Gaming Dsi Power Board connector ripped off

ankokushoujo

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It was the first time for me to attempt the disassembly of a dsi and I accidently ripped off the white power board connector from the motherboard. To remedy the problem, I ran wires to reestablish the connection between the four joints, but for some reason, It still doesn't work. Although there is continuity between the newly installed wires, and the "-" side of the battery diode, the "+" side lacks it. I guess it should beep too, isn't it? But it's strange, because I only tampered with the motherboard, and the device worked well before the "incident" :P

Second question: Is there any schematic for ds's available?
IMG_20180703_141038.jpg
 

FAST6191

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I should say that the joints on the battery connector don't look great but that is probably just mechanical rather than anything useful.

Anyway. When the connector got ripped off it might have damaged the pad it joined to (that looks like it goes almost straight into a set of vias there, bonus is there appears to be a test point just the other side you might instead be able to use).
I should also note though that those spring terminals are awful if you are playing with a multimeter. If you can try with a battery that might be better.


Schematics. Not that I have seen. Component level repair and diagnostics is uncommon on the GBA and DS family if you are more used to the Apple side of things -- if it is not a fuse, switch, volume control or cart connector it tends to be considered dead and gets replaced, and as motherboards have traditionally been cheap enough to allow that (you could pick up GBAs anywhere for £5 or so for a while -- I can't even get shipping for that from most of the big electronics vendors). https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+DSi+Motherboard+Replacement/3748 is about as good as it gets.
 

ankokushoujo

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Thank you for your help, well the culprit might be way more obvious than I thought it to be, as I've found out that F1 fuse on the other side of the motherboard was not soldered properely at the one end (replaced it before, because the old one was blown). Unfortunately, I've already removed the jumper wires I installed before, so I can proceed with troubleshooting at a later time, when I'll have some wires to use.

Too bad there are no schematics available, I would have loved to study the functions and working of those components.
 

actualkoifish

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Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I have a question about this same power connector. I accidentally broke the plug side of mine (I tried removing it without thinking), and because it's only two wires and a white plug, I want to just replace the white plug. However, I have no idea what the piece is called, so I have no idea how to search for it.

Does anybody know what the plug is called? Is it a standard plug type, and can I buy replacements anywhere? It looks like something you should be able to buy for a pittance but I don't know how to look for it.
 

FAST6191

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Sadly standard is a thing that exists on PCs, some cars (though even that is variable and I have bought whole old harnesses at considerable expense to get connectors before, and regularly wholly replace things with others, and even things that are seriously standardised like radios I still have to adapt a lot of the time) and within device classes (find a dead one and rip it off that*). You might get lucky and find one, someone that knows the flavour and can direct you or the like but there is no list of components we share around for repairing things in circles like this.

*there are those that will buy up cheap versions at yard sales, auctions, flea markets, car boot sales, strip components off them and sell them on individually (individually worth less than the sum of its parts) on the usual places for second hand tat. I tend not to rate the chances of most plastic connectors being desoldered mind you, though if they are willing to stake a name on it then if it works then it works (40% success of having a viable component when you desolder it is still 40% so get a stack of cheap devices, strip them all and you will probably get something).

Connectors (see also interconnects, terminals and sockets) are largely sold at the same places that sell electronics components if you did want to try. There are various companies that make them, and families/classes they make individually so have fun there.
This also isn't like amazon or ebay and there are usually minimum spends, or minium spends to get free shipping (else it is small fortune) which is rather at odds with the 2 cent connector you might find for this. If you are at a school, university, know a local electronics repair shop/manufacturer then they probably have orders all the time with them and are usually happy enough to tack on something more and call you when it gets in if you go ask nicely. Pro tip is when it is a 2c part order 10 of them or whatever you would not stop to pick up a coin for, not so bad here but just in case you do melt it or sneeze and it goes flying then a replacement on hand is nice to have.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/category/connectors-interconnects/20 (this is probably the biggest vendor for most of the world and almost certainly US)
https://www.newark.com/c/connectors...-INTERCONNECT_PCB_RECEPTACLES-MAY20-WF1980967
https://www.mouser.com/c/connectors/
https://www.sparkfun.com/categories...ory_91&filter_price_floor=&filter_price_ceil=
https://www.avnet.com/shop/emea/c/connectors/
https://export.rsdelivers.com/category/electronics-components-power-connectors/connectors
They will all tend to offer something called a parametric search which you can narrow things down with, as opposed to being all about being a catalogue like other selling sites.

About the only difference between a conventional mechanical connector and this is you might have to specify number of pins and pin pitch (as in distance between them). Everything else is defined by standard mechanical engineering drawing, and maybe skip that for a brand if they have certain families with similar features. Nintendo could have used a standard type but whether it is still sold (we are now however many years on, and like most plastic components they tend to get cycled out leaving you hunting for old stock**) and what that is I tend not to see, and I don't think the gigaleaks included a nice bill of materials or schematics that include vendor names, numbers and the like.

One note with connectors is they might not ship with easy to solder connectors on (such things tend to make for larger components than other methods) and thus you get into specialist crimp tools, needing ferrules and the like. You should be able to tell from the listing/datasheet, and if not hopefully you get lucky and it is a push connector you can put the ferrules on and slide into place with.

**which is a whole other field unto itself, normally more in manufacture settings but repair comes into it too.
https://octopart.com/electronic-parts/connectors
https://www.findchips.com/parametric/Connectors
https://www.alldatasheet.com/
Those being more where you go to find such things, and whatever vendor still has stock of them, though the above might also do and have some legacy stock of things.

If playing cowboy then do also bear in mind you only care about the pin pitch, suitable male/female, and number of them (at least have enough, removing/ignoring redundant is possible and maybe even preferable in some scenarios). Can happily get something from a dead device or from a cheapy shop that joins to the relevant pins and either file down excess (including alignment/this way up stupid pins that might be on top) or make up difference with some form of glue (polymer adhesives, think like caulk but more for this, being more what you will want to look at than superglue or epoxy) so it does not wiggle out.
This is assuming you don't do what the OP eventually did and just solder wires across instead (quick, easy if you know how, cheap and reliable)
 

Alu1scard

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Hi, sorry i have the same problem
It was the first time for me to attempt the disassembly of a dsi and I accidently ripped off the white power board connector from the motherboard. To remedy the problem, I ran wires to reestablish the connection between the four joints, but for some reason, It still doesn't work. Although there is continuity between the newly installed wires, and the "-" side of the battery diode, the "+" side lacks it. I guess it should beep too, isn't it? But it's strange, because I only tampered with the motherboard, and the device worked well before the "incident" :P

Second question: Is there any schematic for ds's available?
View attachment 134473
Hi, sorry i have the same problem. do you have any solution for this?
 

missing_lynxx

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Hi, sorry to again revive this dead thread, but I found a solution. I did the exact same thing OP did plus breaking the pad itself, and wanted to find the part to repair it. Through a lot of digging (special thanks to the person on reddit who told me it looked like a JST connector), I have found the exact part.

The port is a specific JST/ACH connector called
BM02B-ACHSS-GAN-ETF (LF)(SN)

and can be purchased. Make sure it is the model with 2 poles, as thats the one the dsi xl uses. (i'd leave the link, but im a new user, however copying that and pasting it in google should bring it up.) I hope this helps!!
 
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FAST6191

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Dead thread it might have been by some definitions but never feel bad about posting if you are going to drop such knowledge on things.

At time of writing digikey have some in
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/jst-sales-america-inc/BM02B-ACHSS-GAN-ETF-LF-SN/9385559
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-headers/6880984
https://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-so...gan-tf-lf-sn/header-top-entry-2way/dp/1684116
Most of those will have US equivalents as well and there are other vendors out there.

As above then when such things cost pennies I would order some with spares lest you sneeze or screw up soldering and thus can try again without the wait.
Sadly most big vendors have a minimum order so you might have to attach to someone else's (there might be an electronics shop in town that does things monthly or whatever, as might universities) or make up the money on something else (easy for me but I like electronics).

For those new to things most electronics shops are build around people doing runs of things and buying thousands of such.
When it offers you
1) A reel
2) A digi reel (though others will have similar terms)
3) Cut tape/CT

Reels go in pick and place machines and come with a minimum number of components.
Digi reels are reels wound back up with some smaller number.
Cut tape is the tape that is on the reels. There will be some papery backing and a clear coating with the components sandwiched between.
I doubt these will come in tubes but that can be a thing for larger components.

Anyway you are going to want cut tape if they offer it. Per unit costs will be higher but that is what it is.
 

sebauru

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It was the first time for me to attempt the disassembly of a dsi and I accidently ripped off the white power board connector from the motherboard. To remedy the problem, I ran wires to reestablish the connection between the four joints, but for some reason, It still doesn't work. Although there is continuity between the newly installed wires, and the "-" side of the battery diode, the "+" side lacks it. I guess it should beep too, isn't it? But it's strange, because I only tampered with the motherboard, and the device worked well before the "incident" :P

Second question: Is there any schematic for ds's available?
View attachment 134473
Maybe too late, but, you actually short circuited positive in negative as i can see in the picture. I recently have this issue and can solve soldering the cables directly, butt positive only contact with a little pad. In your pic the positive touche ground. This causes a fuse on D pad side marked as f1 to cut off too, so, fix this or not work. Sorry if english bad, i'm spanish native speker. Hope you can solve this (6 yers later)
 

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