical) OP has attempted to clean the buttons, so the only other option may be replacement.
(1) No Solution Found

Volume Buttons and L Shoulder register as the same input.

(0) (Confirmed) Cleaning the shoulder button assembly plug that goes into the motherboard fixed the issue.

Mic doesn’t work. No response in the Sounds app.

(3) (Confirmed) Mic port had bent pins. See information below.
(4) (Theoretical) Mic Port has bent pins. See information below.
(2) (Theoretical) Bad mic
(5) No Solution Found
(1) (Information) Focused troubleshooting guide
(1) (Information) “...you can just solder headphone jack points 6 and 7 on the motherboard... This fix completely worked for me” -ohnoltrane11383 (u/ohnoltrane11383) - Reddit
(0) (Information) The two metal pins in the external mic slot, next to the 3.5mm jack, are stuck up. Bending the pins back down should fix it. The logic behind this is the two pins, while resting, short on a copper plate below them, relatively speaking. If the pins are flattened, and don’t make contact with the plate, and the console thinks an external mic was inserted.
Torn Cable.
Possible motherboard error. Good mics have been tested on these boards, and the mic doesn’t pick up any audio. The connector on the motherboard seems fine. Mic + line is supposed to have continuity between R92 and C31. HOW the positive line get to those points, I do not know. The Mic + line goes into a via and vanishes.

Speakers “Buzzing”.

Speakers “Buzzing”
Sources: (0) (1)

Unless there is damage, some amount of buzzing is normal

Sound Through Only One Speaker or One Side of Headphones.

Sound Through Only One Speaker or One Side of Headphones
Sources: (0)

(0) This is from Nintendo support, and I have never heard of this problem being reported.

Right Speaker is quiet compared to the Left Speaker.
Right Speaker is quiet compared to the Left Speaker.
Source: (0)

Might be the solder joints are failing. No solution was found.

No Volume or Sound Is Faint Through Speakers.

No Volume or Sound Is Faint Through Speakers
Sources: (0)

(0) This is from Nintendo support, and I have never heard of this problem being reported.

Console will not read games.

(3) (Theoretical) Gamecard slot pins are dirty
(0) (Theoretical) The pins in the Gamecard slot are bent. You can, very carefully, bend the pins back.
(1) (Theoretical) Pins could be dirty, or these are bad solder joints on the Mother Board.
(2) No solution found

Console will not read a game but reads other games fine.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Faulty U2 chip on the Game card itself.
I’m not going to pretend I know a lot about thing, but I hear about the save chip going faulty on mainly Pokémon games, but it stands to reason all of those EEPROM chips are prone to failure.

The system doesn’t read games normally but does when you hold the card down.

Dirty game slot pins

Retail game only works when you move it around. Contacts look awful.

(0) (Confirmed) Cleaning the contacts made it better. Visible damage to the contacts looks too great to repair as the gold plating was scraped off.
(0) (Information) “I've had the best luck using the sort of Q-Tip with paper stick. Cut one diagonally so the cut stick forms a point. Use the swab end to swab some rubbing alcohol on the contacts. Then use the cardboard point to scrub up and down in each slot repeatedly until it looks clean. The point will get mushy before you're done. Just re-cut it for a fresh point, or use a new Q-Tip if you run out of length.” -chupitulpa (u/chupitulpa) - Reddit

Game is stuck in Gamecard slot.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Get a thin object to stick into the game card slot to lift the metal flap within the gamecard slot. That metal flap may need to be bend slightly.

Gamecard doesn’t lock into the card slot.

Gamecard doesn’t lock into the card slot.
Sources: (0)

A piece of the gamecard slot came loose and needs to be reset.

Gamecard won’t go into the gamecard slot.

(0) (Theoretical) There is a metal flap in the gamecard slot to keep debris away from the pins. It may need to be bent up a little with an object that can fit into the gamecard slot.

SD Card doesn’t lock into the card slot.

(0) (Theoretical) Replace SD card slot ribbon. Mechanism is busted

Game Locks Up or Freezes

(1) (2) (Theoretical) The save chips on Pokemon games have been known to fail.

Sources: (0)

(0) This is from Nintendo Support, and I have never heard of this issue reported.

Camera lens looks “Crushed” and pictures only appear in a grey gradient.

(0) (Theoretical) Possible damage due to being left in sunlight. The Lens unit or Camera unit needs to be replaced.

Camera feed is glitchy.

(0) (Theoretical) Faulty camera unit.
(1) No Solution Found

Touch Screen doesn’t work after replacement.
Touch Screen doesn’t work after replacement.

(1) No Solution Found

Sources: (0)

The connector may have been broken or the ribbon cable was damaged during installation.

Touchscreen isn’t working properly.

(0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (Theoretical) If touch screen calibration doesn’t work, the touch screen digitizer needs to be replaced.

Guide:

(Video) Nintendo DSi Touch Screen Replacement | Fix scratched screen | Nintendo Restoration

Bottom screen doesn’t have a backlight. Bottom screen is known good. Console works fine otherwise.

(0) (Theoretical) OP mentions corrosion around the backlight connector. Connector may need to be reflowed.

Power daughter board main connector ripped off.

(4) (5) (Confirmed) Resolder the connector back on.
(0) (1) (2) (3) (6) (Theoretical) Resolder the connector back on
(NOT VERIFIED IF THIS PART IS A 1:1 REPLACEMENT) Replace with new connector. Part name: BM02B-ACHSS-GAN-ETF From Digikey.
Not recommended, but sniping and solder the wires directly to the motherboard works. Just makes it harder to take the console apart.
(4) (Guide) A repair I did where the contacts were still good.
(5) (Guide) A repair I did where the + and – pads were ripped off.

One of the battery contacts pins are chewed up.

(0) (Theoretical Contacts may be bend back into place, and possibly resoldered, but a new Power Daughter Board may be needed dependent on the damage.

Charge port ripped off taking the + and/or – Pads with it.

Charge port ripped off taking the + and – Pads with it.

(0) (1) Solder the + To the F1 Fuse or component EM1 (follow the + trace to see where to solder to) and the – to any ground pad like the game card shield.

Cosmetic and Other Errors

Shell creaking near D-Pad.

Shell creaking near d-pad.

(1) No known solution
(0) (Information) “I have this issue when I re-shell small DSis. It had a creaking sound around the same spot you mention here. The fix for me was replacing the Philips screw with a tri-wing screw from the Nintendo DS Lite. For some reason this eliminated the squeaking noise... I hope this bit of information helps you in some way.” - (u/SkyeStrawberry) - Reddit
Unconfirmed hypothesis: D-pad membrane is keyed and was installed on the wrong side. May be millimeter differences in shell pieces, but that is unconfirmed.

D-Pad is worn down.

D-Pad is worn down

(0) (Theoretical) Replacing the Dpad.

R Button feels “Loose”.

(0) (Theoretical) Replacing the spring in the shoulder button.

Shell Separation near face buttons.

Shell Separation near face buttons.
Sources:

Not related to bottom shell, shoulder button, SD card Slot, or Stylus holder. Seems to be some resistance between the motherboard and upper lower shell. May be related to the button membrane being too thick, suggesting an extremely minor variation in DSi XL consoles, or the membrane being misaligned. Could also be related to Wi-Fi Antenna and Mic cable routing on the shell.
Possibly a warped shell due to damage.

Shell portion above hinge is broken.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Replace shell piece or reshell the console.
(1) (Information) You have 3 options:
If you still have the loose part try carefully put it back with kola loka or any other glue
Use a material that is called PUTTY and try to replicate the broken plastic
Replace the necessary shell but I must tell you that is a pain in the back doing that but the result will be nicer. - u/Alsainz

Aftermarket Stylus doesn’t fit right.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) The wrong stylus was ordered.

Corner of the top glossy shell piece is shattered.

(0) (Theoretical) Replace shell piece with either a piece from a third-party kit or a junker console.

Replacing Top Screen Rubber Stoppers.

Replacing Top Screen Rubber Stoppers.
Source: (0) (1)

Purchasing Original 3DS stoppers and cutting off 1mm would work in theory.

Top Screen screw covers on White console were yellowed.

(0) (Theoretical) If new ones are available, replacing them is the best option. Home remedies like paint (whiteout), hydrogen peroxide, or bleach may be helpful, but not proven.

Weird marks on the top screen. Almost looks like dust underneath the top screen lens.

(2) No Solution Found

Sources: (0) (1)

Some weird fault in the top screen lens. Doesn’t appear to be impacting the LCD display. It doesn’t clean off, so replacing the lens is the next best thing.
Could be due to the lens making physical contact with the LCD display.
(0) Mold or some organism growing between the lens/digitizer on the LCD displays.

Scratch on Top Screen Lens.

Scratch on Top Screen Lens

(0) (Confirmed) Replacing lens fixed the issue.
(1) No solution Found
(1) (Information) “ Are you able to feel the scratch when running your fingernail over it? If the answer is yes than you cannot. If the answer is no that you can try using poly watch to try to buff out the scratch or just replace the screen lens entirely.” - u/No-Nature1508
The top screen lens on the DSi XL can be removed with a suction cup. It is advised to wear rubber gloves (or similar), find a dust free room, and have some scotch tape handy. When replacing the lens, you can use the tape to remove any dust the falls on the LCD and the glove are to prevent smudges from hand oils. Treat the process as though you are replacing a screen protector. Light heat to loosen the adhesive of the lens may be required.

Top Screen looks like it’s being pressed/pressure is being applied to it.

(0) (Theoretical) Since it wasn’t the Lens, it appears to be a fault in the LCD.

Top Screen has a crack in it.

(0) Screen is busted.

Bottom screen/Touch Screen is damaged/flaking away.

Bottom screen is damaged

(0) (1) (2) (4) (Theoretical) Replace digitizer.
(3) (Theoretical) Remove Screen Protector.
(5) (Information) Poly watch does not work on deeper scratches. Anecdotyl evidence suggests that it may work on light scratches.
(1) (Information) “Clear plastic on the digitizer surface or (if lucky) the screen protector is breaking down. Needs new digitizer.” - u/reefermonsterNZ

Replacement Digitizer has a “matte” feeling to it.

(0) (Personal Story) All of the after-market digitizers I've gotten for the DSi XL have been this "matte" finish. It adds too much friction between the stylus and the screen, and I hate it. An easy fix is a screen protector. It adds that "glossy" layer that feels a whole hell of a lot better to glide a stylus across.

Screen Protector caused touch screen to become unresponsive.

Screen Protector caused touch screen to become unresponsive

(0) (Confirmed) Removing the screen protector fixed the issue.
I have never heard of this, and without knowing the manufacturer of the screen protector, we don’t know what is wrong.

Blue Power light is flickering when the console is on. No other reported issues.

Blue Power light is flickering when the console is on. No other reported issues.
Sources: (0)

(0) “Check your LED ribbon cable, the last time this happened to me it was my wireless icon not lighting up unless pressure was applied. Taking the LED cable out and reinserting it fixed the issue for me.”

Blue Power light and Yellow Wi-Fi Light don’t illuminate.

Blue Power light and Yellow Wi-Fi Light don’t illuminate

(0) No Solution Found
Verify continuity through the connectors and ribbon cable. If the power board is assessed to be good, look at the schematic to see which component generates those lights. I haven’t seen the LED lights going bad, but it isn’t impossible.

Brand new battery isn’t lasting as long as Original.
Brand new battery isn’t lasting as long as Original.

(0) (Theoretical) “New” batteries are made cheaper, are lighter, and are a lesser quality than original.

A better wedge for battery.

A better wedge for battery

(0) (Theoretical) Cardboard, paper, or thin plastic may work.

Battery is swelling/swollen.

Battery is swelling. Console works fine otherwise.

(0) (Confirmed) Replacing the battery.
(1) (Theoretical) Replace the battery.
(Information) More information on battery swelling on IFixIt.

Plastic piece in Charge port looks “Lifted Upwards”

(0) (Theoretical) That’s normal. As long as it charges, and that piece is solid, there is nothing to worry about.

Motherboard or other Screws are rusted or stripped.

Motherboard Screws are rusted or stripped

(0) (1) (2) (Theoretical) Since the head of the screw looks intact, apply a lot of pressure with a Phillips #00 and try to unscrew. If the head of the screw disintegrates or strips, use other methods to try and remove the screw. Use a Dremel or drill as a last resort as that will damage the shell (unless you don’t care about the shell). One commentor recommended penetrating oil which would also be a good idea, but I don’t know how it interacts with plastics.

Corrosion on gamecard slot.

(0) (Theoretical) Since it isn’t a bad case, nor was there any noticeable rust or other damage, a gentle cleaning with a tooth brush and some high % rubbing alcohol is fine.

Console’s Shell is dirty.

DSi Shell is dirty.

(0) (Theoretical) A Magic eraser should do it with a little bit of water. Be careful with the amount of water.
(1) (Information) “70% alcohol should be more than enough for basic surface cleaning. In fact, I'd even avoid wiping the screen with it. Use a damp (not dripping wet) cloth for that instead, and be careful not to apply too much pressure.” - u/GeoTheBoy

DSi XL Glossy Shell piece is scratched.

DSi XL Glossy Shell piece is scratched

(1) (Information) “I used car polisher really carefully with fiber cloth it wont solve everything but looks much better now” - u/Renhga
(1) (Information) “Plastic polish (Novus 1-2-3) is probably the best thing to try.” - u/dwalker109

Console’s Shell has sticker residue.

Console Shell has sticker residue.

(0) (Information) “Just for certification or requirement purposes. They probably changed a part or component and needed to send the console for recertification. You can see that GS Mark Certification is different between both. The console in the first picture is 'newer' as it has '-1' suffix after C/UTL-EUR model number.” - u/scv_good_to_go

Console’s Shell has paint/nail polish.

Console Shell has paint/nail polis

(0) (Information) “Try a combination of these things. First, try IPA or none-acetone based nail polished remover on the least conspicuous spot. You could also try IPA with a magic eraser. If it's too hard to remove, thin out some acetone based nail polish remover with water (25 NPR/75 water) and use it with a magic eraser. Be gentle at first and only progressively use harder cleaning liquids and more force. The magic eraser will very finely sand the plastic. It will only remove too much if you are way too aggressive with it completely dry. I've personally had very good experience with using a magic eraser and a liquid on cleaning DSs. Oh course, don't go over the lens of the camera with the magic eraser.” - u/JemmyTV

PAL console shell letterings differ between two shells.

(0) No Solution Found

Photos are not displaying on the main menu.

(0) (Theoretical) Either the photos aren’t “starred” or the photos are not on the internal memory.

Reproduction Game Cartridge freezes mid game.

(0,0) (Information) “from what I can find from searching online it’s pretty common for reproduction ds carts to freeze in the middle of gameplay, and I’m not sure if there’s a fix. If you don’t want to buy a legit cart I would say getting a flashcart would be your best bet, you’ll be able to play whatever games you want and they don’t have the issues repros do. Here’s a guide. I recommend the Ace3ds+/R4iLS clones due to the good game compatibility and low price.” - u/jader242

Homebrew and Flashcart Errors Unique to Homebrewed/Hacked Console, Software, and Flashcarts.

Any questions that can’t be answered should be asked here -> DS(i) NOOB PARADISE forum

Boot Related Errors

Console boots to black screen. NTR Boot still works.

(0) No Solution Found.

Console boots to a black screen when SD card is inserted. Boots fine without it.

Console turns on, then off (Unknown what the behavior is beyond that).

(0) (Theoretical) May be a custom menu error.

Console’s default menu boots to a white screen. Twilight Menu works fine.

(0) No Solution Found. Issue fixed itself.

Software

Hacked DSi cannot load normal Games.

Hacked DSi cannot load normal Games.
Sources: (0) (1)

Insert game card and power on holding “A”. There should be an entry with the game.

Game freezes when playing a ROM.
Game freezes when playing a ROM

(0) (1) (Theoretical) SD card was formatted incorrectly. Refer to the SD Card Setup Guide for more information and programs to use.

Pokémon Black ROM crashes to an "Error: Data Abort” screen.

(0) (Theoretical) Bad ROM

Mario and Luigi Inside Story ROM crashes when reloading a save.

(0) (Theoretical) Bad ROM

Console boots into the System Settings.

DSi loads boots into the System Settings.

(0) (1) (Theoretical) Console has Unlaunch, and the “No Button” was set to the DSi Settings.
(1) (Information) “If you hold A+B on as you power the system on you should be brought to the Unlaunch menu, from there select OPTIONS > NO BUTTON > Launcher > SAVE & EXIT” - u/AMegaEvolvedRayquaza

Downloaded Game Freezes.

Downloaded Game Freezes.
Sources: (0)

Most likely a bad ROM. It was not mentioned if it was an official or non-official download.

During Homebrew process, console freezes when entering photo gallery.

(0) (Confirmed) Needed a new SD card.
(1) No solution Found

After NAND is finished backing up, the console freezes with a white top screen and black bottom screen.

(0) No Known Solution

During Homebrew process, console is stuck on Green Screen.

(0) (Confirmed) “If the top screen turns green, you do not have TWiLight Menu++'s BOOT.NDS on the root of your SD card. Follow the prep work again.” -dsi.cfw.guide
(1) No Solution Found.

Console read retail games just fine, but cannot read Flashcarts (they don’t show up).

Console read retail games just fine, can cannot read Flashcarts (they don’t show up)

(Personal Story) (Confirmed) Bending the gamecard pins.
(Personal Story) Replaced some gamecard pins on a console, and though it could read retail games just fine, it couldn’t see Flash Cards. The explanation for the solution I can only speculate, but bending the gamecard pins got one of the flashcarts to read.

Console’s Menu doesn’t have any music or interactive sounds.

Console’s Menu doesn’t have any music or interactive sounds

(0) (Confirmed) “Just running the unlaunch install again will NOT solve it. You have to set unlaunch patches to OFF through TWM++ settings before doing the reinstall trick, otherwise it will not work. The right steps are: Launch Twilight Menu++ and go settings. In the unlaunch tab, set the patch options to OFF. Run the unlaunch.dsi again choose the install again. Redo your unlaunch booting routine and save it. This is how you get rid of the patched no-intro/soundless launcher.dsi.” - u/Quack_Dude

Twilight Menu Resets when Booting Game.

(0) No Solution Found

Internet Browser is missing.

Internet Browser is missing

(0) (Theoretical) Return to the vanilla DSi menu either by resetting the console, or through Unlaunch.

Error Codes/Messages

“Error: Data Abort!” When playing Mario and Luigi Bowser Inside Story.

(0) (Theoretical) “Is this at the beginning of bowser's inside story? This happened to me as well, you just have to keep trying and it will eventually stop crashing. This is a known issue as the official nds bootstrap compatibility chart says ‘Relaunch the game, if it crashes.’” - u/jader242

“Service for this software has been discontinued” when opening Flipnote.

“Service for this software has been discontinued” when opening Flipnote

(0) No Solution Found.

“The data-management file is corrupted”.

“The data-management file is corrupted”

(0) (Confirmed) On a console using the Memory Pit exploit. “Just click Okay, all the files still on SD card, you just have to replace the exploit again.” - u/Pepi8

"Empty mbr entry” when trying to use a new SD card.

(0) (Theoretical) SD card needed to be properly formatted with the SD Card Setup Guide.

Flash Cards

Used Flash Card doesn’t have firmware.

(0) (Information) “Go here, not to the link on the cart: https://www.flashcarts.net/ds-quick-start-guide.” - u/SkinnyFiend

R4 Card stopped launching games, but boots into the flashcart menu.

R4 Card stopped launching games.

(0) No Solution found (Other than using Twilight Menu)

R4 Card only reads a couple of games, and not much else.

(0) (Information) “Use YSmenu to circumvent time bomb.” - u/JemmyTV

R4 Card doesn’t launch.

(0) (Information) “What firmware is the DSi pretty sure the AK2i only works on 1.4.4 and lower (maybe modding the console will allow it to boot, not sure)” - u/wolfegothmog

"An error has occurred” When loading an R4 Card.

”An Error Has Occurred” when loading an R4 Card.

(1) (Theoretical) Console’s firmware update blocks the flashcart.
(0) (Information) “This happens because you updated the DSi firmware at some point, and the firmware blocks certain ds flashcarts. Your only options are either get a different flashcart that isn’t on the blocklist, or mod your DSi and install unlaunch which will bypass the blocklist. For a new flashcart that isn’t blocked check out the pinned wiki on r/flashcarts, to mod your DSi and use the same flashcart follow this guide: https://dsi.cfw.guide” - u/jader242

“Can’t Open _dsmenu.dat”.

(0) “The picture shows clearly a flashcard that is missing its booting kernel files. You need to proper boot a flashcard kernel in order to load roms from it. Go to r/flashcarts and shows a picture of the flashcard with that error screen. They will give accurate informations about what kernel/firmware this flashcard will need.” u/Quack_Dude

Start Button doesn’t work on an Ace3DS+ R4 Card.

Start Button doesn’t work on an R4 Card.

(0) (Theoretical) Maybe the firmware on the card is “buggy”. Reinstalling may help, but not guaranteed.

Other

Roms don’t have their box art on the Twilight Menu.
Roms don’t have their box art on the Twilight Menu

(0) Use the TwilightBoxart program from GitHub

"Version Number not detected” on Action Replay DSi.

"Version Number not detected” on Action Replay DSi

Running ROM Hacks.

Running ROM Hacks

(0) Possibly not compatible, but given the sheer volume of ROM hacks, it may or may not be compatible. There will never be a definitive answer, so any question should be directed to the specific ROM hack creators, their resources, or DS(i) NOOB PARADISE - Ask questions here | GBAtemp.net - The Independent Video Game Community.

END OF TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Console Information.

Components Needed to Boot.

Components Needed to Boot
The absolute minimum components needed to reach the DSi Main Menu

Top Screen Ribbon Cable
Wi-Fi Card (Antenna not needed).
Power Board (Ribbon and power connector)
Bottom Screen Backlight (Thin Cable above the thicker LCD Ribbon)

Bare Minimum Life Check.

Bare Minimum Life Check
The absolute minimum components needed to check for a blue power light. Helpful in diagnosing component failure.

Mother Board
Power Daughter Board
Battery

Hardware similarities between DSi and DSi XL.

Screws.
- Both consoles use the same screws by measurement. Colors of screws may vary, but the position and types of screws are the same. Consult the posts below for variations noted between consoles.
  - DSi XL
  - DSi
Buttons.
- Compatible buttons:
  - ABYX.
  - D-Pad.
- Incompatible Buttons:
  - Start and Select Buttons*
  - Shoulder Buttons – DSi’s Shoulder buttons are shorter.
  - Power Button - Completely different design.
    - *The Start and Select buttons may work. The buttons for the DSi XL are very slightly longer and could be shaved down to fit. Unknown if that actually will work.
- Compatible Membranes:
  - ABYX
  - D-Pad
  - Start/Select
- Incompatible Membranes:
  - Power Button
Different region console parts.
- Aside from the text at the bottom of the console’s shell and the regional firmware flashed on the NAND, all other components are the same.

Key Differences Between DSi and DSi XL.

Key Differences Between DSi and DSi XL

Screen potentiometers:
- Located on the Motherboard for the DSi XL. Unless tampered with to the point of destruction, I am not aware of them going bad, but it isn’t impossible.
- For the DSi, they are located on the Ribbon Cable for the Shoulder Buttons and SD Card. These are suggested to be a point of failure and cause issues for the screens, shoulder buttons, and, potentially, the SD Card.

Additional Hardware information.

(0) (Information) The Wi-Fi Daughter Board has the console’s bios.
(Personal Story) It takes about 30 second of the battery being removed from the console for the Time and Date to reset.
(1) (Information) “The system expects the lipo battery voltage to be between roughly 3.4 and 4.2 volts. USB is 5 volts, so you should not connect USB directly to the battery pins. You can power it in this way if you have a power supply that will output 4.2 volts, like an adjustable lab bench PSU.” - u/SkinnyFiend

Average Battery Life.

DSi XL

4 Hours, 18 Minutes, and 5 Seconds.

Averaged across 26 Consoles.
Software used: Snailface's Battery Life Timer at max brightness and full volume through earbuds

Code:

Console Information   Battery Life
Shell Serial Version  Motherboard Serial  Hours Min
WJF103051749 1.4.1U  26206012 U0156AW -A29  4 20
WJF107807199 1.4.5J  02606012 U01A46Z -A05  4 20
WW455411345 1.4U  07206012 U01807R -A10  4 5
WEF127593966 1.4.1E  22X06012 U0194LP -A45  3 5
WW407292565 1.4.5U  10116012 U01N1WD -A03  4 45
WW401659036 1.4.5U  04506012 U01B00D -A01  4 35
WJF101013299 1.4J  17506012 U01A3E4 -A17  4 25
WW411886354 1.4.5U 06Y06012 U01B083 -A05  4 20
WJF108547117 1.4.1J  18306012 H01B2RA -A27  4 25
WW402667245 1.4.4U  03506012 U01207R -A56 4 15
WW452921588 1.4.3U  10806012 U01A86F -A30  3 55
WW450511132 1.4.5U  26506012 U01B7GH -A30  4 40
WW443162686 1.4.5U  19Z06012 M01406T -A39  4 20
WW459345431 1.4.5U  14X16012 U01026A  4 25
WW444272414 1.4.1U  03506012 U01B300 -A01  4 15
WW417649229 1.4.5U  16Z16012 U01D6H2  4 20
WEF127266068 1.4.5E  13X06012 U0154TV -A26  4 20
WW409499917 1.4.1U  25206012 U0146RZ -A22  5 0
WW410913808 1.4U  09206012 U0141E7 -A15  4 10
WJF108479869 1.4J  06706012 U01A0WP -A15  4 40
WW422206806 1.4.5U  18216012 U01E0R7 -A04  4 25
WW416951354 1.4.5U  28506012 U0142SC -A30  4 20
WW442114808 1.4.5U  21X06012 U0154R9 -A41  4 40
WW417325420 1.4.1U  21906012 P01B2J4 -A68  3 45
WW432271450 1.4.5U  15X06012 U01B6H3 -A31  3 45
WW415619637 1.4.5U  15926012 U01E933  4 15

DSi

Data not collected

Replacement Parts and Information

Disclaimer: I have not vetted most of these vendors or products. I will specifically mention if I do.

Motherboard Parts (Components, Connectors, Etc.)

Charge Port.

YuXi 10pcs Power Jack Socket Charger Charging Dock Port Connector For DSi for NDSi XL LL - AliExpress 44

Capacitor C132.

(0) (Information) “...its value is 10nF (10000pF). Size is 0402 (1005 Metric)” - u/scv_good_to_go

Component DA5.

Component DA5.
Sources: (0)

UMP1NTR from Digikey

Component EM1.

(0) (Information) Charge Regulator/Common Mode Inductor Choke Coil.
10pcs Nintendo DS Lite EM10 charger filter for NDSL choke coil replacement – kasynparts
Gameboy Advance GBA EM1 EM2 Chip Common Mode Inductor Choke Coil (egamephone.com)
EM10 charger filter for DS Lite choke coil | ZedLabz

Digitizer/Backlight Connector.

Digitizer/Backlight Connector

- 10pcs For NDSL Touch Screen Ribbon Port Socket For 3DS XL Repair 4 Pin Connector P17 P12 P13 P10

F1 Fuse.

Game Boy & DS F1 F2 fuse replacement 1.25A - 2 pack | ZedLabz
C2Q 1 Bel Fuse Inc. | Circuit Protection | DigiKey
MFU0603FF01000P500 Vishay | Circuit Protection | DigiKey
I’ve had fine luck with AliExpress fuses as well. Don’t know what the fuse is rated at, so buy at your own discretion.
- 100PCS Replacement Motherboard Fuse for GBA SP / 2DS / New 3DS XL / GBA / NDSi / NDSL Console F1 F2 Fuse Repair - AliExpress 44
(0) (Information) “It's a 0603 (1608 Metric) sized fuse with 1A rating.” - u/scv_good_to_go
(1) (Information)

1A][/b]
-Voltage Rating VDC:32V
-Fuse Current:1A
-Breaking Capacity:50A @ 32V DC
-Blow Characteristic:Fast Acting
-Fuse Case Style:0603
-SVHC:No SVHC (20-Jun-2011)
-Approval Bodies:UL, CSA
-Breaking Capacity Current DC:35A
-Colour Code:Brown
-External Length / Height:1.6mm
-External Width:0.8mm
-Fuse Breaking Capacity Voltage DC:24V
-Fuse Size Held:1.6mm x 0.81mm x 0.48mm
-Fuse Type Blowing Characteristic:Fast Acting
-Overall Height:0.48mm
-Overall Length:1.6mm
-Package / Case:0603
-Resistance @ 10% Rated Current Typ:0.15ohm
-SMD Fuse Case Style:0603
-Voltage Drop @ Rated Current:0.18V” - Cartmanuk

Game Card Slot.

Microphone Connector.

(0) The connector is a “UFL Connector”. I do not have any more information than that.

Power connector from Power Board to Motherboard.

Power connector from Power Board to Motherboard.
Sources: (0)

BM02B-ACHSS-GAN-ETF From Digikey

Screens and Digitizers

Digitizer.

Digitizer

- (DSi XL) YuXi Replacement Touch Screen Panel Display Digitizer Glass For Nintendo DS Lite For NDSL NDSi New 3DS XL LL Console

Top Screen and/or Bottom Screen.

Top Screen and/or Bottom Screen

- (DSi) New Replacement For Ndsi For Dsi Xl Lcd Top Screen For Ndsi Xl - Buy For Ndsi Xl Lcd Screen,Top Screen For Ndsi,Lcd Screen For Ndsi Xl Product on Alibaba.com
  - (DSi) I purchased these screens for myself at $12.32 each (after tax and shipping on 5/22/24), and they were of very good quality. I was unable to distinguish them from OEM screen. Of the 30 I bought, 3 had defects rendering them unsellable (for me at least). And since I live in the USA, they took a little over a month to get to me. My Review on the product is there under the name “C***k” and if you wanted to see an unedited video of me testing them, I have it here.
  - (DSi XL) I did a follow-up order of DSi XL screens at ~$20.15 each (after tax, shipping, and a $10 off coupon on 6/24/24). Most screens were faulty, and the order was returned.
- (DSi XL Top) NEW REPLACEMENT for NDSI for DSI XL LCD TOP SCREEN for NDSI xl
- (DSi XL) Top Upper or Bottom Lower LCD Display Screen for Nintendo DS Lite For NDSL For ndsi For 3DS New 3DS XL LL For 2DS XL For switch
- (DSi XL) Free Shipping Original Top Bottom Upper Lower LCD Screen Display For Nintend DS Lite/NDS/NDSL/NDSi XL New 3DS LL XL

Screen Protectors

(0) (1) (2) (Information) Various Links to Reddit posts about Screen Protectors. A lot of the names and brands thrown around were either unavailable, or the shops were defunct.
Screen protector for DSi XL console - 2 pack | ZedLabz

Good Shells and other Cosmetic pieces.

Shells.

Shells

ZedLabz - DSi Housing

Stylus.

Stylus
The DSi and DSI XL Regular Stylus are not the same.

Other Pieces

Battery.

Battery

(0) (Information) Nintendo DSi: battery model no. TWL-003
(0) (Information) Nintendo DSi XL: battery model no. UTL-003
- Amazon.com: Cameron Sino Battery for Nintendo DS XL, DSi LL, DSi XL, UTL-001 PN:Nintendo C/UTL-A-BP, UTL-003 900mAh / 3.33Wh : Video Games

Charger Adapters.

Charger Adapters

(0) (Information)

Game Card U2 Chip (EEPROM).

Game Card U2 Chip (EEPROM)

(0) (Information) Main GBATemp Post. Not all Save Chip are the same. Study the differences.
(1) (Information) Reddit post of a faulty copy of Mario & Luigi Bowser's Inside Story
- M95640-DWDW4TP/K STMicroelectronics | Mouser

WANTED!

If you have information about good quality Shell Kits, Lenses, and Screens for DSi and DSi XL consoles, I would be grateful if you shared them.

Resources

Board Schematics

DS / DSL /DSI PCB scan, schematic, board, etc | GBAtemp.net - The Independent Video Game Community

Forums

GBAtemp’s Nintndo DS Fourm I stopped on this page.
Reddit’s r/consolerepair
Reddit’s r/nds
Reddit’s r/NintendoDS
Reddit’s r/dsi
Reddit’s r/DSiBrew
Reddit’s r/NDSHacks
Reddit’s r/Roms
TronicsFix - We believe repair matters (tronicsfixforum.com) (Not much information on DSi Consoles)
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Nintendo_DSi
https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Nintendo_DSi_XL

Webpages

Marketplaces

3D Prints

3D Printing DS cart shells? (DS Cart)
(DSi XL) 3D printed a new pen and battery cover (Pen) (Battery Cover)
(Print Files not shared) DSi XL analog stick prototype : r/NintendoDS
(Print Files not shared) I designed and printed a docking station for my DSi XL in its case! : r/NintendoDS
(Print Files not shared) Ds charging station. : r/NintendoDS

Game Cards

Battery

Mods

Open-Source Flash Cards

Projects

Noteworthy Forum/Webpages Posts

Homebrew Resources

Flashcart Resources

Other/Mildly Related Links

Tips and Tricks

To enter the Touch Screen Calibration without going through the menu: Power on the console holding L, R, Select and Start.

Reshelling Tips and Tricks

(DSi) Be mindful of the amount of extra slack you have on the Wi-Fi antenna. Too much slack will be pinched by the bottom shell and pull the Wi-Fi daughter board out of its socket. The antenna line has a “memory” of how it was sitting in the shell. Follow that memory.
Top Screen Ribbon Cables.
- Fully seating the ribbon cable into the Motherboard can be a bit of a pain. What I do is have the motherboard free floating (nothing attached to it yet) and use the shell and the push point for the ribbon cable. What I do is hold the motherboard vertical, slip the top screen ribbon cable into the connector, and push down putting pressure on the solid amber color of the ribbon cable to push it into the connector fully. I have a video on what that looks like.
- Fully seating the camera ribbon can be done easily by opening the console as if you were going to play it. That will give you extra slack to work with in order to get the camera ribbon in.

Last edited by KIlly728, Dec 16, 2025

Reactions: Eddypikachu, Girtana1, SylverReZ and 21 others

Click to expand...

DSi/DSi XL Problem and Solution Master List (In Progress)

Boot Related Errors – Errors preventing the Console from Reaching the Main Menu. ​

Console Doesn’t Turn on when Power Button is Pressed. No screen activity. Maybe some Lights turn on. ​

No Blue LED Light or Screen Flashing. Nothing happens. ​

Blue Light Comes on for a moment. ​

Charge Light Blinks when Inserted, but Turns off when Attempting to boot. ​

Charge Light Flashes. Console boots fine with old, swollen battery. ​

Screens flicker when the charger is plugged in. ​

Console Tries to Turn on. Screens do Something and/or Lights Turn On. ​

Top Screen flashes and the console turns off immediately. ​

Bottom screen flashes once and the console turns off immediately. ​

Both Screens Flash and the Console Turns Off Immediately. ​

Both Screens Flash, console turns off, but the blue light stays on. ​

Both Screens flash, console turns off. Console can turn on if brightness is low. ​

Console boots to the beginning of the splash screen and shuts off. Blue light stays on. ​

Console boots to the beginning of the splash screen and freezes. ​

On boot, screens turn on for a moment and the console turns off. ​

Console turns on, then off (Unknown what the behavior is beyond that). ​

White screen after the health and safety screen. ​

Console boots to a white screen and freezes. ​

Console boots to a white screen that fades to blacks. The console is frozen. ​

Console turns on to a white screen when certain games are inserted. ​

Console boots to White Screens, but the console is otherwise functional (can hear sounds of navigating menus and can even boot and “play games). ​

Powers on, but both screens are black and there is no sound. The console is frozen and doesn’t turn off automatically. ​

Console boots to a black screen, then when the power button is pressed again, turns to a white screen. ​

Console boots to Black Screens, but the console is otherwise functional (can hear sounds of navigating menus. ​

Console doesn’t boot. Blue light turns on, then off and some activity on the top screen (not flashing). ​

Console only boots with Gamecard inserted. ​

Bottom Screen flashes, but console powers on with the console fully open, and works normally. ​

Power/Charging Related Errors – Errors relating to Charging the Console or Power related issues. Console Boots but Doesn’t Charge Correctly/Powers Off Randomly. ​

Consoles Doesn’t Charge or Retain Power Properly. ​

No charge light. ​

Orange Charge Light Flashes. ​

Charge light turns on for a second, then turns off (not flashing). ​

No charge light. Confirmed no Power Draw. Software Charging Indicator was on. The console powers up. ​

The Software based indicator (the icon) for Charging is on despite not being on a charger. No Orange Light. ​

Console doesn’t charge properly. Charge port is visibly damaged. ​

Console dies very quickly even after charging for hours. ​

Console drains the battery and dies very quickly with known good batteries. Changer doesn’t work. ​

Battery drains even when console is off. ​

Charge Light flickers erratically. Unknown if it charges. ​

Charge port looks fine but doesn’t charge unless the charge cable is pushed down (Cable is assumed fine). ​

Console Randomly Turns Off. ​

Console Shuts off without warning. ​

Console turns off when the lid is closed. ​

Console shuts off when shaken. ​

Console shuts off when moved while playing game. ​

Console shuts off after 30-45 Minutes without warning. ​

Console shuts off when Changing the Brightness. ​

Console shuts off when the back is tapped. ​

Console freezes when the back is tapped. ​

Console shuts off when the bottom screen is pressed or bumped. ​

Console Powers off when D-Pad is pressed hard. ​

Console freezes when start button is pressed. ​

Pressure around the A and X button caused the console to soft reset or completely reboot. ​

Console shuts off while in standby mode. ​

Console freezes on a white screen after about 30 seconds from boot. ​

US system plugged into a 240 Australian plug and was fried? ​

Console goes to sleep immediately after start up. ​

Software Errors - Errors that prevent the Console from Functioning Normally. This includes “An Error Has Occurred”, Error Codes, or other Error messages. ​

”An Error has Occurred” ​

An error has occurred” when booting up. ​

An error appears when opening any program. ​

Gives “An error has occurred” message when a gamecard is launched. ​

“An error has occurred” when initializing the camera within the camera app. ​

Gives “An error has occurred” message when a gamecard is launched a second time. ​

An error appears when opening the camera. ​

Showing impossible date (00/00) and time (00:00) and error code when launching software. ​

An Error has occurred after Health and Safety screen on a known hacked console. OP admits doing something “really dumb”. ​

Error Codes ​

Error 0000FE00​

Error 0000FEFE ​

Error 0000FEFD​

Error 034218 When Updating. ​

Other Error Codes ​

Other Error Messages ​

Error Message: “The System Memory Has Been Corrupted/Damaged” when opening Web Browser ​

“The Object Inserted in the SD Card Slot Isn’t Valid” Error message upon attempting to load content off of a SD card. ​

When loading a game, the message “The save data could not be accessed” appears. ​

“Unable to connect to the access point” when connecting to Wi-Fi ​

Boot Related Errors – Errors preventing the Console from Reaching the Main Menu.

Console Doesn’t Turn on when Power Button is Pressed. No screen activity. Maybe some Lights turn on.

No Blue LED Light or Screen Flashing. Nothing happens.

Blue Light Comes on for a moment.

Charge Light Blinks when Inserted, but Turns off when Attempting to boot.

Charge Light Flashes. Console boots fine with old, swollen battery.

Screens flicker when the charger is plugged in.

Console Tries to Turn on. Screens do Something and/or Lights Turn On.

Top Screen flashes and the console turns off immediately.

Bottom screen flashes once and the console turns off immediately.

Both Screens Flash and the Console Turns Off Immediately.

Both Screens Flash, console turns off, but the blue light stays on.

Both Screens flash, console turns off. Console can turn on if brightness is low.

Console boots to the beginning of the splash screen and shuts off. Blue light stays on.

Console boots to the beginning of the splash screen and freezes.

On boot, screens turn on for a moment and the console turns off.

Console turns on, then off (Unknown what the behavior is beyond that).

White screen after the health and safety screen.

Console boots to a white screen and freezes.

Console boots to a white screen that fades to blacks. The console is frozen.

Console turns on to a white screen when certain games are inserted.

Console boots to White Screens, but the console is otherwise functional (can hear sounds of navigating menus and can even boot and “play games).

Powers on, but both screens are black and there is no sound. The console is frozen and doesn’t turn off automatically.

Console boots to a black screen, then when the power button is pressed again, turns to a white screen.

Console boots to Black Screens, but the console is otherwise functional (can hear sounds of navigating menus.

Console doesn’t boot. Blue light turns on, then off and some activity on the top screen (not flashing).

Console only boots with Gamecard inserted.

Bottom Screen flashes, but console powers on with the console fully open, and works normally.

Power/Charging Related Errors – Errors relating to Charging the Console or Power related issues. Console Boots but Doesn’t Charge Correctly/Powers Off Randomly.

Consoles Doesn’t Charge or Retain Power Properly.

No charge light.

Orange Charge Light Flashes.

Charge light turns on for a second, then turns off (not flashing).

No charge light. Confirmed no Power Draw. Software Charging Indicator was on. The console powers up.

The Software based indicator (the icon) for Charging is on despite not being on a charger. No Orange Light.

Console doesn’t charge properly. Charge port is visibly damaged.

Console dies very quickly even after charging for hours.

Console drains the battery and dies very quickly with known good batteries. Changer doesn’t work.

Battery drains even when console is off.

Charge Light flickers erratically. Unknown if it charges.

Charge port looks fine but doesn’t charge unless the charge cable is pushed down (Cable is assumed fine).

Console Randomly Turns Off.

Console Shuts off without warning.

Console turns off when the lid is closed.

Console shuts off when shaken.

Console shuts off when moved while playing game.

Console shuts off after 30-45 Minutes without warning.

Console shuts off when Changing the Brightness.

Console shuts off when the back is tapped.

Console freezes when the back is tapped.

Console shuts off when the bottom screen is pressed or bumped.

Console Powers off when D-Pad is pressed hard.

Console freezes when start button is pressed.

Pressure around the A and X button caused the console to soft reset or completely reboot.

Console shuts off while in standby mode.

Console freezes on a white screen after about 30 seconds from boot.

US system plugged into a 240 Australian plug and was fried?

Console goes to sleep immediately after start up.

Software Errors - Errors that prevent the Console from Functioning Normally. This includes “An Error Has Occurred”, Error Codes, or other Error messages.

”An Error has Occurred”

An error has occurred” when booting up.

An error appears when opening any program.

Gives “An error has occurred” message when a gamecard is launched.

“An error has occurred” when initializing the camera within the camera app.

Gives “An error has occurred” message when a gamecard is launched a second time.

An error appears when opening the camera.

Showing impossible date (00/00) and time (00:00) and error code when launching software.

An Error has occurred after Health and Safety screen on a known hacked console. OP admits doing something “really dumb”.

Error Codes

Error 0000FE00

Error 0000FEFE

Error 0000FEFD

Error 034218 When Updating.

Other Error Codes

Other Error Messages

Error Message: “The System Memory Has Been Corrupted/Damaged” when opening Web Browser

“The Object Inserted in the SD Card Slot Isn’t Valid” Error message upon attempting to load content off of a SD card.

When loading a game, the message “The save data could not be accessed” appears.

“Unable to connect to the access point” when connecting to Wi-Fi

Screen Related Errors. Console is Fully Functional, but There are Errors in the Displays.