# Switch OLED teardown V1/V2



## grubgrub (Sep 30, 2021)

Was hoping to do an easy motherboard swap from the V1 unit.
But there are a few changes internally from the video :'(


These are the ones i noted


----------



## sith (Sep 30, 2021)

wow didnt realize the redbox was so different from the V0, yeah thats not looking like an easy frankenstein, and I would guess it would have a different screen ribbon..


----------



## AD2076 (Sep 30, 2021)

Switch OLED body is larger than previous models. How can the old MB be too big?


----------



## sith (Sep 30, 2021)

AD2076 said:


> Switch OLED body is larger than previous models. How can the old MB be too big?


sure the case is a bit bigger but the layout is totally rearranged. You can clearly see they have extra room for the big stand hinges and a much bigger sub-board on the right, also looks like emmc is integrated now too so no XS mod-chip possible..


----------



## Hayato213 (Sep 30, 2021)

AD2076 said:


> Switch OLED body is larger than previous models. How can the old MB be too big?



Take a closer look, the newer OLED Model is shifted to the left and the older model is shifted to the right to compare the battery and other component location, from where the battery is, the board is shorter on the OLED.


----------



## AD2076 (Sep 30, 2021)

I'd get rid of the big stand and hammer the old MB into the new body.


----------



## Deleted member 550701 (Sep 30, 2021)

Well are the modchips dead?


----------



## grubgrub (Sep 30, 2021)

AD2076 said:


> I'd get rid of the big stand and hammer the old MB into the new body.



The MB can sort of fit if modifications are made.
like If the hinges are removed, breaking some plastic pieces for the battery housing.
Not too sure how to get the microsd to move places, maybe can keep it internal somehow

But it all depends if V1 MB will even display on the OLED


----------



## AD2076 (Sep 30, 2021)

my handheld console already have an oled. PSVITA is better than Switch.
Every thread needs a fanboy war....


----------



## peteruk (Sep 30, 2021)

Hmmm, y'all have got me thinking now, or at least fantasising.  Find some very clever electronics installer (I know a couple) and have them transfer all the internals or the minimum stuff across to the new OLED.

Wonder how that would mess with my internal trinket though.


----------



## CompSciOrBust (Sep 30, 2021)

sith said:


> sure the case is a bit bigger but the layout is totally rearranged. You can clearly see they have extra room for the big stand hinges and a much bigger sub-board on the right, also looks like emmc is integrated now too so no XS mod-chip possible..


Emmc was soldered to the board on the lite, all we need to do is figure out the read and write pads. Worst case scenario is desoldering the nand, modifying it, then reballing it. Whether or not glitching works is another question.


----------



## HollowGrams (Sep 30, 2021)

CompSciOrBust said:


> Emmc was soldered to the board on the lite, all we need to do is figure out the read and write pads. Worst case scenario is desoldering the nand, modifying it, then reballing it. Whether or not glitching works is another question.



If glitching works a SX Lite approach will be needed since nand is soldered to board.  Meanning Core or HWFLY wont work since nand module needs to clip in,


----------



## Kallrkyle (Sep 30, 2021)

Why do youtupe reviewer always act stupid, had to give up on watching the vid since the guy kept acting like a jerk


----------



## Deleted member 550701 (Sep 30, 2021)

Kallrkyle said:


> Why do youtupe reviewer always act stupid, had to give up on watching the vid since the guy kept acting like a jerk


Yeah Austin Evans sucks but many other reviewers are great


----------



## Hepklep (Oct 1, 2021)

Are we maybe thinking about this the wrong way? My personal goal is to fit the OLED screen to my V1 switch and I'm not really interested in the rest of the gubbins. So with that, my interest is mainly on the placement of the ribbon cable to the screen/digitiser and if they are the same connector. With that all that wold be needed is to take a dremel to the front facia or wait for an ebay special to come along. I'll be watching for teardowns of the coming weeks that are from someone more reliable that this youtuber.


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 1, 2021)

Hepklep said:


> Are we maybe thinking about this the wrong way? My personal goal is to fit the OLED screen to my V1 switch and I'm not really interested in the rest of the gubbins. So with that, my interest is mainly on the placement of the ribbon cable to the screen/digitiser and if they are the same connector. With that all that wold be needed is to take a dremel to the front facia or wait for an ebay special to come along. I'll be watching for teardowns of the coming weeks that are from someone more reliable that this youtuber.




The ribbon cable for the screen seems to fold in different directions in the OLED switch


----------



## zal16 (Oct 3, 2021)

where is placed the eMMC?


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 3, 2021)

zal16 said:


> where is placed the eMMC?



Not 100% sure yet. Maybe on the new black board or underneath it.
Need a full teardown


----------



## fvig2001 (Oct 4, 2021)

Sucks that NAND is perma soldered. The OLED would have been the weird fan's tricked out Switch. At least they fixed the SD card but made it probably harder to replace.

Goes back to a dream of a more portable dock with a power bank and a portable 15.6 1080p/4k monitor lol


----------



## ZachyCatGames (Oct 4, 2021)

zal16 said:


> where is placed the eMMC?


Soldered to the main board on the back under a shield.


----------



## Milenko (Oct 4, 2021)

_Shimon said:


> Well are the modchips dead?


There's no way they'd let the oled be chippable


----------



## mathew77 (Oct 4, 2021)

ZachyCatGames said:


> Soldered to the main board on the back under a shield.


So-o-o one need to desolder/solder it back to make a proper glitch, right?


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 4, 2021)

Milenko said:


> There's no way they'd let the oled be chippable


Chances are good that it is, because it uses the same Mariko chipset as the Lite and Red Box Switches.
If Nintendo wanted, they could have fixed the SoC like months ago for the two above mentioned revisions.
It's unlikely that they are currently producing glitchable Mariko SoCs for Red Box/Lite Switches and non-glitchable Mariko SoCs just for the OLED model - it makes no sense.
Having one SoC however that can be used in all 3 available Switch revisions makes sense for Nintendo - financially.

The question is, will Nintendo at one point produce non-glitchable SoCs? Changes to SoCs are expansive and currently all Switches in circulation (that's 90 million consoles) are hackable one way or the other - so the worst that could happen to Nintendo already happened.


----------



## The Real Jdbye (Oct 4, 2021)

So if you can't do a motherboard swap into an OLED Switch, there's still a chance you could do a screen swap into an old Switch, even if it takes modifying the shell a little, as long as the connector is the same.


----------



## linuxares (Oct 4, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Chances are good that it is, because it uses the same Mariko chipset as the Lite and Red Box Switches.
> If Nintendo wanted, they could have fixed the SoC like months ago for the two above mentioned revisions.
> It's unlikely that they are currently producing glitchable Mariko SoCs for Red Box/Lite Switches and non-glitchable Mariko SoCs just for the OLED model - it makes no sense.
> Having one SoC however that can be used in all 3 available Switch revisions makes sense for Nintendo - financially.
> ...


The chip can still have different software that might have patched said race exploit.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 4, 2021)

linuxares said:


> The chip can still have different software that might have patched said race exploit.


It's not a race condition, it's a voltage glitch, that causes the SoC to skip the BCT check.
But the same thing I said would also apply, IF Nintendo would've done anything software wise on the SoC - why only touch it for OLED models, when they could've done it for all other revisions as well ?


----------



## Deleted member 550701 (Oct 4, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> currently all Switches in circulation (that's 90 million consoles) are hackable one way or the other - so the worst that could happen to Nintendo already happened.


Well around 20 million of them are hackable by fusee gelee, and the other 70 mil. are hackable through a modchip (+ Déjà Vu on ipatched eristas below 4.1.0) , which let's be real here only a small percentage of people are actually going to do.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 4, 2021)

_Shimon said:


> Well around 20 million of them are hackable by fusee gelee, and the other 70 mil. are hackable through a modchip (+ Déjà Vu on ipatched eristas below 4.1.0) , which let's be real here only a small percentage of people are actually going to do.


What people do or don't do, doesn't change the fact that every single Switch out in the wild, no matter the revision or firmware version can be hacked.
It's also beyond me why people hesitate to install a modchip in their Switch (or let someone mod it for them) - it might be expansive but the gain outweights the cons imho.


----------



## linuxares (Oct 4, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> It's not a race condition, it's a voltage glitch, that causes the SoC to skip the BCT check.
> But the same thing I said would also apply, IF Nintendo would've done anything software wise on the SoC - why only touch it for OLED models, when they could've done it for all other revisions as well ?


Still if the software is changed/patched. It might not be possible. I don't know since I haven't seen the data.


----------



## Kallrkyle (Oct 4, 2021)

Here is another vid with some more info about the inside of the oled switch


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 4, 2021)

linuxares said:


> Still if the software is changed/patched. It might not be possible. I don't know since I haven't seen the data.


A hardware fault patched in software?


----------



## Deleted member 550701 (Oct 4, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> A hardware fault patched in software?


It can be limited, not fully patched but limited


----------



## linuxares (Oct 4, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> A hardware fault patched in software?


It all depends. the BCT checks etc. is part of the firmware on said chip. It might be possible to fix it via software. So it's not a hardware fault, it's still a software in said hardware that is the failure point.


----------



## djnate27 (Oct 4, 2021)

Hayato213 said:


> Take a closer look, the newer OLED Model is shifted to the left and the older model is shifted to the right to compare the battery and other component location, from where the battery is, the board is shorter on the OLED.


Why does the OLED Switch's body look bigger than the original? Is it just wishful thinking on my part?


----------



## Hayato213 (Oct 4, 2021)

djnate27 said:


> Why does the OLED Switch's body look bigger than the original? Is it just wishful thinking on my part?



Not bigger they just shifted the location of components inside over to the right.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 4, 2021)

Hayato213 said:


> Not bigger they just shifted the location of components inside over to the right.


It's .1 inches wider.


----------



## ganons (Oct 4, 2021)

Kallrkyle said:


> Why do youtupe reviewer always act stupid, had to give up on watching the vid since the guy kept acting like a jerk


Yea he's kinda cringy


----------



## ZachyCatGames (Oct 4, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Chances are good that it is, because it uses the same Mariko chipset as the Lite and Red Box Switches.
> If Nintendo wanted, they could have fixed the SoC like months ago for the two above mentioned revisions.
> It's unlikely that they are currently producing glitchable Mariko SoCs for Red Box/Lite Switches and non-glitchable Mariko SoCs just for the OLED model - it makes no sense.
> Having one SoC however that can be used in all 3 available Switch revisions makes sense for Nintendo - financially.
> ...


They burn ipatches at the time the device is manufactured afaict, not at the time the chip is manufactured. Seeing as they already needed to setup new assembly lines and update their tooling for the new hardware, they could’ve easily added a patch to mitigate the bct glitch attack and had practically no reason not to.
But this is Nintendo so idfk


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 6, 2021)

New video out



He confired that the 64gb is on the seperate board







I didnt watch the whole thing so im not sure if the OLED has the same ribbon cable as the V1 switch
But we can see the position is different


----------



## Imancol (Oct 6, 2021)

mathew77 said:


> So-o-o one need to desolder/solder it back to make a proper glitch, right?


Desoldering the Emmc will not cause RMC mode. It must have been removed from the Tegra chip.


PD: How is it possible that retail Smartphones have forced shutdown with Volume - and Power and Recovery mode with Volume + and Power? How can you track a phone with a secure lock if it has already been forced to shut down and erase from Recovery?


----------



## Imancol (Oct 6, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> New video out
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Dirty table, a webcam. A total disaster.


----------



## ZachyCatGames (Oct 6, 2021)

Ghost92 said:


> Desoldering the Emmc will not cause RMC mode. It must have been removed from the Tegra chip.


RCM is present as always and physically removing the eMMC will still get you there. But it's still useless without official repair payloads as was the case on other marikos and later eristas.

They're referring to the SX Chips which require doing some fuckery with the eMMC.


----------



## Imancol (Oct 6, 2021)

ZachyCatGames said:


> RCM is present as always and physically removing the eMMC will still get you there. But it's still useless without official repair payloads as was the case on other marikos and later eristas.
> 
> They're referring to the SX Chips which require doing some fuckery with the eMMC.


no one will get their hands dirty with a modchip. And apparently the shield on 2 EmmC are to make things more difficult. Lo que obliga a todos los usuarios promedio a renunciar a realizar una modificación en el hogar.


----------



## zal16 (Oct 8, 2021)

I have reason to believe that the right place of the NAND is on the back of the motherboard, as shown in the photo. 
The chip on the daughterboard, I'm pretty sure it's just the game card controller


----------



## zal16 (Oct 8, 2021)

The doubt will only disappear when someone removes the shield. 

Remember that the NAND of the Switch Lite is under a shield too.


----------



## BaamAlex (Oct 8, 2021)

AD2076 said:


> Switch OLED body is larger than previous models


The body isn't larger. Just the frames from the screen were made smaller


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 8, 2021)

zal16 said:


> I have reason to believe that the right place of the NAND is on the back of the motherboard, as shown in the photo.
> The chip on the daughterboard, I'm pretty sure it's just the game card controller


This is correct, check this:


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 8, 2021)

BaamAlex said:


> The body isn't larger. Just the frames from the screen were made smaller


It's .1 inches wider


----------



## BaamAlex (Oct 8, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> It's .1 inches wider


No...


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 8, 2021)

BaamAlex said:


> No...


Dude please, check the official specs on Nintendos page and also check the 1000000 videos on YouTube, which compare the models.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 8, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> This is correct, check this:




This is good news from a repair prespective.  Imagine cart slot or sd card slot going out and you cant repair easily cause 64GB MMC on same board.  Thank you. for the info.


----------



## BaamAlex (Oct 8, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Dude please, check the official specs on Nintendos page and also check the 1000000 videos on YouTube, which compare the models.


If the oled switch would 1 inch wider...the old Joycons wouldn't fit into the rail of the oled switch. Just the frames are smaller. Not the body itself.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 8, 2021)

BaamAlex said:


> If the oled switch would 1 inch wider...the old Joycons wouldn't fit into the rail of the oled switch. Just the frames are smaller. Not the body itself.


English is not my native language, I might have mistaken width with length, but one of those has .1 inches more than the regular model


----------



## BaamAlex (Oct 8, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> English is not my native language, I might have mistaken width with length, but one of those has .1 inches more than the regular model


Yeah...the bezels on the screen. These are smaller. The body itself has the same length, width height like the old model.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 8, 2021)

BaamAlex said:


> Yeah...the bezels on the screen. These are smaller. The body itself has the same length, width height like the old model.



No, I already told you, check the dimensions here:

https://www.nintendo.com/switch/compare/


----------



## proconsule54 (Oct 8, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> No, I already told you, check the dimensions here:
> 
> https://www.nintendo.com/switch/compare/


i saw a 0.1" diff from oled and regular switch
9.5 long vs 9.4

OLED
4” high, 9.5” long, and .55” deep 
Regular
4” high, 9.4” long, and  .55” deep


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 8, 2021)

proconsule54 said:


> i saw a 0.1" diff from oled and regular switch
> 9.5 long vs 9.4
> 
> OLED
> ...


That's what I've been trying to tell him for like 2 hours now


----------



## proconsule54 (Oct 8, 2021)

Yes but next time write 0.1 instead of .1 it can lead to misunderstandings 
Probably he undestrand 1 inch not 0.1


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 9, 2021)

For the moment, neither Hekate nor AMS have been updated to support the Switch OLED drivers right ? 
I recieved mine yesterday, and my friend, who has been soldering chips for a while,  has chips for switch and switch lite. 
I’m really curious to see if Nintendo has done something against these chips.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 9, 2021)

dotmehdi said:


> For the moment, neither Hekate nor AMS have been updated to support the Switch OLED drivers right ?
> I recieved mine yesterday, and my friend, who has been soldering chips for a while,  has chips for switch and switch lite.
> I’m really curious to see if Nintendo has done something against these chips.


Hekate 5.6.0 added full support for the OLED Switch (Aula):
https://github.com/CTCaer/hekate/releases/tag/v5.6.0

Don't know about Atmosphere tho.


----------



## BaamAlex (Oct 9, 2021)

dotmehdi said:


> I’m really curious to see if Nintendo has done something against these chips


I would say yes. They did something against these chips. But who knows?


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 9, 2021)

BaamAlex said:


> I would say yes. They did something against these chips. But who knows?



SOC looks same - So in theory all that needs to be done is make a QSB that connects to the 64GB Emmc lines.  Basically SX Lite approach.


----------



## zal16 (Oct 9, 2021)

Hologram said:


> SOC looks same - So in theory all that needs to be done is make a QSB that connects to the 64GB Emmc lines.  Basically SX Lite approach.



what does qsb mean?


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 9, 2021)

zal16 said:


> what does qsb mean?


Quick Solder Board


----------



## sith (Oct 9, 2021)

BaamAlex said:


> I would say yes. They did something against these chips. But who knows?


after your rigorous denials on the last page about the obvious size difference i'm gonna say your guess is worth nothing.


----------



## BaamAlex (Oct 9, 2021)

sith said:


> after your rigorous denials on the last page about the obvious size difference i'm gonna say your guess is worth nothing.


Who cares about what you say or think?


----------



## Maupiti (Oct 9, 2021)

linuxares said:


> The chip can still have different software that might have patched said race exploit.


If I remember well, Microsoft did it in the last revisions of Xbox360 (mine is a Jtag  and still running).


----------



## linuxares (Oct 9, 2021)

Maupiti said:


> If I remember well, Microsoft did it in the last revisions of Xbox360 (mine is a Jtag  and still running).


They did. Then the RGH happened


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 9, 2021)

Just a matter of time before we know what works, what doesn't and whats needed.


----------



## Maupiti (Oct 9, 2021)

Hologram said:


> Just a matter of time before we know what works, what doesn't and whats needed.


I wonder if it’s possible to patch a glitch attack on a Soc with only softwares revisions only…


----------



## Maupiti (Oct 9, 2021)

linuxares said:


> They did. Then the RGH happened


Rgh was quite tedious on the very last revisions..


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 9, 2021)

Maupiti said:


> I wonder if it’s possible to patch a glitch attack on a Soc with only softwares revisions only…



It has been stated that it is possible to fix without hardware changes.  Not sure how true this is though.


----------



## susi91 (Oct 9, 2021)

sith said:


> after your rigorous denials on the last page about the obvious size difference i'm gonna say your guess is worth nothing.


Probably just a misapprehension 
.1 isn't a common writing style in germany.
I guess 0,1 would be better to read, but millimeters would be much better, lol


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 9, 2021)

Maupiti said:


> Rgh was quite tedious on the very last revisions..



RGH is a very simple mod and the newly just relesed RGH 1.2 gives slims insta boots. (Excluding Winchester of course).


----------



## Maupiti (Oct 9, 2021)

Hologram said:


> RGH is a very simple mod and the newly just relesed RGH 1.2 gives slims insta boots. (Excluding Winchester of course).


Haven’t been in Xbox360 hacking for a long time (sold my slim that I modded, Star Wars limited edition with 3 nands installed,  and kept my jtag ). What a bum.., but I needed money at this time.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 9, 2021)

Maupiti said:


> Haven’t been in Xbox360 hacking for a long time (sold my slim that I moded and kept my jtag ).



Crazy to think that RGH still being optimized in 2021.  Maybe we get something for Winchester in the near future.


----------



## ZachyCatGames (Oct 9, 2021)

Maupiti said:


> I wonder if it’s possible to patch a glitch attack on a Soc with only softwares revisions only…


They can mitigate it with an ipatch, which would be like the RCM patch on Eristas.
It could only be applied to new devices but it wouldn’t require a full hardware revision.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 9, 2021)




----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 9, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


>



So the USB C port is the same or older ports fit?  I certainly hope so.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 9, 2021)

Hologram said:


> So the USB C port is the same or older ports fit?  I certainly hope so.


from the comments the guy can only test using a sx core but he believes he needs to try an sx lite to really see if it would work .


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 9, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> from the comments the guy can only test using a sx core but he believes he needs to try an sx lite to really see if it would work .


If you can find nand pinouts and do a wire install with SX Lite you will get your answer.


----------



## sith (Oct 9, 2021)

BaamAlex said:


> Who cares about what you say or think?


nobody, didn't mean to offend or flame you but maybe you could say what premises you have for your conclusions otherwise its valueless, left ony to go on what i've learned of you from this thread. Which was not a misunderstanding of the magnitude of the difference but the denial of the existence of a difference, many users pointed you to a resource for their conclusions that its wider.  

I would say that nintendos previous hardware and security changes to fix exploits and them having killed off gary/team Xecuter they probably didnt change anything.. its a guess but i think it helps if you state your premises.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 9, 2021)

Hologram said:


> If you can find nand pinouts and do a wire install with SX Lite you will get your answer.


 the guy has said he will make a video to tell us if the mod chips work or not i expect that to be done by end of tomorrow maybe


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 10, 2021)

Hologram said:


> If you can find nand pinouts and do a wire install with SX Lite you will get your answer.



That's what we're planning to do next week


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 10, 2021)

dotmehdi said:


> That's what we're planning to do next week


im not an expert sorry for asking but what actually causes the v2 switches to be hacked by the chip like what entry point is it abusing.


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 10, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> im not an expert sorry for asking but what actually causes the v2 switches to be hacked by the chip like what entry point is it abusing.



The chip glitches the BCT check in the Nvidia X1's bootrom. The SX Core/Lite/HWFly is written with a custom bct generated with the tools intended for the Nvidia Jetson devboard, which is directly injected to the nand, then rapidly drops and increases the voltage to the CPU just long enough so it skips over a branch but short enough that it doesn't crash the console. Nvidia has mitigations in other parts of the bootrom for this type of attack but forgot it in the most important part, which is the BCT check.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 10, 2021)

dotmehdi said:


> That's what we're planning to do next week


Who is we?


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 10, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Who is we?



Team Xecuter from the Penn.  They will email us the results.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 10, 2021)

Hologram said:


> Team Xecuter from the Penn.  They will email us the results.


was speaking to a youtuber apparently someone needs to find the solder points of the nand and create a new ribbon


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 10, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> was speaking to a youtuber apparently someone needs to find the solder points of the nand and create a new ribbon



Thats one route.  You dont need a ribbon with a direct wire method.  So as of now all that is needed is nand pinout and you can test.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 10, 2021)

Hologram said:


> Thats one route.  You dont need a ribbon with a direct wire method.


direct ?


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 10, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> direct ?


Yes from nand points to Lite Chip - QSB is just an easier way to install and arent 100% needed.  Some did their lites like this when they didn't have the nand qsb or they damaged it.

So needed:

Nand pinouts on switch motherboard
Lite chip nand points (They are out there)
SX lite or Clone
Switch Oled
Install Test


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 10, 2021)

how long do you think it will be before we hear anything


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 10, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Yes from nand points to Lite Chip - QSB is just an easier way to install and arent 100% needed.  Some did their lites like this when they didn't have the nand qsb or they damaged it.
> 
> So needed:
> 
> ...



So what instead of the ribbon a direct wire is used. Where does the wire come from is it custom for the switch or something and would someone have to manufacture them with the chips?. Sorry I have never heard of this method so it's new to me.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 10, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> So what instead of the ribbon a direct wire is used. Where does the wire come from is it custom for the switch or something and would someone have to manufacture them with the chips?. Sorry I have never heard of this method so it's new to me.



A regular plain wire gets soldered from the nand point to the Lite chip.  Should be 4-7 points or something like that so that would mean 1 wire for each point.  Basically the connection the QSB would normally make has to be done manually.  Also, had forgotten, you need I believe 3.3v to power the chip so you would also need to find 3.3v on the OLED Mobo and solder that to the 3.3v on the SX Lite 3.3v pad.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> A regular plain wire gets soldered from the nand point to the Lite chip.  Should be 4-7 points or something like that so that would mean 1 wire for each point.  Basically the connection the QSB would normally make has to be done manually.  Also, had forgotten, you need I believe 3.3v to power the chip so you would also need to find 3.3v on the OLED Mobo and solder that to the 3.3v on the SX Lite 3.3v pad.


Interesting, I wonder when people will figure out the solder points on the Nand.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> Interesting, I wonder when people will figure out the solder points on the Nand.


Thats usually the first thing that get figured out.  Pretty sure someone already on it.


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 11, 2021)

New Video

Mod chip can be used to load Hekate, but the touch screen is not working in the menu.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> New Video
> 
> Mod chip can be used to load Hekate, but the touch screen is not working in the menu.



Is the touchscreen Broken or is the problem software support. Did he use a core chip .


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> Is the touchscreen Broken or is the problem software support. Did he use a core chip .



No really sure, looks like he had to modify  it quite a bit from all the wires.
Hopefully a more professional solution is made.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 11, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> No really sure, looks like he had to modify  it quite a bit from all the wires.
> Hopefully a more professional solution is made.
> 
> View attachment 279177


Its a core inside wired directly.  Hekate will most likely be updated to support touch.  Didn't think about doing it this way but pretty much the same.  Pretty cool.


----------



## mathew77 (Oct 11, 2021)

It's so fascinating that the BigN didn't do any kind of voltage glitch protection in BCT even in it's premium model even so many years of exploiting sxcore, hwfly and CFW itself.

Guess they just doesn't care enough for now.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> No really sure, looks like he had to modify  it quite a bit from all the wires.
> Hopefully a more professional solution is made.
> 
> View attachment 279177


I think people should try the lite chip might be better to use( the YouTuber only had a core chip . I think it's driver support for the screen that was the problem. I wonder how an original SX chip would be


----------



## zal16 (Oct 11, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Its a core inside wired directly.  Hekate will most likely be updated to support touch.  Didn't think about doing it this way but pretty much the same.  Pretty cool.


In the video, it was clear to me that the console crashed in the main menu, as not only does the touch not work, the joycons controls too. Note that the battery meter is not marking.

Even in the face of these problems, it's wonderful to know that Nintendo hasn't taken any action against the BCT bug, just for Hekate to make some adjustments to the software to make them work well on Switch OLED.


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 11, 2021)

zal16 said:


> In the video, it was clear to me that the console crashed in the main menu, as not only does the touch not work, the joycons controls too. Note that the battery meter is not marking.
> 
> Even in the face of these problems, it's wonderful to know that Nintendo hasn't taken any action against the BCT bug, just for Hekate to make some adjustments to the software to make them work well on Switch OLED.



They preferred investing in auctions against the SX Team since they're the only brand able to "reactivate" this bug on patched units. The problem is that hwfly is becoming so expensive and there is no sight of any other clone coming for the moment...
Every night I'm secretly dreaming of open-source programmable chips for our beloved consoles


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

zal16 said:


> In the video, it was clear to me that the console crashed in the main menu, as not only does the touch not work, the joycons controls too. Note that the battery meter is not marking.
> 
> Even in the face of these problems, it's wonderful to know that Nintendo hasn't taken any action against the BCT bug, just for Hekate to make some adjustments to the software to make them work well on Switch OLED.


After some tweaks it should work. My only concern is what about original SX chips would they crash to cus SX os is outdated and will never be updated .


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> After some tweaks it should work. My only concern is what about original SX chips would they crash to cus SX os is outdated and will never be updated .


Spacecraft-NX is the answer here.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Spacecraft-NX is the answer here.


But the original SX chips are useless unless  reflashed with spacecraft. And some people who bought clones are claiming they have SX os on them not spacecraft.


----------



## djpannda (Oct 11, 2021)

zal16 said:


> In the video, it was clear to me that the console crashed in the main menu, as not only does the touch not work, the joycons controls too. Note that the battery meter is not marking.
> 
> Even in the face of these problems, it's wonderful to know that Nintendo hasn't taken any action against the BCT bug, just for Hekate to make some adjustments to the software to make them work well on Switch OLED.


yea it diff crash because there are no battery meter.. but its amazing sign. the question NOW is if a software upgrade is the only thing needed or is it possible that a the pin out changed.. even if its one pin it might be causing it to crash


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> But the original SX chips are useless unless  reflashed with spacecraft. *And some people who bought clones are claiming they have SX os on them not spacecraft.*


That's the first time I heard that but it must be only a handful of people, because all the recent modchip install videos I see on the internet (which is at least 1 new daily), all run Spacecraft-NX.


----------



## zal16 (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> After some tweaks it should work. My only concern is what about original SX chips would they crash to cus SX os is outdated and will never be updated .


Original SX core works correctily on 13.0.0+, without the need to fhash spacecraft, just have a modified boot.dat to chainload the Hekate.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

zal16 said:


> Original SX core works correctily on 13.0.0+, without the need to fhash spacecraft, just have a modified boot.dat to chainload the Hekate.


but i meant like wouldnt it crash like hekate


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> but i meant like wouldnt it crash like hekate


The chip does its work correctly, no big deal since the SoC is the exact same as other Mariko units 
Hekate crashes because it has not been made compatible for the OLED Switch components


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

dotmehdi said:


> The chip does its work correctly, no big deal since the SoC is the exact same as other Mariko units
> Hekate crashes because it has not been made compatible for the OLED Switch components


ah ok just because i have an original sx lite left so im just curious if i would be able to use it.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> ah ok just because i have an original sx lite left so im just curious if i would be able to use it.



Core n Lite are pretty much the same.  They both should work.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Core n Lite are pretty much the same.  They both should work.


ok but the only thing that worried me was how i would navigate around the sx menu to boot the hekate payload cus im assuming touch screen wouldnt work on the sx menu .


----------



## zal16 (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> ok but the only thing that worried me was how i would navigate around the sx menu to boot the hekate payload cus im assuming touch screen wouldnt work on the sx menu .


Use a custom boot.dat and leave sx menu forever


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> ah ok just because i have an original sx lite left so im just curious if i would be able to use it.


Why not flash it with Spacecraft-NX?


----------



## zal16 (Oct 11, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Why not flash it with Spacecraft-NX?


this is a little more dificult, but works too


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

really hope someone releases pictures of the solder points and stuff. if anyone finds anything please update this thread.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> ok but the only thing that worried me was how i would navigate around the sx menu to boot the hekate payload cus im assuming touch screen wouldnt work on the sx menu .


Should work with both chips
Will most likely need spacecraft-nx
Direct wire method



We need the final magic touch.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Should work with both chips
> Will most likely need spacecraft-nx
> Direct wire method
> 
> ...




just saw on the chinese video it took him 6 hours to get the chip set up


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> just saw on the chinese video it took him 6 hours to get the chip set up


That's cause hes a noob, nothing wrong with that.  Shouldnt be more than 6-8 wires if that.  We also have to consider where to cut the alumi heat plate to make this all fit.  SInce in the video the fan was not present.  Either way it all looks pretty straight forward.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> That's cause hes a noob, nothing wrong with that.  Shouldnt be more than 6-8 wires if that.  We also have to consider where to cut the alumi heat plate to make this all fit.  SInce in the video the fan was not present.


I reckon if the lite chip is used we could move the main board of the SX chip to make space for  the heat plate. But I'm not too sure since he seems to have done it quite messy.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 11, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> I reckon if the lite chip is used we could move the main board of the SX chip to make space for  the heat plate. But I'm not too sure since he seems to have done it quite messy.



Yeah, one chip will def fit better than the other.  Guess we have to wait and see or get the hardware ourselves and test.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Yeah, one chip will def fit better than the other.  Guess we have to wait and see or get the hardware ourselves and test.


I have an installer they just need instructions on soldering points etc.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 11, 2021)

dotmehdi said:


> That's what we're planning to do next week


Are you still planning on trying it out . If so what chip are you trying the core or lite


----------



## x021 (Oct 12, 2021)




----------



## zal16 (Oct 12, 2021)

garretts228 said:


>



Ohh my god!


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

zal16 said:


> Ohh my god!


We need someone who will actually share what they did to attempt it now. As good as it is seeing all these people installing we need some information from them.


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 12, 2021)

Looks like someone did try to install the Oled in a regular V1/V2 switch, but the connections are different :'(


----------



## izy (Oct 12, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Looks like someone did try to install the Oled in a regular V1/V2 switch, but the connections are different :'(



Well he didn't have a clue by attempt you mean tried to just plug and play yeah.
Like I said before he had no clue literally was bamboozled by the fact the oled had no power ribbon for back-light.
Well yeah it's oled the pixels individually light up.

The lcd would work if there was a ribbon adapter but touch would be the main issue due to support.
Like how v2 digitizers wouldn't work on v1 boards.


Also the core in oled model would fit fine just remove the efi shielding it provides no real purpose other than being an fcc requirement.


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 12, 2021)

squee666 said:


> Like how v2 digitizers wouldn't work on v1 boards.



Sorry could you explain what do you mean by this?

I swapped by V1 board in a V2 animal crossing switch, seems to be working fine so far.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 12, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Sorry could you explain what do you mean by this?
> 
> I swapped by V1 board in a V2 animal crossing switch, seems to be working fine so far.


Not all are compatible but you can fix that in Hekate.


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 12, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Not all are compatible but you can fix that in Hekate.



Ahh i see, guess i got lucky


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

So what information do we need to be able to attempt a SX chip install. Is just the solder points


----------



## lenselijer (Oct 12, 2021)

Yes, The V2 Flex cable fits apparently, we just need to find the 4 nand points on the motherboard and on the sx core, so we can connect them. This is because the nand chip is soldered now, just like on the switch lite, so we cannot use the connector on the sx core anymore.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

I'm hoping I can use a lite chip


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

lenselijer said:


> Yes, The V2 Flex cable fits apparently, we just need to find the 4 nand points on the motherboard and on the sx core, so we can connect them. This is because the nand chip is soldered now, just like on the switch lite, so we cannot use the connector on the sx core anymore.


dont we already know the points on the sx core/lite so isnt it just the matter of finding the nand points on the oled.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> dont we already know the points on the sx core/lite so isnt it just the matter of finding the nand points on the oled.


This is correct.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> This is correct.


i reckon its gonna be a while before we get them. so far the people who installed them dont want to share anything.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> i reckon its gonna be a while before we get them. so far the people who installed them dont want to share anything.


I'm sure soon as its always the 1st thing that gets done when new(ish) hardware drops.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> I'm sure soon as its always the 1st thing that gets done when new(ish) hardware drops.


one thing is people seem to think its impossible to get a chip but i can see them all over ali express.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> one thing is people seem to think its impossible to get a chip but i can see them all over ali express.


Yes anyone can buy them on ali and there are cheaper places as well.  The real ones are also out there if you know people.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Yes anyone can buy them on ali and there are cheaper places as well.  The real ones are also out there if you know people.


ok so say person x finds the nand points.


what would be the installation process


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> ok so say person x finds the nand points.
> 
> 
> what would be the installation process


HWFLY already have Space-Craft Nx
Originals your choice if you want to flash Space-Craft Nx or not
Solder flex cable to tegra and plug into chip
Solder nand points from mobo to chip

Power on boot.dat if TX
Power on space craft nx if not TX

Setup accordingly


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> HWFLY already have Space-Craft Nx
> Originals your choice if you want to flash Space-Craft Nx or not
> Solder flex cable to tegra and plug into chip
> Solder nand points from mobo to chip
> ...



what would the differences be between core installation and lite installation


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> what would the differences be between core installation and lite installation


Orientation to line up with cable/Lite I guess and where you solder to on the lite.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Orientation to line up with cable/Lite I guess and where you solder to on the lite.


im interested to see which chip is better suited.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> im interested to see which chip is better suited.


Most likely the core since that is what they used.  It has a smaller form factor and easier to fit.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Most likely the core since that is what they used.  It has a smaller form factor and easier to fit.



interesting, would one require more soldering/direct cabling than the other do you think


----------



## sean222 (Oct 12, 2021)

I got my OLED and bought a very expensive HWFLY Core off AliExpress...which will take a month to arrive. Given so much has developed in less than a week, I'm hoping we have some guides in a month! That'll make me a happy camper, as long as I don't botch the very difficult installation.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

sean222 said:


> I got my OLED and bought a very expensive HWFLY Core off AliExpress...which will take a month to arrive. Given so much has developed in less than a week, I'm hoping we have some guides in a month! That'll make me a happy camper, as long as I don't botch the very difficult installation.


a month. are you sure i know a seller who does 10 day delivery on their.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

sean222 said:


> I got my OLED and bought a very expensive HWFLY Core off AliExpress...which will take a month to arrive. Given so much has developed in less than a week, I'm hoping we have some guides in a month! That'll make me a happy camper, as long as I don't botch the very difficult installation.


oh just looked its changed but for me it would arrive around end of october


----------



## sean222 (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> oh just looked its changed but for me it would arrive around end of october



It's ok I don't mind waiting for it, also waiting for the community to share really good instructions if they can. This is crucial and we can easily waste ~500USD if we screw up the motherboard and/or the modchip


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

sean222 said:


> It's ok I don't mind waiting for it, also waiting for the community to share really good instructions if they can. This is crucial and we can easily waste ~500USD if we screw up the motherboard and/or the modchip


how much did you pay for the chip


----------



## MarkSummers (Oct 12, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> i reckon its gonna be a while before we get them. so far the people who installed them dont want to share anything.


Eh? Anyone thats a novice in boardwork can figure out what the new NAND points are if they have a Switch Lite and a OLED. You just hot air the NAND chips off the boards of both consoles. Run a continuity test between each of the SX Lite's solder points on the Switch Lite and find which ballpoint on the NAND each solder point corresponds to. You'll have 4-5 pins, and probably a ground and a 3.3v power from elsewhere. The NAND pins for both systems should be identical. Then run a continuity test on the OLED's ball points to random spots on the motherboard and find where they come out. Those are the new solder points. Reball the NAND chips back to the Switches. You're done.

This is not hard and it's not like someone is hiding secret information that only some master hackers can decipher.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 12, 2021)

does the core and lite chip need to a direct cable to a little power supply?


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

Nothing helpful but I don't understand why they all post about how they get Atmosphere to run but when people ask questions they  disappear.


----------



## x021 (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> We need someone who will actually share what they did to attempt it now. As good as it is seeing all these people installing we need some information from them.


All you have to do is lift the EMMC chip and pin it out. Then install SX / HWFLY chip manually by using something like enamel coated wire etc etc


----------



## HenryMin (Oct 13, 2021)

Some guy posted simple installation picture on Chinese website.
It seems that they detached the eMMC lol





https://tieba.baidu.com/p/7573220146


----------



## thaikhoa (Oct 13, 2021)

not an easy way to mod for the rest of us. v1 is still the king of the scene


----------



## HellsBoyz (Oct 13, 2021)

Another video attempt


----------



## x021 (Oct 13, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> Some guy posted simple installation picture on Chinese website.
> It seems that they detached the eMMC lol
> 
> View attachment 279527


Micro soldering and now lifting BGAs.. Nintendo sure likes to give us a challenge.


----------



## MarkSummers (Oct 13, 2021)

If C is the only possible attachment point you can probably get the wire there without lifting the nand chip by heating the nand up and slipping the wire into the flattened solder ball... actually that's not going to work because the grid is much smaller than the size of the chip, it'll have to come off unless another point is found. You might be able to drill to it from the opposite side of the board with a stencil... but that's probably not going to work either because the other side has the oled and daughterboard connectors in the way.


----------



## vulp_vibes (Oct 13, 2021)

I got my hot air gun and my tiny soldering supplies.. bring it on


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> Nothing helpful but I don't understand why they all post about how they get Atmosphere to run but when people ask questions they  disappear.



What a dumb ass. What's the point of showing off so much and then letting people with no response.


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 13, 2021)

(reposting from this topic, sorry for the spam) 

Guys, if anyone serious manages to have the plans for soldering the chip on the OLED model, my message box is open and I will manage to record everything, from the installation to the first boot of the console.
I work with a professionnal who has been soldering since PSX, we have everything we need, both older and newer revisions, but we don't want to waste our time destroying chips now that some people found the good plans for installing it.
If you have any information, feel free to contact me, we will try to share everything if we get it to work correctly.

(btw sorry for my bad english )


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

So the only difference in installation of the core chip would be just direct cabling to the Nand. Is everything else the same


----------



## linuxares (Oct 13, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> Some guy posted simple installation picture on Chinese website.
> It seems that they detached the eMMC lol
> 
> View attachment 279527
> https://tieba.baidu.com/p/7573220146


holy cow... aka this isn't easy to do


----------



## pwjpssdfvqyuhweuxx (Oct 13, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> Some guy posted simple installation picture on Chinese website.
> It seems that they detached the eMMC lol
> 
> https://tieba.baidu.com/p/7573220146


holy crap that looks hard af haha
here's an archive link incase it gets taken down: https://web.archive.org/web/20211013112441/https://tieba.baidu.com/p/7573220146


----------



## remiferia (Oct 13, 2021)

Same pictures with added simple description (Already archived @ archive.org, you can use browser translate): /p/7573667759


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

If someone can help. I have friend who does installs for YouTube. Can someone give pictures or just a labeled photo of where to solder to on the SX chips. He would like them for both core and lite but either one is ok. He just wants to make sure he knows the correct points to solder stuff to on the SX board. Once he has them he may attempt an install.


----------



## linuxares (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> If someone can help. I have friend who does installs for YouTube. Can someone give pictures or just a labeled photo of where to solder to on the SX chips. He would like them for both core and lite but either one is ok. He just wants to make sure he knows the correct points to solder stuff to on the SX board. Once he has them he may attempt an install.


We literally don't know...


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 13, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> Another video attempt



 Anyone knows how he fixed the inputs / measurements?
There is no new Hekate version out there, so he must have done something, that a regular user can do as well.


----------



## linuxares (Oct 13, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Anyone knows how he fixed the inputs / measurements?
> There is no new Hekate version out there, so he must have done something, that a regular user can do as well.


Coded the needed parts?


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 13, 2021)

linuxares said:


> Coded the needed parts?


It seems CTCaer gave him a fixed version.
If you translate the first text in the video, he says something like "After the efforts of Hekates author, it now works on the OLED Switch......etc"


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> If someone can help. I have friend who does installs for YouTube. Can someone give pictures or just a labeled photo of where to solder to on the SX chips. He would like them for both core and lite but either one is ok. He just wants to make sure he knows the correct points to solder stuff to on the SX board. Once he has them he may attempt an install.


The pictures on this site show you the points:

https://tieba.baidu.com/p/7573220146

The last picture shows a Core modchip.


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 13, 2021)

IFixIt released their teardown
Can remove the screen easily with a suction cup and heat bed.
Although, not really that useful until a way to attach the OLED to a V1 is found


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> The pictures on this site show you the points:
> 
> https://tieba.baidu.com/p/7573220146
> 
> The last picture shows a Core modchip.


So does that mean we know have the right info to do an install


----------



## izy (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> So does that mean we know have the right info to do an install


yes thats the full wiring diagram , only ths the current challenge


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> So does that mean we know have the right info to do an install


Yes, you can do the install but I'm sure there will be a better guide with altivernative solder points that don't require to lift the eMMC.

Also another thing that might cause problems, is the current public build of Hekate - all the working versions running on OLED switches, seem to be non public builds, handed out by CTCaer.


----------



## HenryMin (Oct 13, 2021)

I will also wait for better guide.
I don't want to detach/reball emmc.


----------



## HenryMin (Oct 13, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Yes, you can do the install but I'm sure there will be a better guide with altivernative solder points that don't require to lift the eMMC.
> 
> Also another thing that might cause problems, is the current public build of Hekate - all the working versions running on OLED switches, seem to be non public builds, handed out by CTCaer.


CTC said he will release the fix this week, but AMS doesn't fully support aula btw.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 13, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> CTC said he will release the fix this week, but AMS doesn't fully support aula btw.


There is no rush here - the current method of modding it is barely a PoC.
I'm sure the modchip design will be adapted to the OLED PCB changes and once this happens, I'm sure Hekate and AMS are running 100% on this unit.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> There is no rush here - the current method of modding it is barely a PoC.
> I'm sure the modchip design will be adapted to the OLED PCB changes and once this happens, I'm sure Hekate and AMS are running 100% on this unit.



Does anyone know how to contact the person who posted those pictures. A larger picture of the overall board from them would be very useful


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> Does anyone know how to contact the person who posted those pictures. A larger picture of the overall board from them would be very useful


Aren't they clear enough?


----------



## linuxares (Oct 13, 2021)

squee666 said:


> yes thats the full wiring diagram , only ths the current challenge
> 
> View attachment 279604


I wonder if there is an alt point


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 13, 2021)

linuxares said:


> I wonder if there is an alt point


I assume this will be the limiting factor for most.  Cant wait to get an OLED to start probing.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> I assume this will be the limiting factor for most.  Cant wait to get an OLED to start probing.


I will be getting the installation done soon. My installer will be filming the full procedure. The only thing is if it's better to purchase a core chip and leave my lite chip which I was hoping to use.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> I will be getting the installation done soon. My installer will be filming the full procedure. The only thing is if it's better to purchase a core chip and leave my lite chip which I was hoping to use.


The only point I can't really see well is the D point on the mobo.  I'm sure better pics are coming.


----------



## vulp_vibes (Oct 13, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> I assume this will be the limiting factor for most.  Cant wait to get an OLED to start probing.


same here; I was initially waiting for the installation pictures but after researching to pass the time it quickly flipped around to wanting to find the install points myself. even with the existing pictures, I will probably have a go at mapping it out on my own once I am able to get a console


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> The only point I can't really see well is the D point on the mobo.  I'm sure better pics are coming.


I don't get what the the writing means though if their any translators here please tell me.


----------



## izy (Oct 13, 2021)

linuxares said:


> I wonder if there is an alt point


probably its only dat0 thats missing theres probably a test point somewhere just didnt bother fully checking


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> I don't get what the the writing means though if their any translators here please tell me.


First paragraph translated:

The cracking principle is the same as that of the old large version, because the CPU is the same. Find the corresponding 4 points on the motherboard, and fly the line to the sx chip. The idea is not complicated at all, and the ordinary fly line has no technical content. The most difficult thing is to fly to point C to remove the BGA font chip.

We already know this so...


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 13, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> First paragraph translated:
> 
> The cracking principle is the same as that of the old large version, because the CPU is the same. Find the corresponding 4 points on the motherboard, and fly the line to the sx chip. The idea is not complicated at all, and the ordinary fly line has no technical content. The most difficult thing is to fly to point C to remove the BGA font chip.
> 
> We already know this so...


What Is The words he put on the photos. He put writing with a positive sign and a negative.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 13, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> What Is The words he put on the photos. He put writing with a positive sign and a negative.


Not sure but you can clearly see the differences in the chinese characters.  Simply match them up so you don't mess up.  I'm assuming ground, not to sure yet.  Ones a + and ones a - per pic.

So technically 6 wire setup.

I'm surprised they were able to do this looking at their soldering.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 13, 2021)

Translation says Power Supply + and -
So probably Vcc and GND.


----------



## remiferia (Oct 13, 2021)

The original installation "tutorial" is actually published on 91wii, by flyming: 
https://www.91wii.com/thread-264892-1-1.html
https://www.91wii.com/thread-264922-1-1.html

Someone already republished it here, so you do not need to login to view the entire thread: 
https://web.archive.org/web/20211013112441/https://tieba.baidu.com/p/7573667759

The C pin requires desoldering eMMC chip, and the D pin requires cutting the SoC frame, both are either difficult or potentially destructive. Hopes there are alternative pins on the board to solder.


----------



## susi91 (Oct 13, 2021)

squee666 said:


> yes thats the full wiring diagram , only ths the current challenge
> 
> View attachment 279604


Maybe some silver conductive is enough, in order to 'glue' a hair of (enameled) copper wire to the C ball? 

Anyways, I'd like to see all messed up OLED switches, pictures please


----------



## HenryMin (Oct 14, 2021)

View attachment oledinstall.jpg
I made install layout picture based on the Chinese guide
Use it at your own risk.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 14, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> View attachment 279668
> I made install layout picture based on the Chinese guide
> Use it at your own risk.


That D point looks rough.


----------



## MarkSummers (Oct 14, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Yes, you can do the install but I'm sure there will be a better guide with altivernative solder points that don't require to lift the eMMC.
> 
> Also another thing that might cause problems, is the current public build of Hekate - all the working versions running on OLED switches, seem to be non public builds, handed out by CTCaer.





squee666 said:


> probably its only dat0 thats missing theres probably a test point somewhere just didnt bother fully checking



I thought this initially as well, but given how point D on the board is very obscure, they were digging around quite a bit. I'm not holding my breath the emmc's Dat0 (Point C) comes out anywhere except a pin under the APU. Using one of these may require lifting the eMMC. 

I've never done anything with an SX core chip. Does the eMMC need to be restored to the board to function? I thought it held a partial locker of system keys on it that would be needed to run atmosphere and such.


----------



## HenryMin (Oct 14, 2021)

MarkSummers said:


> I've never done anything with an SX core chip. Does the eMMC need to be restored to the board to function? I thought it held a partial locker of system keys on it that would be needed to run atmosphere and such.


You always need emmc on the board if you installed the modchip.
The modchip reads emmc timing, somehow glitch tegra, and run payload in emmc bct.


----------



## lenselijer (Oct 14, 2021)

The D point reminds me of the Xbox 360 days with the corona postfix adapter


----------



## Quezacotl (Oct 14, 2021)

lenselijer said:


> The D point reminds me of the Xbox 360 days with the corona postfix adapter
> View attachment 279682


Yep, i thought the same. It wouldn't be that hard to make an adapter.


----------



## hippy dave (Oct 14, 2021)

Quezacotl said:


> Yep, i thought the same. It wouldn't be that hard to make an adapter.


Don't call it "corona" these days tho


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 14, 2021)

I don't know if such thin pogopins exist :/
You also have to consider how deep the BGA starts on the eMMC in comparison to the APU on the 360, the required pin is not on the edge of the substrate.


----------



## susi91 (Oct 14, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> You also have to consider how deep the BGA starts on the eMMC in comparison to the APU on the 360, the required pin is not on the edge of the substrate.


Wow, solder the eMMC to the board is really a clever move from ninty.
But I guess there should be a pull-up resistor for the DAT0 line/trace somewhere on the board, most likely near the APU, also useable for C


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 14, 2021)

susi91 said:


> Wow, solder the eMMC to the board is really a clever move from ninty.
> But I guess there should be a pull-up resistor for the DAT0 line/trace somewhere on the board, most likely near the APU, also useable for C


I hope so, on the Switch Lite there were two points exposed on the top layer of the PCB where you could hook it.
The problem with the OLED model is that the eMMC and SoC are on each side of the PCB, so chances are high they are connected only between the layers.


----------



## laraklara (Oct 14, 2021)

hey guys

is that possible to hack the new switch oled with a sx core modchip?

thanks for a answer

regards


----------



## dotmehdi (Oct 14, 2021)

laraklara said:


> hey guys
> 
> is that possible to hack the new switch oled with a sx core modchip?
> 
> ...



https://bit.ly/3AMaNTQ


----------



## Swagboi308 (Oct 14, 2021)

meh. i just think its another cash grab for your money


----------



## sean222 (Oct 14, 2021)

Anyone know what gauge wires are used? 40 for thin one? I've never soldered wire that thin!


----------



## susi91 (Oct 15, 2021)

Edit: Nevermind, seems it's a little bit more complicated than I guessed


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 15, 2021)

Does anyone know what the solder points would be for the SX lite chip. If yes is their like a diagram/picture with the annotated points. The thing is theirs a great deal for a lite chip from a local person and I kinda want to use that as I have said before. It's just everyone has done installs with sx cores.


----------



## x021 (Oct 16, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> Does anyone know what the solder points would be for the SX lite chip. If yes is their like a diagram/picture with the annotated points. The thing is theirs a great deal for a lite chip from a local person and I kinda want to use that as I have said before. It's just everyone has done installs with sx cores.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Oct 17, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> View attachment 279668
> I made install layout picture based on the Chinese guide
> Use it at your own risk.


This is insane. I do alot of repairs and am highly experienced with a heat rework station, this entire process is fairly simple except the bga chip Dat0 point if I have the term right is definitely not worth the risk unless somehow an alt point is found. But I'm guessing that's been prodded a bunch to try and find it.

Am I right in reading the caps need to be bridged?


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 17, 2021)

Has anyone been able to locate the 1.8v location


----------



## remiferia (Oct 18, 2021)

Another installed picture (sx lite chip?):




Source


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 18, 2021)

remiferia said:


> Another installed picture:
> View attachment 280358
> 
> Source


Nice, that looks very tidy


----------



## remiferia (Oct 18, 2021)

Some tips (translated) from Yokan daddy (author of first oled hekate video):









*Update: According to feedback on 91wii, using sx core with the currently public wiring method may cause unable to enter CFW without disconnecting dat0 after enter hekate, thus is not recommended for now. Using sx lite / hwfly lite is recommended.*


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 18, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Nice, that looks very tidy


I'm stuck trying to find a 1.8v point


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Oct 18, 2021)

Just hoping for an alternate point, too many things can go wrong trying to reflow a BGA chip...


----------



## Kallrkyle (Oct 18, 2021)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Just hoping for an alternate point, too many things can go wrong trying to reflow a BGA chip...


I rather reflow/reball a BGA chip that make a kamikaze atempt like we did on the Xvox 360


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 18, 2021)

Kallrkyle said:


> I rather reflow/reball a BGA chip that make a kamikaze atempt like we did on the Xvox 360


humm...
IMO, that, actually, depends.
With Xbox 360 the "gap" between the board and the APU allowed us to do that. I, personally, used wires and needle before we have the Post Fix from TX.
Now, if you look at the Switch and it's eMMC there's no room for slipping in anything without  removing the IC first.... So, in the end, without an alt point, a reball will be the ONLY way.
I'm not sure I'm "ready" for so many reballs, TBH! :/


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 18, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> humm...
> IMO, that, actually, depends.
> With Xbox 360 the "gap" between the board and the APU allowed us to do that. I, personally, used wires and needle before we have the Post Fix from TX.
> Now, if you look at the Switch and it's eMMC there's no room for slipping in anything without  removing the IC first.... So, in the end, without an alt point, a reball will be the ONLY way.
> I'm not sure I'm "ready" for so many reballs, TBH! :/


Solder paste, stencil, hot air, lets go!


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 18, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Solder paste, stencil, hot air, lets go!


I feel you! The hype is real and good! 

Buuut, the "hype" might go down the sink hole when you wake up and realize you have, let's say, 20-30 consoles.
One or two, maybe five, should be fine  now, 20-30 or maybe more a day, it's a completely different story 
I'm really tying to get my hands in one of these OLED units just to try it out.


----------



## HollowGrams (Oct 18, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I feel you! The hype is real and good!
> 
> Buuut, the "hype" might go down the sink hole when you wake up and realize you have, let's say, 20-30 consoles.
> One or two, maybe five, should be fine  now, 20-30 or maybe more a day, it's a completely different story
> I'm really tying to get my hands in one of these OLED units just to try it out.


Rookie


----------



## Kallrkyle (Oct 19, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> humm...
> IMO, that, actually, depends.
> With Xbox 360 the "gap" between the board and the APU allowed us to do that. I, personally, used wires and needle before we have the Post Fix from TX.
> Now, if you look at the Switch and it's eMMC there's no room for slipping in anything without  removing the IC first.... So, in the end, without an alt point, a reball will be the ONLY way.
> I'm not sure I'm "ready" for so many reballs, TBH! :/


I can read you don't know what the Kamikaze hack was

That was when we drilled a hole in the chip on the drive so it could be unlocked and then flasked with cstm firmware
drilling too deep and the chip died


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 19, 2021)

Is is better to use the Core or the Lite chip for this?

I guess time to learn how to reball emmc


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 19, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Is is better to use the Core or the Lite chip for this?
> 
> I guess time to learn how to reball emmc



From pictures the install looks cleaner with the lite chip especially since it's smaller but you need a 1.8v point for the lite


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 19, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> From pictures the install looks cleaner with the lite chip especially since it's smaller but you need a 1.8v point for the lite



Did you manage  to find a 1.8v point?


----------



## MarkSummers (Oct 19, 2021)

If you need a different voltage check around the coils, unless its coming off the main power chipset that used to get fried in the third party dock fiasco event.


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 19, 2021)

HollowGrams said:


> Rookie





Kallrkyle said:


> I can read you don't know what the Kamikaze hack was
> 
> That was when we drilled a hole in the chip on the drive so it could be unlocked and then flasked with cstm firmware
> drilling too deep and the chip died


Yup! I know it... Bought me a Dremel just for this. Before that I used an old iron tip in my Yaxun.
Did my last one a back in February this year.


----------



## Znsale01 (Oct 19, 2021)

for those looking for 1.8... here it is! right next to the volume and power connector.


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 19, 2021)

Znsale01 said:


> for those looking for 1.8... here it is! right next to the volume and power connector.View attachment 280602View attachment 280604


For a split second I was happy thinking it was an alt point C ... then I finished reading and got sad again! LOL!

Nice finding nevertheless!!


----------



## vulp_vibes (Oct 20, 2021)

I was originally quite skeptical of the possibility of a solution similar to the corona postfix adapter due to the clearance, depth, and pitch of the emmc's BGA, but I was in fact able to snake a tinned magnet wire under the chip and get continuity to the dat0 test point on a switch lite board. I will be looking into this further; I am certainly not opposed to the hot air rework method, but also would not mind if it was rendered unnecessary


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 20, 2021)

vulp_vibes said:


> I was originally quite skeptical of the possibility of a solution similar to the corona postfix adapter due to the clearance, depth, and pitch of the emmc's BGA, but I was in fact able to snake a tinned magnet wire under the chip and get continuity to the dat0 test point on a switch lite board. I will be looking into this further; I am certainly not opposed to the hot air rework method, but also would not mind if it was rendered unnecessary



wow nice!
Sounds like this will make modding the switch much easier!
Hopefully we can get somthing like this.


----------



## iolo57 (Oct 20, 2021)

I tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 20, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> I tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.



Do you have a real PCB in your hands?


----------



## vulp_vibes (Oct 20, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> I tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.


ah! I hadn't considered a pcb thin enough to slot under the emmc. that should greatly help with alignment  wasn't expecting to see such a fully-formed solution so quickly as well; very good job


----------



## iolo57 (Oct 20, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Do you have a real PCB in your hands?


Only my prototype that I made with a fpcb ( thickness: 0.1mm) that I cut to the right size.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 20, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> Only my prototype that I made with a fpcb ( thickness: 0.1mm) that I cut to the right size.


How did you connect to dat0? Did you pretin the point on your PCB and applied hot air, once it was in place to join the ball?


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 20, 2021)

vulp_vibes said:


> I was originally quite skeptical of the possibility of a solution similar to the corona postfix adapter due to the clearance, depth, and pitch of the emmc's BGA, but I was in fact able to snake a tinned magnet wire under the chip and get continuity to the dat0 test point on a switch lite board. I will be looking into this further; I am certainly not opposed to the hot air rework method, but also would not mind if it was rendered unnecessary


I was talking about this with a friend of mine yesterday, but I was talking about those 0.1 enameled wires. They are very malleable though.
What's this "magnet" wire you're talking about?


----------



## roosterkills (Oct 20, 2021)

I was thinking something to slid under like a postfix adapter


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 20, 2021)

Does anyone know the height of the BGA? There are pogopins with a 0.68mm diameter afaik.


----------



## iolo57 (Oct 20, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> How did you connect to dat0? Did you pretin the point on your PCB and applied hot air, once it was in place to join the ball?


No, I thought I would slide the fpcb upwards and then fix the fpcb with the 3 anchoring points.
1- pull the fpcb down then weld point 1.
2 - to the right and weld point 2
3- Fix the Fpcb position with point 3.


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 20, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> No, I thought I would slide the fpcb upwards and then fix the fpcb with the 3 anchoring points.
> 1- pull the fpcb down then weld point 1.
> 2 - to the right and weld point 2
> 3- Fix the Fpcb position with point 3.


Hmmm, did you have a chance to test it for continuity? Is it a stable connection?


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 20, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> No, I thought I would slide the fpcb upwards and then fix the fpcb with the 3 anchoring points.
> 1- pull the fpcb down then weld point 1.
> 2 - to the right and weld point 2
> 3- Fix the Fpcb position with point 3.


This will by "tricky" to do on the OLEDs since the eMMC is "enclosed" in those metal frame. Right?
Also, what did you use as the "needle"?


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 20, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> This will by "tricky" to do on the OLEDs since the eMMC is "enclosed" in those metal frame. Right?
> Also, what did you use as the "needle"?


The shield can be removed and reapplied afterwards.


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 20, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> The shield can be removed and reapplied afterwards.


Just trying to make sure we're talking about the same thing 
I was talking about the "frame" around the eMMC, not the "shield" on top of the eMMC.

I know the "frame" can also be removed although it'll be a little bit trickier.
Cheers!


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 20, 2021)

Yeah I'm also talking about the frame, it's easy


----------



## HenryMin (Oct 21, 2021)

Layout pictures for SX Lite/HWFLY Lite










imgur: 

Reference: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Wq4y197i6/


----------



## ZiggyDeer (Oct 21, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> Layout pictures for SX Lite/HWFLY Lite
> View attachment 280796
> View attachment 280798
> View attachment 280835
> Reference: https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Wq4y197i6/


Whoof, that looks rough.

Is there a layout for the SX/HWFLY Core?


----------



## izy (Oct 21, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> I tested with a prototype like that, it works on a classic switch emmc but I don't have the right dimensions for the measurements of an oled switch.



yeah can confirm tried this out a few days ago slides right in

would still need heating the bga


----------



## sean222 (Oct 22, 2021)

What do you guys think about pre-tinning the end of some 30 gauge wire, sliding it in and guessing where point c is (based on pics) and then heat up the bga to melt the solder.....


----------



## izy (Oct 22, 2021)

sean222 said:


> What do you guys think about pre-tinning the end of some 30 gauge wire, sliding it in and guessing where point c is (based on pics) and then heat up the bga to melt the solder.....


gl aligning it cause it will kill the chip if you mess up


----------



## sean222 (Oct 22, 2021)

squee666 said:


> gl aligning it cause it will kill the chip if you mess up



Ya good point. I heard the 2 pins on the corner (let's call it pins 1 and 2) don't do anything so bridging those probably won't kill the chip...but bridging point C (pin 3) and the one beside it 'pin 4' definitely would kill it....ya...that's risky  OK. Guess I will patiently wait for my BGA 153 stencil


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 22, 2021)

sean222 said:


> Ya good point. I heard the 2 pins on the corner (let's call it pins 1 and 2) don't do anything so bridging those probably won't kill the chip...but bridging point C (pin 3) and the one beside it 'pin 4' definitely would kill it....ya...that's risky  OK. Guess I will patiently wait for my BGA 153 stencil


The two pins you mentioned are not connected inside the eMMC but the pins on the board could be connected to ground.
So bridging them COULD cause issues in DAT0 touches them.
We need to wait for a proper PCB delayer to see that is connected to where.


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 22, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> The two pins you mentioned are not connected inside the eMMC but the pins on the board could be connected to ground.
> So bridging them COULD cause issues in DAT0 touches them.
> We need to wait for a proper PCB delayer to see that is connected to where.


THAT could be a thing, yes!


----------



## sean222 (Oct 22, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> The two pins you mentioned are not connected inside the eMMC but the pins on the board could be connected to ground.
> So bridging them COULD cause issues in DAT0 touches them.
> We need to wait for a proper PCB delayer to see that is connected to where.


Didn't know this...Thanks!


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Oct 22, 2021)

In the end either we will need to remove, reball and reflow that chip, or some sort of thin PCB that can slide under will be needed. 

For those that can't do this type of thing, they will he paying $$$ for the installation alone.


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Oct 24, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> Layout pictures for SX Lite/HWFLY Lite
> View attachment 280838
> View attachment 280798
> View attachment 280835
> ...



For the 1.8v point it's using what was the RST point before


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 27, 2021)

Seems like no luck so far finidng an alternative point C  :'(


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 28, 2021)

So I was looking at the delayered images of the Switch Lite PCB here: http://balika011.hu/switch/lite/

If you remove the first layer, you get this view:


Spoiler










And if you remove 2 more layers you can see this:


Spoiler









So to me it seems, that the first layer, is connected to 19 points on the third layer.
If we translate these pins to the top layer, we can see which of these points are connected:



Spoiler









So I had a bit of free time and doodled a QSB, which is looks something like this:



Spoiler









The idea goes like this:

1) Remove the eMMC and clean it
2) Clean the Switch PCB
3) Solder the QSB to the 19 points on the Switch PCB
4) Use thin double sided tape and apply it to the Switch PCB
5) Flip over the eMMC, so the BGA points upwards and place it face down on the double sided tape
6) Bend the QSB over towards the BGA
7) Solder the QSB onto the BGA and restore the connection to the Switch PCB this way
8) Use exposed DAT0 to solder it to the modchip

So if you'd look at it from the side, it would look like this:



Spoiler









NOTE: The design has a few errors on the bottom part - I mirrored it incorrectly and the pin on the bottom needs to be rerouted to the corresponding pin on the BGA.
I just couldn't be assed to finish it 100% in Paint.net, but you should get the idea 

As I said, this is just me talking out of my ass, but should it be possible to create such a QSB, then I'm sure that this will be a lot easier to install.
Because reworking a BGA, even that small, is not as easy as it seems - but removing the eMMC, cleaning it and soldering 19-20 pins on both sides should be as hard/easy as soldering the SoC QSB.

What do you guys think?


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 28, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> So I was looking at the delayered images of the Switch Lite PCB here: http://balika011.hu/switch/lite/
> 
> If you remove the first layer, you get this view:
> 
> ...




What about all the other points on the PCB? 
Are they not connected to anything?


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 28, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> What about all the other points on the PCB?
> Are they not connected to anything?


If you look here: http://balika011.hu/switch/lite/
You can see that the second layer is mostly ground in this area - at least it looks like it, because the guy who made this delayering, polished a bit too much there:


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 28, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> If you look here: http://balika011.hu/switch/lite/
> You can see that the second layer is mostly ground.


wow  thats amazing layered images of the board


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 28, 2021)

Video of Card N All Gaming Resale and Repair using sx lite on the OLED


----------



## grubgrub (Oct 28, 2021)

I guess there is always the option to just buy a modded OLED


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 28, 2021)

I just saw that the iPhone scene already did what I proposed above.
This has to be the way for people who cant'/don't want to reball.
This method is way safer then the current implementation.


----------



## mvmiranda (Oct 28, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> I just saw that the iPhone scene already did what I proposed above.
> This has to be the way for people who cant'/don't want to reball.
> This method is way safer then the current implementation.


Riiight!
So, expect it Soon™.

Honestly I was considering your proposal kind of "otherworldly" and then you come and BAM show me something similar already done. 

Nice!


----------



## FR0ZN (Oct 28, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Riiight!
> So, expect it Soon™.
> 
> Honestly I was considering your proposal kind of "otherworldly" and then you come and BAM show me something similar already done.
> ...


It's not as otherwordly as reworking the BGA while fiddling a cable in there 

I also just noticed that they can grab all other signals from there as well (CLK, CMD, etc.)

So this way the install could consist of 2 QSBs just like the Lite + is cleaner + safer.
I realy hope they do it this way.


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 2, 2021)

@FR0ZN, any good news? Seems no such cable anybody used for oled switch.
Hope someone have a try and success!


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 2, 2021)

vailon_yg said:


> @FR0ZN, any good news? Seems no such cable anybody used for oled switch.
> Hope someone have a try and success!


I haven't looked further into this.
As I said, I never made any PCB designes myself - what I showed was just me doodleing something together 

I myself am currently putting my hopes into whoever is building the HWFLY modchips, to create a redesign for the OLEDs and adapt the eMMC flex cable method.

Slaughtering a Core or Lite modchip into the OLED is "dirty" imo.


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 2, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> I haven't looked further into this.
> As I said, I never made any PCB designes myself - what I showed was just me doodleing something together
> 
> I myself am currently putting my hopes into whoever is building the HWFLY modchips, to create a redesign for the OLEDs and adapt the eMMC flex cable method.
> ...


That's a good idea~~


----------



## agpixel (Nov 4, 2021)

I'm also waiting for this ^^


----------



## evil_santa (Nov 4, 2021)

found that on Facebook


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 4, 2021)

evil_santa said:


> found that on Facebook


The one million question is: where to buy?
LOL


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Nov 4, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> The one million question is: where to buy?
> LOL


Prolly be ready soon.


----------



## evil_santa (Nov 4, 2021)

he had posted the schematics on GitHub, but I was too slow and couldn't save them before it was deleted.


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 4, 2021)

I wonder how good the connection to the BGA is.


----------



## izy (Nov 5, 2021)

https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/D0_adapter_for_BGA153.html


----------



## izy (Nov 5, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> I wonder how good the connection to the BGA is.


well its soldered so its solid
you just tin the pcb  slot it under and heat the bga with hot air


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

squee666 said:


> https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/D0_adapter_for_BGA153.html


Can I already order it??!
Bless your soul!


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 5, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Can I already order it??!
> Bless your soul!


What's the price of it?


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> What's the price of it?


it depends on the amount you select.
50 pieces are coming to me around 105 USD + shipping.



squee666 said:


> https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/D0_adapter_for_BGA153.html


I cannot select Finished Copper at 1 oz Cu(35µm) :/
do you happen to know why? LOL

EDIT: according to the PCBWay support we cannot select 1 oz Cu(35µm) at 0.1 thickness. It'll need to be 0.13...
At 0.1 it'll only be 0.5 oz Cu(18µm).
Any thoughts on that?


----------



## gokuz (Nov 5, 2021)

squee666 said:


> https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/D0_adapter_for_BGA153.html


Possible to make *14* half holes and only the 3rd point with copper?

If its possible, you don't need to solder at all.


----------



## impeeza (Nov 5, 2021)

Deleted member 550701 said:


> Well are the modchips dead?


Nop, you only need to desolder the eMMC from the board


zal16 said:


> where is placed the eMMC?


directly soldered to Main board.


CompSciOrBust said:


> Emmc was soldered to the board on the lite, all we need to do is figure out the read and write pads. Worst case scenario is desoldering the nand, modifying it, then reballing it. Whether or not glitching works is another question.


The test points are already avalaible on the net, there is one which by now need you remove the eMMC chip and solder a cable directly to one soldering point and then resolder the eMMC chip  Thrilling adventure.

Or use a very very thin cable a a lot of aiming, or the adaptor explaned before.   Big N hide the test point but like the life, it will be find the way


----------



## slslasher (Nov 5, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> it depends on the amount you select.
> 50 pieces are coming to me around 105 USD + shipping.
> 
> 
> ...


do you have a screenshots of the settings to choose at pcbway?


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

slslasher said:


> do you have a screenshots of the settings to choose at pcbway?


Open the link @squee666 posted above and scroll the page down to the description section.
You'll see the proposed settings.

I could not select the Finished Copper at 1 oz Cu(35µm) and taking to the PCBWay support I learned I cannot have thickness at 0.1 and finished copper at 1 oz Cu(35µm) on the same board.
It has to be either thickness at 0.13 and finished copper at 1 oz Cu(35µm) or thickness at 0.1 and finished copper at 0.5 oz Cu(18µm).

@squee666, do you have any comments on this?

Thanks!


----------



## slslasher (Nov 5, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> it depends on the amount you select.
> 50 pieces are coming to me around 105 USD + shipping.
> 
> 
> ...





mvmiranda said:


> Open the link @squee666 posted above and scroll the page down to the description section.
> You'll see the proposed settings.
> 
> I could not select the Finished Copper at 1 oz Cu(35µm) and taking to the PCBWay support I learned I cannot have thickness at 0.1 and finished copper at 1 oz Cu(35µm) on the same board.
> ...


I did but not sure if this is correct. There is only 0.2mm for thickness, and 6/6mil  for min tracking/space.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

slslasher said:


> I did but not sure if this is correct. There is only 0.2mm for thickness, and 6/6mil  for min tracking/space.
> 
> View attachment 283333


You're at the wrong place.
You should select "FPC/Rigid-Flex". But you'll end up in the same situation as I am: unable to select the proposed Finished Copper setting.

Cheers!


----------



## slslasher (Nov 5, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> You're at the wrong place.
> You should select "FPC/Rigid-Flex". But you'll end up in the same situation as I am: unable to select the proposed Finished Copper setting.
> 
> Cheers!


ah i see, thanks. btw aim i supposed to select flexible pcb for the pcb type? I could select 0.1 fpc thickness and 0.1 oz cu


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

slslasher said:


> ah i see, thanks. btw aim i supposed to select flexible pcb for the pcb type? I could select 0.1 fpc thickness and 0.1 oz cu
> 
> View attachment 283334


What the heck!
I spent almost 1 hour yesterday with a PCBWay Support engineer who told me I cannot have this setting 

Lemme try again!


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

slslasher said:


> ah i see, thanks. btw aim i supposed to select flexible pcb for the pcb type? I could select 0.1 fpc thickness and 0.1 oz cu
> 
> View attachment 283334


What sorcery did you do?
I still cannot select it!

My settings are 100% the same as yours, except the layers since the hint box is in front of it.

EDIT: right! Select 2 layers and you'll see!


----------



## slslasher (Nov 5, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> What sorcery did you do?
> I still cannot select it!
> 
> My settings are 100% the same as yours, except the layers since the hint box is in front of it.
> ...


ah crap, u are right. i forgot to select 2 layers. dam, is 0.13 that far off hahahaha


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

slslasher said:


> ah crap, u are right. i forgot to select 2 layers. dam, is 0.13 that far off hahahaha


Well, given the tight fit we're at, I dunno.
I don't have an OLED for now to try it so I was *hoping* @squee666, @FR0ZN or @iolo57  would now...


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 5, 2021)

Nah I have no rush here.
As much as I appreciate the community talking matters in their own hands, I will keep waiting for HWFLY to release a version of their modchip for OLED models.
I don't want to butcher a Core/Lite modchip in there.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Nah I have no rush here.
> As much as I appreciate the community talking matters in their own hands, I will keep waiting for HWFLY to release a version of their modchip for OLED models.
> I don't want to butcher a Core/Lite modchip in there.


Fair enough, mate!


----------



## izy (Nov 5, 2021)

Just saying the previous link lets you download the schematic and  lget them from your preferred PCB manufacturer probably cheaper


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 5, 2021)

squee666 said:


> Just saying the previous link lets you download the schematic and  lget them from your preferred PCB manufacturer probably cheaper


Nice!
Any words on the thickness and finished copper thing I said some posts back?


----------



## CompSciOrBust (Nov 5, 2021)

impeeza said:


> Nop, you only need to desolder the eMMC from the board
> 
> directly soldered to Main board.
> 
> ...


I don't think the pads were known when I made the comment. Fwiw you can use this to avoid reballing the nand https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/D0_adapter_for_BGA153.html


----------



## izy (Nov 5, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Nah I have no rush here.
> As much as I appreciate the community talking matters in their own hands, I will keep waiting for HWFLY to release a version of their modchip for OLED models.
> I don't want to butcher a Core/Lite modchip in there.


I mean you realise the hwlite is just a copy of the core/lite with a none flashable memory


They ain't releasing anything.


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 5, 2021)

squee666 said:


> I mean you realise the hwlite is just a copy of the core/lite with a none flashable memory
> 
> 
> They ain't releasing anything.


I wouldn't be sooooooooooo sure about that.
The very first units had faults that the genuine TX modchips never had.

Revision 1 for example didn't had Erista support - unlike the TX chips.

Revision 2 (and 1) had an update issue, where you had to reset the modchips config whenever you updated your Switch via the Nintendo servers - unlike the TX chips, but the Erisa support was introduced.

Revision 3 fixed the update bug and they even updated the PCB for the HWFLY lite - or at least made adjustments to it so it doesn't cause shorts on the PCB.

I can't proof anything, I can't even proof if someone other than the remaining unknwon members of TX are behind HWFLY.
But I know for sure, that they are not just "copies". They launched as infirior products to the original and the team behind it, is skilled enough to fix whatever was wrong with HWFLY in hardware as well as software.

So I wouldn't give up hope that a new revision specifically or OLED is in the works.
If not - then that's ok as well but it's too soon to be sure that nothing is coming, I'd give it a few months.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Nov 5, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> I wouldn't be sooooooooooo sure about that.
> The very first units had faults that the genuine TX modchips never had.
> 
> Revision 1 for example didn't had Erista support - unlike the TX chips.
> ...


It is TX behind HWFLY (Gotta catch them all) and sometimes they send you real ones


----------



## izy (Nov 5, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> I wouldn't be sooooooooooo sure about that.
> The very first units had faults that the genuine TX modchips never had.
> 
> Revision 1 for example didn't had Erista support - unlike the TX chips.
> ...


They don't even make the software they literally rub spacecraft which is opensource.

All they did was cheap out on the hardware which btw the schematics for the original chip are online and you can actually buy them for a highish price

So all they did was copy a chip that was already designed and made and had a schematic. Cheap out on the components and also use an opensource firmware then lock out the chips ability to flash firmware

Which fyi means hwfly have worse support since spacecraft added better support for oleds

Also hwfly cores have a bug where they don't work on oled without disconnecting dat0/constant rebooting which was a minor issue with original chips and switchs but got fixed during beta tests.

Issue doesn't happen to hwfly lites or og chips

But either way point stands they not really making a chip they just copying the original design chip adding shitty components using someone's firmware designed for og chips.

Then just fixing the shitty bugs they caused from cheaping out


----------



## gelderm (Nov 6, 2021)

squee666 said:


> https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/D0_adapter_for_BGA153.html


item deleted


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Nov 6, 2021)

Not only do we need a solution for the oled, I like the one where having something similar to the iPhone image, but we also need cheaper chips, $160USD for an hwfly is ridiculous.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 7, 2021)

gelderm said:


> item deleted


I can still access the link and download the file.
Is it back on? Furthermore, was it changed?
Thx!


----------



## mike4001 (Nov 7, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I can still access the link and download the file.
> Is it back on? Furthermore, was it changed?
> Thx!



It was indeed gone when this post was written, but it seems to be back now.


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 8, 2021)

mike4001 said:


> It was indeed gone when this post was written, but it seems to be back now.


Can some one confirm this adapter for DAT0 is working? Should the adapter fixed with hot glue or something else?


----------



## slslasher (Nov 8, 2021)

There is an issue with the file with pcbway.







gregor4711 said:


> Can some one confirm this adapter for DAT0 is working? Should the adapter fixed with hot glue or something else?


u r supposed to tin the connector, align it, then reflow it.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Nov 8, 2021)

If anyone is getting those pcbs linked on pcbway or know a place I can purchase one send me a link please.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 8, 2021)

mike4001 said:


> It was indeed gone when this post was written, but it seems to be back now.


I was about to order mine again on PCBWay but I still cannot select the Finish on (35um).



slslasher said:


> There is an issue with the file with pcbway.
> 
> View attachment 283755
> 
> u r supposed to tin the connector, align it, then reflow it.


Did you submit your order again after the gerber was changed?
I did on the very same day this came out and got this error. Then the gerber was taken out by the creator and resubmitted once again. This new file is way different than the original.


----------



## slslasher (Nov 8, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I was about to order mine again on PCBWay but I still cannot select the Finish on (35um).
> 
> 
> Did you submit your order again after the gerber was changed?
> I did on the very same day this came out and got this error. Then the gerber was taken out by the creator and resubmitted once again. This new file is way different than the original.


ah i did not, let me try. 0.13mm for fpc thickness?


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 8, 2021)

slslasher said:


> ah i did not, let me try. 0.13mm for fpc thickness?


I also don't know whether 1.3mm would be too much to fit.
Try sticking to 0.1mm!


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 9, 2021)

Just did it with no reballing, nor pcbway adapter  heck, I didn't even reflow it cause it was getting late and gotta go to work 

Btw, I don't think the extra 0.03mm matters


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 9, 2021)

So how did you do it without anything?


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 9, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> Just did it with no reballing, nor pcbway adapter  heck, I didn't even reflow it cause it was getting late and gotta go to work
> 
> Btw, I don't think the extra 0.03mm matters
> 
> View attachment 283914


How exactly did you do?
Try and error fitting a wire roughly in the position?
I have some questions:
1) what would happen if you short pin 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 while fitting the wire?
2) how did you "measure" or know you touched the right ball? Like on the X360 Post Fix if you measure it to GND it would give you a reading or about 500-520Ohms and you'd know it's right. 
3) How? Just how? LOL

Congrats man!


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 9, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> How exactly did you do?
> Try and error fitting a wire roughly in the position?
> I have some questions:
> 1) what would happen if you short pin 2 and 3 or 3 and 4 while fitting the wire?
> ...


I did try the wire thing at first, but then I found an easier method that I am not disclosing until I run out of stock 

But yeah, I did test some of the things you ask that might be handy. So to try to do this, first I did remove one BGA 153 NAND, but from an old v1 switch that I had for parts, that way it was easier to measure things that would fit and touch the right thing.

Having those rough measurements, I tried to test in diode mode: pins 1 and 2 are n/c, 3/4/and I think 5 as well (maybe all of them) reads ~442.

To answer your number 1: I'm not sure. I'm pretty sure I did short some of the pins, maybe 2 and 3, or 3 and 4, because a couple of times I had a blinking blue light, then solid red, and I got wrong readings (like ~880) so I knew something was touching smth else, but the good news is, it still booted normally after connecting it the right way. Your mileage may vary tho.

3) I've been trialing and erroring for like 12 hours straight, I'm brain dead right now.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 9, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> I did try the wire thing at first, but then I found an easier method that I am not disclosing until I run out of stock
> 
> But yeah, I did test some of the things you ask that might be handy. So to try to do this, first I did remove one BGA 153 NAND, but from an old v1 switch that I had for parts, that way it was easier to measure things that would fit and touch the right thing.
> 
> ...


Fair enough for your very first line and I won't judge you! Honestly! 

The measures stayed the same after you use your method with a successful boot into hekate? I mean, with the eMMC in place the good measure still reads around 442?

Congratulations for your findings!


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 9, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Fair enough for your very first line and I won't judge you! Honestly!
> 
> The measures stayed the same after you use your method with a successful boot into hekate? I mean, with the eMMC in place the good measure still reads around 442?
> 
> Congratulations for your findings!


Yep, around that value


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 9, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> Just did it with no reballing, nor pcbway adapter  heck, I didn't even reflow it cause it was getting late and gotta go to work
> 
> Btw, I don't think the extra 0.03mm matters
> 
> View attachment 283914


Could u share the info how to connect eMMC points? Thx!


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 9, 2021)

vailon_yg said:


> Could u share the info how to connect eMMC points? Thx!


Not for now


----------



## zal16 (Nov 9, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> I did try the wire thing at first, but then I found an easier method that I am not disclosing until I run out of stock
> 
> But yeah, I did test some of the things you ask that might be handy. So to try to do this, first I did remove one BGA 153 NAND, but from an old v1 switch that I had for parts, that way it was easier to measure things that would fit and touch the right thing.
> 
> ...


3 are DAT0
4 are DAT 1 and
5 are DAT 2

These pins reads 442 because all of then is Data lines


----------



## zal16 (Nov 9, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> Not for now


Why?


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 9, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> Not for now


Which chip did you use?  Was your process much easier than removing the chip or using that adaptor?


----------



## zal16 (Nov 9, 2021)

Perhaps a blank sheet of paper cut to the exact measurements of the eMMC, crossed out with a graphite pencil, where this graphite line touches the ball of the Dat0. Could this work?


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 9, 2021)

zal16 said:


> 3 are DAT0
> 4 are DAT 1 and
> 5 are DAT 2
> 
> These pins reads 442 because all of then is Data lines


Makes sense, however, couldn't find this info online and had to take my own measurements


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 9, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Which chip did you use?  Was your process much easier than removing the chip or using that adaptor?


Sx lite, and yup, my method was easier, but I don't think it is waaay easier than using an adapter like the pcbway one.

I just didn't want to wait until you guys decide if it is 0.1 or 0.13mm with how many copper micrometers. I was losing it. And then having it shipped here would take until 2022


----------



## Horizoncrosser (Nov 9, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> So how did you do it without anything?


I dont get how he could have done it. I got my OLED done yesterday with an SX lite chip and the reballling was time consuming but it was all worth it .


----------



## mattyv (Nov 9, 2021)

Can a SX Core chip be used, or is there something specific to the lite that is required for the OLED mod?


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 9, 2021)

mattyv said:


> Can a SX Core chip be used, or is there something specific to the lite that is required for the OLED mod?


Both chips from both "manufacturers" can be used and the pinout for them were already shared 
Cheers!


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 9, 2021)

Horizoncrosser said:


> I dont get how he could have done it. I got my OLED done yesterday with an SX lite chip and the reballling was time consuming but it was all worth it .


With a lot of patience and willingness to do it (and also risk it), without having to wait until Dec/Jan for the stencil I ordered.


----------



## izy (Nov 9, 2021)




----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 9, 2021)

squee666 said:


>


Awesome!

Just bought mine today.
It will take some time until it arrives tough :/


----------



## mattyv (Nov 9, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Awesome!
> 
> Just bought mine today.
> It will take some time until it arrives tough :/


What were the PCB specs you used on the cart checkout? I know there are a few specs in the project description, but there looks to be more/different options in the cart. Sorry, but never ordered these before.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Nov 9, 2021)

Might have a possible OLED failed reball repair coming in.  Gonna make a video on it depending on the damage.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 9, 2021)

mattyv said:


> What were the PCB specs you used on the cart checkout? I know there are a few specs in the project description, but there looks to be more/different options in the cart. Sorry, but never ordered these before.


Exactly the one proposed by the creator.
He changed the gerber a third time and acknowledged we can use 0.5oz Cu (18um).
That's the one I selected this time.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 10, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Exactly the one proposed by the creator.
> He changed the gerber a third time and acknowledged we can use 0.5oz Cu (18um).
> That's the one I selected this time.



What's is the cost of the PCB adaptor including shipping?


----------



## mattyv (Nov 10, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> What's is the cost of the PCB adaptor including shipping?


I am in the US and with shipping it was around $100. I only need 1 or 2, but the price was the same if I entered 5 or 500.
If anyone in the US is looking to do a group buy or will have a few extra, lmk.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 10, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> What's is the cost of the PCB adaptor including shipping?


I'm in Brazil and the shipping was 12 USD.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 10, 2021)

mattyv said:


> I am in the US and with shipping it was around $100. I only need 1 or 2, but the price was the same if I entered 5 or 500.
> If anyone in the US is looking to do a group buy or will have a few extra, lmk.



Is the minimum quantity 5?
I cant seem to select fewer


----------



## mattyv (Nov 10, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Is the minimum quantity 5?
> I cant seem to select fewer


I think so. Play around with the quantity to see if the cost changes much.


----------



## lufeig (Nov 10, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I'm in Brazil and the shipping was 12 USD.


i'm in brazil too, sao paulo.

i am currently waiting for a microscope, solder paste and hwfly lite to arrive. i've purchased those just to install the modchip on my oled.

would you sell me a unit of the qsb you ordered?


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 10, 2021)

lufeig said:


> i'm in brazil too, sao paulo.
> 
> i am currently waiting for a microscope, solder paste and hwfly lite to arrive. i've purchased those just to install the modchip on my oled.
> 
> would you sell me a unit of the qsb you ordered?


Sure!
Where did you get your OLED?
I'll open a conversation with you


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 10, 2021)

While both chips Lite and Core work, which fits better and which is the “easier” install?

also...

How does one actually install that Adaptor?  Do you slot the adaptor under the chip and heat the chip?  Do you tin the little contact sticking out of the adaptor?


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 10, 2021)

Duplicate post


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 10, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> While both chips Lite and Core work, which fits better and which is the “easier” install?
> 
> also...
> 
> How does one actually install that Adaptor?  Do you slot the adaptor under the chip and heat the chip?  Do you tin the little contact sticking out of the adaptor?


Well, IMO using a Lite leaves a cleaner install because of the chip profile, which is smaller them a Core.

Yes! You slide it under the chip. Although tinning it would not be needed I think it would be better to and then do a small reflow just to make sure there's a solid connection between the ball and the adapter.
Of course you'd measure it first, after sliding it in, just to make sure everything is OK before reflowing the eMMC.

This is how I'd do it, of course!

Cheers!


----------



## lufeig (Nov 10, 2021)

If you consider the modchip clones only, there are reports of some Hwfly core incompatibility, requiring DAT0 disconnection/reconnection when installed on a Switch OLED 

So Hwfly lite would be the recommended one currently.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 10, 2021)

lufeig said:


> If you consider the modchip clones only, there are reports of some Hwfly core incompatibility, requiring DAT0 disconnection/reconnection when installed on a Switch OLED
> 
> So Hwfly lite would be the recommended one currently.


There's that, as well. LOL


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 11, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> Sx lite, and yup, my method was easier, but I don't think it is waaay easier than using an adapter like the pcbway one.
> 
> I just didn't want to wait until you guys decide if it is 0.1 or 0.13mm with how many copper micrometers. I was losing it. And then having it shipped here would take until 2022


Will you share with us how you've done it? Or atleast where did you get the infomation? 

There was a guy told that he could mod the Oled without removing emmc nor using pcb adapter.

So I think there must be a source that we may have missed.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 11, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> Will you share with us how you've done it? Or atleast where did you get the infomation?
> 
> There was a guy told that he could mod the Oled without removing emmc nor using pcb adapter.
> 
> So I think there must be a source that we may have missed.


Sthetix, a Youtuber, posted on his Twitter how he modded his OLED.
He used a SATA connector pin cut to length.
He even showed a small video and picture of his installation.
Soon he'll upload a new video, I believe.


----------



## hippy dave (Nov 11, 2021)

If anyone from the UK (or maybe Europe) is buying a batch of those adapters, let me know how much it'd be for one.


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 11, 2021)

hippy dave said:


> If anyone from the UK (or maybe Europe) is buying a batch of those adapters, let me know how much it'd be for one.


I'm in also. TXS


----------



## susi91 (Nov 11, 2021)




----------



## lufeig (Nov 11, 2021)

DAT0 ball is on the intersection of two “imaginary lines”: one aligned to the right border of the capacitor found on the bottom of this pic, another aligned to the border of the pad found on the right


----------



## Chimech0 (Nov 11, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> Will you share with us how you've done it? Or atleast where did you get the infomation?
> 
> There was a guy told that he could mod the Oled without removing emmc nor using pcb adapter.
> 
> So I think there must be a source that we may have missed.


I got the info from myself. I did use an adapter, didn't search for an alt point, just didn't use the pcbway one.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 11, 2021)

lufeig said:


> DAT0 ball is on the intersection of two “imaginary lines”: one aligned to the right border of the capacitor found on the bottom of this pic, another aligned to the border of the pad found on the right


It makes even more sense when you look at the board with the eMMC removed!


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 12, 2021)

Chimech0 said:


> I got the info from myself. I did use an adapter, didn't search for an alt point, just didn't use the pcbway one.


Can you share us the adapter you used? Was it DIY stuff?


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 13, 2021)

Already got a D0 adaptor from China online shop.
It's work as expected and perfect.


----------



## hippy dave (Nov 13, 2021)

vailon_yg said:


> Already got a D0 adaptor from China online shop.
> It's work as expected and perfect.
> View attachment 284492View attachment 284493View attachment 284494View attachment 284495


Which shop?


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 13, 2021)

hippy dave said:


> Which shop?


You can find it in below link:
m.tb.cn with /h.fhEKs0T

I‘m not sure I can post the site here or not...


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 13, 2021)

Where did you find your Lite chip?


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 13, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> Where did you find your Lite chip?


It was installed in my switch lite, and I just uninstall it and bought 2 new cables from online shop.


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 13, 2021)

vailon_yg said:


> It was installed in my switch lite, and I just uninstall it and bought 2 new cables from online shop.


I see. Tough move. The lite chip is hard to find nowadays...


----------



## susi91 (Nov 13, 2021)




----------



## peteruk (Nov 13, 2021)

susi91 said:


>




that's so frigging good man!


----------



## susi91 (Nov 13, 2021)

peteruk said:


> that's so frigging good man!


Yeah, that adapter is a blessing for OLED owners (while I prefer the v1 Switches) and the video is very good too (not from me).


----------



## yakuma (Nov 13, 2021)

whre can buy that fleksibke


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 13, 2021)

Shoot!
Mine will take an eternity to arrive here!


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 14, 2021)

Which modchip would you recommend?
The SX core or SX lite or th HWFLY versions?


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 14, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Which modchip would you recommend?
> The SX core or SX lite or th HWFLY versions?


Well, honestly HWFLY works "the same" as SX and, since getting a SX has becoming more and more difficult, to say the least, go for the HWFLY.
Now, as for Core or Lite, Lite for sure.
It has a smaller footprint and seems to work better, as we've seen some folks saying the Core has some "issues" with the DAT line having to be disconnected every boot or something like this.


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 14, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Well, honestly HWFLY works "the same" as SX and, since getting a SX has becoming more and more difficult, to say the least, go for the HWFLY.
> Now, as for Core or Lite, Lite for sure.
> It has a smaller footprint and seems to work better, as we've seen some folks saying the Core has some "issues" with the DAT line having to be disconnected every boot or something like this.


Sthelix confirmed that we don't have to. Just connect it permanently.


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 14, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> Sthelix confirmed that we don't have to. Just connect it permanently.


Where did he confirm this?


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 14, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Where did he confirm this?


On his twitter. He posted the schematics of core on Oled. I asked him myself.


----------



## HenryMin (Nov 14, 2021)

Just ordered mine too


----------



## izy (Nov 14, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> On his twitter. He posted the schematics of core on Oled. I asked him myself.


Well yeah connecting it permanently is a thing

The problem is the hwfly core is buggy glitching the oled
So dat0 needs disconnected sometimes it's an old glitch they fixed in the original sx prior to release.

Sx shouldn't have it and neither does hwfly lite because they the clone makers were cheaping out hard and the hwfly lite had issues that needed fix that original didn't have but they fixed their own cheapness.

Also hwfly uses spacecraft 1.0 and can't be flashed to a higher version so gl




Also don't listen to stethix he literally adlibs other people's info into shitty guides.

Other videos he's done which have magically disappeared include

How to dual boot sxos and atmosphere but the atmosphere boots to sysnand.
And a magical tweet / message to the spacecraft Dev because he decided to flash his sxcore a stupid amount of times with spacecraft bricking his chip.




Also you don't need to really cut away to fit the qsb to nand. It can flex and has to go deep.
If anything just remove the flat piece in corner


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 14, 2021)

Thanks for the info.
All of dealers from taobao, ali... they all suddenly hide or sold out all of lite chip. It sucks.

My friend talked 1 of dealer in ali, they said their products already sold out but on the shopping page still available. So I think they keep it from everyone and will sell in near future with higher price.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 14, 2021)

squee666 said:


> Also hwfly uses spacecraft 1.0 and can't be flashed to a higher version so gl




As the SX versions can be flashed, would you say its better to get the SX core over the HWLY lite. (The SX Lite seems to be sold out on aliexpress - should have bought it last week).


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 14, 2021)

is HWLY lite usable for Switch OLED? can it be reflashed?


----------



## Kallrkyle (Nov 14, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> is HWLY lite usable for Switch OLED? can it be reflashed?


Try using 2 min to read some of the answer that already have been postet inhere, then you will know


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 14, 2021)

I'm new in this stuff. there are HWLy Core/Light SX Core / Light blabla.... Thats confusing me.
Therefore my question. May there was a time you also a beginner?


----------



## HenryMin (Nov 14, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> is HWLY lite usable for Switch OLED? can it be reflashed?


Spacecraft 1.0 can boot payloads on OLED model, but the developer of spacecraft said it's not recommended.
Anyway you can use hwfly lite for OLED.


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 14, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> Spacecraft 1.0 can boot payloads on OLED model, but the developer of spacecraft said it's not recommended.
> Anyway you can use hwfly lite for OLED.


Thanks & aprechiated


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 14, 2021)

Ok i caved and bought the SX core as there was only 2 left in stock.

I had a question regarding the installation,

As the SX core is larger than the SX lite, do we have to cut the back plate to fit it in?


----------



## gokuz (Nov 14, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Ok i caved and bought the SX core as there was only 2 left in stock.
> 
> I had a question regarding the installation,
> 
> As the SX core is larger than the SX lite, do we have to cut the back plate to fit it in?


Big mistake, cancel the order and get the lite.

You need to disconnect dat0 every single time you boot if you're using sx core. Yea, you heard that right, disconnect the wire physically.


----------



## zal16 (Nov 14, 2021)

The original SX core with modified boot.dat (chainloader to hekate) works with Switch OLED?


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Nov 14, 2021)

zal16 said:


> The original SX core with modified boot.dat (chainloader to hekate) works with Switch OLED?


All cores work
All Lites work

Some core clones need Dat0 reset.

Get lite and dont have to worry about that.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 14, 2021)

gokuz said:


> Big mistake, cancel the order and get the lite.
> 
> You need to disconnect dat0 every single time you boot if you're using sx core. Yea, you heard that right, disconnect the wire physically.



Aww man, 
I though they fixed that in the sx core version, just the hwfly core has the issue?
But I also contacted the seller to see if he has the SX lite available.
I want to be able to flash the latest spacecraft as the hwfly lite cannot be updated.


----------



## Sali (Nov 15, 2021)

Guys my order failed on PCBway can someone help?
Failed reason:
The diameter of castellated holes should be greater than 0.5mm.;


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 15, 2021)

Shocked that these adaptors aren’t available as singles on Ali


----------



## mattyv (Nov 15, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Shocked that these adaptors aren’t available as singles on Ali


I was looking too. I also tried to order from OSHPark, but the size/dimensions are too small. It errors trying to submit an order. I emailed them about it, just haven't heard back yet.


----------



## hippy dave (Nov 15, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Shocked that these adaptors aren’t available as singles on Ali


Maybe they'll come soon, when someone gets a batch made, or maybe they'll hold on to them to bundle them with the modchips


----------



## slslasher (Nov 15, 2021)

Sali said:


> Guys my order failed on PCBway can someone help?
> Failed reason:
> The diameter of castellated holes should be greater than 0.5mm.;


this is my settings, mine is arriving in 2 days time by fedex. ordered last week.


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 16, 2021)

What are disadvantages about hwfly lite when using older spacecraft nx? 
I read the channel log and it said support just aula's oled screen. Does not say make things run smoother or more reliability.


----------



## HenryMin (Nov 16, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> What are disadvantages about hwfly lite when using older spacecraft nx?
> I read the channel log and it said support just aula's oled screen. Does not say make things run smoother or more reliability.



(It might be okay to use hwfly lite.)


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 17, 2021)




----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 17, 2021)

vailon_yg said:


> View attachment 285344View attachment 285345View attachment 285346View attachment 285347


Is this something YOU designed?
Do you mind shedding some more light on what this is?
If I got it right it's some sort of board that sits between the OLED board and the eMMC CI?


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 17, 2021)

Is this like a "sandwich" installation?


----------



## doom95 (Nov 17, 2021)

Another nice idea and certainly very cheap to produce. Would this sit flat on the board, do we place balls underneath, should it be stenciled or can the adapter even be soldered from the top? If the pads have vias the latter might work, but given their small diameter it'll be hard to properly flow the solder since heat transfer is difficult.


----------



## doom95 (Nov 17, 2021)

vailon_yg said:


> View attachment 285347


The voltage buffer board on the APU seems to be mounted upside down, is that okay?


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 18, 2021)

How are people installing the SX core in the switch?
This is the only photo i could find of an actual installation.
I wanted to make sure the fan will be ok and the metal back can be installed  again










View attachment OLED-DIAGRAM-SX-CORE.jpg


----------



## sean222 (Nov 18, 2021)

PCBWay approved my order with the correct specs that you all have, except the only thing they changed was the dimensions to 13x5.4mm...if it doesn't fit I'll be pissed, but 3 extra millimeters length-wise seems ok as there is still a bit of clearance room. Should arrive Monday! My HWFLY Lite is coming tomorrow. I have point A and D done, the rest 'should be' super easy relatively.


----------



## vailon_yg (Nov 19, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Is this something YOU designed?
> Do you mind shedding some more light on what this is?
> If I got it right it's some sort of board that sits between the OLED board and the eMMC CI?


No, you can find it here: https://www.91wii.com/thread-269924-1-1.html


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 19, 2021)

sean222 said:


> PCBWay approved my order with the correct specs that you all have, except the only thing they changed was the dimensions to 13x5.4mm...if it doesn't fit I'll be pissed, but 3 extra millimeters length-wise seems ok as there is still a bit of clearance room. Should arrive Monday! My HWFLY Lite is coming tomorrow. I have point A and D done, the rest 'should be' super easy relatively.


Is that a solder mask or green glue?


----------



## sean222 (Nov 19, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> Is that a solder mask or green glue?



Solder mask... Just learned about it! I have the UV light that came with a Whitestone dome screen protector years ago which I used to cure it 

https://www.amazon.ca/Solder-Resist...637295619&sprefix=solder+mask,aps,135&sr=8-11


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 19, 2021)

Anyone in Australia order any extra PCBway adapters for the OLED?

Please let me know, would be much appreaciated


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 19, 2021)

sean222 said:


> Solder mask... Just learned about it! I have the UV light that came with a Whitestone dome screen protector years ago which I used to cure it
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Solder-Resistant-Light-Green-Soldering/dp/B08TWFXQNQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=1LVRA3M9CLDXR&keywords=solder+mask&qid=1637295619&sprefix=solder+mask,aps,135&sr=8-11


It's a nice way to clean up your wires for sure. The cost of tools and parts is slowly rising.

$80 - good soldering station
$100 - no re-ball flex PCB solution
$160 - HWFLY chip
$30 - good enough multimeter
$100 - good enough microscope (optional, recommended)
$50 to ??? - misc (wires, flux, solder, etc)

Optional if you want to re-ball
$100 - STM based hot air station
$10 - stencil
$50 - solder paste


learning a new skill or re-learning a lost skill is priceless


----------



## evil_santa (Nov 19, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> It's a nice way to clean up your wires for sure. The cost of tools and parts is slowly rising.
> 
> $80 - good soldering station
> $100 - no re-ball flex PCB solution
> ...


do you have a microscope that you can recommend?
the solder paste is not that expensive. I use the Mechanic and I am very satisfied.


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 19, 2021)

evil_santa said:


> do you have a microscope that you can recommend?
> the solder paste is not that expensive. I use the Mechanic and I am very satisfied.


no. I have no prior knowledge of using a microscope for SMD work but I believe some digital ones sold on Amazon for around 40 should work fine but require you to attach to a monitor or PC. Having a way to verify your joints is needed.


----------



## lufeig (Nov 19, 2021)

evil_santa said:


> do you have a microscope that you can recommend?
> the solder paste is not that expensive. I use the Mechanic and I am very satisfied.


I got a cheapo generic Chinese digital microscope model DM4, IMHO it’s good enough for this work.


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 19, 2021)

lufeig said:


> I got a cheapo generic Chinese digital microscope model DM4, IMHO it’s good enough for this work.


How much did it cost? I was looking around Amazon and Banggood but similar items cost about $100 or more.


----------



## lufeig (Nov 19, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> How much did it cost? I was looking around Amazon and Banggood but similar items cost about $100 or more.


I bought it in Brazil for around US$ 60.00, but I’m sure it’s cheaper on AliExpress, maybe 40.00

Just search for microscope dm4 there.

Have in mind that it’s not perfect, but imho it’s good enough for my amateur sporadic use.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 22, 2021)

SX Lite on OLED Installation Video!!


----------



## lufeig (Nov 22, 2021)

Mr @mvmiranda repaired and installed an Hwfly Lite on my Switch OLED too.

Repair service and mod work at its finest directly from São Paulo, Brazil!


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 22, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Anyone in Australia order any extra PCBway adapters for the OLED?
> 
> Please let me know, would be much appreaciated


Hi Grubgrub

I have some spare parts DAT0 left. Please PM me if any interest.

fair price per pice + registeres international Mail (= 5,50 Euro)

1-4 = 15 Euro per piece
5-10 =  12 Euro per piece
10 - = 10 Euro per piece


----------



## mattyv (Nov 22, 2021)

Anyone in the US have any extra, or info on the best place to order?


----------



## firefly360 (Nov 23, 2021)

mattyv said:


> Anyone in the US have any extra, or info on the best place to order?


Hello mattyv,
I have some dat0 adapter left, made by pcbway. They are now in China: 
1-3 : 15$ USD each piece
4-8: 12$ USD each
9-10: 10$ USD each

International shipment with tracking : 6$ USD

Please PM if interested


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 23, 2021)

So I've picked up most of the items and watched the install video a few times.  I'm usually pretty good at picking up new skills and I've soldered a bunch of times but nothing prepared me for how TINY everything is!  This is going to be a tough install....

Just waiting on my Align Me Board and Solder Mask....


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 23, 2021)

Yeah a microscope is recommended. You should have seen the balls on the emmc chip they look like tiny pin holes.


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 24, 2021)

Bad news - managed to solder all the wires to the motherboard and managed to solder most of the wires to the Lite Modchip but the soldering tip broke mid soldering the CPU 2 wire to the leg of the chip on the Modchip and I ended up bridging 3 legs and knocking off a resister somewhere.  DAMN!  Gotta buy a new modchip now


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 24, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> Yeah a microscope is recommended. You should have seen the balls on the emmc chip they look like tiny pin holes.



wow, everything looks so big in the video.
What kind of microscope do you recommend.
This will probably be the only micro solder that i  do


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 24, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Bad news - managed to solder all the wires to the motherboard and managed to solder most of the wires to the Lite Modchip but the soldering tip broke mid soldering the CPU 2 wire to the leg of the chip on the Modchip and I ended up bridging 3 legs and knocking off a resister somewhere.  DAMN!  Gotta buy a new modchip now



aww man you were almost finished as well, just bad luck at the end of the install


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 24, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> wow, everything looks so big in the video.
> What kind of microscope do you recommend.
> This will probably be the only micro solder that i  do


I'm pretty happy with this from Amazon (Germany)









I cut the 2 silver clams, to keep the motherboard plain. The stand is from my point of view a must to get clear picture.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 24, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> I'm pretty happy with this from Amazon (Germany)
> 
> 
> View attachment 286728
> ...



Thanks man, i was earlier thinking of cheaping out and getting this:

*

*

But will opt for this, more expensive but will be easier to work with


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 24, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Thanks man, i was earlier thinking of cheaping out and getting this:
> 
> *View attachment 286735*
> 
> ...


I have a similar one and admittedly it works very well but because it’s operating as a monocle you don’t have any depth perception so I found it tricky to work under it.


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 24, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> aww man you were almost finished as well, just bad luck at the end of the install


Yeah it was all going pretty smoothly and the tip of the soldering iron snapped off and I ruined the chip.  After this I don’t ever plan to do microsoldering again. 

Also,  I still don’t have my Align Me chip but I did everything else. Guess I have to wait for another modchip to arrive as well so I have to microsolder atleast once more


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 24, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Yeah it was all going pretty smoothly and the tip of the soldering iron snapped off and I ruined the chip.  After this I don’t ever plan to do microsoldering again.
> 
> Also,  I still don’t have my Align Me chip but I did everything else. Guess I have to wait for another modchip to arrive as well so I have to microsolder atleast once more


Can you salvage the chip?
Was it an SX or hwfly?

What is the Align Me Board?

How did you scrape away that one solder point after you cut the metal frame? (See pics  below)
I dont have a grinder pen










This is my cost for the materials for soldering:
Dont think i'll do any more soldering after this as well.


----------



## yakuma (Nov 24, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Can you salvage the chip?
> Was it an SX or hwfly?
> 
> What is the Align Me Board?
> ...


no need grider pen. just use sharp like knive


----------



## gregor4711 (Nov 24, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Thanks man, i was earlier thinking of cheaping out and getting this:


please buy with stand. Since the magnification is high (400 -1000 x), you are not able to hold it still. But with stand there are crystal clear pics.


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 24, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Can you salvage the chip?
> Was it an SX or hwfly?
> 
> What is the Align Me Board?
> ...


Pretty sure the chip is Fubar at this point.  I'm not skilled enough to remove the solder bridging the three legs and I have no idea where the SMD popped off from.








For the grinding spot, I used a Dremel with a tiny grinder tip on the lowest speed setting and it worked fine.  The solder point is TINY.  Definitely need the Solder Mask on that point afterwards.

Align Me board is the little Dat0 BGA adaptor PCB that gregor4711 has a few extra of.  Highly recommend contacting that guy.  Super responsive and quick and his price is super reasonable compared to buying 100 from PCBway.

I'm a little bummed to have ruined my Modchip but I've already started so there's no turning back!!  Just have to wait for another to arrive.  My bill of materials is rapidly increasing however lol


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 24, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Pretty sure the chip is Fubar at this point.  I'm not skilled enough to remove the solder bridging the three legs and I have no idea where the SMD popped off from.
> 
> View attachment 286776
> View attachment 286775
> ...




Aww, if the solder tip fell onto of the chip it may have been fine, but if fell on the corner!
This is how the chip suppose to look, you could try solder wick to mop up the solder from the legs, the only problem will be locating the resister.

I ordered a Dat0 adaptor from gregor earlier as well!


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 24, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Pretty sure the chip is Fubar at this point.  I'm not skilled enough to remove the solder bridging the three legs and I have no idea where the SMD popped off from.
> 
> View attachment 286776
> View attachment 286775
> ...


Hey!
I'm sorry you could not finish it but the chip is not ruined yet 
you could save it. it's just a matter of removing he bridges and repositioning the capacitor (that one knocked off is a capacitor).


----------



## Mulanzo (Nov 24, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Hey!
> I'm sorry you could not finish it but the chip is not ruined yet
> you could save it. it's just a matter of removing he bridges and repositioning the capacitor (that one knocked off is a capacitor).


OOOH!  I will try to salvage it.  Doesn't hurt to try.  Here's a closer look at the damage:

Blue Square - Where the tip landed.  The corner of the black chip is a little discoloured.  Is this a problem?
Red Square - Looks like the leg bent sideways.  Is it a problem to straighten once the bridge is removed with Solder Wick?
Yellow Square - Looks like a leg is missing?  Or bent into the solder glob....not sure this is fixable....
Green Square - Is this where the capacitor goes?  Does the orientation matter?  If the capacitor has prolonged exposure to the tip, would that ruin it?  I had to scrape the capacitor off the broken tip of the soldering iron.  

Thanks for the help!


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 24, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> OOOh…. How does one remove the solder bridge.  And where does that capacitor go?


You can use a solder pump, solder wick (also called solder braid) or even your soldering iron.
Use a good flux, put a small amount of solder in the tip, clean it off (you don't want to apply more solder, just make the tip ready to "suck" the solder excess) and quickly touch the bridged areas and pull the tip towards the "end" of the pins, almost as if you're sweeping the iron. DO it quickly, do not sit the iron to "melt" the tin.
Touch, Sweep and remove. In one movement.
The flux will help evenly spread the heat and the melted tin will be "sucked" by the iron tip. The surface tension of the melted tin will "pull" (or suck) the bridges out of the board to the iron tip.

Sounds too much but it's actually quite easy!

As for the capacitor, @grubgrub already posted a picture of what the areas should look like. It's like this:

Good luck!


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Nov 24, 2021)

firefly360 said:


> Hello mattyv,
> I have some dat0 adapter left, made by pcbway. They are now in China:
> 1-3 : 15$ USD each piece
> 4-8: 12$ USD each
> ...


Dont think i can pm you yet. Where are you getting these from?


----------



## firefly360 (Nov 24, 2021)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Dont think i can pm you yet. Where are you getting these from?


I ordered them on pcbway for my personal use.
Since the minimal price is 109$ with shipment, I ordered a few many. It's currently stored in a warehouse in China and ready for shipment.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Nov 25, 2021)

That lite chip is def salvage able.  If you cant find component someone can measure it for you perhaps.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 25, 2021)

Man, waited a few weeks for my sx core, but when it arrived today it was just the hwfly core :'(
Paid a premium for the sx version as well.
Will ask for a refund, hopefully I can get it back from aliexpress

Now its back to the internet to search for sx version


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 25, 2021)

Found a store that sells the sx lite
Unfortunately, the price is a bit much :'(


----------



## s3m80 (Nov 25, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Man, waited a few weeks for my sx core, but when it arrived today it was just the hwfly core :'(
> Paid a premium for the sx version as well.
> Will ask for a refund, hopefully I can get it back from aliexpress
> 
> Now its back to the internet to search for sx version


whats the diff? I use hwfly lite and it boots isntantly faster then sxcore


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 25, 2021)

s3m80 said:


> whats the diff? I use hwfly lite and it boots isntantly faster then sxcore


I heard that the hwfly cannot update to spacecraft nx version 2 and  that spacecraft nx version 1 is not good for the OLED switch


----------



## s3m80 (Nov 25, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> I heard that the hwfly cannot update to spacecraft nx version 2 and  that spacecraft nx version 1 is not good for the OLED switch


well hwlfy core is using ver 1 but I think the lite version using ver 2. I have no complain using it so fast booting into menu and almost never failed


----------



## dotmehdi (Nov 25, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> I heard that the hwfly cannot update to spacecraft nx version 2 and  that spacecraft nx version 1 is not good for the OLED switch



The update is only about the spacecraft minigame


----------



## bestpro74 (Nov 25, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> Hi Grubgrub
> 
> I have some spare parts DAT0 left. Please PM me if any interest.
> 
> ...


I did everything as you told me in the private message but I cannot write in private adequately,


----------



## doom95 (Nov 25, 2021)

I ordered 950 flex boards for $150 at pcbway (approved, manufacturing, don't have them yet) so that comes at less than 20 cents a piece. Not sure if I'd agree that a x75 markup for small quantities constitutes a "fair price". When mine arrive I'll dump most for probably €1 a piece.


----------



## bestpro74 (Nov 25, 2021)

doom95 said:


> I ordered 950 flex boards for $150 at pcbway (approved, manufacturing, don't have them yet) so that comes at less than 20 cents a piece. Not sure if I'd agree that a x75 markup for small quantities constitutes a "fair price". When mine arrive I'll dump most for probably €1 a piece.


At the moment I only took one then let's see how it fits


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 25, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Found a store that sells the sx lite
> Unfortunately, the price is a bit much :'(
> 
> View attachment 286853


Look for clone at taobao.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 25, 2021)

So, what about that bespoken DAT0 issue with HWFLY Core chips and the OLED. Is is true? I mean, do we need to disconnect DAT0 every time (or eventually) when booting the console?
Can anyone confirm or deny it? Is is an "urban legend"? LOL


I'm asking because my Lite stash is done and I've some Core laying around here and I still have 2 OLEDs to do. 

Also, I've seen someone posting how we should install Core.
Does anyone have this pic at hand?

Thanks!


----------



## lufeig (Nov 25, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> So, what about that bespoken DAT0 issue with HWFLY Core chips and the OLED. Is is true? I mean, do we need to disconnect DAT0 every time (or eventually) when booting the console?
> Can anyone confirm or deny it? Is is an "urban legend"? LOL
> 
> 
> ...


Is this what you’re looking for?


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 25, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> So, what about that bespoken DAT0 issue with HWFLY Core chips and the OLED. Is is true? I mean, do we need to disconnect DAT0 every time (or eventually) when booting the console?
> Can anyone confirm or deny it? Is is an "urban legend"? LOL
> 
> 
> ...


It was reported that the HWFLY core has the same issue as the first release SX core and that *some* users who have installed it on the OLED need to disconnect D0 every time they boot the device.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 25, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> It was reported that the HWFLY core has the same issue as the first release SX core and that *some* users who have installed it on the OLED need to disconnect D0 every time they boot the device.


So, it's almost like gambling?
You'll never know when you'll end up with one of those *some*? haha!


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 25, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> So, it's almost like gambling?
> You'll never know when you'll end up with one of those *some*? haha!


I could not confirm. I ordered the Lite chip. These kits are too expensive to experiment on.


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 25, 2021)

Anyone here from Canada? Just got a DHL SMS saying I need to pay $36 for import duties for the pcbway order. Crazy. How do they calculate $36 import duties for an order that cost only $109? Is the import duty at 30%+


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 25, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> Anyone here from Canada? Just got a DHL SMS saying I need to pay $36 for import duties for the pcbway order. Crazy. How do they calculate $36 import duties for an order that cost only $109? Is the import duty at 30%+


It could have been worse... you could have received a 70% duty import if you were from Brazil. LOL

I feel you! It seems completely random, right? Somethings here way more expensive and bigger pass fine where other are taxed. Who know what "criteria" they use, if any...


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 25, 2021)

I was shocked. But I need those PCBs so no choice.


----------



## izy (Nov 25, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> Hi Grubgrub
> 
> I have some spare parts DAT0 left. Please PM me if any interest.
> 
> ...


lmao until you realise how much it actually costs to make them thats a scam


----------



## lufeig (Nov 26, 2021)

Just in case anyone wants to see the status led of the modchip: cut and strip a small piece of an optical cable and redirect the light from the led.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 26, 2021)

lufeig said:


> Just in case anyone wants to see the status led of the modchip: cut and strip a small piece of an optical cable and redirect the light from the led.


That is, simply, awesome!


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 26, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> So, what about that bespoken DAT0 issue with HWFLY Core chips and the OLED. Is is true? I mean, do we need to disconnect DAT0 every time (or eventually) when booting the console?
> Can anyone confirm or deny it? Is is an "urban legend"? LOL
> 
> 
> ...


At my place, lots of seller/modder use core/clone core for their modding oled service. It ran without any issue. 

I say the person told us about dat0 connect issue with clone core, is bad luck. Maybe his clone was on bad batch production. Maybe his was v1 v2, not v3, even bad v3, the odd like 1%, I don't know.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 26, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> At my place, lots of seller/modder use core/clone core for their modding oled service. It ran without any issue.
> 
> I say the person told us about dat0 connect issue with clone core, is bad luck. Maybe his clone was on bad batch production. Maybe his was v1 v2, not v3, even bad v3, the odd like 1%, I don't know.


How does the core mod chip fit in the OLED, is there room to close the metal back panel?


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 26, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> How does the core mod chip fit in the OLED, is there room to close the metal back panel?


I don't know how they fit it in, they never show. But lite chip fits perfect.


----------



## s3m80 (Nov 26, 2021)

lufeig said:


> Just in case anyone wants to see the status led of the modchip: cut and strip a small piece of an optical cable and redirect the light from the led.


this is really nice mod very usefull


----------



## s3m80 (Nov 26, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> At my place, lots of seller/modder use core/clone core for their modding oled service. It ran without any issue.
> 
> I say the person told us about dat0 connect issue with clone core, is bad luck. Maybe his clone was on bad batch production. Maybe his was v1 v2, not v3, even bad v3, the odd like 1%, I don't know.


yes like I told earlier I also use hwfly and as long as I exprienced it boots faster and also never failed


----------



## evil_santa (Nov 26, 2021)

at Taobao you can now buy the adapter. is then significantly cheaper than having it made yourself.

https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/de...jkkrP5&id=661482566543&ns=1&abbucket=1#detail


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 26, 2021)

Got my align me flex pcbs. Now waiting for the hwfly to arrive. Here's a size comparison with my thumb.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 26, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> I don't know how they fit it in, they never show. But lite chip fits perfect.


I was considering cutting the Core "excess". Like so:


What do you guys think?
Of course the chip would be ruined, but at least I think it'd fit better.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Nov 26, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I was considering cutting the Core "excess". Like so:
> View attachment 287134
> 
> What do you guys think?
> Of course the chip would be ruined, but at least I think it'd fit better.


Cores are almost same size if not smaller footprint.  Im sure you can fit either in there nice and snuggly.  No need to cut the chip honestly.  In fact cut the alumi heat plate to acommadate the Core.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 26, 2021)

Donnie-Burger said:


> Cores are almost same size if not smaller footprint.  Im sure you can fit either in there nice and snuggly.  No need to cut the chip honestly.  In fact cut the alumi heat plate to acommadate the Core.


Right!
At least, if your OLED dies, god forbid  or if, for whatever reason you need to removed the chip to use in a V1 or V2, you'd still have a working one.

Someone posted this picture here in this thread some pages ago (I don't remember).


I'll try fitting the Cores like so.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 27, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I was considering cutting the Core "excess". Like so:
> View attachment 287134
> 
> What do you guys think?
> Of course the chip would be ruined, but at least I think it'd fit better.



I though about that but was not too sure if the wires in the top portion of the core are required to maintain connections


----------



## mattyv (Nov 27, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Right!
> At least, if your OLED dies, god forbid  or if, for whatever reason you need to removed the chip to use in a V1 or V2, you'd still have a working one.
> 
> Someone posted this picture here in this thread some pages ago (I don't remember).
> ...


I have an SX core laying around and was thinking it would be better to use that and be able to flash/upgrade Spacecraft. If you do try this, let us know your results. I am interested


----------



## sean222 (Nov 27, 2021)

I finally did it guys...couldn't have done it with the help of @sthetix on Twitter. His diagrams and videos were great. I don't have the tools to properly reflow the eMMC so I bought the DAT0 adapter off PCBWay. Originally got the SX Core and realized it was too big, possible, but was too much of a headache...so I threw that SX Core in my original V1 Switch just for fun. Picked up a HWFLY Lite for this. Fits beautfully. Got the red light on boot many times, had to completely disassemble and check all points with a mulitimeter and reflow/rewire a few points. Definitely the most difficult, time consuming, and expensive mod I've ever done, but it was worth it...fun, educational, and hella stressful 

Edit: If anyone in Canada needs the DAT0 adapter (only shipping within Canada, pay me via Paypal) then PM me.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 27, 2021)

sean222 said:


> I finally did it guys...couldn't have done it with the help of @sthetix on Twitter. His diagrams and videos were great. I don't have the tools to properly reflow the eMMC so I bought the DAT0 adapter off PCBWay. Originally got the SX Core and realized it was too big, possible, but was too much of a headache...so I threw that SX Core in my original V1 Switch just for fun. Picked up a HWFLY Lite for this. Fits beautfully. Got the red light on boot many times, had to completely disassemble and check all points with a mulitimeter and reflow/rewire a few points. Definitely the most difficult, time consuming, and expensive mod I've ever done, but it was worth it...fun, educational, and hella stressful
> 
> Edit: If anyone in Canada needs the DAT0 adapter (only shipping within Canada, pay me via Paypal) then PM me.


wow nice

Did you use a microscope?
Do you have much expereience with soldering/micro soldering before?
How hard was it to do the micro soldering?

I have soldering a few things here and there, no real experience with micro solder though.


----------



## Bonovox40 (Nov 27, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> Got my align me flex pcbs. Now waiting for the hwfly to arrive. Here's a size comparison with my thumb.


Where did you get it from? And without reballing it, how is the alignment wire attaching to the point under the Emmc? Just direct pressure?


----------



## sean222 (Nov 27, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> wow nice
> 
> Did you use a microscope?
> Do you have much expereience with soldering/micro soldering before?
> ...



No microscope. Not much soldering experience, last time I solder this much was a PS2 modchip, lol...feels like 20 years ago. Huge wires and giant solder points. 

I have good eyes and a steady hand. I bought a SMT soldering learning kit to learn microsoldeing. Was about $25, sooo worth it.

I just used my eyes to quicky tap each solder point after tinning and fluxing both ends to be soldered. I inspected with a small magnifying glass with LED. For points A and D cpu connector cable I used a head visor, pic attached.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 27, 2021)

Bonovox40 said:


> Where did you get it from? And without reballing it, how is the alignment wire attaching to the point under the Emmc? Just direct pressure?





gregor4711 said:


> Hi Grubgrub
> 
> I have some spare parts DAT0 left. Please PM me if any interest.
> 
> ...




Gregor is selling some Dat0 eMMC  adaptors (I  bought mine from him)
Also noticed them selling on Aliexpress as well now


----------



## lufeig (Nov 27, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Gregor is selling some Dat0 eMMC  adaptors (I  bought mine from him)
> Also noticed them selling on Aliexpress as well now


I’ve been searching for days on AliExpress and could never find them.

Would you mind posting the url? Or maybe the search keywords?

Thanks!!
———————
Edit: I found it! They even have a newer version which is allegedly better!

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMnvO2S


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 27, 2021)

lufeig said:


> I’ve been searching for days on AliExpress and could never find them.
> 
> Would you mind posting the url? Or maybe the search keywords?
> 
> ...



This is the one 1 found

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003464336079.html


----------



## Bonovox40 (Nov 27, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Gregor is selling some Dat0 eMMC  adaptors (I  bought mine from him)
> Also noticed them selling on Aliexpress as well now


Ok great. But how does the adapter actually stay in place? I see it slides under and touches the DAT0 point, but how do you make the adapter not slide off or shift if the switch gets bumped or moved around? 
I haven't seen any vids or completed pics w it installed.

Edit: found this but he doesn't show how it's staying in place:


----------



## lufeig (Nov 27, 2021)

Bonovox40 said:


> Ok great. But how does the adapter actually stay in place? I see it slides under and touches the DAT0 point, but how do you make the adapter not slide off or shift if the switch gets bumped or moved around?
> I haven't seen any vids or completed pics w it installed.
> 
> Edit: found this but he doesn't show how it's staying in place:



UV mask, silicon glue, super glue, hot glue… just pick one.


----------



## Mena (Nov 27, 2021)

lufeig said:


> UV mask, silicon glue, super glue, hot glue… just pick one.


UV Mask is what I would use.


----------



## kerelenko (Nov 27, 2021)

Bonovox40 said:


> Where did you get it from? And without reballing it, how is the alignment wire attaching to the point under the Emmc? Just direct pressure?


Order from PCBWAY. It's just friction.


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 27, 2021)

Bonovox40 said:


> Ok great. But how does the adapter actually stay in place? I see it slides under and touches the DAT0 point, but how do you make the adapter not slide off or shift if the switch gets bumped or moved around?
> I haven't seen any vids or completed pics w it installed.


 
Watch this:
https://t.co/Uv6mwPsC7O?amp=1


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 27, 2021)

Bonovox40 said:


> Ok great. But how does the adapter actually stay in place? I see it slides under and touches the DAT0 point, but how do you make the adapter not slide off or shift if the switch gets bumped or moved around?
> I haven't seen any vids or completed pics w it installed.
> 
> Edit: found this but he doesn't show how it's staying in place:




sthetix uses UV solder mask in his video


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 27, 2021)

I must be lucky since this is hard to get and find nowadays.
1 is brand new, 1 is tested on Lite.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 28, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> I must be lucky since this is hard to get and find nowadays.
> 1 is brand new, 1 is tested on Lite.


where did u order those from?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Nov 28, 2021)

So is there any others who've done this install with an sx core/hwfly? 

I'm getting a core soon and am debating on the oled model but if a core is pointless to use then I'll just put it in my new switch.


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 28, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> where did u order those from?


Taobao. If you know the right guy, you can get the TX kind, as well as pcb adapter. My friend's source said they willing to accept an order if he demands considerable amount (like over 100pcs). 


TheUnknownOne said:


> So is there any others who've done this install with an sx core/hwfly?
> 
> I'm getting a core soon and am debating on the oled model but if a core is pointless to use then I'll just put it in my new switch.


TX Core works just fine, as well as Hwfly (depends on how good production is, because we know some folks got an issue about dat0 connection when used clone for modding), a good v3 clone is recommended. But it will not fit good compare to lite.


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 28, 2021)

TheUnknownOne said:


> So is there any others who've done this install with an sx core/hwfly?
> 
> I'm getting a core soon and am debating on the oled model but if a core is pointless to use then I'll just put it in my new switch.




This video shows the sx/hwfly core in the OLED


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 28, 2021)

mattyv said:


> I have an SX core laying around and was thinking it would be better to use that and be able to flash/upgrade Spacecraft. If you do try this, let us know your results. I am interested


hey!
I won't be cutting it.
There are small components in that place and they should be there for a reason 
It's just "playing LEGO" fitting it or using a Lite chip.

I'll be using a Core in the next days and will experiment a bit.
Cheers!


----------



## BigOnYa (Nov 28, 2021)

lufeig said:


> Edit: I found it! They even have a newer version which is allegedly better!


----------



## grubgrub (Nov 28, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> hey!
> I won't be cutting it.
> There are small components in that place and they should be there for a reason
> It's just "playing LEGO" fitting it or using a Lite chip.
> ...



What kind of soldering iron do you have?
Are the solder tips really tiny, like a pin tiny?
My soldering iron tip is quite large, may need to find something else


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 28, 2021)

BigOnYa said:


> View attachment 287339


I really wanted to know what are the "improvements" they claim.
I see they rerouted the "via" and used a black finish 



grubgrub said:


> What kind of soldering iron do you have?
> Are the solder tips really tiny, like a pin tiny?
> My soldering iron tip is quite large, may need to find something else


I  use a "somewhat" tiny solder tip.
Here's a pic of it next to a regular sewing needle:


The smaller your tip is the less heat it will conduct. So, for big GND pads/planes that sucks too much heat before it can melt the solder you should either increase the temperature or leave the iron tip there for much longer.
Both can have "consequences": you could either burn the pad/via/trace or rip it off.

My advise for you is, first practice, second a good flux is your BEST friend!!!

Since I already have some experience I use the same tip for everything, increasing the temperature when I see the GND isn't melting the solder.
I should warn you though that, no matter how experienced you are, you can f*ck up sometimes. Specially when you're too "experienced" since you get "too confident" and too much confidence can lead to mistakes 
For times, when increasing the temperature to solder a GND plane I forgot decreasing it and removed a tiny 0201 SMD component I should attach some wire 

Take your time, don't rush things up and if you see something "isn't working" don't push it!
Cheers!


----------



## mathieulh (Nov 28, 2021)

s3m80 said:


> well hwlfy core is using ver 1 but I think the lite version using ver 2. I have no complain using it so fast booting into menu and almost never failed


They are both using a variation of v1 it uses different APIs so it's not updatable even on V3 hwfly, it's also buggy because they made the storage that stores timing configurations to be read only, so it can never update timings per console and instead relies on the factory set timing.

 That said all spacecraft-nx v2 allows is to use the OLED panel to display the NO SD screen, so you can make do with the status LED. Then again a legit SX Lite modchip is preferable assuming you can secure one.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 28, 2021)

mathieulh said:


> They are both using a variation of v1 it uses different APIs so it's not updatable even on V3 hwfly, it's also buggy because they made the storage that stores timing configurations to be read only, so it can never update timings per console and instead relies on the factory set timing.
> 
> That said all spacecraft-nx v2 allows is to use the OLED panel to display the NO SD screen, so you can make do with the status LED. Then again a legit SX Lite modchip is preferable assuming you can secure one.


Yup!
I had a SX Lite original laying dormant just for something cool! 
I ended up using it on my OLED.

Funny thing though is my OLED has that same bug pretty much all HWFLY had, which is whenever you shut it down after 5 to 10 seconds it turns on again.
My SX Lite is flashed with Spacecraft-NX 0.2.0.


----------



## mathieulh (Nov 28, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Yup!
> I had a SX Lite original laying dormant just for something cool!
> I ended up using it on my OLED.
> 
> ...



That's not a SX lite bug at all. This is what happens when you turn off a Switch from Horizon OS. It turns back on again 15 seconds after you turn it off and finally turns off for good. Normally on a legit firmware you don't see this behavior because boot0 will do the final shutdown and it doesn't even power the screen on.  On hacked switches (except unpatched Erista without Auto RCM, which just would run Nintendo's boot0) a payload will run before proper shutdown can occur. Atmosphere and Hekate both have the shutdown sequence implemented. 

This was a "feature" introduced by Nintendo, presumably to combat auto rcm (this happens even on Erista) as it would prevent auto rcm hacked Erista from turning off properly and drain battery over time. I am not sure when exactly it's been introduced. For example my 3.0.0 Erista does not exhibit this "feature".


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 28, 2021)

mathieulh said:


> That's not a SX lite bug at all. This is what happens when you turn off a Switch from Horizon OS. It turns back on again 15 seconds after you turn it off and finally turns off for good. Normally on a legit firmware you don't see this behavior because boot0 will do the final shutdown and it doesn't even power the screen on.  On hacked switches (except unpatched Erista without Auto RCM, which just would run Nintendo's boot0) a payload will run before proper shutdown can occur. Atmosphere and Hekate both have the shutdown sequence implemented.
> 
> This was a "feature" introduced by Nintendo, presumably to combat auto rcm (this happens even on Erista) as it would prevent auto rcm hacked Erista from turning off properly and drain battery over time. I am not sure when exactly it's been introduced. For example my 3.0.0 Erista does not exhibit this "feature".


Huh! That's new to me!

Thx for the clarification!
I'll research more about this subject!


----------



## HenryMin (Nov 28, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Huh! That's new to me!
> 
> Thx for the clarification!
> I'll research more about this subject!


Yeah it's normal behavior, and you can use autohosoff on hekate to prevent it.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 28, 2021)

HenryMin said:


> Yeah it's normal behavior, and you can use autohosoff on hekate to prevent it.


Like in here?



Just change it to 1?
Thx!


----------



## HellsBoyz (Nov 28, 2021)

I recommend you guys choose SD File Based to create Emummc, because partition based somehow will not restore your files after doing backup on SD card.

Also emunand bases on sysnand, sysnand bases on device's storage capacity, which is 64gb. If you choose SD partition based, you can move 29 full (~32gb) or 29x2 (create 2 more partition, ~32gb each). I think it will corrupt.

Correct me if I'm wrong here. And after Nintendo release HOS 13.0, ATM and Hekate fully supported, SD file based (on Oled) is more reliable than before.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 28, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> I recommend you guys choose SD File Based to create Emummc, because partition based somehow will not restore your files after doing backup on SD card.
> 
> Also emunand bases on sysnand, sysnand bases on device's storage capacity, which is 64gb. If you choose SD partition based, you can move 29 full (~32gb) or 29x2 (create 2 more partition, ~32gb each). I think it will corrupt.
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong here. And after Nintendo release HOS 13.0, ATM and Hekate fully supported, SD file based (on Oled) is more reliable than before.


Currently there's no way to create 58.3Gb partitions via Hekate but it will create a 29Gb fine, which will work for OLED as well.

If you want to create a full 64gb partition you can use any partitioning program to create a 58.3Gb (actually a 58.27Gb will suffice) trailing partition on your SD and Hekate will "see and use" it as a full partition for your OLED.

Cheers!


----------



## FR0ZN (Nov 28, 2021)

BigOnYa said:


> View attachment 287339



Isn't it exactly the same despite the color?


----------



## BigOnYa (Nov 28, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Isn't it exactly the same despite the color?


Looks like there's more of an groove, indentation of where the chip sits.


----------



## lufeig (Nov 28, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Like in here?
> View attachment 287350
> 
> Just change it to 1?
> Thx!


autohosoff =

0: Disable 
1: If woke up from HOS via an RTC alarm, shows logo, then powers off completely
2: No logo, immediately powers off


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Nov 28, 2021)

lufeig said:


> autohosoff =
> 
> 0: Disable
> 1: If woke up from HOS via an RTC alarm, shows logo, then powers off completely
> 2: No logo, immediately powers off


Ah this will be helpful.  Thank you.


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 28, 2021)

lufeig said:


> autohosoff =
> 
> 0: Disable
> 1: If woke up from HOS via an RTC alarm, shows logo, then powers off completely
> 2: No logo, immediately powers off


Thx, mate!
I had mine set as 0 and I will be making a test soon enough with it set as 2


----------



## Mena (Nov 28, 2021)

BigOnYa said:


> Looks like there's more of an groove, indentation of where the chip sits.


It is the same minus the silkscreen change and the material change


----------



## mvmiranda (Nov 29, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Thx, mate!
> I had mine set as 0 and I will be making a test soon enough with it set as 2


Setting it to 2 causes the console to do not show anything, just as the option says, immediately shutting it down.

The chip blinks purple then green, which is expected since it needs to do its thing before Hekate senses a power on after a power off to shut it down for good.

One "annoyance" down! 

Cheers!


----------



## lufeig (Nov 29, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Thx, mate!
> I had mine set as 0 and I will be making a test soon enough with it set as 2


with autohosoff=2, when you turn the console off from horizon, it reboots to black screen, then the modchip comes into action again - you can see it from the status led - and as soon as the led becomes green, the console turns off automatically!
----------
EDIT: sorry, i wrote my answer when you were writing yours! glad that it worked for you too, mate!


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 1, 2021)

It seems like the HWFLY team has created a new OLED SoC cable and bundles it with the DAT0 adapter in a set.
It works on both the Lite and Core variant.






















As much as I would've wished for a revised PCB, this is probably better than nothing / as far as they will go.
If they would preinstall Spacecraft-NX 0.2 now on all units, we would be pretty much golden here.


----------



## lufeig (Dec 1, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> It seems like the HWFLY team has created a new OLED SoC cable and bundles it with the DAT0 adapter in a set.
> It works on both the Lite and Core variant.
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for letting us know!

Nice, but in the end we still have to solder 6 wires. 

PS for newbies like me: on the core installation there’s another step: fold the ribbon cable and connect the adapter - in which the 4 wires are soldered to - to the modchip motherboard.


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 1, 2021)

mathieulh said:


> They are both using a variation of v1 it uses different APIs so it's not updatable even on V3 hwfly, it's also buggy because they made the storage that stores timing configurations to be read only, so it can never update timings per console and instead relies on the factory set timing.
> 
> That said all spacecraft-nx v2 allows is to use the OLED panel to display the NO SD screen, so you can make do with the status LED. Then again a legit SX Lite modchip is preferable assuming you can secure one.



What about the serial over USB connection on the modchip?
Iirc you could putty into it and press "r" to reset it - did they remove this feature?


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 1, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> It seems like the HWFLY team has created a new OLED SoC cable and bundles it with the DAT0 adapter in a set.
> It works on both the Lite and Core variant.
> 
> 
> ...



Wow nice
This saves me having to solder onto the SX/HWFLY chip now
Which aliexpress link are you using?


----------



## sean222 (Dec 1, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> As much as I would've wished for a revised PCB, this is probably better than nothing / as far as they will go.
> If they would preinstall Spacecraft-NX 0.2 now on all units, we would be pretty much golden here.



I originally bought an SX Core pre-installed with Spacecraft-NX 0.1. Updated it to Spacecraft-NX 0.2, and attempted to install it in my OLED (and gave up and bought a HWFLY Lite instead due to size). Anyways, I took that SX Core with Spacecraft-NX 0.2 and put it in my old Original V1 Switch, and it wouldn't boot! I managed to downgrade to Spacecraft-NX 0.1 and then it booted, all else the exact same. Spacecraft-NX dev also mentions if you don't have an OLED, no reason to update...so it seems it's hard for HWFLY to accomodate to both OLED and non-OLED users. We know for certain Spacecraft-NX 0.1 'works' with both devices, but not the other way around.


----------



## mattyv (Dec 1, 2021)

sean222 said:


> I originally bought an SX Core pre-installed with Spacecraft-NX 0.1. Updated it to Spacecraft-NX 0.2, and attempted to install it in my OLED (and gave up and bought a HWFLY Lite instead due to size). Anyways, I took that SX Core with Spacecraft-NX 0.2 and put it in my old Original V1 Switch, and it wouldn't boot! I managed to downgrade to Spacecraft-NX 0.1 and then it booted, all else the exact same. Spacecraft-NX dev also mentions if you don't have an OLED, no reason to update...so it seems it's hard for HWFLY to accomodate to both OLED and non-OLED users. We know for certain Spacecraft-NX 0.1 'works' with both devices, but not the other way around.


Question...Can the SX Core be flashed with Spacecraft before it is installed? or does it need to be in the switch and powered on before it can be flashed?


----------



## sean222 (Dec 1, 2021)

Double-post. Deleted.


----------



## sean222 (Dec 1, 2021)

mattyv said:


> Question...Can the SX Core be flashed with Spacecraft before it is installed? or does it need to be in the switch and powered on before it can be flashed?


You connect it to the USB port on your computer and you can flash it first.


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 1, 2021)

lufeig said:


> Thanks for letting us know!
> 
> Nice, but in the end we still have to solder 6 wires.
> 
> PS for newbies like me: on the core installation there’s another step: fold the ribbon cable and connect the adapter - in which the 4 wires are soldered to - to the modchip motherboard.


Actually you only need 5 since the GND is already being "pulled" from the long CPU flat cable. 



mattyv said:


> Question...Can the SX Core be flashed with Spacecraft before it is installed? or does it need to be in the switch and powered on before it can be flashed?


Mine was updated before I install.
I used an original SX Lite updated with Spacecraft-NX 0.2.0.


----------



## lufeig (Dec 1, 2021)

AliExpress link for the set of ribbon cables for the OLED. 

Extremely expensive considering what it is. 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqYdFPk


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 1, 2021)

lufeig said:


> AliExpress link for the set of ribbon cables for the OLED.
> 
> Extremely expensive considering what it is.
> 
> https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqYdFPk



Yea i only need the cables, not the dat0 adapter.
Will wait for just the cables to become available


----------



## doom95 (Dec 1, 2021)

Oof, 43€, can't help but kinda really dislike hwfly since they appear to be incredibly motivated by greed. They obviously ripped TX's design, probably their bitstream and are now profiting hugely from TX's demise. One might wish the same upon them... but then we'd be left with nothing.


----------



## mike4001 (Dec 1, 2021)

Can someone explain to me what these addon cable sets are for?

I thought you solder the 6 wires to the mainboard and the HWFly Chip and thats it. 

What do I need these small addon cable/boards for?


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 1, 2021)

If I have the SX Core or SX Lite, I would just stick with the SX firmware 1.3 and just use the SX Gear boot.dat file. It's much simpler that way.

I bought my HWFLY lite from this Ming store. He is overpriced. Buy from Taobao if you can for 1/20 the price.


----------



## Mulanzo (Dec 1, 2021)

Getting a red light on my HWFLY Lite - mine was the one that I damaged soldering so not sure if its red because there is a short or if the chip was damaged.

Anybody know how to tell?

Also, does the value of the DAT0 point matter on the Multimeter?  Mine is like 1.650 or something like that... Sthetix was saying his was lower....


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 1, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Getting a red light on my HWFLY Lite - mine was the one that I damaged soldering so not sure if its red because there is a short or if the chip was damaged.
> 
> Anybody know how to tell?
> 
> Also, does the value of the DAT0 point matter on the Multimeter?  Mine is like 1.650 or something like that... Sthetix was saying his was lower....


1650 is too high! It should be something between 500ish and 700ish.

Does it blink some times (blue or purple) then red light?
If so then your issue is your DAT0 connection.


----------



## gregor4711 (Dec 1, 2021)

lufeig said:


> AliExpress link for the set of ribbon cables for the OLED.
> 
> Extremely expensive considering what it is.
> 
> https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqYdFPk





izy said:


> lmao until you realise how much it actually costs to make them thats a scam


----------



## lufeig (Dec 1, 2021)

I mean, the modchip is expensive but you can’t do it yourself at home

On the other hand, that ribbon cable set can be replaced by some enamel wires, fine soldering gig and technique.


----------



## izy (Dec 1, 2021)

lufeig said:


> I mean, the modchip is expensive but you can’t do it yourself at home
> 
> On the other hand, that ribbon cable set can be replaced by some enamel wires, fine soldering gig and technique.


Also that ribbon cable literally only costs like under an actual dollar to produce


----------



## slslasher (Dec 1, 2021)

lufeig said:


> AliExpress link for the set of ribbon cables for the OLED.
> 
> Extremely expensive considering what it is.
> 
> https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqYdFPk


order bulk from taobao, its cheaper a lot. without the dat0 adapter, i think cost less than 5 usd each. even if u order the full package its like 10usd. paying 40usd i rather use more cables to solder.


----------



## izy (Dec 1, 2021)

Also theres a new cable kit
Which doesn't include his v2 flex which tbf is just a material change nothing special.

Comes with a longer lite flex cable which is like 1cm+ too long lul

Oh and a new nand flex to solder to the chip.

Which is great because it's not like the lite already comes with one and you can just cut the flex for the same results.


Price £31


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 2, 2021)

mike4001 said:


> Can someone explain to me what these addon cable sets are for?
> 
> I thought you solder the 6 wires to the mainboard and the HWFly Chip and thats it.
> 
> What do I need these small addon cable/boards for?



They are so you dont have to solder on the small points in the HWFLY/SX chip itself.
The new CPU cable is longer so can go directly into the HWFLY/SX chips.
The second smaller cable goes into the HWFLY/SX chip and has 4 solder points on the cable, so makes soldering much easlier.
You still have to solder a few points on the switch oled board, so just means you have like almost half the amount of soldering to do now.
Will be worth it once the cost comes down.
I dont have an OLED switch yet, was waiting for the zelda special edition OLED to come out.
Otherwise i might cave and get an OLED now and just do a motherboard swap once the special edition oleds come out.


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 2, 2021)

I asked the aliexpress seller if he can offer an option without the dat0 adaptor, hopefully he can make it happen


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 2, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> I asked the aliexpress seller if he can offer an option without the dat0 adaptor, hopefully he can make it happen



Ok the response is "the new oled cable set is a full set 3 pieces from factory."
So i guess may not happen soon.


----------



## Mulanzo (Dec 2, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> 1650 is too high! It should be something between 500ish and 700ish.
> 
> Does it blink some times (blue or purple) then red light?
> If so then your issue is your DAT0 connection.


It lights up brightly verrry briefly a single time in like a bright white-blue colour then transitions to red. No blinking.  Almost like a camera flash for how fast it is. 

Edit: just checked again and it’s 658 now and there doesn’t SEEM to be any shorts, however, some points give me a value of 28 (near the area where I did the initial damage) such as the leg of the black chip with the wire attached.  Sort of at a loss now…


----------



## mathieulh (Dec 2, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> It seems like the HWFLY team has created a new OLED SoC cable and bundles it with the DAT0 adapter in a set.
> It works on both the Lite and Core variant.
> 
> 
> ...


This is lame, they don't even provide a dedicated flex for the remaining emmc points, you still have to use magnet wires for those. This is a half arsed job at best, I don't see the point in spending over $40 for this.


----------



## LeGenD_ArMoUR_ (Dec 2, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> It lights up brightly verrry briefly a single time in like a bright white-blue colour then transitions to red. No blinking.  Almost like a camera flash for how fast it is.
> 
> Edit: just checked again and it’s 658 now and there doesn’t SEEM to be any shorts, however, some points give me a value of 28 (near the area where I did the initial damage) such as the leg of the black chip with the wire attached.  Sort of at a loss now…


Make sure if your using enamelled wire to fully take off the coating before soldering your connections otherwise it ain't gonna read the points properly, red almost always means a bad connection. I had 60 seconds flashing blue then to red and it was my dat0 connection was coming away as I put the board back in so had to improvise a bit. Once it was seated firmly, green lights everytime


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 2, 2021)

mathieulh said:


> This is lame, they don't even provide a dedicated flex for the remaining emmc points, you still have to use magnet wires for those. This is a half arsed job at best, I don't see the point in spending over $40 for this.


Word.

Did you have a chance to check this?
https://gbatemp.net/threads/switch-oled-teardown-v1-v2.600550/post-9677690


----------



## mathieulh (Dec 2, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> What about the serial over USB connection on the modchip?
> Iirc you could putty into it and press "r" to reset it - did they remove this feature?


No idea, I don't own a HWFLY myself so I can't test it, from what I have heard  though going through USB does not seem to work, at least for updating, I would presume the reset command wouldn't work either, but feel free to test it should you acquire one.


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 2, 2021)

mathieulh said:


> They are both using a variation of v1 it uses different APIs so it's not updatable even on V3 hwfly, it's also buggy because they made the storage that stores timing configurations to be read only, so it can never update timings per console and instead relies on the factory set timing.
> 
> That said all spacecraft-nx v2 allows is to use the OLED panel to display the NO SD screen, so you can make do with the status LED. Then again a legit SX Lite modchip is preferable assuming you can secure one.





FR0ZN said:


> What about the serial over USB connection on the modchip?
> Iirc you could putty into it and press "r" to reset it - did they remove this feature?





mathieulh said:


> No idea, I don't own a HWFLY myself so I can't test it, from what I have heard  though going through USB does not seem to work, at least for updating, I would presume the reset command wouldn't work either, but feel free to test it should you acquire one.


I have some HWFLY laying around here and would LOVE to test this 
@FR0ZN, any guidelines on how to do this?

@mathieulh, you're right! USB does nothing on HWFLYs. You can only use it once: when the chip is "blank" on the first write. After that the PC doesn't recognize them anymore.


----------



## mattyv (Dec 2, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I have some HWFLY laying around here and would LOVE to test this
> @FR0ZN, any guidelines on how to do this?


https://www.sthetix.info/how-to-reset-the-chip-using-putty/


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 2, 2021)

mattyv said:


> https://www.sthetix.info/how-to-reset-the-chip-using-putty/



Seeing that the mentioned "clone" as well, I guess it should be possible to reset HWFLY modchips.


----------



## mathieulh (Dec 2, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Seeing that the mentioned "clone" as well, I guess it should be possible to reset HWFLY modchips.


Even if you do reset the HWFLY, there is nothing to reset from, given how timings aren't being saved to begin with, it will always use the factory built in values no matter what. That's assuming the reset command even works.


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 2, 2021)

mathieulh said:


> Even if you do reset the HWFLY, there is nothing to reset from, given how timings aren't being saved to begin with, it will always use the factory built in values no matter what. That's assuming the reset command even works.


honestly speaking, I'm, actually, more interested in knowing whether it's possible to update a HWFLY to Spacecraft-NX 0.2.0 than to update the timings.
I know we can flash it once so I don't know the chip is write locked after the initial programming.


----------



## sean222 (Dec 3, 2021)

Just sharing in case anyone is wondering about the HWFLY chips and the OLED. I heard that they boot slowly and the connector that you solder to the capcitors on the CPU sucks and doesn't solder well.

Well...both of those were untrue for me.

I had no issues soldering the connector to the capacitors on the CPU. Fluxed and heated up the points, and solder stuck to it just fine, no issues.

As for booting, the HWFLY Lite in my OLED boots to hekate in 1 or 2 seconds. Only 1 or max 2 flashes of the blue/purple light then I get the green light, every time!!! Whereas the SX Core in my OG V1 Switch takes anywhere from 3-7 seconds to get the green light...

Anyways, I'm finally enjoying my OLED and playing games, hope you all can get to this point of bliss as well


----------



## nicway123 (Dec 4, 2021)

Hi everyone I try to install a sx core on my oled and I try to boot the light show light blue then red and the red light will stay there for while and The screen will show purple light anyone here know what the issue ?


----------



## HellsBoyz (Dec 4, 2021)

nicway123 said:


> Hi everyone I try to install a sx core on my oled and I try to boot the light show light blue then red and the red light will stay there for while and The screen will show purple light anyone here know what the issue ?


Check for shorts?


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 4, 2021)

nicway123 said:


> Hi everyone I try to install a sx core on my oled and I try to boot the light show light blue then red and the red light will stay there for while and The screen will show purple light anyone here know what the issue ?


https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Panic_codes
Purple screen could mean a bootloader issue. Let's just hope your NAND code is not corrupted already.

Red light could mean short or bad communication to the NAND.
If it's instant red light on the chip then the issue is a short on top of the CPU.
If it's after the chip blinked some times purple/blue (your case) then it's, most likely, a bad DAT0 connection. You're either touching the wrong DAT line (or shorting two DAT lines) or an unsatisfactory connection (the DAT pin is not making good connection to your wire or adaptor).

Good luck on resolving your issue!


----------



## nicway123 (Dec 5, 2021)

Hi,the blue light did not blink at all


----------



## lufeig (Dec 5, 2021)

nicway123 said:


> Hi,the blue light did not blink at all


?!??
“the light show light blue then red”


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 5, 2021)

nicway123 said:


> Hi,the blue light did not blink at all


I'm a bit confused.
Can you explain again, please?


----------



## heinrich_frei (Dec 5, 2021)

Hello! I need help to identify the missing capacitor near emmc. Switch Oled. Would somebody be so kind to measure the capacitor from their own switch if possible.


----------



## Mulanzo (Dec 5, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Panic_codes
> Red light could mean short or bad communication to the NAND.
> If it's instant red light on the chip then the issue is a short on top of the CPU.


Can you clarify the difference between these two red lights?   Mine boots straight to a solid red light.  Does that mean there is a short on the ribbon connected to the CPU ( the flat thing with v1 v2 written on it)?  Or is it the nand?


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 6, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Can you clarify the difference between these two red lights?   Mine boots straight to a solid red light.  Does that mean there is a short on the ribbon connected to the CPU ( the flat thing with v1 v2 written on it)?  Or is it the nand?


I just mentioned... 

Yes! Instant red light means a short, most likely in your CPU flat cable!
in case of a short under the eMMC IC (NAND chip) the SX/HWFLY chip would work fine BUT would fail to get "access" to the NAND and would, depending on the short, RED or WHITE light.

This is not a "science" and I can be wrong. But this is the knowledge I got based on my experiences.

Good luck, bud!


----------



## s3m80 (Dec 6, 2021)

sean222 said:


> Just sharing in case anyone is wondering about the HWFLY chips and the OLED. I heard that they boot slowly and the connector that you solder to the capcitors on the CPU sucks and doesn't solder well.
> 
> Well...both of those were untrue for me.
> 
> ...


yes like I said if it installed correctly it boots with no errors everytime also fasther then sxcore


----------



## gregor4711 (Dec 6, 2021)

Hi all,
I'm looking for an errorcode list and shema.

do the HWFLY chip show errorcode via led (blinking  or via error report file to the micro sd card)?

Long storry short, when HWFLY is not booting is there any chance to see errorcodes from the booting process, which may indicate the issue?


----------



## Mulanzo (Dec 6, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> I just mentioned...
> 
> Yes! Instant red light means a short, most likely in your CPU flat cable!
> in case of a short under the eMMC IC (NAND chip) the SX/HWFLY chip would work fine BUT would fail to get "access" to the NAND and would, depending on the short, RED or WHITE light.
> ...


My switch still boots up normally as if nothing was installed though.  Wouldn’t a short on the cpu cable prevent that?


----------



## gregor4711 (Dec 6, 2021)

My Switch is blinking 15 times (blue and a litle bit red at same time(wondering))  than 1 sec full red and switch off (screen black) 
any idea ?


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 6, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> My switch still boots up normally as if nothing was installed though.  Wouldn’t a short on the cpu cable prevent that?


You mean if you disconnect the HWFLY 3,3v?



gregor4711 said:


> My Switch is blinking 15 times (blue and a litle bit red at same time(wondering))  than 1 sec full red and switch off (screen black)
> any idea ?


The blue/light red light blinking is normal.
The solid red light might be a bad connection to the DAT0 line.
Double check it


----------



## gregor4711 (Dec 7, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> The blue/light red light blinking is normal.
> The solid red light might be a bad connection to the DAT0 line.
> Double check it


Value with digital Multimeter is 712, which should be fine.
Is there any chart aviable where I can see the other values for the other points?


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 7, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> Value with digital Multimeter is 712, which should be fine.
> Is there any chart aviable where I can see the other values for the other points?


What I have seen so far is, pretty much all lines, except the RST one, should be around the same value you for in your DAT0 when you measure its continuity against GND. 
RST is always OL ("disconnected") when the board is not functioning.


----------



## gregor4711 (Dec 7, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> RST is always OL ("disconnected") when the board is not functioning.



getting the following values against GROUND (hausing USB port) :

DAT0-751
CMD-691
CLK - OL with Beep
RST- OL no beep
CPU-I - 0.000 with Beep
CPU-2 - 0.000 with Beep

is RST the issue, should RSt also be with beep?

sorry I'm an elektronic noop


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 7, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> getting the following values against GROUND (hausing USB port :
> 
> DAT0-751
> CMD-691
> ...


Your issue is, most likely, CLK. CLK should, also, measure around 700 just like DAT0 and CMD.

RST should be OL, as I mentioned above, and CPU 1 and 2 should beep since it's right on the CPU itself and all capacitors around the CPU measure a "short". Just make sure it's not, actually, shorting anything.
If possible, inspect the solder points with a magnifier or take a macro picture and carefully inspect it.

Good luck!


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 7, 2021)

check that your CLK point is not shorted. The point itself is very close to the ground where you cut the metal shield. Also measure again from the modchip side after covering it with the metal shield.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 7, 2021)

heinrich_frei said:


> Hello! I need help to identify the missing capacitor near emmc. Switch Oled. Would somebody be so kind to measure the capacitor from their own switch if possible.



I removed mine and it measures about 220nF.
Are you installing the sandwich board over from 91wii?


----------



## heinrich_frei (Dec 7, 2021)

doom95 said:


> I removed mine and it measures about 220nF.
> Are you installing the sandwich board over from 91wii?


91wii? I don't quite understand what you're talking about. Thank you so much for the measurement.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 8, 2021)

The black pcb on your image in the spot where the eMMC goes looked like the sandwich board that was posted here a few weeks ago. It exposes several of the lines to run to the modchips right from underneath the eMMC, so it could make for a cleaner install of you're willing to reball both the sandwich and the memory.


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 8, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> Hi Grubgrub
> 
> I have some spare parts DAT0 left. Please PM me if any interest.
> 
> ...



Thanks Gregor, the DAT0 adaptor arrived safely today!

That thing is super small

I dont have a OLED yet to try it on, hopefully soon!


----------



## gregor4711 (Dec 8, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> Thanks Gregor, the DAT0 adaptor arrived safely today!


cool 


grubgrub said:


> That thing is super small


Yes, its realy tiny. Also the fixing is quite complikatet. I try it with hot glue (don't work) and with super glue and activator spray (this work). Use a multimeter to check value between 500 -700 (mine was 751) **befor** you glue it.


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 8, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> cool
> 
> Yes, its realy tiny. Also the fixing is quite complikatet. I try it with hot glue (don't work) and with super glue and activator spray (this work). Use a multimeter to check value between 500 -700 (mine was 751) **befor** you glue it.


UV mask + UV amp would be "safer".
You have plenty of time to position the flex board before "activating" the mask cure with the lamp.


----------



## gregor4711 (Dec 8, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> UV mask + UV amp would be "safer".
> You have plenty of time to position the flex board before "activating" the mask cure with the lamp.


sure but cant find to order. You have an link for an good one?


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 8, 2021)

gregor4711 said:


> sure but cant find to order. You have an link for an good one?


Have you tried Aliexpress?
You should find one there pretty easily


----------



## doom95 (Dec 8, 2021)

I got a boatload of eMMC DAT0 adapters in and as promised a little while ago I'm offering them cheaply in hopes of helping some people out here and perhaps recuperate part of the investment. I'm not too likely to work on 1000 devices in this lifetime  so might as well distribute a few 

First some pictures...

Nearly 1000 adapters



Reflow attempt: I added some flux to the adapter before shoving it underneath the eMMC. After a simple short reflow profile it was firmly attached already. This should definitely form a good, lasting electrical connection, hopefully better than simply relying on friction to do a good long-term job.


Regardless, conformal coating certainly adds some mechanical robustness, so I tacked it down with a small layer.



If you need a small quantity of adapters, I've repurposed a paypal button over at https://munia.io/devices for a simple checkout. Price will be €1 per adapter, €3,10 flat-rate shipping world wide in untracked envelope, and 21% tax. Hopefully that seems reasonable.


----------



## lufeig (Dec 9, 2021)

State-of-the-art work. Congrats!


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 9, 2021)

Can someone help me get the value of this capacitor beside the CMD point please? Mine blew up while I was soldering the CMD point


----------



## doom95 (Dec 9, 2021)

That is a 47k resistor.


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 9, 2021)

Thank you! Do you happen to know where I can buy this part? Was searching mouser but don't know which part of is.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 9, 2021)

It's probably 0201. Best idea might be to get a resistor "sample book" from aliexpress, then you have virtually all common resistor values at once.


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 9, 2021)

doom95 said:


> It's probably 0201. Best idea might be to get a resistor "sample book" from aliexpress, then you have virtually all common resistor values at once.


Thank you. I'll try that.


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 9, 2021)

doom95 said:


> It's probably 0201. Best idea might be to get a resistor "sample book" from aliexpress, then you have virtually all common resistor values at once.


Indeed it is a 0201 packaging.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...0d-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"10000015484292939"}

15000 pieces 
Maybe it's too much for you, but yeah, you can find it on Aliexpress


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 9, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Indeed it is a 0201 packaging.
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001255087092.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.79af3333vrbysQ&algo_pvid=1e828d15-c4a7-4657-9e90-3e468abfe80d&algo_exp_id=1e828d15-c4a7-4657-9e90-3e468abfe80d-1&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"10000015484292939"}
> 
> ...


I ordered a sample book from Amazon It's expensive but should arrive here tomorrow. Currently, orders from AliExpress are expected to arrive next year the latest.


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 9, 2021)

BTW the caps in the CPU area beeps in continuity mode. Is this normal.


----------



## de9ed (Dec 9, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> BTW the caps in the CPU area beeps in continuity mode. Is this normal.
> View attachment 288917



yes it is normal, and it should beep with ground as well


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 9, 2021)

de9ed said:


> yes it is normal, and it should beep with ground as well


Thank you


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 9, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> BTW the caps in the CPU area beeps in continuity mode. Is this normal.
> View attachment 288917


Yes!
That's "normal" for capacitors near the CPU, specially on top of it


----------



## doom95 (Dec 9, 2021)

To those who ordered DAT0 adapters from me yesterday, those have been shipped. Good luck on your installs


----------



## Mena (Dec 10, 2021)

It's genuinely shocking how popular my adapter became. Hope it helps everyone


----------



## doom95 (Dec 10, 2021)

Mena said:


> It's genuinely shocking how popular my adapter became. Hope it helps everyone


Wasn't aware a member on here made this. Must say it is very well designed. The 'v'-groove latches on just perfectly. Was this the very first iteration of your design? Very impressive if so!


----------



## doom95 (Dec 10, 2021)

double post, apologies


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 10, 2021)

Mena said:


> It's genuinely shocking how popular my adapter became. Hope it helps everyone


Nice to, finally, meeting you!
Kudos for your idea and proactiveness! 
Thx for helping the community, mate!
Cheers!


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 10, 2021)

Mena said:


> It's genuinely shocking how popular my adapter became. Hope it helps everyone



Good work on the adapter, it seems like the scene is using it as the defacto way to get to dat0.

I was wondering however, if you believe it can be optimised, to make it thinner, so it fits under the shield, so people don't have to rip it apart.

Another good addition would be "anchor" points, to fix it in place, instead of using solder mask.

I doodled something up in paint - let me know what you think:





This way you would first slide it under the shield, so it drops on the PCB and then you slide it under the eMMC with 1-2 tweezers.

The DAT0 point would peek out on the side.

Once you meassured the resistence against GND to check if it has a connection, you solder the adapter to the 2 caps / resistors on the side to keep it in place forever.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 10, 2021)

I had a similar thought. Only concern would be how accurately the placement of those caps reproduces.


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 10, 2021)

doom95 said:


> I had a similar thought. Only concern would be how accurately the placement of those caps reproduces.


Indeed we might have a misaligned anchor point, so we can always make the solder point on your "board" a bit bigger to accommodate for the misplacements of such anchor points.


----------



## Mena (Dec 10, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Good work on the adapter, it seems like the scene is using it as the defacto way to get to dat0.
> 
> I was wondering however, if you believe it can be optimised, to make it thinner, so it fits under the shield, so people don't have to rip it apart.
> 
> ...


It’s intentionally generic. This is so it’s not specifically designed for the switch. Making it thinner is up to the fab you make it with. PCBWay’s thinnest option is 0.08mm which is limited to one layer. The thinnest option with 2 layers is 0.1mm which is what the current design is to help people who are a bit heat ignorant and just blast 400c. 

In terms of size, you’d want to have sides that wrap around the bga tightly so there’s no room for error. With your sketch you have the room to be misaligned. Obviously your anchors help with this, but this goes back to my first point about being intentionally generic.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 10, 2021)

Was it your intent that users reflow the eMMC chip after shoving the adapter underneath?


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 10, 2021)

doom95 said:


> Was it your intent that users reflow the eMMC chip after shoving the adapter underneath?


The got me thinking as well!
I'm curious


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 10, 2021)

Mena said:


> It’s intentionally generic. This is so it’s not specifically designed for the switch. Making it thinner is up to the fab you make it with. PCBWay’s thinnest option is 0.08mm which is limited to one layer. The thinnest option with 2 layers is 0.1mm which is what the current design is to help people who are a bit heat ignorant and just blast 400c.
> 
> In terms of size, you’d want to have sides that wrap around the bga tightly so there’s no room for error. With your sketch you have the room to be misaligned. Obviously your anchors help with this, but this goes back to my first point about being intentionally generic.


With thinner I meant making it smaller so it fits between the shield and eMMC, so peoppe don't have to rape the shield while installing it 

But if you say it's a generic adapter, we have to design a Switch OLED specific one


----------



## doom95 (Dec 10, 2021)

'Rape' seems a little overstated, a small incision at the edge allows the overhanging part to be bent upwards and you can simply bend it back into place before you put the cover back on.


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 10, 2021)

doom95 said:


> 'Rape' seems a little overstated, a small incision at the edge allows the overhanging part to be bent upwards and you can simply bend it back into place before you put the cover back on.


Tell that to Stethix


----------



## Mena (Dec 10, 2021)

doom95 said:


> Was it your intent that users reflow the eMMC chip after shoving the adapter underneath?


It's not meant to be soldered, slide it under, get a reading in diode mode, solder mask it down 



FR0ZN said:


> With thinner I meant making it smaller so it fits between the shield and eMMC, so peoppe don't have to rape the shield while installing it
> 
> But if you say it's a generic adapter, we have to design a Switch OLED specific one


If you make something specific to a Switch you may get into legal issues with Nintendo


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 11, 2021)

Fresh out the oven - not what I imagined, but definitely a step up.


----------



## Mena (Dec 11, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Fresh out the oven - not what I imagined, but definitely a step up.
> 
> View attachment 289195


Good work!


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 11, 2021)

Mena said:


> Good work!


Not from me, some seller on taobao made it.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 11, 2021)

Not a big fan of using that point for 3.3V, there's a few beefier caps that seem like the supply comes from a bigger trace and should be more robust to solder onto, but the dimension changes look like a slight improvement indeed.


----------



## de9ed (Dec 11, 2021)

doom95 said:


> Not a big fan of using that point for 3.3V, there's a few beefier caps that seem like the supply comes from a bigger trace and should be more robust to solder onto, but the dimension changes look like a slight improvement indeed.



that is what I'm thinking of too, there are 3.3v caps on the front side (top) for easy solder. why take 3.3V near the emmc ?


----------



## Mena (Dec 11, 2021)

de9ed said:


> that is what I'm thinking of too, there are 3.3v caps on the front side (top) for easy solder. why take 3.3V near the emmc ?


Well, you don't _need _to use it. Could just leave it be as an anchor


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 17, 2021)

Have you guys seen this?
<edited> 

Apparently it's a "new" HWFLY for OLEDs.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 17, 2021)

It was over in the other thread. Is there a source to purchase from?


----------



## mvmiranda (Dec 17, 2021)

doom95 said:


> It was over in the other thread. Is there a source to purchase from?


Can you point me to the other thread?
I did a lazy search before posting here and could not find it 

I do not know.
As far as I know this is a "preview" unit or something.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 17, 2021)

Yeah the https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintend...or-modchip-install.601394/page-7#post-9692623 thread

The guy edited the post though. But he showed the same picture before.


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 20, 2021)

Was a mission to get a hold of one, but my SX lite finally arrived!!
Now its time to get a switch oled soon


----------



## Mulanzo (Dec 20, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> 1650 is too high! It should be something between 500ish and 700ish.
> 
> Does it blink some times (blue or purple) then red light?
> If so then your issue is your DAT0 connection.


So I’m just reinstalling a new chip and while everything was all still disassembled I powered it on and booted to hekate!!!!   Then I assembled everything and screwed it all back together and now it flashes purple and then red!!!!  What the heck…..  could I have damaged something when reassembling?


----------



## doom95 (Dec 20, 2021)

Check the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?


----------



## de9ed (Dec 20, 2021)

doom95 said:


> Check the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?


which one is the clock signal ?


----------



## doom95 (Dec 20, 2021)

The one you scraped away the solder mask for, underneath where you cut away the SoC shield.


----------



## Mulanzo (Dec 20, 2021)

doom95 said:


> Check the clock signal wire in diode mode. Did you route the wire away from the screw hole?


Seems like there isn’t a short and I protected the routing with solder mask so it didn’t move or get cut


----------



## 0x3000027E (Dec 20, 2021)

Mena said:


> It's genuinely shocking how popular my adapter became. Hope it helps everyone


That was some wonderful engineering sir; a simple, cheap and efficient solution. Brings a tear to my eye


----------



## doom95 (Dec 20, 2021)

Mulanzo said:


> Seems like there isn’t a short and I protected the routing with solder mask so it didn’t move or get cut


But what does the diode mode reading say then? Check all your signals. The CLK is the most delicate one, but it could be any of them.


----------



## Mulanzo (Dec 20, 2021)

1208…


----------



## doom95 (Dec 20, 2021)

Inconclusive, but certainly not great. Can you desolder the wire from the modchip and then measure at the wire end?


----------



## HellsBoyz (Dec 22, 2021)

Do we need to put sx gear into sd card if we use oled with SX Lite in order to boot?


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 22, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> Do we need to put sx gear into sd card if we use oled with SX Lite in order to boot?


If you are using original sx lite with fw 1.3 - yes


----------



## HenryMin (Dec 22, 2021)

HellsBoyz said:


> Do we need to put sx gear into sd card if we use oled with SX Lite in order to boot?


Actually you should use latest spacecraft. SX stuff doesn't fully support OLED model.


----------



## iolo57 (Dec 22, 2021)

New Switch OLED SX lite Core C D0 adapter enhanced version:


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 22, 2021)

That's good looking flex. So no need to solder even the 3.3v point on the capacitor? Hopefully, another alt for CLK can be found. That's really the most difficult part of the entire mod.


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 22, 2021)

kerelenko said:


> That's good looking flex. So no need to solder even the 3.3v point on the capacitor? Hopefully, another alt for CLK can be found. That's really the most difficult part of the entire mod.


That's very unlikely - the only other alt point for CLK is under the eMMC, so we can count overselfs VERY lucky, that CLK is at least exposed on the mainboard 

I realy wish, they would consider / look at my idea here:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/switch-oled-teardown-v1-v2.600550/page-14#post-9641007

This way they can route DAT0, CLK, CMD and 3v3 from under the eMMC out with a flex cable.
You would only need to solder 1 wire (NRST), which is on the same side as the eMMC - this wire could be piggybacked to the flex cable, similar to their method.

Interesting times nontheless - we are approcainh clean installs


----------



## Torus (Dec 22, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> That's very unlikely - the only other alt point for CLK is under the eMMC, so we can count overselfs VERY lucky, that CLK is at least exposed on the mainboard
> 
> I realy wish, they would consider / look at my idea here:
> 
> ...


When you say Under the eMMC do you mean under the BGA package?


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 22, 2021)

Torus said:


> When you say Under the eMMC do you mean under the BGA package?


Yes - balika011 made a diagram:


----------



## doom95 (Dec 22, 2021)

I've done a few by now and while initially I believed in the merit of a sandwich solution, I no longer feel that way. Shoving the DAT0 adapter under + scraping off the CLK signal takes much less time than removing the eMMC and reattaching it, either by reballing or deadbugging; 19 wires is significantly more than the rest of the entire install. Cutting the SoC shield, scraping with fiberglass or grinding pen, and then running wires + tacking them down can be done pretty quickly.


----------



## Bizmo (Dec 22, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> New Switch OLED SX lite Core C D0 adapter enhanced version:



I have watched this several times and am still a bit confused. Ive ordered a couple of them from taobao so will have look when they turn up.

This carries over the D0,3v3 and GND from the MMC but as I see it you still need to solder the CMD, CLK and RST to the ribbon on this side, I guess it will make the install neater though? I thought you had to put the 3v3 and GND through the capacitor slot on the side of the SXlite, can you put it through the top ribbon cable?


----------



## doom95 (Dec 22, 2021)

As long as there's an electrical connection it will likely work fine. Regardless, tapping the DC supply from a nicely decoupled capacitor which additionally gives pretty good rigidity should be preferred. We are doing a very specific, super precisely timed voltage glitch on a modern SoC after all.


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 22, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> New Switch OLED SX lite Core C D0 adapter enhanced version:



Wow thats awesome!
The number of soldering points to do is going down!


----------



## White_Raven_X (Dec 22, 2021)

iolo57 said:


> New Switch OLED SX lite Core C D0 adapter enhanced version:





I prefer soldering all my connections. There's nothing worst then an intermittent issue in electrical devices.


----------



## Excitedguy (Dec 22, 2021)

I keep reading that the diode reading for dat0 should be 500-700 but I keep getting around 820. Can someone give me some pointers or let me know if it's safe to solder mask it on and proceed?


----------



## Excitedguy (Dec 22, 2021)

Edit: double post on accident


----------



## doom95 (Dec 22, 2021)

Very most likely, yes. If you don't trust it, put tacky flux on the gold plated part of your adapter and use hot air to on the memory to reflow the bga ball onto the adapter for a guaranteed perfect connection. You can also decide to do this later on and leave it be for now, or only put the solder mask on after having tested it.


----------



## Mena (Dec 23, 2021)

Excitedguy said:


> I keep reading that the diode reading for dat0 should be 500-700 but I keep getting around 820. Can someone give me some pointers or let me know if it's safe to solder mask it on and proceed?


This is fine. The variance is pretty large. Almost all my OLEDs have been 850~


----------



## Excitedguy (Dec 23, 2021)

Unfortunately I decided to give up, since I was soldering the first wire to the 3.3v point near the emmc chip and the entire thing came off and I struggled to try and put it back it to the point to where I lost it somewhere and can't find it. Strangely enough, I put everything back together and it still works without it (though I don't know how safe it is to keep using with it missing now). I'll try and find a pro to put in for me, sigh...


----------



## doom95 (Dec 23, 2021)

The capacitor came off? No biggie. Just use a larger cap near the fan connector instead.


----------



## lenselijer (Dec 23, 2021)

mvmiranda said:


> Have you guys seen this?
> <edited>
> 
> Apparently it's a "new" HWFLY for OLEDs.


Is this a brand new chip, or just the new cable set?
Can you share the picture with us?


----------



## heinrich_frei (Dec 24, 2021)

This picture


----------



## doom95 (Dec 24, 2021)

Available for purchase yet?


----------



## Hadobedo (Dec 26, 2021)

Is there any way to test if the HWFLY modchip works/powers on without having to wire the entire chip up? I messed up my first install (no lights on modchip, no boot on console) and am gonna attempt on a 2nd Switch OLED, but I don't want to go through the hassle of all the wiring just to have a dud.

Thanks in advance for any input and happy holidays!


----------



## de9ed (Dec 26, 2021)

Hadobedo said:


> Is there any way to test if the HWFLY modchip works/powers on without having to wire the entire chip up? I messed up my first install (no lights on modchip, no boot on console) and am gonna attempt on a 2nd Switch OLED, but I don't want to go through the hassle of all the wiring just to have a dud.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input and happy holidays!



plug in the USB adapter to the computer, the green light should turn on. I personally have not encountered any dead modchip yet. *Touch wood* 

good luck on the install and happy holidays


----------



## Hadobedo (Dec 26, 2021)

de9ed said:


> plug in the USB adapter to the computer, the green light should turn on. I personally have not encountered any dead modchip yet. *Touch wood*
> 
> good luck on the install and happy holidays


Plugged it in and got green light  thanks, and you too!


----------



## XFazer (Dec 27, 2021)

Hi.. Newcomer here 

Need help or guide for the New Oled Mchip.
Bought it from online Shop. Tq.


----------



## doom95 (Dec 27, 2021)

Look for sthetix' guide, best there is. Should be even easier for you since you have the very latest revision which makes the CPU points no longer in need of running wires.


----------



## FR0ZN (Dec 27, 2021)

babunlast said:


> Hi.. Newcomer here
> 
> Need help or guide for the New Oled Mchip.
> Bought it from online Shop. Tq.


Where did you buy this?


----------



## XFazer (Dec 27, 2021)

FR0ZN said:


> Where did you buy this?


Shopee MY. The shipment was from China. And this one a bit cheaper than v1/v2 or Lite variant.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Dec 28, 2021)

XFazer said:


> Shopee MY. The shipment was from China. And this one a bit cheaper than v1/v2 or Lite variant.


Was it 90usd? I just ordered one for my oled


----------



## doom95 (Dec 28, 2021)

Do they ship outside Malaysia?


----------



## iolo57 (Dec 28, 2021)

doom95 said:


> Do they ship outside Malaysia?


You can find the chip on aliexpress sold by the same retailer here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003698689759.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.78233e5fvrPqa3


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 28, 2021)

The new mod chip has a few differences to the SX Lite
It looks potentially smaller than the SX/HWFLY and there is 1 less connection port.
Looks like there is more space to solder on to the HWFLY OLED board.
Also a bit cheaper for the HWFLY OLED @ $90 VS HWFLY SX Lite @ $156


----------



## doom95 (Dec 28, 2021)

Nah, the B is on the bottom right corner.


----------



## hippy dave (Dec 28, 2021)

Curious if the new one has the latest version of Spacecraft, it must do right?


----------



## iolo57 (Dec 28, 2021)

hippy dave said:


> Curious if the new one has the latest version of Spacecraft, it must do right?


I hope so, moreover the fpga is different, it would be a GW1N-LV1QN32C6/I5. 
That should make it easier to upgrade if it is not restricted.


----------



## Bradle6 (Dec 29, 2021)

Alot cheaper than the hwfly lite I ordered couple weeks ago this will be good to save money for my 2nd install


----------



## kerelenko (Dec 29, 2021)

Finally got mine done thanks to @de9ed for completing the mod. Currently downloading my games from the eshop.


----------



## Excitedguy (Dec 30, 2021)

I installed the modchip (hwfly lite) using sthetix video guide and after connecting everything back to the motherboard, the switch nor the modchip turns on. I'm not exactly sure why I'm not getting any power, I double checked connections and they seem ok. I went ahead and read the diode values on all the points on the modchip and below are the results. Let me know if any of them seem off that could be causing my issue.

DAT0 = 0.685
CMD= 0.716
CLK= 0.721
RST = 2.913
CPU I = 0.023
CPU II = 0.552
GND = 0.001
3.3v = 0.002

I should also mention I did test the usb connection on the modchip to my computer and the green light does turn on, so the modchip itself should be good.


----------



## izy (Dec 30, 2021)

Excitedguy said:


> I installed the modchip (hwfly lite) using sthetix video guide and after connecting everything back to the motherboard, the switch nor the modchip turns on. I'm not exactly sure why I'm not getting any power, I double checked connections and they seem ok. I went ahead and read the diode values on all the points on the modchip and below are the results. Let me know if any of them seem off that could be causing my issue.
> 
> DAT0 = 0.685
> CMD= 0.716
> ...


usually if its not turning on its related to a short somewhere on cpu solder points


----------



## Mena (Dec 30, 2021)

Excitedguy said:


> I installed the modchip (hwfly lite) using sthetix video guide and after connecting everything back to the motherboard, the switch nor the modchip turns on. I'm not exactly sure why I'm not getting any power, I double checked connections and they seem ok. I went ahead and read the diode values on all the points on the modchip and below are the results. Let me know if any of them seem off that could be causing my issue.
> 
> DAT0 = 0.685
> CMD= 0.716
> ...


This is the result of a v1 spacecraft hwfly chip. It sets some pins to 5v that shouldn’t be 5v on an OLED. 


izy said:


> usually if its not turning on its related to a short somewhere on cpu solder points


See above


----------



## doom95 (Dec 30, 2021)

Can confirm. I very probably lost an OLED to this. Spread the word. We really need a way to distinguish old and new hwfly stock.


----------



## fennectech (Dec 30, 2021)

At least hes gonna replace my oled that got zapped by the chip.


----------



## Excitedguy (Dec 30, 2021)

Mena said:


> This is the result of a v1 spacecraft hwfly chip. It sets some pins to 5v that shouldn’t be 5v on an OLED.
> 
> See above


Is there any way to tell if it’s v1 or not? Maybe by plugging it in usb and using a program?

Or is there a way to make the v1 work on OLED models?

I hear a faint buzzing sound when I turn it on with everything connected.


----------



## Mena (Dec 30, 2021)

Excitedguy said:


> Is there any way to tell if it’s v1 or not? Maybe by plugging it in usb and using a program?
> 
> Or is there a way to make the v1 work on OLED models?
> 
> I hear a faint buzzing sound when I turn it on with everything connected.


Not that I can think of without dead bugging the emmc.


----------



## de9ed (Dec 30, 2021)

Mena said:


> Not that I can think of without dead bugging the emmc.



What you mean by dead bugging ?


----------



## doom95 (Dec 30, 2021)

Taking it off the board and soldering wires from the underside of the BGA to some external reader.


I did notice a difference between two boards I have. The first one has a trace going from the left resistor pad to the bottom-left pin of the ic. On the second HWFLY PCB this trace runs to the bottom-middle pin of the same IC. So it appears the out-of-place looking resistor is a fix for a design error with the board.
That said, I'm unsure which revision either is, but it'd make sense for the second one to be a higher revision where the board issue from the previous revision was fixed. No guarantees though. If anyone has a known-good v3 they could confirm.


----------



## fennectech (Dec 31, 2021)

de9ed said:


> What you mean by dead bugging ?


Dead bugging is when you flip the IC over and solderwires.    It is very painful on BGA parts


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 31, 2021)

I was thinking of ordering this cable set for the installation to make it easier.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...5;-1;[email protected];AUD;search-mainSearch

Not too expensive.

But i wanted to know where the solder small cable go.


----------



## Mena (Dec 31, 2021)

grubgrub said:


> I was thinking of ordering this cable set for the installation to make it easier.
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003707742673.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4900bc41q0puSp&algo_pvid=9c23c7a2-e4a8-42e1-9305-3158d72238ff&algo_exp_id=9c23c7a2-e4a8-42e1-9305-3158d72238ff-7&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"12000026880523305"}&pdp_pi=-1;20.85;-1;[email protected];AUD;search-mainSearch
> 
> ...


The small cable is for your NAND header on the lite. From left to right via the image of it, the order is DAT0, CMD, CLK, RST


----------



## de9ed (Dec 31, 2021)

doom95 said:


> Taking it off the board and soldering wires from the underside of the BGA to some external reader.
> 
> 
> I did notice a difference between two boards I have. The first one has a trace going from the left resistor pad to the bottom-left pin of the ic. On the second HWFLY PCB this trace runs to the bottom-middle pin of the same IC. So it appears the out-of-place looking resistor is a fix for a design error with the board.
> That said, I'm unsure which revision either is, but it'd make sense for the second one to be a higher revision where the board issue from the previous revision was fixed. No guarantees though. If anyone has a known-good v3 they could confirm.


Thanks for the explanation.

I have installed both of these hwfly lite on oled. And both boot without any issue so far. Will test it for 5 days or so.


----------



## ViOTeK (Dec 31, 2021)

Hey all, been following along here, and after inquiring with a seller on ali about the OLED version they were selling, due to it being cheaper as mentioned, was told new stock was arriving and they sent this picture which I haven't seen elsewhere yet (at least with all 3 in one shot).  Just thought I'd share it.  It also shows the new smaller DAT0 adapter.

I'll be watching for someone to guinea pig this new OLED version out and let us know how it goes, hopefully with a video.  Maybe we can flash these ones?  Looking forward to any news on these.


----------



## Mena (Dec 31, 2021)

ViOTeK said:


> Hey all, been following along here, and after inquiring with a seller on ali about the OLED version they were selling, due to it being cheaper as mentioned, was told new stock was arriving and they sent this picture which I haven't seen elsewhere yet (at least with all 3 in one shot).  Just thought I'd share it.  It also shows the new smaller DAT0 adapter.
> 
> I'll be watching for someone to guinea pig this new OLED version out and let us know how it goes, hopefully with a video.  Maybe we can flash these ones?  Looking forward to any news on these.
> 
> View attachment 291956


You cannot flash the new ones with default spacecraft. They contain a modified Spacecraft. This is to account for the new FPGA and the pin definitions and such. Flashing it would result in infinite glitching or nothing at all. I wouldn't even try it.


----------



## fennectech (Dec 31, 2021)

ViOTeK said:


> Hey all, been following along here, and after inquiring with a seller on ali about the OLED version they were selling, due to it being cheaper as mentioned, was told new stock was arriving and they sent this picture which I haven't seen elsewhere yet (at least with all 3 in one shot).  Just thought I'd share it.  It also shows the new smaller DAT0 adapter.
> 
> I'll be watching for someone to guinea pig this new OLED version out and let us know how it goes, hopefully with a video.  Maybe we can flash these ones?  Looking forward to any news on these.
> 
> View attachment 291956


Can you link this item?


----------



## Bonovox40 (Dec 31, 2021)

For those that installed an original SX lite chip in an OLED, did you have to flash or mess with anything on the chip itself in order for it to function correctly? (Regarding correct battery read and switch hardware functions like sleep/power off/reboot)

Or once all wired in place, the switch was g2g and the SD card setup w latest hekate/atmosphere and such was all that was needed?


----------



## Mena (Dec 31, 2021)

Bonovox40 said:


> For those that installed an original SX lite chip in an OLED, did you have to flash or mess with anything on the chip itself in order for it to function correctly? (Regarding correct battery read and switch hardware functions like sleep/power off/reboot)
> 
> Or once all wired in place, the switch was g2g and the SD card setup w latest hekate/atmosphere and such was all that was needed?


Just make sure to flash spacecraft 2nd release 0.2.0 and you're good to go with an sd card setup


----------



## Bonovox40 (Dec 31, 2021)

Mena said:


> Just make sure to flash spacecraft 2nd release 0.2.0 and you're good to go with an sd card setup



I thought flashing spacecraft was only for hwfly/clone chips?  And can that be done post solder and assembly or needs to be done prior?


----------



## doom95 (Dec 31, 2021)

Other way around, we can't reflash hwfly chips like we can the sx's.


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 31, 2021)

Mena said:


> Just make sure to flash spacecraft 2nd release 0.2.0 and you're good to go with an sd card setup



Should we flash the SX it before we install it?


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 31, 2021)

fennectech said:


> Can you link this item?


This link was posted earlier:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003698689759.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.78233e5fvrPqa3


----------



## grubgrub (Dec 31, 2021)

So using the cables set:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003707742673.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4900bc41q0puSp&algo_pvid=9c23c7a2-e4a8-42e1-9305-3158d72238ff&algo_exp_id=9c23c7a2-e4a8-42e1-9305-3158d72238ff-7&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"12000026880523305"}&pdp_pi=-1;20.85;-1;[email protected];AUD;search-mainSearch

There is now 2 solder points on the OLED Board (Excluding the solder points for the the CPU cable) and 1 solder point on the SX/HYFLY chip board for the 3.3v.

Hoping the 3.3v can be added to the cable or something so make soldering easier.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 1, 2022)

Hey had a quick question.  Got the Hwfly lite installed on OLED, however it flashes purple/blue then red then off.  I am only testing using USB-C power, not in the case, not using power button.  I am assuming the problem is the switch isn’t booting, just trying to charge.  In all the videos I see they test in the case.  Can anyone confirm this?  Just want to make sure it’s not a short and it’s just how I am testing.  Thanks


----------



## de9ed (Jan 1, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> Hey had a quick question.  Got the Hwfly lite installed on OLED, however it flashes purple/blue then red then off.  I am only testing using USB-C power, not in the case, not using power button.  I am assuming the problem is the switch isn’t booting, just trying to charge.  In all the videos I see they test in the case.  Can anyone confirm this?  Just want to make sure it’s not a short and it’s just how I am testing.  Thanks


Usually dat0 adapter for red light


----------



## XFazer (Jan 1, 2022)

Update*
Done doing the installation for Oled Modchip 

Next, just extract HATS zip into Micro sd card.? Tq


----------



## Vladjaye (Jan 1, 2022)

Mena said:


> You cannot flash the new ones with default spacecraft. They contain a modified Spacecraft. This is to account for the new FPGA and the pin definitions and such. Flashing it would result in infinite glitching or nothing at all. I wouldn't even try it.


is it bad?


----------



## Mena (Jan 1, 2022)

Vladjaye said:


> is it bad?


In what sense? Bad they modified it? No. Bad that they modified it without releasing the source because they're in violation of the license? Yes. If you're referring to reflashing it in hopes it would "just werk" then yeah it's bad. It'd never work until Balika looks at it


----------



## doom95 (Jan 1, 2022)

Let's compare the pinouts from the mcu's. If they indeed changed stuff, we can find out. Then we should look at the communication between mcu and fpga to see if this fully matches spacecraft. If so we can modify spacecraft to match it, should be simple enough. Then we can transplant a new mcu with actual spacecraft firmware onto hwfly boards.


----------



## Vladjaye (Jan 1, 2022)

Mena said:


> In what sense? Bad they modified it? No. Bad that they modified it without releasing the source because they're in violation of the license? Yes. If you're referring to reflashing it in hopes it would "just werk" then yeah it's bad. It'd never work until Balika looks at it


Sorry for not being specific. Never actually dealt with the modchips. I know that SX chips are rewritable - firmware update option was possible. What about the OLED new chip? It is still HWFLY, but is it updatable in terms of being rewritable? Also, is there any downgrade in performance vs original SX chips? I'm bit confused about the spacecraft versions too. The new chip for OLED comes with modified version of the original spacecraft or the release 0.2 for OLED models? Besides the pinout modifications in spacecraft, are there any other benefits or downsides? Thanks for your time!


----------



## iolo57 (Jan 1, 2022)

Other new chip for oled switch on sale:


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 1, 2022)

de9ed said:


> Usually dat0 adapter for red light


So the light on the chip should go green even if the board isn’t installed in the case?  My theory is that since the switch wasn’t “booting”, just charging that the chip tries to boot hence the blue/purple light, then red because nothing to attack, then off since the switch is just charging.  I will let you know for sure once I can get in back and in the case


----------



## Mena (Jan 1, 2022)

Vladjaye said:


> Sorry for not being specific. Never actually dealt with the modchips. I know that SX chips are rewritable - firmware update option was possible. What about the OLED new chip? It is still HWFLY, but is it updatable in terms of being rewritable? Also, is there any downgrade in performance vs original SX chips? I'm bit confused about the spacecraft versions too. The new chip for OLED comes with modified version of the original spacecraft or the release 0.2 for OLED models? Besides the pinout modifications in spacecraft, are there any other benefits or downsides? Thanks for your time!


Technically, yes it's rewriteable (someone tried to write spacecraft 2nd release to it) and it won't glitch fully because the original spacecraft that was on their was a modified version. The OLED chip is HWFLY. No there isn't a downgrade in terms of performance. It comes with a modified version of the 2nd release of spacecraft. Lastly, no there aren't any benefits honestly. It was just a better form factor for the OLED.



iolo57 said:


> Other new chip for oled switch on sale:



This one is much better thought out than the current "OLED" specific one


----------



## FR0ZN (Jan 1, 2022)

iolo57 said:


> Other new chip for oled switch on sale:



This looks very nice - anyone know if these can be bought yet?


----------



## iolo57 (Jan 1, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> This looks very nice - anyone know if these can be bought yet?


https://market.m.taobao.com/app/idl...etail.666662051462.2212723738694&forceFlush=1


----------



## doom95 (Jan 1, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> So the light on the chip should go green even if the board isn’t installed in the case?  My theory is that since the switch wasn’t “booting”, just charging that the chip tries to boot hence the blue/purple light, then red because nothing to attack, then off since the switch is just charging.  I will let you know for sure once I can get in back and in the case


Yes it should. It will show black screen if you don't have the SD inserted, but red certainly points to an installation issue.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 1, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Yes it should. It will show black screen if you don't have the SD inserted, but red certainly points to an installation issue.


There is no screen or SD card slot attached.  Just the motherboard with usb-c power cable.


----------



## doom95 (Jan 1, 2022)

Hmm, haven't tried that. But I think it might require the screen too.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 1, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Hmm, haven't tried that. But I think it might require the screen too.


That’s what I am thinking, the Hwfly should fail if no dat0 emmc data, and I don’t think the emmc would boot if the switch is off in charging mode.  Otherwise the chip would be on all the time


----------



## doom95 (Jan 1, 2022)

Would be interesting to know. Report back when you've installed it in a switch with screen?


----------



## Mena (Jan 1, 2022)

Red will likely be your DAT0. Even without a screen installed you will get a green light. If you get red you have an install issue. I would fix that before continuing


----------



## Mena (Jan 1, 2022)

https://github.com/Pheeeeenom/payloadchecker/releases/tag/1.0 Made this really simple app to check the payload that's written to your boot0. This will tell you if the chip that's currently installed is a hwfly with spacecraft v1 or v2 payload. Simply open it press the button and select your boot0

If you're testing multiple chips be sure to connect the USB cable and press E on PuTTy or other equivalent Serial COM application.


----------



## FR0ZN (Jan 2, 2022)

Mena said:


> https://github.com/Pheeeeenom/payloadchecker/releases/tag/1.0 Made this really simple app to check the payload that's written to your boot0. This will tell you if the chip that's currently installed is a hwfly with spacecraft v1 or v2 payload. Simply open it press the button and select your boot0
> 
> If you're testing multiple chips be sure to connect the USB cable and press E on PuTTy or other equivalent Serial COM application.



You say "written to your boot0", does this mean that the DAT0 connection is actually used only once to write the modified boot0 to the eMMC? Or is a DAT0 connection necessary for every boot?

I always thought that the chip injects a modified BCT at boot over DAT0 and then again I always wondered why it's not written permanently to the eMMC.


----------



## Mena (Jan 2, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> You say "written to your boot0", does this mean that the DAT0 connection is actually used only once to write the modified boot0 to the eMMC? Or is a DAT0 connection necessary for every boot?
> 
> I always thought that the chip injects a modified BCT at boot over DAT0 and then again I always wondered why it's not written permanently to the eMMC.


You need it for every boot.


----------



## FR0ZN (Jan 2, 2022)

Mena said:


> You need it for every boot.


Can you explain what the hack actually does?
My understanding was that it glitches the signature check of BCT.

But it seems that there is more involved, if boot0 is altered as well


----------



## ZachyCatGames (Jan 2, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> Can you explain what the hack actually does?
> My understanding was that it glitches the signature check of BCT.
> 
> But it seems that there is more involved, if boot0 is altered as well


They write a custom bct and bootloader to boot0 then glitch the bootrom's pubkey hash check to make the bootrom think a custom pubkey in the custom bct is correct/valid.

I'd guess they flash it on each boot because the OS attempts to restore stuff at some points, or maybe they reflash the original package1 for compatibility on each boot after glitching, idk.


----------



## Mulanzo (Jan 3, 2022)

Mena said:


> https://github.com/Pheeeeenom/payloadchecker/releases/tag/1.0 Made this really simple app to check the payload that's written to your boot0. This will tell you if the chip that's currently installed is a hwfly with spacecraft v1 or v2 payload. Simply open it press the button and select your boot0
> 
> If you're testing multiple chips be sure to connect the USB cable and press E on PuTTy or other equivalent Serial COM application.


I’m interested in trying this out.  Once I connect the USB cable do I have to power the chip somehow?  Or does the USB port power the chip?  Also, do I need an application for the computer to recognize the chip or driver or is your app enough?


----------



## doom95 (Jan 3, 2022)

No, you dump BOOT0/BOOT1 to SD card using Hekate, then load BOOT0 from your computer into the application.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 3, 2022)

Just picked up an OLED switch, can't wait to get my OLED chip in now.  Hopefully they stay the same price @ $100USD


----------



## heinrich_frei (Jan 3, 2022)

Hello there, maybe someone will help in this topic. After installing modchip SX Lite in switch oled, the fan stopped spinning, joycons do not charge. Switch works fine. Joycons are detected and work without bluetooth. On switch V1-V2, pu chip was responsible for charging the joycons and the fan, but I can't find it on switch oled.


----------



## Mena (Jan 4, 2022)

heinrich_frei said:


> Hello there, maybe someone will help in this topic. After installing modchip SX Lite in switch oled, the fan stopped spinning, joycons do not charge. Switch works fine. Joycons are detected and work without bluetooth. On switch V1-V2, pu chip was responsible for charging the joycons and the fan, but I can't find it on switch oled.


your fan doesn't work and your joycons don't charge? they likely don't detect either. i would do voltage injection on the fan circuit.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 4, 2022)

Mena said:


> your fan doesn't work and your joycons don't charge? they likely don't detect either. i would do voltage injection on the fan circuit.



I ordered an oled specific chip, I'm hearing that we shouldn't use the 3.3v off of bridging the 2 capacitors. Why is this? And if it's true what point should we use?


----------



## heinrich_frei (Jan 4, 2022)

Mena said:


> your fan doesn't work and your joycons don't charge? they likely don't detect either. i would do voltage injection on the fan circuit.


Joycons are detected and work as usual, but are not charged. The power supply is 0v in the fan circuit, but there is no short circuit to the ground


----------



## doom95 (Jan 4, 2022)

Can you inject 5v from a bench supply into the circuit, see how much it sinks?


----------



## heinrich_frei (Jan 4, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Can you inject 5v from a bench supply into the circuit, see how much it sinks?


Unfortunately, I don't have such equipment...


----------



## Mena (Jan 4, 2022)

If anyone has a modded oled with a new oled specific chip installed, DM me.


----------



## CompSciOrBust (Jan 5, 2022)

ZachyCatGames said:


> They write a custom bct and bootloader to boot0 then glitch the bootrom's pubkey hash check to make the bootrom think a custom pubkey in the custom bct is correct/valid.
> 
> I'd guess they flash it on each boot because the OS attempts to restore stuff at some points, or maybe they reflash the original package1 for compatibility on each boot after glitching, idk.


Don't the chips sniff DAT0 to synchronize the timing since Mariko has the random delays?


----------



## ZachyCatGames (Jan 5, 2022)

CompSciOrBust said:


> Don't the chips sniff DAT0 to synchronize the timing since Mariko has the random delays?


Dunno _shrugs_


----------



## SmallBoss (Jan 5, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I ordered an oled specific chip, I'm hearing that we shouldn't use the 3.3v off of bridging the 2 capacitors. Why is this? And if it's true what point should we use?


yes, if anyone has an explanation to this , i also want to know. some tap off from the 2 caps for 3.3v, some tap off from the cap near EMMC for 3.3v , whats the difference?


----------



## Mena (Jan 5, 2022)

SmallBoss said:


> yes, if anyone has an explanation to this , i also want to know. some tap off from the 2 caps for 3.3v, some tap off from the cap near EMMC for 3.3v , whats the difference?


Who said this?


----------



## doom95 (Jan 5, 2022)

SmallBoss said:


> yes, if anyone has an explanation to this , i also want to know. some tap off from the 2 caps for 3.3v, some tap off from the cap near EMMC for 3.3v , whats the difference?


The cap on the EMMC is small, further away from the modchip, on the wrong side of the board, whereas the 2 caps together near the fan connector are bigger, sturdier, closer to the chip and actually on the same side of the board as the modchip itself. You decide.


----------



## kylum (Jan 5, 2022)

Mena said:


> Who said this?





TheUnknownOne said:


> I ordered an oled specific chip, I'm hearing that we shouldn't use the 3.3v off of bridging the 2 capacitors. Why is this? And if it's true what point should we use?


I would like to know the truth on this as well. Is this hear say or do we have some facts!


----------



## SmallBoss (Jan 5, 2022)

doom95 said:


> The cap on the EMMC is small, further away from the modchip, on the wrong side of the board, whereas the 2 caps together near the fan connector are bigger, sturdier, closer to the chip and actually on the same side of the board as the modchip itself. You decide.


Is it as simple as just picking a side for 3.3v? why would some not choose the sturdiest 2 caps since its so close to the chip and on the same side but instead went on the other side of the board for it?


----------



## doom95 (Jan 5, 2022)

Yes, I obviously think so


----------



## heinrich_frei (Jan 5, 2022)

heinrich_frei said:


> On switch V1-V2, pu chip was responsible for charging the joycons and the fan, but I can't find it on switch oled.


Can anyone help track the full 5v circuit for the fan and joycons? Thank you in advance


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 5, 2022)

Mena said:


> Who said this?



From the small group of people I talk to, the guy who made up the spacecraft fw has said this, if I can get one of them to link me to where this was said I will follow up with that info.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 5, 2022)

SmallBoss said:


> Is it as simple as just picking a side for 3.3v? why would some not choose the sturdiest 2 caps since its so close to the chip and on the same side but instead went on the other side of the board for it?



Either one is easy if you know what your doing


----------



## kylum (Jan 5, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Either one is easy if you know what your doing


I agree with you! I believe the previous statements are not understanding why the question was asked in the first place. It isn’t about which point is easiest. It’s about which is safer. If the 3.3v rail is pulled down by the chip it potentially could cause issues down the road making one point better/ safer over the other. This of course is only hypothetical at this point.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 5, 2022)

kylum said:


> I agree with you! I believe the previous statements are not understanding why the question was asked in the first place. It isn’t about which point is easiest. It’s about which is safer. If the 3.3v rail is pulled down by the chip it potentially could cause issues down the road making one point better/ safer over the other. This of course is only hypothetical at this point.


Correct. This is why I asked the question


I'll likely use the point near the eMMC for this at this point


----------



## kylum (Jan 5, 2022)

Edit: oops wrong thread!


----------



## doom95 (Jan 6, 2022)

heinrich_frei said:


> Can anyone help track the full 5v circuit for the fan and joycons? Thank you in advance


Can you measure the output of the MAX8969 on the left of the cpu?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 6, 2022)

heinrich_frei said:


> Can anyone help track the full 5v circuit for the fan and joycons? Thank you in advance



I just helped someone with this. If on OLED try reflowing the +ALJ125 chip near the apu. Assuming your on oled and it's not working.

And I believe the person told me 30V


----------



## heinrich_frei (Jan 6, 2022)

Ok, I'll try later and write about the result


----------



## doom95 (Jan 6, 2022)

FYI we're talking about the same chip. The number behind the +ALJ may vary.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 8, 2022)

For anyone who has the 6 wire oled chip with the tiny dat0 adapter, have any of you flashed menas firmware to it and had the chip work still? Apparently flashing it will brick the chip...?


----------



## FR0ZN (Jan 8, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> For anyone who has the 6 wire oled chip with the tiny dat0 adapter, have any of you flashed menas firmware to it and had the chip work still? Apparently flashing it will brick the chip...?


Mena did a firmware?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 8, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> Mena did a firmware?


Post #716. Send him a pm


----------



## grubgrub (Jan 8, 2022)

Here is an installation video using the new cable:


----------



## mathieulh (Jan 8, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> Can you explain what the hack actually does?
> My understanding was that it glitches the signature check of BCT.
> 
> But it seems that there is more involved, if boot0 is altered as well


It glitches the BCT RSA pub hash compare so it returns true, this way you can use your own pub (and thus sign your bootloader with your own RSA private key), it also relies on BCT reads from the eMMC to derive proper timings for the glitch.

The glitch itself and the way it works is very straightforward, well documented and understood, the only reason there hasn't been any open source version of a switch modchip is that people do not fancy getting sued by various lawfirms contracted by Nintendo and its affliates.


----------



## mattyv (Jan 9, 2022)

Question for someone out there......aside from the sthetix SX/HWFLY Core diagram, are there instructions/examples of core installs in an OLED? I have an SX core that I would like to use, but would like to see how some have successfully installed it.


----------



## heinrich_frei (Jan 9, 2022)

mattyv said:


> Question for someone out there......aside from the sthetix SX/HWFLY Core diagram, are there instructions/examples of core installs in an OLED?


----------



## mattyv (Jan 9, 2022)

Thank you for the additional pic


----------



## HenryMin (Jan 9, 2022)

New modchip layout and installation example pics


----------



## Bradle6 (Jan 9, 2022)

HenryMin said:


> View attachment 292976
> View attachment 292977
> View attachment 292978
> View attachment 292979
> ...


You checked what spacecraft version it is


----------



## HenryMin (Jan 9, 2022)

Bradle6 said:


> You checked what spacecraft version it is


Well, I know I have to use the latest spacecraft.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 9, 2022)

Ignore this post, fixed my issue.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 9, 2022)

Can anyone help me with this?  I was plugging this back in and it was apparently upside down, the tweezers slipped and I pulled the black cable from the connector.  Is there an easy way to repair, or do I need to purchase a new 2-pin JST connector (if anyone knows the size that would help) and special crimper tool.  Got the OLED cable in fine, but botched this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## OrganixXx (Jan 9, 2022)

HenryMin said:


> View attachment 292976
> View attachment 292977
> View attachment 292978
> View attachment 292979
> ...


Nice! Which wire diameter do you use?


----------



## de9ed (Jan 9, 2022)

HenryMin said:


> Well, I know I have to use the latest spacecraft.



I think he wants to know if the new OLED Modchip comes with spacecraft 0.2


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 10, 2022)

I'm also curious on both the version of spacecraft that OLED version came with (mine is in the mail..) , and what that blue wire is you're using?


----------



## lufeig (Jan 10, 2022)

It looks like this one

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOeXywC


----------



## HenryMin (Jan 10, 2022)

It's my friend's work so I don't know exactly what he used.
The chip came with spacecraft 0.2.0 so it's safe to use.


----------



## foxtochop (Jan 10, 2022)

I just read 3 or 4 pages really fast, I'm at work.

I have a Switch OLED, I don't plan to hack it in anyway.

Should I be worried about something? What happened?


----------



## lufeig (Jan 10, 2022)

foxtochop said:


> I just read 3 or 4 pages really fast, I'm at work.
> 
> I have a Switch OLED, I don't plan to hack it in anyway.
> 
> Should I be worried about something? What happened?


Read all pages after work, or during your break. It’s an interesting topic with good information.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 10, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> Can anyone help me with this?  I was plugging this back in and it was apparently upside down, the tweezers slipped and I pulled the black cable from the connector.  Is there an easy way to repair, or do I need to purchase a new 2-pin JST connector (if anyone knows the size that would help) and special crimper tool.  Got the OLED cable in fine, but botched this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Its 2 wires, direct solder - Black ground, red +.


----------



## hippy dave (Jan 10, 2022)

foxtochop said:


> I just read 3 or 4 pages really fast, I'm at work.
> 
> I have a Switch OLED, I don't plan to hack it in anyway.
> 
> Should I be worried about something? What happened?


If you don't plan to hack it, you have literally nothing to worry about.

If you do plan to hack it, the safest thing is to make sure you get one of the latest chips specifically designed for OLED.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 10, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> Its 2 wires, direct solder - Black ground, red +.


Thank you.  That’s one problem fixed.  Now does anyone know why the RST point on the motherboard doesn’t give any diode reading?  It’s just a solder point, so no resistor or capacitor could have burnt off, but I am not getting any reading, even after removing the chip connection


----------



## doom95 (Jan 10, 2022)

No need to worry about that, it's normal.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 10, 2022)

doom95 said:


> No need to worry about that, it's normal.


Were you replying to me?  If so, all the videos I see and other posts say it should reading around 2.9 in diode mode and I get nothing, nothing on chip and nothing on motherboard.  Here are my readings if anyone can point me in the right direction, or if I should just trash it and start over:

DAT0- 805
CMD- 404
CLK- 596
RST - No Reading


----------



## sean222 (Jan 10, 2022)

Is this the 'latest'/preferred OLED chip? I don't see a USB debug cable on this....


----------



## lufeig (Jan 10, 2022)

sean222 said:


> Is this the 'latest'/preferred OLED chip? I don't see a USB debug cable on this....


This


----------



## sean222 (Jan 11, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Thanks!


----------



## james194zt2 (Jan 11, 2022)

@HenryMin What is the blue wire you are using? Do you have a link where you got it from, looks really good and getting decent wire that looks good for these jobs is a bit of a nightmare!


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 11, 2022)

james194zt2 said:


> @HenryMin What is the blue wire you are using? Do you have a link where you got it from, looks really good and getting decent wire that looks good for these jobs is a bit of a nightmare!


Kynar AWG 30 is a good.  In fact its better than the enamled wire you see in a lot of the installs.  The enamel coating can srape off very easily and cause problems,  I wouldn't doubt some failed installs are from this.  I only use the enameled / non enameled wire for trace repairs like usb c port or hdmi etc.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 11, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> Were you replying to me?  If so, all the videos I see and other posts say it should reading around 2.9 in diode mode and I get nothing, nothing on chip and nothing on motherboard.  Here are my readings if anyone can point me in the right direction, or if I should just trash it and start over:
> 
> DAT0- 805
> CMD- 404
> ...


Looks like its just dead.  I tried replacing the DAT0 adapter, and doing USB debugging, but I keep getting BAD0010D.  I installed the board back in the switch and I get no screen or fan when powering on.


----------



## de9ed (Jan 11, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> Were you replying to me?  If so, all the videos I see and other posts say it should reading around 2.9 in diode mode and I get nothing, nothing on chip and nothing on motherboard.  Here are my readings if anyone can point me in the right direction, or if I should just trash it and start over:
> 
> DAT0- 805
> CMD- 404
> ...



reading seem a bit off, my readings are ( red on ground, black on points)
dat0 = 420
cmd/clk = 400
rst = 380


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 11, 2022)

de9ed said:


> reading seem a bit off, my readings are ( red on ground, black on points)
> dat0 = 420
> cmd/clk = 400
> rst = 380


I was doing red on points, black on ground, but it should read the same way I believe


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 11, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> Kynar AWG 30 is a good.  In fact its better than the enamled wire you see in a lot of the installs.  The enamel coating can srape off very easily and cause problems,  I wouldn't doubt some failed installs are from this.  I only use the enameled / non enameled wire for trace repairs like usb c port or hdmi etc.


I used 32 for most of mine... I wouldn't recommend it, 36 is the way to go.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 11, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> Looks like its just dead.  I tried replacing the DAT0 adapter, and doing USB debugging, but I keep getting BAD0010D.  I installed the board back in the switch and I get no screen or fan when powering on.


Does the LED flash green?  if it does and your not getting any display, insert an SD Card with the necessary files.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 11, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Does the LED flash green?  if it does and your not getting any display, insert an SD Card with the necessary files.


Never got green, only glitching (flashing blue, then solid red or white). All the reading seem right, no shorts.  Everyone says it’s DAT0, but I tested several times, even removed and replaced the adapter and I get ~800 in diode mode every time, on the adapter and on the modchip side as well.  Wish we knew what the USB debugging codes meant.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 11, 2022)

de9ed said:


> reading seem a bit off, my readings are ( red on ground, black on points)
> dat0 = 420
> cmd/clk = 400
> rst = 380


So with red on ground and black on the points I get:

DAT0 - 494
CLK- 493
CMD- 416
RST- 458


----------



## de9ed (Jan 11, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> I was doing red on points, black on ground, but it should read the same way I believe





KaiN69420 said:


> So with red on ground and black on the points I get:
> 
> DAT0 - 494
> CLK- 493
> ...



Could it be a bad chip, I had 1 bad chip in 20 chips.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 11, 2022)

de9ed said:


> Could it be a bad chip, I had 1 bad chip in 20 chips.


I doubt it, I can connect via USB and it seems to be doing what its supposed to be doing.  I probably just messed up the soldering and fried the board.  I will probably just try to sell it as a donor board


----------



## de9ed (Jan 11, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> I doubt it, I can connect via USB and it seems to be doing what its supposed to be doing.  I probably just messed up the soldering and fried the board.  I will probably just try to sell it as a donor board


if you need someone to install it, let me know.


----------



## OrganixXx (Jan 12, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I used 32 for most of mine... I wouldn't recommend it, 36 is the way to go.


So small? No problems with connection?


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 12, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> I doubt it, I can connect via USB and it seems to be doing what its supposed to be doing.  I probably just messed up the soldering and fried the board.  I will probably just try to sell it as a donor board


So I think my issue was with the CLK point. It keeps beeping with multimeter so I think it’s grounded or a short. The problem is this copper stuff around the point where I scratched the CLK, the solder wants to stick to that and it’s grounded.  Did I scratch too deep or not enough?


----------



## Maryjaneka (Jan 12, 2022)

I didn't realize it is so different


----------



## lufeig (Jan 12, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> So I think my issue was with the CLK point. It keeps beeping with multimeter so I think it’s grounded or a short. The problem is this copper stuff around the point where I scratched the CLK, the solder wants to stick to that and it’s grounded.  Did I scratch too deep or not enough?


Looks like too much. Compare yours to this one.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 12, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Looks like too much. Compare yours to this one.


Yea, so if that's the case what can I do?  Just buy a new one?


----------



## lufeig (Jan 12, 2022)

This is what I would do: 

Remove the applied UV mask. Remove the solder that is causing the short. Uninstall the modchip. Try to turn the console on. If it doesn’t turn on, fix it or send it to someone qualified to do it. 

After it’s working again, I would think again if I would try to hack it myself again or send it to someone qualified to do it for me.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 12, 2022)

If anyone needs a Switch OLED donor board DM me.  I also have an HWFLY Lite as well.  Probably need another cable set for it though.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 12, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> If anyone needs a Switch OLED donor board DM me.  I also have an HWFLY Lite as well.  Probably need another cable set for it though.


I killed my OLED too attempting to hack it.

Sent it to a qualified and experient technician to revive it.

Don't give up, there's a good chance that it could be fixed.


----------



## kerelenko (Jan 12, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> Yea, so if that's the case what can I do?  Just buy a new one?


Use a microscope to clearly see the CLK point and the sorrounding GND copper. The size of the CLK point is about 0.6mm small with a gap to GND about 0.2mm it's very close and very tiny point. Wick the solder in that area and use a solder mask to mask the GND copper before working back on the CLK point. This was the point where I was having issues soldering even with a microscope as my hands were just shaking too much. I sent mine to @de9ed. He did a great job fixing my work.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Jan 12, 2022)

kerelenko said:


> Use a microscope to clearly see the CLK point and the sorrounding GND copper. The size of the CLK point is about 0.6mm small with a gap to GND about 0.2mm it's very close and very tiny point. Wick the solder in that area and use a solder mask to mask the GND copper before working back on the CLK point. This was the point where I was having issues soldering even with a microscope as my hands were just shaking too much. I sent mine to @de9ed. He did a great job fixing my work.


Yea I tried the solder mask and it would melt when iron got close.  I removed the chip and install board back in case and nothing comes on, no screen, no fan, cpu doesn’t heat up.  I tried with battery and charging cable.  I plan to buy a new one and new chip and have a different installer do it.


----------



## doom95 (Jan 12, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> If anyone needs a Switch OLED donor board DM me.  I also have an HWFLY Lite as well.  Probably need another cable set for it though.


What happened?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 13, 2022)

So far my oled chip has worked great.

Console gets a bit warm (but has not over heated) and I haven't heard the fan spinning up when I hold it up to my ear. Took the back off this morning and will run it for a bit to see if the fan kicks in as maybe it's just really quiet and efficient compared to the regular models...


----------



## doom95 (Jan 13, 2022)

Do joycons charge? You can use a tesla overlay to see if fan is being told to spin.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 13, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Do joycons charge? You can use a tesla overlay to see if fan is being told to spin.



Yes they do. That was the first thing I checked. I've never used that overlay so need to see how to use it.

Thanks

Does it have an option to manually control the fan speed?


----------



## jv_233 (Jan 13, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> So far my oled chip has worked great.
> 
> Console gets a bit warm (but has not over heated) and I haven't heard the fan spinning up when I hold it up to my ear. Took the back off this morning and will run it for a bit to see if the fan kicks in as maybe it's just really quiet and efficient compared to the regular models...


Which one did you install?


----------



## Cajacava (Jan 13, 2022)

Hi all, I need your support, I install the hwfly lite chip in my oled switch (is not my first time), but when I test it, the led blinks in purple and at the end, stay in solid orange and then turns off. I check all the willings and looks good. 
Later I uninstall the chip and now, the oled do not turn on, stay in black screen in portable and in the dock. Someone knows what can I do? There's a way to unbrick it?
Thanks in advance


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 13, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Do joycons charge? You can use a tesla overlay to see if fan is being told to spin.



Stupid me, I took it half way apart to check the fan connector, I forgot to lock it and left it open... Everything works fine now.


jv_233 said:


> Which one did you install?


The 6 wire one.  The one that at first cost $90USD


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 13, 2022)

Cajacava said:


> Hi all, I need your support, I install the hwfly lite chip in my oled switch (is not my first time), but when I test it, the led blinks in purple and at the end, stay in solid orange and then turns off. I check all the willings and looks good.
> Later I uninstall the chip and now, the oled do not turn on, stay in black screen in portable and in the dock. Someone knows what can I do? There's a way to unbrick it?
> Thanks in advance


There have been some issues with the lite and core chips, could be related, but you'd need to read back through some pages, I don't recall the exact symptoms or cause, but, did just see this on twitter doing an unrelated search:



Looks like the old core/lite chips can be reprogrammed!  He also recently fixed a dead chip, but it required re-balling it.  Looking forward to the details in a proper post/video on his site.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 13, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> There have been some issues with the lite and core chips, could be related, but you'd need to read back through some pages, I don't recall the exact symptoms or cause, but, did just see this on twitter doing an unrelated search:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the old core/lite chips can be reprogrammed!  He also recently fixed a dead chip, but it required re-balling it.  Looking forward to the details in a proper post/video on his site.



There’s a thread here about it

Only a few can be reprogrammed by now.


----------



## Cajacava (Jan 13, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> There have been some issues with the lite and core chips, could be related, but you'd need to read back through some pages, I don't recall the exact symptoms or cause, but, did just see this on twitter doing an unrelated search:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the old core/lite chips can be reprogrammed!  He also recently fixed a dead chip, but it required re-balling it.  Looking forward to the details in a proper post/video on his site.



thanks for your answer, but the problem is not with the hwfly chip. The problem is with the Oled. I remove the hwfly chip and all the wires and try to use it without modding but the switch is dead. The screen is black and do anything

Do you know some way to unbrick the the Switch?


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 13, 2022)

Cajacava said:


> thanks for your answer, but the problem is not with the hwfly chip. The problem is with the Oled. I remove the hwfly chip and all the wires and try to use it without modding but the switch is dead. The screen is black and do anything
> 
> Do you know some way to unbrick the the Switch?


It's not that simple.  You have to take motherboard out and inspect all solder points.  Check for bridges, solder splash etc.


----------



## Cajacava (Jan 13, 2022)

lufeig said:


> There’s a thread here about it
> 
> Only a few can be reprogrammed by now.


Hi all, I need your support, ai install the hwfly chip y my oled switch (is nos my fisrt time), but when I test it, the led finish not in green but in otange and then turns off. I uninstall the chip and now, the oled do not turn on.
Smeone knows what can I do? There's a way to unbrick it?
Thanks in advance


lufeig said:


> There’s a thread here about it
> 
> Only a few can be reprogrammed by now.



the problem is with the switch, the chip was removed with all the wirings but still not working


----------



## Cajacava (Jan 13, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> It's not that simple.  You have to take motherboard out and inspect all solder points.  Check for bridges, solder splash etc.


I did it, i let the switch as at the begining but is not working


----------



## kerelenko (Jan 14, 2022)

Cajacava said:


> I did it, i let the switch as at the begining but is not working


Your Switch could have been fried/bricked. There was a PSA recently that says hwfly chip are using old spacecraft nx fw that redirects 5v to the Switch if there is no payload.bin detected while turning it on.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 14, 2022)

Cajacava said:


> I did it, i let the switch as at the begining but is not working


Put up some high res pics for help.


----------



## Cajacava (Jan 14, 2022)

kerelenko said:


> Your Switch could have been fried/bricked. There was a PSA recently that says hwfly chip are using old spacecraft nx fw that redirects 5v to the Switch if there is no payload.bin detected while turning it on.


Ok, and it means that is nothing else to do? Or there are somenthing to unbrick it


----------



## lufeig (Jan 14, 2022)

It could be a faulty capacitor, resistor, a fried m92t36 ic, who knows…


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 14, 2022)

Cajacava said:


> Ok, and it means that is nothing else to do? Or there are somenthing to unbrick it


Yeah put of pictures if you want help - or send it to repair.


----------



## Doina (Jan 14, 2022)

It is a helpful tutorial! Thank you! I like that it also has photos.


----------



## WALK323 (Jan 14, 2022)

Hello, can anyone help identify this resistor on an oled switch?


----------



## sean222 (Jan 19, 2022)

New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.

TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.

Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision


----------



## kerelenko (Jan 19, 2022)

sean222 said:


> New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
> 
> TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision


Is this the new "new" version with the C-shaped flex cable and taps directly to the CLK point? I thought this would be the better version TBH.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 19, 2022)

sean222 said:


> New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
> 
> TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision



Why anyone would choose this over the 6 wire one is beyond me.


----------



## kerelenko (Jan 19, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Why anyone would choose this over the 6 wire one is beyond me.


to be fair though, if done correctly, this new chip and cables are much cleaner. I believe, also re-programmable. (?)


----------



## Excitedguy (Jan 19, 2022)

kerelenko said:


> to be fair though, if done correctly, this new chip and cables are much cleaner. I believe, also re-programmable. (?)


Sure hope it's re-programmable with all the sd card incompatibilities with this chip i've been hearing about.


----------



## kerelenko (Jan 19, 2022)

Excitedguy said:


> Sure hope it's re-programmable with all the sd card incompatibilities with this chip i've been hearing about.


The SD compatibility issue is because of the spacecraft v0.2 firmware I believe.


----------



## Excitedguy (Jan 19, 2022)

kerelenko said:


> The SD compatibility issue is because of the spacecraft v0.2 firmware I believe.


I believe you're right, I'm just glad it's not an issue on v0.1 or we would be seeing a lot more OLEDs frying from the 5v being sent to them.


----------



## sean222 (Jan 19, 2022)

kerelenko said:


> Is this the new "new" version with the C-shaped flex cable and taps directly to the CLK point? I thought this would be the better version TBH.


It's this one. I cut off part of the flex PCB (the U shaped one) because it goes over a chip to reach the 3.3v/ground, thus it goes up in the air. After I cut it, that PCB flex piece lays FLAT  Much more secure. If you don't let it lay flat, then you don't have to manually wire 3.3v and ground, as it will go through that flex pcb and plug into the top of the chip.


kerelenko said:


> to be fair though, if done correctly, this new chip and cables are much cleaner. I believe, also re-programmable. (?)


Without the USB debug port it's not easily flashable. You'll probably have to solder wires to the chip pins to flash it...

@Modzvilleusa does alot of installs, he's good. He also believes this version is poorly designed


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 19, 2022)

Something to note, is that version states "F2v1-6" on the ribbon cable vs the "F3v1-7" on the other new OLED chip (6 wire one mentioned), I figured it was the newer revision and thus ordered the later.  Just arrived, waiting on a few other items before installing, guess we'll see how it goes.


----------



## sean222 (Jan 19, 2022)

Ahhhh...so maybe mine is the 'older' version?! And it is superceded by the 6 wire version...makes more sense...
Eh, I don't care. I'm up and running!


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 19, 2022)

Yeah that's all that matters!  I had not heard of these SD card issues until now, I sure hope I don't have issues...


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 19, 2022)

kerelenko said:


> to be fair though, if done correctly, this new chip and cables are much cleaner. I believe, also re-programmable. (?)


The 6 wire one is also able to be flashed (I flashed mine so I know it is) and is half the price.

How "clean" the install looks is a trivial matter and doesn't make a single difference as long as it's installed correctly.

Its also 1/2 the price.


----------



## Vladjaye (Jan 20, 2022)

sean222 said:


> New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
> 
> TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision


Is it safe to do a first chip boot (for testing) without using the heatsink?


----------



## sean222 (Jan 20, 2022)

Vladjaye said:


> Is it safe to do a first chip boot (for testing) without using the heatsink?


If you're testing boot to Hekate only, that's fine. CPU isn't doing much (like a game) so it doesn't get hot at all.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 20, 2022)

My 2 cents here… I got a different OLED modchip variant than sean222’s. 

Mine has the USB port and comes with a different set of ribbon cables and EMMC adapter.

This adapter is smaller than the other versions, but it’s anchor point fixes it very well. It’s easy to insert under the EMMC and doesn’t require frame cutting.

It comes flashed with Spacecraft 0.2 from factory.

It’s not perfect - sometimes mine takes some seconds to glitch successfully - but it’s good enough.


----------



## sean222 (Jan 20, 2022)

lufeig said:


> My 2 cents here… I got a different OLED modchip variant than sean222’s.
> 
> Mine has the USB port and comes with a different set of ribbon cables and EMMC adapter.
> 
> ...


Nice and clean install. Good job! I like this version better than mine...but I was impatient and I couldn't find your version for sale on Ali.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 20, 2022)

sean222 said:


> Nice and clean install. Good job! I like this version better than mine...but I was impatient and I couldn't find your version for sale on Ali.


Thanks, I was impressed by your installation, the cable management, all details are very, very nice. Congrats! 

If you ever decide to get this version of the modchip, I bought mine from this link: 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtd8u0G


----------



## sean222 (Jan 20, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Thanks, I was impressed by your installation, the cable management, all details are very, very nice. Congrats!
> 
> If you ever decide to get this version of the modchip, I bought mine from this link:
> 
> https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtd8u0G


Thanks!  Yes I took my time and made everything perfect 
I think I saw that link but didn't go for it because there was no picture  I could've asked them for one I guess. Oh well, it's in the past. It's cheaper too!


----------



## lufeig (Jan 20, 2022)

sean222 said:


> Thanks!  Yes I took my time and made everything perfect
> I think I saw that link but didn't go for it because there was no picture  I could've asked them for one I guess. Oh well, it's in the past. It's cheaper too!


That’s the trick, you take your time and you have to do it only once! In the end you actually save time because you don’t have to redo anything!

Yep, I asked the seller for a picture of the modchip before purchasing it. 

What matters is that you successfully hacked it!

Have fun!


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 21, 2022)

@lufeig , what wire gauge did you end up using?  Any regrets or suggestions?


----------



## lufeig (Jan 21, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> @lufeig , what wire gauge did you end up using?  Any regrets or suggestions?


Here’s the link for the one I used on this installation: 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0dHG60

It was recommended by sthetix, and I highly recommend it too. 

It’s very easy to use, much easier than the enameled 0.1mm (38awg) wire I was using before.


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 21, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Here’s the link for the one I used on this installation:
> 
> https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0dHG60
> 
> ...


You used 36 AWG I'm guessing?  Hoping?  As that's what I ordered and received today.  I paid a lot more than aliexpress price, or I would have liked, but finding somewhere with decent shipping times to Canada wasn't easy. In case anyone needs it, there this site that carries something similar (PTFE encased stranded tinned copper 36AWG).

https://www.adafruit.com/product/4733

I actually ordered that same item from https://www.digikey.ca as I'm in Canada, and they offered one day shipping for $8 CDN.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 21, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> You used 36 AWG I'm guessing?  Hoping?  As that's what I ordered and received today.  I paid a lot more than aliexpress price, or I would have liked, but finding somewhere with decent shipping times to Canada wasn't easy. In case anyone needs it, there this site that carries something similar (PTFE encased stranded tinned copper 36AWG).
> 
> https://www.adafruit.com/product/4733
> 
> I actually ordered that same item from https://www.digikey.ca as I'm in Canada, and they offered one day shipping for $8 CDN.


Positive, AWG36 UL10064 wire. 

Have fun with your installation! I enjoy more tinkering, installing and modding  than actually playing the games.


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 21, 2022)

Thanks for confirming.  Also, in case anyone else was about to attempt this, make yourself aware of the 13.2.1 update that came out yesterday.  There is a thread about it here:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintend...-released-atmosphere-updated-to-1-2-6.606442/


----------



## HellsBoyz (Jan 21, 2022)

I just re-flashed Lite chip (TX kind) to Spacecraft 0.2 on Oled but mine does not show up NO SD screen when no sd card inserted. Beside that, everything works fine. 
Any ideas?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 21, 2022)

HellsBoyz said:


> I just re-flashed Lite chip (TX kind) to Spacecraft 0.2 on Oled but mine does not show up NO SD screen when no sd card inserted. Beside that, everything works fine.
> Any ideas?


Its an issue related to the ram, nothing is affected except the no sd screen


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 21, 2022)

Here we go:


----------



## lufeig (Jan 21, 2022)

Have fun my friend!


----------



## lufeig (Jan 21, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> Here we go:


@Donnie-Burger I used this diagram and this video as reference guides. I think they could be handy for you too. enjoy your installation!



Spoiler


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 22, 2022)

lufeig said:


> @Donnie-Burger I used this diagram and this video as reference guides. I think they could be handy for you too. enjoy your installation!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


----------



## lufeig (Jan 22, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


>


Congratulations!

Nice and clean job, I can imagine what you’re feeling!


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 22, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Congratulations!
> 
> Nice and clean job, I can imagine what you’re feeling!


Thank you.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 22, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> Here we go:


How do you like the omnivise (assuming that's what I'm seeing)? I have 2 of them and they're great. I tried finding a knockoff version for awhile due to the price and was never able to find something even remotely close.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 22, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> How do you like the omnivise (assuming that's what I'm seeing)? I have 2 of them and they're great. I tried finding a knockoff version for awhile due to the price and was never able to find something even remotely close.


Use it daily and helps a ton with some switch repairs.


----------



## Shrapn (Jan 23, 2022)

Hey all,

OLED switch with OLED chip (same as Sean222) What does a blue/purple light mean on the chip immediately after powering it on?


----------



## Shrapn (Jan 23, 2022)

*double post


----------



## Shrapn (Jan 23, 2022)

sean222 said:


> New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
> 
> TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision


Thanks for your pictures. I'm currently doing this install but have a question. The flex cable at the top, why are there two D points? The one near the top I understand comes from the DAT0 adapter on the backside, what is the purpose of the other D point?


----------



## Shrapn (Jan 23, 2022)

*double post


----------



## sean222 (Jan 24, 2022)

Shrapn said:


> Thanks for your pictures. I'm currently doing this install but have a question. The flex cable at the top, why are there two D points? The one near the top I understand comes from the DAT0 adapter on the backside, what is the purpose of the other D point?


They labeled it wrong. The upper D point is actually C. It connects to the DAT0 eMMC point.


----------



## sean222 (Jan 24, 2022)

Shrapn said:


> Hey all,
> 
> OLED switch with OLED chip (same as Sean222) What does a blue/purple light mean on the chip immediately after powering it on?


You have the SD with payload.bin plugged in?
Check the CPU solder points (two of them) just check the connector on the right side bottom of the chip and probe for continuity of two points (since there are two points on CPU) with a multimeter.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 24, 2022)

Just a heads up for those with the 6 wire chip.  There's an update to fix issues with SD Card compatibility and it has completely fixed the infinite glitching issue for me.


----------



## yee (Jan 24, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Just a heads up for those with the 6 wire chip.  There's an update to fix issues with SD Card compatibility and it has completely fixed the infinite glitching issue for me.





For those that are looking for links and an install video for the 6 wire version.


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 25, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Just a heads up for those with the 6 wire chip.  There's an update to fix issues with SD Card compatibility and it has completely fixed the infinite glitching issue for me.


Can you share details on this?


----------



## lufeig (Jan 25, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Can you share details on this?


it's on the video posted exactly above your question.


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 25, 2022)

My bad, getting a bit ahead of myself.  Had watched that video just a while ago, but not quite that far through, as I've run into a problem.. I don't seem to get passed the yellow blinking LED "training" stage.  Is this the "infinite glitching" they are referring to?  Unfortunately my chip also just jumps to a red LED when connected to the USB cable.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Edit:  Also, I've tried disconnected the CPU ribbon cable, that causes instant red light.  Also disconnected the ribbon and power cables, and the system turned on normally, so there are no massive shorts happening.  Diode values seem decent.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 25, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> My bad, getting a bit ahead of myself.  Had watched that video just a while ago, but not quite that far through, as I've run into a problem.. I don't seem to get passed the yellow blinking LED "training" stage.  Is this the "infinite glitching" they are referring to?  Unfortunately my chip also just jumps to a red LED when connected to the USB cable.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> 
> Edit:  Also, I've tried disconnected the CPU ribbon cable, that causes instant red light.  Also disconnected the ribbon and power cables, and the system turned on normally, so there are no massive shorts happening.  Diode values seem decent.


If you disconnect all the wires and connect the chip to your computer are you still getting red or yellow?

I had an issue with it taking over 10 minutes to do the learning thing.  This came down to me not having a good  connection on either SP1/SP2 so I just resoldered  them and touched up the CLK point and all was well.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 25, 2022)

did you measure all points and checked if they are ok?


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 25, 2022)

They all seem to be reading decently except potentially the RST, getting conflicting results on searching this value.  Should it read a diode value?  Some say no.  I don't seem to get anything even directly from the board, and that was one of the easier wires to get attached.

Edit:  Tried disconnecting the RST point from the chip, no change in behavior.  Not sure what the RST point does exactly...


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 25, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> They all seem to be reading decently except potentially the RST, getting conflicting results on searching this value.  Should it read a diode value?  Some say no.  I don't seem to get anything even directly from the board, and that was one of the easier wires to get attached.
> 
> Edit:  Tried disconnecting the RST point from the chip, no change in behavior.  Not sure what the RST point does exactly...


Like I said, remove  your chip from the console and plug into PC, do you get a red or yellow LED, if yellow, flash the latest fw.  If it's red or anything else you probably have a bad or bricked chip


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 25, 2022)

Since I don't have a board in front of me, would anyone be able to probe around on the board and find a spot where vol + and vol - would link up?  I've had to reset my chip a couple times due to infinite glitching, linking the reset points to vol + and - may be a good idea, hold both on startup and it resets... assuming this would work.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 25, 2022)

My RST measured 3200 on my multimeter on diode mode. 

It’s the point with highest value of all.


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 25, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Like I said, remove  your chip from the console and plug into PC, do you get a red or yellow LED, if yellow, flash the latest fw.  If it's red or anything else you probably have a bad or bricked chip


Just tried, no go, still get a red light, after a quick single blue/purple blip.

Before that I also tried checking the cpu connections, one wasn't the greatest looking, re-did that, but no effect either.

Checking the other connections currently but they look pretty good, curious on my diode readings however as they are all a bit higher then in the video guide:

DAT0 = 970
CLK = 975
CMD = 965
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 455?  
Edit: The above RST reading is right on the boards solder point, so maybe it's my meter, will check again tomorrow.
3.3v = 1142
GND = 0

Can anyone comment?  Also, this is using an ancient crappy multimeter.. I'll be picking up a better one tomorrow and re-check.

About time to check out for the night, just glad it's not bricked, yet.


----------



## de9ed (Jan 25, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Just tried, no go, still get a red light, after a quick single blue/purple blip.
> 
> Before that I also tried checking the cpu connections, one wasn't the greatest looking, re-did that, but no effect either.
> 
> ...


your rst definitely has issue, rest looks ok.


----------



## Modzvilleusa (Jan 25, 2022)

sean222 said:


> It's this one. I cut off part of the flex PCB (the U shaped one) because it goes over a chip to reach the 3.3v/ground, thus it goes up in the air. After I cut it, that PCB flex piece lays FLAT  Much more secure. If you don't let it lay flat, then you don't have to manually wire 3.3v and ground, as it will go through that flex pcb and plug into the top of the chip.
> 
> Without the USB debug port it's not easily flashable. You'll probably have to solder wires to the chip pins to flash it...
> 
> @Modzvilleusa does alot of installs, he's good. He also believes this version is poorly designed


Thanks duder, Yeah I'm working on an updated oled install vid right now going over the various happenings in the Oled scene, (new chips, hwfly lite psa ect)
Don't be fooled by the slick appearance of the dual flex cable. Everything about these chips is shittier than the other chips with the debug port.
Cpu cable is jank, dat0 adapter should be thrown in the trash and boot times are the worst. 
It also can't be updated / flashed unlike the other variant. Just avoid this revision entirely and use the oled chip with the debug port / test pads to solder to.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 25, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Just tried, no go, still get a red light, after a quick single blue/purple blip.
> 
> Before that I also tried checking the cpu connections, one wasn't the greatest looking, re-did that, but no effect either.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a bad chip. Assuming it's the 6 wire chip it should be yellow


----------



## note9 (Jan 25, 2022)

Hello, just received my OLED chips and when connecting to the PC one goes straight to RED led and the other Yellow led.

the one with that goes straight to Red has a groove on one of the chips like its been dremeled.

I'm assuming its dead? what about the Yellow led one? should it not be Green or only when it's installed?

still waiting for my OLED Switch to arrive.


----------



## heinrich_frei (Jan 25, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Before that I also tried checking the cpu connections, one wasn't the greatest looking, re-did that, but no effect either.


I would advise you to completely re-solder the cpu cable, because the red light appears when there is no cpu connection


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 25, 2022)

note9 said:


> Hello, just received my OLED chips and when connecting to the PC one goes straight to RED led and the other Yellow led.
> 
> the one with that goes straight to Red has a groove on one of the chips like its been dremeled.
> 
> ...


The red sounds like a DOA chip, the yellow is it's normal behaviour.

As for the scratches on the chips. They're doing this so people can't tell what kind of chip it is.  Probably to try and stop reverse engineering.


----------



## Cryzzgrantham (Jan 25, 2022)

sean222 said:


> Nice and clean install. Good job! I like this version better than mine...but I was impatient and I couldn't find your version for sale on Ali.


Ive been using a lot of both and the non usb version glitches instantly everytime, where as the one with debug seems to be so sporadic across the board.

imo that flex is perfect, its more like LITE installs, if we had a version with the extra flex, half dat0 adapter and debug port that would be perfect.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 25, 2022)

Cryzzgrantham said:


> Ive been using a lot of both and the non usb version glitches instantly everytime, where as the one with debug seems to be so sporadic across the board.
> 
> imo that flex is perfect, its more like LITE installs, if we had a version with the extra flex, half dat0 adapter and debug port that would be perfect.


mine is the usb version and I agree that it's glitching times are erratic, even after updating its firmware to the 0.2.0 China proper edition from Mena.


----------



## ViOTeK (Jan 25, 2022)

Any ideas on why my RST point will not show a diode reading?  Have tried with 3 multi-meters now, including a brand new one, same thing with all of them.  I only get a reading if I reverse the leads and use red on the ground and black on the RST point.  That said, with the new meter my readings are more in line with the others I've seen:

DAT0 = .700
CLK = .695
CMD = .691
RST = nothing with black on ground, reversing the polarity I see 415, same thing occurs directly at RST solder point.
3.3v = .712
GND = 0


----------



## MrGrinch (Jan 25, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Any ideas on why my RST point will not show a diode reading?  Have tried with 3 multi-meters now, including a brand new one, same thing with all of them.  I only get a reading if I reverse the leads and use red on the ground and black on the RST point.  That said, with the new meter my readings are more in line with the others I've seen:
> 
> DAT0 = .700
> CLK = .695
> ...



My guess is: https://gbatemp.net/threads/nintend...or-modchip-install.601394/page-5#post-9668457


----------



## Excitedguy (Jan 26, 2022)

Just wanted to give a shout-out to @de9ed !

He’s the real deal and installed 2 modchips in both my OLED switches. I play primarily in handheld so OLED is definitely worth the upgrade and costs of the modchip and installation.

I actually tried to do 1 install myself and it fried the switch. I thought I did the install right and all the diode values were correct, but yet I still saw some smoke after turning it on to test. So lost confidence in my skills and decided to have a pro like @de9ed do the installs for me. 

I found out later the reason my install failed is because there is a bug in spacecraft v1 on the Hwfly lite modchip that if you turn on the switch with no sd card inserted, it sends 5v to the switch and fries it. It pains me that I killed it by just forgetting to plug in the sd card, but at least I know now my micro soldering skills are decent for being a beginner!


----------



## White_Raven_X (Jan 27, 2022)

I still have an hwfly v2 and I found a schematic to follow to install in a oled... But I read somewhere that I would need to update the firmware  as OLEDs use more voltage or something like that and the firmware on the V2 isn't compatible even though the hardware can be installed.
Can anyone confirm this? Also can I update the firmware on this hwfly v2 cause I also read it was locked down and cannot be updated? I'm confused.


----------



## Excitedguy (Jan 27, 2022)

White_Raven_X said:


> I still have an hwfly v2 and I found a schematic to follow to install in a oled... But I read somewhere that I would need to update the firmware  as OLEDs use more voltage or something like that and the firmware on the V2 isn't compatible even though the hardware can be installed.
> Can anyone confirm this? Also can I update the firmware on this hwfly v2 cause I also read it was locked down and cannot be updated? I'm confused.



If it's on spacecraft v2 and not v1, it's safe to install into an OLED. Only spacecraft v1 sends the 5v to the switch if no sd card is inserted or payload.bin is missing. 

The only thing I can warn you about v2 though is that it has some compatibility issues with some sd cards not working. To my knowledge, all samsung sd cards work fine, other brands are trial and error to see which work and which don't.


----------



## note9 (Jan 27, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> The red sounds like a DOA chip, the yellow is it's normal behaviour.
> 
> As for the scratches on the chips. They're doing this so people can't tell what kind of chip it is.  Probably to try and stop reverse engineering.



Is it faulty firmware that can be reflashed or it's a dead chip?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 27, 2022)

I have no idea.  I'm guessing DOA or bricked somehow.  I flashed mine no problem and it runs great now.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 27, 2022)

Excitedguy said:


> If it's on spacecraft v2 and not v1, it's safe to install into an OLED. Only spacecraft v1 sends the 5v to the switch if no sd card is inserted or payload.bin is missing.
> 
> The only thing I can warn you about v2 though is that it has some compatibility issues with some sd cards not working. To my knowledge, all samsung sd cards work fine, other brands are trial and error to see which work and which don't.


A newer fw has been released that for the most part has fixed the issue.  It sure has hell did for me (on the 6 wire chip)


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 27, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> A newer fw has been released that for the most part has fixed the issue.  It sure has hell did for me (on the 6 wire chip)


6 wire chip here with smaller flex cable - FW Left stock - Glitchess instantly.  Just like the old OG non clones, results vary.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 28, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> 6 wire chip here with smaller flex cable - FW Left stock - Glitchess instantly.  Just like the old OG non clones, results vary.


If it works for you then it works. Personally I would highly recommend everyone update their 6 wire chip, but that's me.


----------



## boston909 (Jan 28, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> A newer fw has been released that for the most part has fixed the issue.  It sure has hell did for me (on the 6 wire chip)


Did you flash the r021 firmware from sthetix?  I'm just asking around about this as my switch is currently with my local modder to install the OLED chip.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 28, 2022)

boston909 said:


> Did you flash the r021 firmware from sthetix?  I'm just asking around about this as my switch is currently with my local modder to install the OLED chip.


If that's the one where he updated the video to add that, then yes that's the one.  Trust me it is worth doing.


----------



## boston909 (Jan 28, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> If that's the one where he updated the video to add that, then yes that's the one.  Trust me it is worth doing.


Cheers - that is indeed the one on his video:  ... I'll get my UK-based modder to do that.


----------



## FR0ZN (Jan 28, 2022)

Anyone also using the UL10064 wire he is recommending?


----------



## lufeig (Jan 28, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> Anyone also using the UL10064 wire he is recommending?


I am and highly recommend it. 

It’s easier to manipulate than 0.1mm enamel wire. The silicone coating gives the impression of being safer than enamel too. 

This is my OLED installation using it.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 28, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> Anyone also using the UL10064 wire he is recommending?


I used kynar 36 and worked fine.


----------



## FR0ZN (Jan 28, 2022)

lufeig said:


> I am and highly recommend it.
> 
> It’s easier to manipulate than 0.1mm enamel wire. The silicone coating gives the impression of being safer than enamel too.
> 
> This is my OLED installation using it.


What worries me the most is the braided core with multiple wires.



Donnie-Burger said:


> I used kynar 36 and worked fine.


Thanks, I might have some of that laying around.


----------



## lufeig (Jan 28, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> What worries me the most is the braided core with multiple wires.
> 
> 
> Thanks, I might have some of that laying around.


Concerning the multiple wires, you can hardly notice it. You melt it’s tip with the soldering iron, the exposed length is so short and it’s already tinned, so it acts like a single core wire.


----------



## note9 (Jan 29, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> I used kynar 36 and worked fine.


where did you get Kynar 36awg?, all i see is 30awg.

would 30awg kynar work?


----------



## Shrapn (Jan 29, 2022)

Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.

Damaged area:














Install/board pictures:


----------



## sean222 (Jan 30, 2022)

Shrapn said:


> Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.
> 
> Damaged area:
> 
> ...



I had this issue once, I forgot to plug the WiFi antennas back in  the two plugs in the middle of the big heat shield before you put the back cover on  I hope it's that!


----------



## backsaverhandle (Jan 31, 2022)

I just picked up a "broken" OLED with a ming OLED chip installed but system is dead. Previous owner tried to DIY and failed.

Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1. ALl of the other points check out with the multimeter.

I haven't put power to anything but the battery plug was connected when I opened the system. Voltage check shows that the battery is completely dead at the moment. Any chance that it can be fixed or does shorting those capacitors kill the SoC?

I'm going to get some solder wick and try to clean them up and save it, but if theres a good chance that the system is bricked I won't put too much effort in. Thoughts?


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Jan 31, 2022)

backsaverhandle said:


> I just picked up a "broken" OLED with a ming OLED chip installed but system is dead. Previous owner tried to DIY and failed.
> 
> Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1.
> 
> ...


I would clean anything that looks badly soldered, residual flux, any visible bridges, solder splashes etc.  Toothbrush and ipa 91%+, ultra sonic cleaner if you have one.  Dry real well and test.


----------



## backsaverhandle (Jan 31, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> I would clean anything that looks badly soldered, residual flux, any visible bridges, solder splashes etc.  Toothbrush and ipa 91%+, ultra sonic cleaner if you have one.  Dry real well and test.


When I get it cleaned up and try to charge the battery, is there anywhere I can check for charge current? I'm getting 0V reading on the battery plug, so I want to make sure it actually charges when I get to that point


----------



## Shrapn (Jan 31, 2022)

sean222 said:


> I had this issue once, I forgot to plug the WiFi antennas back in  the two plugs in the middle of the big heat shield before you put the back cover on  I hope it's that!


Thanks for the reply, I did make sure both were attached and checked continuity but it unfortunately is not the issue  Is there anything I can check with a multimeter to help narrow it down?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jan 31, 2022)

lufeig said:


> I am and highly recommend it.
> 
> It’s easier to manipulate than 0.1mm enamel wire. The silicone coating gives the impression of being safer than enamel too.
> 
> This is my OLED installation using it.


Are you using double sided adhesive to hold it in place? If so do you have a link for it on amazon?


----------



## lufeig (Jan 31, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Are you using double sided adhesive to hold it in place? If so do you have a link for it on amazon?


The modchip, yes. It’s 3M branded, I can’t help your further because I got it from a local store, I live in Brazil.


----------



## backsaverhandle (Feb 1, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> I would clean anything that looks badly soldered, residual flux, any visible bridges, solder splashes etc.  Toothbrush and ipa 91%+, ultra sonic cleaner if you have one.  Dry real well and test.


Got it cleaned up and booted into hekate. I can only get OFW or CFW to boot to a red screen though. What’s my next step?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 1, 2022)

lufeig said:


> The modchip, yes. It’s 3M branded, I can’t help your further because I got it from a local store, I live in Brazil.


Ordered some from Amazon with a bunch of other things, should arrive today.


----------



## lufeig (Feb 1, 2022)

backsaverhandle said:


> Got it cleaned up and booted into hekate. I can only get OFW or CFW to boot to a red screen though. What’s my next step?


Get Hekate and Atmosphere properly configured. But it’s completely off topic in here.


----------



## zal16 (Feb 1, 2022)

The original SX core have the same 5v bug from spacecraft 1.0?
Because i have one and will put it on my Switch OLED


----------



## lufeig (Feb 1, 2022)

zal16 said:


> The original SX core have the same 5v bug from spacecraft 1.0?
> Because i have one and will put it on my Switch OLED


Update it to spacecraft 0.2


----------



## zal16 (Feb 1, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Update it to spacecraft 0.2


Sorry, but it is really necessary? Her have the bug?
I don't want to update, only if her have the bug too


----------



## FR0ZN (Feb 1, 2022)

zal16 said:


> Sorry, but it is really necessary? Her have the bug?
> I don't want to update, only if her have the bug too


Everything that is not running Spacecraft 0.2.0 has this bug.


----------



## lufeig (Feb 1, 2022)

zal16 said:


> Sorry, but it is really necessary? Her have the bug?
> I don't want to update, only if her have the bug too


just think:

TX modchips were manufactured and coded way before Switch OLED even existed. 

Then why would it have a patched firmware for OLED compatibility?

TL;DR: flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2


----------



## zal16 (Feb 1, 2022)

lufeig said:


> just think:
> 
> TX modchips were manufactured and coded way before Switch OLED even existed.
> 
> ...


I understand now. Thanks for the explanation.


----------



## lufeig (Feb 1, 2022)

Make sure you flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2, not any other fork built for HWFLY clone chips. Good luck!


----------



## zal16 (Feb 1, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Make sure you flash vanilla spacecraft 0.2, not any other fork built for HWFLY clone chips. Good luck!


From github, right?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 1, 2022)

backsaverhandle said:


> Got it cleaned up and booted into hekate. I can only get OFW or CFW to boot to a red screen though. What’s my next step?


Remove everything and see if it boots ofw without issue.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 1, 2022)

Shrapn said:


> Hoping someone may have some insight regarding this. After successfully getting my OLED up and running, I found that the WiFi no longer sees any networks (both in CFW and stock). Everything else seems fine, even using the Joy-cons wirelessly. WiFi was definitely working prior to install. The only damage I found was near the CPU frame, but It doesn't seem that it would cause problems. Any help is appreciated! Pictures below.
> 
> Damaged area:
> 
> ...


I'm confused as to why all the uv solder mask? Doesn't make sense...


----------



## Shrapn (Feb 2, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I'm confused as to why all the uv solder mask? Doesn't make sense...



Because I originally followed this tutorial:

https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxt5en27a8QyHMMjnUSGosjgh6uW-J1pTj


----------



## FR0ZN (Feb 2, 2022)

Shrapn said:


> Because I originally followed this tutorial:
> 
> https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxt5en27a8QyHMMjnUSGosjgh6uW-J1pTj


He is probably wondering how you are holding the DAT0 adapter in place.
Because in the video you posted, sthetix used the UV mask to fix the adapter, so it doesn't move.
But in your picture, the UV mask touches everything except the DAT0 adapter.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 2, 2022)

backsaverhandle said:


> I just picked up a "broken" OLED with a ming OLED chip installed but system is dead. Previous owner tried to DIY and failed.
> 
> Upon inspection, several of the caps between SP1 and SP2 points are shorted. Specifically the group of 4 to the right of SP1. ALl of the other points check out with the multimeter.
> 
> ...


I've replaced the SP1/SP2 caps multiple times for people who have failed horribly.  Never killed the SOC


----------



## Shrapn (Feb 2, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> He is probably wondering how you are holding the DAT0 adapter in place.
> Because in the video you posted, sthetix used the UV mask to fix the adapter, so it doesn't move.
> But in your picture, the UV mask touches everything except the DAT0 adapter.


I thought he was referring to the solder mask covering the removed metal shielding. In regards to what you mentioned, long story short was I re-did everything from scratch after WiFi wasn't working, and I didn't want to solder mask the DAT0 adaptor in the event I have to replace the board.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 3, 2022)

Shrapn said:


> I thought he was referring to the solder mask covering the removed metal shielding. In regards to what you mentioned, long story short was I re-did everything from scratch after WiFi wasn't working, and I didn't want to solder mask the DAT0 adaptor in the event I have to replace the board.


I was referring to all the mask along the edge of the board where it makes no sense. Was just curious though. I used the 6 wire chip on my own 2 oled units and everything has been smooth with them, not a single issue.


----------



## yee (Feb 3, 2022)

Does anyone happen to have schematics of the HWFLY Lite into a V2? 

Thanks.


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 3, 2022)

Excitedguy said:


> Just wanted to give a shout-out to @de9ed !
> 
> He’s the real deal and installed 2 modchips in both my OLED switches. I play primarily in handheld so OLED is definitely worth the upgrade and costs of the modchip and installation.
> 
> ...



What exactly did you fried and how you fixed it?


----------



## Excitedguy (Feb 3, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> What exactly did you fried and how you fixed it?



I think I fried the CPU, unsure though. Could hear a faint buzzing sound near the battery every time I tried turning it on.

I noticed after it was fried, all the solder around 3.3v point on motherboard had melted and spread a lot. Probably due to the 5v being sent there instead of 3.3v.

To be honest, I wasn't able to fix the issue. I bought a new one from Walmart, swapped the back case showing the serial number, and returned it as defective and got a refund. Unethical I know, but f*ck Walmart.


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 3, 2022)

Excitedguy said:


> I think I fried the CPU, unsure though. Could heart a faint buzzing sound near the battery every time I tried turning it on.
> 
> I noticed after it was fried, all the solder around 3.3v point on motherboard had melted and spread a lot. Probably due to the 5v being sent there instead of 3.3v.
> 
> To be honest, I wasn't able to fix the issue. I bought a new one from Walmart, swapped the back case showing the serial number, and returned it as defective and got a refund. Unethical I know, but f*ck Walmart.



Oh, ok.
And don't worry about ethics. I don't even want to go there! Unethical is those bastards take tons of profit in every single item they sell. Every increase in price due to inflation or whatever, is always supported by the customer, so yeah, f... them real hard! 

I'm almost making a deal for an original SXOS core but I'm not sure if I'm confident enough to do this. But I might take the chance! I have the tools and etc, I'm just not sure I have the fine tuned skills needed for some parts of the soldering. I mean, the videos seems pretty easy, but then, when it's on our hands, things always become tricky. I have been practicing on some dead small device boards I have lying around and to be honest, only the wires I tried to solder to chip pins were harder. Harder in the sense that the gap between pins is so small, that it's even hard to keep the wire still and apply solder and the iron at the same time while keeping the wire in place. And other times, is bridging, no matter how much flux you put there! Sometimes, bridges just don't get loose! Other times is the solder that gets stick to the middle of the iron tip (instead of sticking to the very end of the tip) and doesn't stick to the pad/pin/wire/etc!


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 5, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Oh, ok.
> And don't worry about ethics. I don't even want to go there! Unethical is those bastards take tons of profit in every single item they sell. Every increase in price due to inflation or whatever, is always supported by the customer, so yeah, f... them real hard!
> 
> I'm almost making a deal for an original SXOS core but I'm not sure if I'm confident enough to do this. But I might take the chance! I have the tools and etc, I'm just not sure I have the fine tuned skills needed for some parts of the soldering. I mean, the videos seems pretty easy, but then, when it's on our hands, things always become tricky. I have been practicing on some dead small device boards I have lying around and to be honest, only the wires I tried to solder to chip pins were harder. Harder in the sense that the gap between pins is so small, that it's even hard to keep the wire still and apply solder and the iron at the same time while keeping the wire in place. And other times, is bridging, no matter how much flux you put there! Sometimes, bridges just don't get loose! Other times is the solder that gets stick to the middle of the iron tip (instead of sticking to the very end of the tip) and doesn't stick to the pad/pin/wire/etc!


Prices on things aren't going up just because stores want to increase them. Their costs have increased, price of fuel for transporting trailers full of products we purchase has increased, shortages on chips means companies have raised the wholesale prices on things they buy that we buy... 

If you mess up your console and do what he did, that means someone else is going to buy it and end up with a defective product. Now if the store says deal with Nintendo and they send it in and open it and see this is obviously not a manufacturing error, they'll deny warranty. 

So really what's the ethical solution here? It's to bite the bullet and either get it repaired or sell it as broken for parts.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Feb 5, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Prices on things aren't going up just because stores want to increase them. Their costs have increased, price of fuel for transporting trailers full of products we purchase has increased, shortages on chips means companies have raised the wholesale prices on things they buy that we buy...
> 
> If you mess up your console and do what he did, that means someone else is going to buy it and end up with a defective product. Now if the store says deal with Nintendo and they send it in and open it and see this is obviously not a manufacturing error, they'll deny warranty.
> 
> So really what's the ethical solution here? It's to bite the bullet and either get it repaired or sell it as broken for parts.


They dont put broken electronicss back on shelf.  Gamestop is another story though.  But yah I hear ya.


----------



## backsaverhandle (Feb 6, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I've replaced the SP1/SP2 caps multiple times for people who have failed horribly.  Never killed the SOC


Removed the chip completely and still same issue. I think it’s the “orange screen of death”. Luckily I didn’t pay much for this one


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 6, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> They dont put broken electronicss back on shelf.  Gamestop is another story though.  But yah I hear ya.


They don't know it's broken, he swapped the serial numbers and probably said it was a repeat gift, would be sold as new or open box, so whoever buys it gets screwed. If he returned it saying it was broken there'd be no reason to swap the serial numbers.

Make sense?

Edit, I re read the post and do see he stated it was defective. Why swap the serial numbers then, doesn't really add up to be honest. 

I still say if you broke it yourself, then that's on you.


----------



## ViOTeK (Feb 6, 2022)

Just because this thread took a bit of a nose dive, and I actually did too on my first attempt haha... I cooked the SP2 cap in an attempt to "fix" the solder job as I wasn't getting past the blinking yellow learning stage.  I got the "purple screen of death"...  I ended up pulling the modchip and components and returned it.  The way I see it was... Kept the sales guy at GameStop busy for a bit, the mail service shipping it to back Japan or wherever, the technicians Nintendo eventually sends it to, and the freight services people in between all busy and employed, and I get to take another crack at my mod.  Will I get banned someday if the news ever gets back to Nintendo proper that it was clearly an attempt at installing a mod chip?  Maybe... Doubtful lol..  Was it the most ethical choice?  Nope.  But, alas I am poor.  Poor enough I can justify this choice in my mind.   Honestly I could have returned it with nothing but some rocks glued inside to add weight and they would've accepted it.  No ID checks, phone number, nothing.  I wasn't THAT much of a low life, and at least gave back the whole thing.


----------



## grubgrub (Feb 6, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Just because this thread took a bit of a nose dive, and I actually did too on my first attempt haha... I cooked the SP2 cap in an attempt to "fix" the solder job as I wasn't getting past the blinking yellow learning stage.  I got the "purple screen of death"...  I ended up pulling the modchip and components and returned it.  The way I see it was... Kept the sales guy at GameStop busy for a bit, the mail service shipping it to back Japan or wherever, the technicians Nintendo eventually sends it to, and the freight services people in between all busy and employed, and I get to take another crack at my mod.  Will I get banned someday if the news ever gets back to Nintendo proper that it was clearly an attempt at installing a mod chip?  Maybe... Doubtful lol..  Was it the most ethical choice?  Nope.  But, alas I am poor.  Poor enough I can justify this choice in my mind.   Honestly I could have returned it with nothing but some rocks glued inside to add weight and they would've accepted it.  No ID checks, phone number, nothing.  I wasn't THAT much of a low life, and at least gave back the whole thing.



Ha, are you going to get another OLED switch?


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 6, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Prices on things aren't going up just because stores want to increase them. Their costs have increased, price of fuel for transporting trailers full of products we purchase has increased, shortages on chips means companies have raised the wholesale prices on things they buy that we buy...
> 
> If you mess up your console and do what he did, that means someone else is going to buy it and end up with a defective product. Now if the store says deal with Nintendo and they send it in and open it and see this is obviously not a manufacturing error, they'll deny warranty.
> 
> So really what's the ethical solution here? It's to bite the bullet and either get it repaired or sell it as broken for parts.



Yes, but those costs are being mostly supported by the costumer. They are not taking the increase of fuels, transports, etc. They pay more, but the costumer pays also more. So, who takes the "damage"? I think it's the costumer! That's what I mean. I didn't mean that they don't have increased prices for themselves. I meant that, at the end of the day, customer pays for all those price increases!
It's like a car. The shop buys it for 10k, then they sell it for 17k. Next year price for the shop increases for 2k, so they pay 12k, but the costumer will pay 19k... The 2k are being supported by the costumer!


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Feb 7, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> They don't know it's broken, he swapped the serial numbers and probably said it was a repeat gift, would be sold as new or open box, so whoever buys it gets screwed. If he returned it saying it was broken there'd be no reason to swap the serial numbers.
> 
> Make sense?
> 
> ...


He said he swapped back and thats not swapping serials as they are on left corner of tablet.  He noobed it and so did the return person or they gave no fucks.


HelloShitty said:


> Yes, but those costs are being mostly supported by the costumer. They are not taking the increase of fuels, transports, etc. They pay more, but the costumer pays also more. So, who takes the "damage"? I think it's the costumer! That's what I mean. I didn't mean that they don't have increased prices for themselves. I meant that, at the end of the day, customer pays for all those price increases!
> It's like a car. The shop buys it for 10k, then they sell it for 17k. Next year price for the shop increases for 2k, so they pay 12k, but the costumer will pay 19k... The 2k are being supported by the costumer!


Gas prices go up and down daily yet the systems retail prices stay the same for years.  Food for thought.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 7, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> He said he swapped back and thats not swapping serials as they are on left corner of tablet.  He noobed it and so did the return person or they gave no fucks.
> 
> Gas prices go up and down daily yet the systems retail prices stay the same for years.  Food for thought.


At the end of the day it is what it is. I still say if you break your own console, especially trying to install a chip into it. That's on the person who broke it. Shouldn't be returned. But that's me.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Feb 7, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> At the end of the day it is what it is. I still say if you break your own console, especially trying to install a chip into it. That's on the person who broke it. Shouldn't be returned. But that's me.


I agree with you 100.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 11, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> He said he swapped back and thats not swapping serials as they are on left corner of tablet.  He noobed it and so did the return person or they gave no fucks.
> 
> Gas prices go up and down daily yet the systems retail prices stay the same for years.  Food for thought.


Just wanted to add, you do know the serial number on the oled IS in fact on the back under the new kick stand. Not sure how I forgot that since I modded my own oled and saw that. There's no way he just returned it as defective as there would have been no point at all in swapping the backs. 

100% I'd put money on he said it was a repeat gift and didn't want it, so someone is going to be unlucky and get this dead unit...


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Feb 11, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Just wanted to add, you do know the serial number on the oled IS in fact on the back under the new kick stand. Not sure how I forgot that since I modded my own oled and saw that. There's no way he just returned it as defective as there would have been no point at all in swapping the backs.
> 
> 100% I'd put money on he said it was a repeat gift and didn't want it, so someone is going to be unlucky and get this dead unit...


Correct on oleds serial is on back panel.  Ive bought a defective swapped console before, yeah it sucks.  Quick return and all good but very inconvenient.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 12, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> Correct on oleds serial is on back panel.  Ive bought a defective swapped console before, yeah it sucks.  Quick return and all good but very inconvenient.


I've had it happen to me, and was told to deal with the console manufacturer. There's no way that switch got returned as a defect, there'd be 0 reason to switch the backs in that case.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Feb 12, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I've had it happen to me, and was told to deal with the console manufacturer. There's no way that switch got returned as a defect, there'd be 0 reason to switch the backs in that case.


This is why I only buy from stores that dont do this and inspect/test before return expiration date.  At the end of the day its just an assumption.  Only he knows what he did say.

You missed the point, he swapped, thats why.


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 12, 2022)

Donnie-Burger said:


> He said he swapped back and thats not swapping serials as they are on left corner of tablet.  He noobed it and so did the return person or they gave no fucks.
> 
> Gas prices go up and down daily yet the systems retail prices stay the same for years.  Food for thought.


You mean for the supplier or for the customer? Still, it's the customer that supports the majority of prices volatility. Anyway, I am going offtopic with this.

Back On topic
If I buy an original SXOS and the cables, we have te 2 caps with have to solder to the cpu ribbon, right?
Then, at least for the HWFLY, there are also those 2 pads that I think they are GND. With SXOS core chip, those 2 still needs to be soldered as with the HWFLY, right?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 12, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> You mean for the supplier or for the customer? Still, it's the customer that supports the majority of prices volatility. Anyway, I am going offtopic with this.
> 
> Back On topic
> If I buy an original SXOS and the cables, we have te 2 caps with have to solder to the cpu ribbon, right?
> Then, at least for the HWFLY, there are also those 2 pads that I think they are GND. With SXOS code chip, those 2 still needs to be soldered as with the HWFLY, right?


You would need the proper cpu ribbon, and I'm not sure if the pinout is the same or not. You then would need to solder wires right to the chip for everything else

On the oled you'd be best off just buying an oled specific chip to avoid issues. Do it proper the first time.


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 12, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> You would need the proper cpu ribbon, and I'm not sure if the pinout is the same or not. You then would need to solder wires right to the chip for everything else
> 
> On the oled you'd be best off just buying an oled specific chip to avoid issues. Do it proper the first time.


What you mean with OLED specific chip? Isn't the original SXOS a specific chip?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 12, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> What you mean with OLED specific chip? Isn't the original SXOS a specific chip?


Theres different chips, one for regular and lite, and now there's an oled chip. 

If your modding an oled just use an oled specific chip


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 12, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Theres different chips, one for regular and lite, and now there's an oled chip.
> 
> If your modding an oled just use an oled specific chip


ok, and the original SXOS is not specific for OLED? I mean, I have an image with the schematics and etc. I just to want make sure about the connections, etc.


----------



## lufeig (Feb 12, 2022)

Original SXOS is specific to Lite or Core Switches. 

Use the search function, there are tons of pictures and information about the OLED specific modchips.


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 12, 2022)

lufeig said:


> Original SXOS is specific to Lite or Core Switches.
> 
> Use the search function, there are tons of pictures and information about the OLED specific modchips.


But it works on the OLED, rigt? And doesn't it glitch better and faster than the HWFLY clones?


----------



## zal16 (Feb 12, 2022)

Why on sthetix diagram, is necessary to put an resistor of 10 - 50 ohm on dat0 line?


----------



## hippy dave (Feb 13, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> But it works on the OLED, rigt? And doesn't it glitch better and faster than the HWFLY clones?


It's not designed for it and doesn't have the right flex for direct soldering, but you can connect it with separate wires. You also have to flash it with recent Spacecraft firmware as the original firmware isn't designed for OLED either.


----------



## Jarvmeister (Feb 13, 2022)

I really need to get this done for me in the UK. I really want an oled modded. I watched the video and although I've worked in tech all my life this surgical precision would be too tough for me. I struggle not breaking the casing when replacing a fan on a laptop! I'm not made of money but if there is someone near London/Essex who can help would be great to know. 
Otherwise I'm looking at buying an unpatched v1 currently which I can do myself but the age of the devices and battery life is a concern and the oled bezle size is a gigantic draw.


----------



## de9ed (Feb 13, 2022)

Jarvmeister said:


> I really need to get this done for me in the UK. I really want an oled modded. I watched the video and although I've worked in tech all my life this surgical precision would be too tough for me. I struggle not breaking the casing when replacing a fan on a laptop! I'm not made of money but if there is someone near London/Essex who can help would be great to know.
> Otherwise I'm looking at buying an unpatched v1 currently which I can do myself but the age of the devices and battery life is a concern and the oled bezle size is a gigantic draw.



I do install for mail in and premodded. pm me for details


----------



## Bonovox40 (Feb 13, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> But it works on the OLED, rigt? And doesn't it glitch better and faster than the HWFLY clones?


It does work, it's just the flex cables for the hwfly chips weren't designed w it in mind.  
There are lots of vids online from when the OLED was first starting to get modded, and many were using leftover SX core/lite chips successfully on it.  (Also before the DAT0 adapters showed up also)

You can find vids showing them being instt and working like the hwfly chips, although some show emmc reball which is totally unnecessary now w the adapter.  

There's still warning caveats that you should flash spacecraft V2 on the SX chip first to prevent the wrong voltage signal instructions from possibly being sent over. But otherwise, I have not heard of anyone having a successful SX chip cause problems later vs hwfly chips.

Of course if new chips are improved and designed for OLED outright, then I'd go for those if availability/price was the same.

I have an installer that will eventually put a SX lite into mine, and they are aware of the need for Spacecraft V2, so I'm not too worried of future issues and it has the USB port in case new fw needs to be added.


----------



## KaiN69420 (Feb 13, 2022)

de9ed said:


> I do install for mail in and premodded. pm me for details


De9ed did my Oled for me.  Very fast, great communication, and reasonable prices.  If you see some of my earlier posts, you will notice I tried to do an HWFLY lite in Oled (before the new Oled specific version) and botched it pretty bad.  De9ed helped me out and I have a wonderful Oled with Oled chip running beautifully.


----------



## zal16 (Feb 14, 2022)

I installed an Sx core (with Spacecraft 0.2.0 burned) on my OLED switch, but I am not able to backup the NAND (and not start OFW/CFW).
The following is happening: As soon as I turn on the console and enter Hekate, I can access the eMMC information (on the console info tab), but after about 30-50 seconds, an error appears saying that the eMMC is working in slow mode, hence when I try to access the console info again, an error message appears "eMMC init fail". When I try to restart the console, I can no longer enter into Hekate and the SX core light is cyan (not green) and I can only access Hekate again if I reinsert the battery connector.

If I try to back up the eMMC (when it is recognized), it only goes up to 3-5% and gives the same error of working in slow mode and eventually "eMMC init fail" also appears.
DAT0 adapter resistance is about 740-760 ohms


----------



## doom95 (Feb 14, 2022)

zal16 said:


> I installed an Sx core (with Spacecraft 0.2.0 burned) on my OLED switch, but I am not able to backup the NAND (and not start OFW/CFW).
> The following is happening: As soon as I turn on the console and enter Hekate, I can access the eMMC information (on the console info tab), but after about 30-50 seconds, an error appears saying that the eMMC is working in slow mode, hence when I try to access the console info again, an error message appears "eMMC init fail". When I try to restart the console, I can no longer enter into Hekate and the SX core light is cyan (not green) and I can only access Hekate again if I reinsert the battery connector.
> 
> If I try to back up the eMMC (when it is recognized), it only goes up to 3-5% and gives the same error of working in slow mode and eventually "eMMC init fail" also appears.
> DAT0 adapter resistance is about 740-760 ohms


Sounds like signal integrity issues. The OLED + sx core is a poor combination. Did you cut off the emmc plug part? How long are your wires?


----------



## zal16 (Feb 14, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Sounds like signal integrity issues. The OLED + sx core is a poor combination. Did you cut off the emmc plug part? How long are your wires?


I don't cut the plug part, the DAT0 wire is about 10cm, the others, I cut it as short as possible


----------



## doom95 (Feb 14, 2022)

Make DAT0 also as short as you can. Don't boot into HOS while you have signal integrity issues as it is likely to corrupt your NAND before you have a backup.


----------



## zal16 (Feb 14, 2022)

(Double-post)


----------



## zal16 (Feb 14, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Make DAT0 also as short as you can. Don't boot into HOS while you have signal integrity issues as it is likely to corrupt your NAND before you have a backup.


In fact, with the short time that eMMC was working, I managed to back up the most important partitions (boot0/1, prodinfo and prodinfof) and rescued the BIS Keys via Lockpick.
I will try to improve my wiring.
Hope I didn't fuck up my eMMC.


----------



## zal16 (Feb 14, 2022)

The 10 - 50 ohm resistor attached on DAT0 line is really necessary?


----------



## yee (Feb 14, 2022)

Installer set up the OLED chip for me yesterday. Noticed that the left two solder points are using what appears to be sleeveless/bare wires. Is this going to be an issue?

The Switch itself works fine and I'm pleased overall. Glitches within 5 seconds and works without a hitch. A bit of a bug when shutting down though where it goes back into Hekate so I have to shut it down through there.

P.S. Does anyone know that that pink gunk is? Thermal paste to transfer heat from the heatpipe to the metal shield on top?


----------



## de9ed (Feb 14, 2022)

yee said:


> View attachment 298144
> 
> Installer set up the OLED chip for me yesterday. Noticed that the left two solder points are using what appears to be sleeveless/bare wires. Is this going to be an issue?
> 
> ...


those are enamel wires, and they are ok. 

setup autohosoff from Hekate setting

the pink gunk is thermal paste from heat pipe to the metal shield


----------



## zal16 (Feb 15, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Make DAT0 also as short as you can. Don't boot into HOS while you have signal integrity issues as it is likely to corrupt your NAND before you have a backup.


I redid the wiring, but now the sx core flashes magenta for 3-5 seconds and then turns cyan (green+blue led) and the console boots OFW normally.

I believe I have to reset the training (yellow light), but I don't know how to do that


----------



## doom95 (Feb 15, 2022)

depends on modchip firmware, what are you running?
white is generally emmc <--> fpga issue


----------



## zal16 (Feb 15, 2022)

doom95 said:


> depends on modchip firmware, what are you running?
> white is generally emmc <--> fpga issue


I'm running vanilla spacecraft 0.2


----------



## doom95 (Feb 15, 2022)

try if you can access the emmc over USB; poweroff the switch, plug in the USB, connect over putty to the COM port that appears, hit enter on the prompt, then press 'e' (for erase payload) and 'p' (for program payload), that'll tell you if modchip can communicate with the emmc


----------



## zal16 (Feb 15, 2022)

doom95 said:


> try if you can access the emmc over USB; poweroff the switch, plug in the USB, connect over putty to the COM port that appears, hit enter on the prompt, then press 'e' (for erase payload) and 'p' (for program payload), that'll tell you if modchip can communicate with the emmc


Sorry, i'm not understanding. You can explan better?

Which USB port are you talking about? Console? Modchip?

Prompt? Where?


----------



## doom95 (Feb 15, 2022)

modchip usb. prompt after opening USB connection in putty


----------



## zal16 (Feb 15, 2022)

doom95 said:


> modchip usb. prompt after opening USB connection in putty


Now I understand, PuTTY is a program.

Is any pre-configuration required?

What will the program say if the modchip sucefully communicate with emmc? 
What if I can't communicate?

sorry for the many questions


----------



## doom95 (Feb 15, 2022)

it'll tell you in clear English, very easy to use


----------



## zal16 (Feb 15, 2022)

I need to remove the battery connector?


----------



## zal16 (Feb 17, 2022)

doom95 said:


> it'll tell you in clear English, very easy to use


BAD00110?
What does this mean?


----------



## Mirivedan (Feb 17, 2022)

sean222 said:


> New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
> 
> TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision


i didnt receive the chip yet but how do you solder the part in pic 8  ?


----------



## doom95 (Feb 17, 2022)

zal16 said:


> I need to remove the battery connector?


Modchip can't communicate with eMMC. Check your dat0, cmd and clk points (measure voltage drop in diode mode on DMM). Possibly your 3v3 but that's most likely good.


----------



## zal16 (Feb 17, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Modchip can't communicate with eMMC. Check your dat0, cmd and clk points (measure voltage drop in diode mode on DMM). Possibly your 3v3 but that's most likely good.


Bad connection on RST point cause this too?


----------



## doom95 (Feb 17, 2022)

No


----------



## zal16 (Feb 17, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Modchip can't communicate with eMMC. Check your dat0, cmd and clk points (measure voltage drop in diode mode on DMM). Possibly your 3v3 but that's most likely good.


DMM?  What does this mean?

Sorry, english isn't my native language


----------



## doom95 (Feb 17, 2022)

digital multimeter


----------



## zal16 (Feb 17, 2022)

doom95 said:


> digital multimeter


Thanks.

I should check minuciously these points today, at night.


----------



## zal16 (Feb 17, 2022)

If it's a issue with the FPGA, is there any way to fix it or will I have to buy another modchip?


----------



## zal16 (Feb 17, 2022)

managed to solve my problems, they were making a very simple mistake, I had just reversed the CLK and RST wires


----------



## zal16 (Feb 18, 2022)

I was able to backup my NAND and prod.keys, but now every time I turn it on, the modchip shows a steady yellow light (not blinking), what could it be?

I did the reset training, after finishes, the payload is injected succefully, but if i power off the console and turn on again, the steady yellow light returns.


----------



## doom95 (Feb 18, 2022)

please contact me in pm


----------



## zal16 (Feb 18, 2022)

I sent you a pm


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Feb 19, 2022)

sean222 said:


> New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
> 
> TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision


 I saw on youtube someone made a new cable kit so maybe this will make the install process faster


----------



## lufeig (Feb 19, 2022)

I’ve seen reports saying that U shaped ribbon is kinda sh*tty because of its build quality and stress that it puts on the CLK pad. You have to be extra careful with it.


----------



## Acide0 (Feb 19, 2022)

On my side this flex cable that need to bend over resistors is garbage,I see it even without installing it lol. When I received the first one I decide to go with wires insted less risky and its work flawlessly.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 19, 2022)

For anyone that's done the 6 wire chips, has anyone found that some install it trains/glitches really fast and others takes a long long time in training mode?

edit: nevermind, somehow my dat0 adapter lost connection to the point under the emmc chip, not sure how that happened since it was anchored in place.


----------



## sean222 (Feb 19, 2022)

Mirivedan said:


> i didnt receive the chip yet but how do you solder the part in pic 8  ?


Point D in the lower left? I tinned solder on the bottom side, then heated it from the top to melt the solder underneath and connect to point D.


----------



## sean222 (Feb 19, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> I saw on youtube someone made a new cable kit so maybe this will make the install process faster




Nice! Yes....this chip has poorly designed cables, but I got it working fine and it's still running great.


----------



## dude1 (Feb 19, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> They don't know it's broken, he swapped the serial numbers and probably said it was a repeat gift, would be sold as new or open box, so whoever buys it gets screwed. If he returned it saying it was broken there'd be no reason to swap the serial numbers.
> 
> Make sense?
> 
> Edit, I re read the post and do see he stated it was defective. Why swap the serial numbers then, doesn't really add up to be honest.


I’m confused by your confusion.

The guy claims he swapped serials and returned it as defective this makes perfect sense.

many retailers sometimes Walmart included put the serial number on the receipt/invoice also the same serial numbers on the box and console.

so the reason someone would return a dead one as defective and swap the back is because they aren’t using the OG box they’re using the box the new one came in.
so bare minimum the unit needs to match the box and probably also needs to match a corresponding serial number on the receipt/invoice.



TheUnknownOne said:


> I still say if you broke it yourself, then that's on you.


not that I’m advocating for it #DoNotCrime

 but I do understand wanting to rip off giant multinational conglomerate that rip us off constantly knowing that ultimately they have budgets for shrinkage and will eventually return it back to the manufacturer and fundamentally none of us would need to bother with mod chips if Nintendo gave us access to our own hardware As they morally should.

so when you get right down to it it’s technically Nintendo‘s fault  As well as his that his console got broken while attempting to let him gain access to it via the modchip, if Nintendo truly doesn’t like that a small minority will bend the rules to use modchips all they need to do is comply and give us the access that we rightfully paid for when we bought the hardware .


----------



## Der_Blockbuster (Feb 19, 2022)

dude1 said:


> so when you get right down to it it’s technically Nintendo‘s fault As well as his that his console got broken while attempting to let him gain access to it via the modchip, if Nintendo truly doesn’t like that a small minority will bend the rules to use modchips all they need to do is comply and give us the access that we rightfully paid for when we bought the hardware .


Technically, it's the banks fault If I rob them, because why can't they just give us all the money we want this is stupid !!11 /s

I'd be worried tho if I was him, normally these things get checked by Nintendo and if he left his credentials he'll probably have to pay it back maybe. Idk about Walmarts tho. Maybe they dont care.


----------



## dude1 (Feb 19, 2022)

Der_Blockbuster said:


> Technically, it's the banks fault If I rob them, because why can't they just give us all the money we want this is stupid !!11 /s


If the bank stole your money first and you rob them to get back what was yours I would agree with sarcastic you, otherwise it’s not a fair comparison.

a fairer comparison would be you sell me a house, but when I go to move in I find you never moved out, while you'll let me go into some rooms your holding the keys and are barring access to others and have no intentions of moving out ever, all the while I have no recourse.
the reason companies can get away with this is to many law makers are too out of touch or corrupted by lobbyists to understand and since your average Joe can't withstand the costs of a legal battle war of attrition Nintendo,Sony M$ , Apple and basically every electronics company in the modern era gets away with the crime.

now just because they stole your access wouldn't give you the legal right to break the law to re-claim it but as I stated above I can understand the mentality and agree with it on a moral level despite the laws not catching up to it.

we pay for hardware, it’s supposed to be ours to do with what we please, artificially stealing our legally purchased access is if nothing else immoral, answering immorality with further immorality to offset the initial injustice doesn’t make you the most virtuous but it’s understandable.

it makes sense they can bar a modified console from the online service, that’s theirs they can write whatever terms and conditions they want and if we agree to them when we join it’s like a IRL membership club we’ve agreed to terms.
If we break a contract we agree to we should be able to lose access to there privately owned walled garden.



Der_Blockbuster said:


> I'd be worried tho if I was him, normally these things get checked by Nintendo and if he left his credentials he'll probably have to pay it back maybe. Idk about Walmarts tho. Maybe they dont care.


Who knows, the unknown would be one of the main reasons I wouldn’t think of doing it.
I know in the case of Best Buy and Amazon they often sell returned electronics as pallets on auction sites etc.  heck one of Best Buy subsidiaries is one of those auction sites.
it’s even spawned  a cottage industry of small businesses that buy sell electronics to repair them legitimately as well as YouTube channels that are actually quite fun to watch
But I digress,  I know most big box retailers  are supposed to dispose of an item or return it to the manufacturer, The reason some sell it as bulk  e-waste is it then becomes a new revenue stream rather than throwing it out plus they get the good press of not being the one to throw the item in the landfill if that ends up being its final destination.

 none of them are supposed to sell it as open box but we do hear stories of that happening occasionally  so policy isn’t always followed, which just adds additional unknowns.

The problem the poster would run into hypothetically is Nintendo would have to be the one that would come after him, technically they would need to get a court order to get the company to release his private information to them even if they took it down because Walmart isn’t supposed to open the console and if it won’t turn on there’s no way for them to verify the serial number any other way .


probably not worth the headache for a lot of people which is why it probably is such a fringe minority that would do such a thing, for every random news story you hear of a fraud ring getting caught there’s probably hundreds of thousands of people that do it as a one off kind of scenario like the OP


----------



## dude1 (Feb 19, 2022)

Accidental duplicate


----------



## Mirivedan (Feb 20, 2022)

Hey everybody , buying some tools to solder my own chip.
Do i need at any moment a hot air solder pls ?


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Feb 20, 2022)

Mirivedan said:


> Hey everybody , buying some tools to solder my own chip.
> Do i need at any moment a hot air solder pls ?


no, for an iron i would recommend the pinecil its a very good iron. do not get one of those ones that just plug into a wall and have no temp controls that youll find in the store https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/ you can use your switch charger to power it


----------



## Mirivedan (Feb 20, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> no, for an iron i would recommend the pinecil its a very good iron. do not get one of those ones that just plug into a wall and have no temp controls that youll find in the store https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/ you can use your switch charger to power it


thanks my frd for the answer and the recommendation. im far from the US so i ordered Ali stuff and i bought a temp controlled iron that seems ok for 45$.


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Feb 20, 2022)

Mirivedan said:


> thanks my frd for the answer and the recommendation. im far from the US so i ordered Ali stuff and i bought a temp controlled iron that seems ok for 45$.


does it take t12 tips?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 21, 2022)

dude1 said:


> I’m confused by your confusion.
> 
> The guy claims he swapped serials and returned it as defective this makes perfect sense.
> 
> ...


There was no reason for him to swap the serial numbers and return it as defective when he could have just returned the original one as defective. How is this confusing?

People using mod chips is what it is, but if you break your console trying to install one yourself that's not the manufacturers fault. That's your own fault. Then again I successfully modded my oled without issue so whatever. 

This used to be a huge thing for people to do way back in the ps2/Xbox days with broken consoles and they'd swap the cases and return as a repeat gift, it would then go back on the shelf for an unsuspecting consumer to purchase.


----------



## fragged (Feb 21, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> does it take t12 tips?


It's basically a better version of the TS-100 & uses the same tips.


----------



## dude1 (Feb 21, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> There was no reason for him to swap the serial numbers and return it as defective when he could have just returned the original one as defective. How is this confusing?
> 
> People using mod chips is what it is, but if you break your console trying to install one yourself that's not the manufacturers fault. That's your own fault. Then again I successfully modded my oled without issue so whatever.
> 
> This used to be a huge thing for people to do way back in the ps2/Xbox days with broken consoles and they'd swap the cases and return as a repeat gift, it would then go back on the shelf for an unsuspecting consumer to purchase.


Depends when the original was bought, if he broke it the day after buying it or something like that then sure he could’ve returned the original rather than buying a replacement And replacing the dead one as the if it was the new one, but I’m assuming based on the OPs on post the one he broke is older than 15 to 30 days (The typical return. For electronics at most stores)

but assuming the dead one was older than its return Period (which is very likely because the switch OLED has been out since early October) then he was required to swap the serial number to ensure that he would get away with the return. (for reasoning see above)

Typically things aren’t returned as repeat gift when you’re trying to do return fraud.
 The main reason there’s more scrutiny, it’s easier to say that it’s defective, There’s less likelihood anyone will want to test features Etc.
year-round defective returns are more common, the only time there’s a major uptick in “repeat gift“ excuse is November to January and that’s because of holiday return Periods at most retailers Being more lax ( it’s really the rental Period For the unscrupulous.)
and while I have seen returns at my various jobs over the years that were falsely returned during the holiday return period it’s hard to say what percentage it would be because there are plenty of legit gift returns but once again that’s not the real point because usually once again people return claiming it’s defective More often than not.
 it’s also Arguably the more moral option because you know you’re not gonna be screwing over anyone else. (for reasoning see above)


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 21, 2022)

Hi. I might purcase an original SXOS for my OLED. What would be the cables to use with the original SXOS core? I mean the ribbons and DAT0 ribbon too.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 21, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Hi. I might purcase an original SXOS for my OLED. What would be the cables to use with the original SXOS core? I mean the ribbons and DAT0 ribbon too.


Why buy an original chip, just get the oled specific one


----------



## zal16 (Feb 22, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Why buy an original chip, just get the oled specific one


I succefully instaled on my switch, but i have a hard work to put her to operate correctly with the console


----------



## de9ed (Feb 22, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Hi. I might purcase an original SXOS for my OLED. What would be the cables to use with the original SXOS core? I mean the ribbons and DAT0 ribbon too.



I hope you meant SX Lite. I have installed a few sx core, never a good experience.

Why not just do the regular OLED ones, I have done 30+ of those one already and pretty reliable


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 22, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Why buy an original chip, just get the oled specific one



Because I could get this one for like 100$. Way cheaper



zal16 said:


> I succefully instaled on my switch, but i have a hard work to put her to operate correctly with the console



What is it so hard about it?



de9ed said:


> I hope you meant SX Lite. I have installed a few sx core, never a good experience.
> 
> Why not just do the regular OLED ones, I have done 30+ of those one already and pretty reliable



I meant this one:


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Feb 22, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Because I could get this one for like 100$. Way cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Dont do it


----------



## de9ed (Feb 22, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Because I could get this one for like 100$. Way cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Does it looks like there is solder mask on it already? If it is the original SX core. You could try it without the resistor trick first


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 22, 2022)

de9ed said:


> Does it looks like there is solder mask on it already? If it is the original SX core. You could try it without the resistor trick first


You mean that small green dot on the top left of the board?

What is the resistor trick?


----------



## de9ed (Feb 22, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> You mean that small green dot on the top left of the board?
> 
> What is the resistor trick?


10 to 50 ohm resistor on dat0 line. I would try 10 first


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 22, 2022)

So what exactly is the problem with those SX core on OLED, when you rule out the physical fitting?
And what is the resistor trick supposed to do?


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 22, 2022)

de9ed said:


> 10 to 50 ohm resistor on dat0 line. I would try 10 first



I'm not aware of that. I intend to use that gold ribbon to avoid to solder wires underneath the chip. I don't have everything I need to do remove and solder back the DAT0 line chip. So, what are we talking about here?


----------



## de9ed (Feb 22, 2022)

The dat0 line for the sxcore has small issue (with initialize the emmc). A resistor might do the trick (as long as it is between the dat0 and the modchip)


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 22, 2022)

de9ed said:


> The dat0 line for the sxcore has small issue (with initialize the emmc). A resistor might do the trick (as long as it is between the dat0 and the modchip)


A timing or voltage issue?

What about the SX core with OLED? What is the reason to avoid?


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 22, 2022)

de9ed said:


> The dat0 line for the sxcore has small issue (with initialize the emmc). A resistor might do the trick (as long as it is between the dat0 and the modchip)


Oh crap...
Are there any pictures where to place that resistor? People go for smd resistors? I only have 1202 format ones at han!


----------



## de9ed (Feb 22, 2022)

Quezacotl said:


> A timing or voltage issue?
> 
> What about the SX core with OLED? What is the reason to avoid?


speed of the transfer is the issue.


HelloShitty said:


> Oh crap...
> Are there any pictures where to place that resistor? People go for smd resistors? I only have 1202 format ones at han!


any resistor work, just slap it on the modchip side or the dat0 adapter side


----------



## zal16 (Feb 23, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Because I could get this one for like 100$. Way cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> ...


in addition to installing the 6 wires (3.3v, GND, CLK, CMD, RST and DAT0) it is necessary to add 3 more wires, which go to the CPU ribbon. it is also necessary to cut a piece of the metal cover, because the sx core is too big


----------



## zal16 (Feb 23, 2022)

de9ed said:


> 10 to 50 ohm resistor on dat0 line. I would try 10 first


I put a 100 ohm resistor and the glitch works so fast


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 23, 2022)

zal16 said:


> in addition to installing the 6 wires (3.3v, GND, CLK, CMD, RST and DAT0) it is necessary to add 3 more wires, which go to the CPU ribbon. it is also necessary to cut a piece of the metal cover, because the sx core is too big



Ok, I have this image. I think it is only missing GND
https://i.ibb.co/CPBrPB3/IMG-3547.jpg




zal16 said:


> I put a 100 ohm resistor and the glitch works so fast



But is this resistor in series between DAT0 underneath the NAND and the point on the other end (which is in the ribbon) ? Do you have an image so that I can make sure how the resistor should be placed?


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 23, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Ok, I have this image. I think it is only missing GND
> https://i.ibb.co/CPBrPB3/IMG-3547.jpg
> 
> 
> ...


https://i.imgur.com/N9uNhFl.png
EDIT: This diagram i found on the net is not that good i think. The 3V3 point is permanent 3V3, as the one similar looking caps above is the one for when Switch is actually turned on. The other is that when i connect CPU3, it's like the modchip crashes. When it's disconnected, it's atleast doing something. I still haven't got my install to work.


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 26, 2022)

Can anyone confirm the installation points? Look at the above diagram i posted.
And yes, i still cannot get it to work. The new 0.6.0 firmware diagnostic says i have problem with CPU connections.

-Does the 3V3 point need to be permanent like in the picture or the one cap above where you get 3V3 only when Switch is turned on?
-CPU3 when connected, i think it crashes the SX Core. Disconnected, and it actually does something. When reading the schematics and PCB photos, i see that CPU3 is only for Erista model. I have v2 adapter that has the CPU3(Erista point) connected to ground.
I would imagine that the SX core can see that it's grounded if it's connected, and act according, but is it supposed to? Afterall, everything is about focusing on OLED, especially on spacecraft firmwares.
-I have noticed that the resistor(i have 22R) on DAT0 line actually allows the Switch to boot past Nintendo-logo to OFW. Without it, it always hangs after Nintendo-logo.
-Do i need the SD card at all? Can i confirm that the mod works without SD? There's sdloader.enc and hwfly_toolbox.bin, but i don't know if their required in the troubleshooting.
-Anything else worth mentioning?


----------



## doom95 (Feb 26, 2022)

The diagram is wrong. Sthetix updated it on his github. Use the 3v3 point on the larger caps.

Even without SD card, on a good install you get a green light, and the OLED display will tell you that you need to insert an sdcard. From that screen you can boot into OFW by pressing VOL+/VOL- simultaneously.


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 26, 2022)

doom95 said:


> The diagram is wrong. Sthetix updated it on his github. Use the 3v3 point on the larger caps.


Appears that only thing changed is what i mentioned, the 3V3. But my other questions?


----------



## doom95 (Feb 26, 2022)

I wouldn't use the wrong modchip for an OLED. Install is hard enough as-is.

But if you insist, you can trick the firmware into thinking it's an sx-lite by pulling up pin 39 on the microcontroller to 3v3. Currently it will have a resistor to ground, that's how the firmware knows the type of board it is. That will trigger oled-compatible behavior.
CPU point 3 is not necessary.


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Feb 26, 2022)

Think i killed my oled. I install the oled chip then it was booting to stock os, realised I forgot point A. I went back and tried to solder that, the little component there got sucked into my iron I tried booting anyway but now it just boots to a purple screen.

I removed the chip and ribbon and it still boots to purple.

Anyone know what the component is so i can buy a repalcement?


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 26, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> Think i killed my oled. I install the oled chip then it was booting to stock os, realised I forgot point A. I went back and tried to solder that, the little component there got sucked into my iron I tried booting anyway but now it just boots to a purple screen.
> 
> I removed the chip and ribbon and it still boots to purple.
> 
> Anyone know what the component is so i can buy a repalcement?


I'm measuring it as 4k7 resistor.


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Feb 26, 2022)

Quezacotl said:


> I'm measuring it as 4k7 resistor.


thankyou do you know what size these are?


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 26, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> thankyou do you know what size these are?


0402(metric) 01005(imp)
EDIT: 0603(metric) 0201(imp) feels too big, but it's manageable.
I really hate that there's two measurement systems.


----------



## doom95 (Feb 26, 2022)

4k7 0201 resistor

it's the emmc clock line, and breaking that indeed results in purple screen


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 26, 2022)

doom95 said:


> I wouldn't use the wrong modchip for an OLED. Install is hard enough as-is.
> 
> But if you insist, you can trick the firmware into thinking it's an sx-lite by pulling up pin 39 on the microcontroller to 3v3. Currently it will have a resistor to ground, that's how the firmware knows the type of board it is. That will trigger oled-compatible behavior.
> CPU point 3 is not necessary.


That really changed the behavior a little. Now my Switch does is blinking green, blinking purple, solid white. Before that it immediately turned solid white.
What is actually a OLED compatible behavior? What it actually does?


----------



## doom95 (Feb 26, 2022)

different thresholds mainly

blinking green is strange, that's not a defined pattern.


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Feb 26, 2022)

Quezacotl said:


> 0402





doom95 said:


> 4k7 0201 resistor
> 
> it's the emmc clock line, and breaking that indeed results in purple screen


Thankyou I will order some. hopefully i haven't killed it. Will need another oled ribbon too since removing it ruined it


----------



## doom95 (Feb 26, 2022)

wouldn't be too crazy to hand it off at this point. these are clear indicators you should start treading very carefully on this board before it reaches a state where it becomes unservicable


----------



## kyomagi (Feb 26, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> Thankyou I will order some. hopefully i haven't killed it. Will need another oled ribbon too since removing it ruined it



Did you have your iron too hot?  its suggested not to have your iron hotter than 300c when soldering to the board.


----------



## Quezacotl (Feb 26, 2022)

kyomagi said:


> Did you have your iron too hot?  its suggested not to have your iron hotter than 300c when soldering to the board.


My iron is always 450C, and no problems. I think those accidents are by heating too long or too little.


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Feb 26, 2022)

kyomagi said:


> Did you have your iron too hot?  its suggested not to have your iron hotter than 300c when soldering to the board.


i use 360 which is always fine, i couldn't iamagine working with an iron at 300 degrees sounds like itd be impossible , i only messed it up because i forgot that point and partly reassembled so was trying to solder that without taking the board back out of the case because im dumb lol


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 26, 2022)

Quezacotl said:


> My iron is always 450C, and no problems. I think those accidents are by heating too long or too little.



Isn't that too much for thinner PCBs and small components?
I usually use mine at 360ºC ~ 370ºC and is enough for pretty much everything



Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> i use 360 which is always fine, i couldn't iamagine working with an iron at 300 degrees sounds like itd be impossible , i only messed it up because i forgot that point and partly reassembled so was trying to solder that without taking the board back out of the case because im dumb lol



Yeah, same here! About the temps, I mean!


----------



## OrganixXx (Feb 26, 2022)

HelloShitty said:


> Isn't that too much for thinner PCBs and small components?
> I usually use mine at 360ºC ~ 370ºC and is enough for pretty much everything
> 
> 
> ...



It's always a question of time. If you are fast at soldering, there is not problem. If you hold it there for while, it's not good. Typically it's not a problem solder this points with a chisel or a I-tip if you are experienced.


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 26, 2022)

OrganixXx said:


> It's always a question of time. If you are fast at soldering, there is not problem. If you hold it there for while, it's not good. Typically it's not a problem solder this points with a chisel or a I-tip if you are experienced.



Yes, but you're taking risks that are not needed I guess. If you don't have enough experience or don't practice a bit, it's not higher temps that gonna get you done. If you have little experience, then you likely won't need those temps, I guess. Just an opinion. I only go 400ºC or so when there are bigger components with metal surfaces or so.


----------



## doom95 (Feb 26, 2022)

400-450° is idiotic. you burn your flux way too quick. it needs time to properly activate.
instead of using >100° too much as a heat buffer, get an iron where temperature is measured close to the tip with active power response so temps don't drop (as much) when transferring heat.


----------



## OrganixXx (Feb 26, 2022)

Typically 370 °C are good for the most things. I just wanted to say that experience and soldering time are more important than temperature. You can mess up even with the right temperature if you have no idea what you are doing. This is not a job for people who have never held a soldering iron in their hands.


----------



## HelloShitty (Feb 26, 2022)

OrganixXx said:


> Typically 370 °C are good for the most things. I just wanted to say that experience and soldering time are more important than temperature. You can mess up even with the right temperature if you have no idea what you are doing. This is not a job for people who have never held a soldering iron in their hands.


Absolutely, but without the proper experience, no temperature will help you! It's a matter of finding the sweet spot and knowing (or at least having an idea) of max temps the components we are working with, can withstand. Datasheets can help in extreme situations


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Mar 2, 2022)

Quezacotl said:


> 0402(metric) 01005(imp)
> EDIT: 0603(metric) 0201(imp) feels too big, but it's manageable.
> I really hate that there's two measurement systems.





doom95 said:


> 4k7 0201 resistor
> 
> it's the emmc clock line, and breaking that indeed results in purple screen


0402 is too big I managed to get it attached but had to put it sideways and then use 0.1mm wires to attach one end of it so i think the size is 0201? Device boots with that replaced. 

Chip doesn't work though because I messed up the top ribbon cable. If anyone has the oled chip could you check which points on the ribbon correspond to what pads on the chip please. theres a bunch of test pads so I assume it can be wired up using those


----------



## Quezacotl (Mar 2, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> 0402 is too big I managed to get it attached but had to put it sideways and then use 0.1mm wires to attach one end of it so i think the size is 0201? Device boots with that replaced.
> 
> Chip doesn't work though because I messed up the top ribbon cable. If anyone has the oled chip could you check which points on the ribbon correspond to what pads on the chip please. theres a bunch of test pads so I assume it can be wired up using those


I compared it with my 0603 chips and seemed it was definitely one size smaller. Apparently even one more. And which is confusing, 0201 is present on both units. 

https://github.com/sthetix/OLED-DIAGRAM
There you can find the pinouts for cables.


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Mar 2, 2022)

Quezacotl said:


> I compared it with my 0603 chips and seemed it was definitely one size smaller. Apparently even one more. And which is confusing, 0201 is present on both units.
> 
> https://github.com/sthetix/OLED-DIAGRAM
> There you can find the pinouts for cables.


Thanks that github doesn't have this board though. The guy who made it doesn't want to buy one of the oled chips for some reason i asked him about them on twitter previously.

 I managed to figure it out anyway here is a picture for the wiring incase anyone else messes up their ribbon cable


----------



## ViOTeK (Mar 3, 2022)

Regarding soldering temperatures;  I picked up one of the new Aixun T3B soldering stations with the T115 handle and various tips, and compared to the T12 unit I had it's incredibly quick to heat, keeps temperature stable, and the tips are much, much smaller.  I've never been able to work with such low temps this well.  300C is plenty for most, and solder melts fast even at 280C.  I wouldn't go over 350 at any point with this on this install job now.  Also note that crappy solder takes more heat to melt, use good product.


----------



## Mocah (Mar 3, 2022)

Thanks for the teardown!


----------



## gokuz (Mar 3, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Regarding soldering temperatures;  I picked up one of the new Aixun T3B soldering stations with the T115 handle and various tips, and compared to the T12 unit I had it's incredibly quick to heat, keeps temperature stable, and the tips are much, much smaller.  I've never been able to work with such low temps this well.  300C is plenty for most, and solder melts fast even at 280C.  I wouldn't go over 350 at any point with this on this install job now.  Also note that crappy solder takes more heat to melt, use good product.


Its not about the tip, more so about the wattage it can pump out. You can use T12 tips on JBC clones too.

Aixun is a JBC clone that uses 200W. 
Most T12 clones are 72W only.

Don't forget, JBC clones are expensive compared to T12 clones. Almost 5X the price.


----------



## ViOTeK (Mar 3, 2022)

The T3B station I picked up is 96w and the B version only supports the T210 or T115 handles.  I was considering getting a T3A as well just because it does indeed support a wider variety of, albeit larger, handle and tip combinations.  That said, the T115 tips feel very appropriately sized when working under a microscope, but are indeed quite expensive, even compared to the T210 versions.  I will probably pick up the T210 handle just because of that.  I'm sure some pro will chime in and call it garbage but, for a hobbiest, it was much cheaper then a real JBC station, and so far has performed amazingly well.


----------



## gokuz (Mar 3, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> The T3B station I picked up is 96w and the B version only supports the T210 or T115 handles.  I was considering getting a T3A as well just because it does indeed support a wider variety of, albeit larger, handle and tip combinations.  That said, the T115 tips feel very appropriately sized when working under a microscope, but are indeed quite expensive, even compared to the T210 versions.  I will probably pick up the T210 handle just because of that.  I'm sure some pro will chime in and call it garbage but, for a hobbiest, it was much cheaper then a real JBC station, and so far has performed amazingly well.



JBC clones are definitely the better irons/tips in the market but its prices are high for common hobbyist. TS100/T12 are sufficient for console modding tbh. I'd argue getting a microscope from the price difference is a better choice.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 3, 2022)

I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?


----------



## gokuz (Mar 3, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?


Have a tweezer on your *right* hand and alcohol dipped cotton swab on your *left*. Slowly scrape it and clean it right away. Can't go wrong this way.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 3, 2022)

gokuz said:


> Have a tweezer on your *right* hand and alcohol dipped cotton swab on your *left*. Slowly scrape it and clean it right away. Can't go wrong this way.


I've modded a couple OLED's already, what I meant was I haven't screwed up any of them yet.  I was just wondering what happens if you mess up that point.

I've ordered one of those grinding pens for doing repairs and this will likely be a much better way to expose that CLK point.


----------



## doom95 (Mar 3, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?


The 'point' is a bit of trace going to a via, which ends up underneath the eMMC itself. If this trace is damaged, or the via is damaged, or if either is bridged to the surround ground plane, then there will be no communication possible between cpu and emmc, so bootrom can't execute the bct.  Either the screen will remain off or show purple.


----------



## Quezacotl (Mar 3, 2022)

it's just a signal and not vcc. And how electronic boards work, if you ground a signal, it doesn't break anything, just malfunctioning. In this instance, doesn't boot because clock signal is interrupted.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 3, 2022)

Quezacotl said:


> it's just a signal and not vcc. And how electronic boards work, if you ground a signal, it doesn't break anything, just malfunctioning. In this instance, doesn't boot because clock signal is interrupted.


This is what I thought, im sure there's quite a few people who have or will end up doing this, thankfully I did not, that point is insanely tiny.  But that's what a microscope is for


----------



## Quezacotl (Mar 3, 2022)

I flashed 0.6.1 and this is what it does. Nothing else. No effect if i have 0.6b2 bootloader or the new.
When i flash 0.6b2 back, it brings me with solid while after a second of flashing other things.

I installed a new CPU adapter, but no difference. I guess my SX core is just broken.

Edit: now i switched the ID pin back to as SX core when it was as SX lite. Now it successfully glitched and is working! Yay! Finally!


----------



## Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 (Mar 3, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I've modded a couple OLED's already, what I meant was I haven't screwed up any of them yet.  I was just wondering what happens if you mess up that point.
> 
> I've ordered one of those grinding pens for doing repairs and this will likely be a much better way to expose that CLK point.


that seems like a bad choice since theyre not accurate like just scraping with a tweezer youll remove solder mask all around on the ground pad which will make bridging easy


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 4, 2022)

Shadow_The_Hedgehog82 said:


> that seems like a bad choice since theyre not accurate like just scraping with a tweezer youll remove solder mask all around on the ground pad which will make bridging easy


Good to know. I'll practice on some dead boards first. 

It was bought really for doing repairs though. So I'll just use one of my tweezers instead


----------



## doom95 (Mar 9, 2022)

Using the finer bit and a light touch makes it very easy. Takes maybe 2 seconds to expose the bad. Works better than tweezers, but either is fine.


----------



## innercy (Mar 9, 2022)

i just got modded oled with oled chip. unfortunately it unable to read 1tb pny sd but no issue with 512gb sandisk. is there anything i can do about it?


----------



## doom95 (Mar 9, 2022)

if flashable modchip, use firmware 0.6.2
else, flash sdloader.enc from 0.6.2 using hwfly toolbox.


----------



## innercy (Mar 9, 2022)

doom95 said:


> if flashable modchip, use firmware 0.6.2
> else, flash sdloader.enc from 0.6.2 using hwfly toolbox.


first try it boot. thanks. u re the best


----------



## JustaGuywearingPants (Mar 14, 2022)

Hi guys need help
I installed a hx core to a switch, everything worked, it fell down, didnt work anymore, tried to resolder sp1 and sp2 and one of them burned off so i wanted to install the same chip to another console but the flex cable was burned out, i tried to install it with the backside plates but on the new switch i still ended up with a instant green to red led switch

Ive already ordered a oled specific chip, my problem now is after removing the hwfly core from the new switch (but without removing any wires or dag0 adapter from the switch itsself) the switch is not bootable anymore… there are no burninga that i could spot and no solder bridges… the seitch just stays with a black screen even when a charger is plugged in but i can feel that the cpu is getting warm. Lcd connector looks fine also

Will the oled specific chip maybe fix it, is the nand corrupted by the old chip?


----------



## izy (Mar 14, 2022)

JustaGuywearingPants said:


> Hi guys need help
> I installed a hx core to a switch, everything worked, it fell down, didnt work anymore, tried to resolder sp1 and sp2 and one of them burned off so i wanted to install the same chip to another console but the flex cable was burned out, i tried to install it with the backside plates but on the new switch i still ended up with a instant green to red led switch
> 
> Ive already ordered a oled specific chip, my problem now is after removing the hwfly core from the new switch (but without removing any wires or dag0 adapter from the switch itsself) the switch is not bootable anymore… there are no burninga that i could spot and no solder bridges… the seitch just stays with a black screen even when a charger is plugged in but i can feel that the cpu is getting warm. Lcd connector looks fine also
> ...


Either the drop dmgd it or your soldering skills did or it's not properly cleaned up after removal 

I wouldn't recommend you installing another chip up you literally burnt caps off and melted the flex cable


----------



## JustaGuywearingPants (Mar 14, 2022)

izy said:


> Either the drop dmgd it or your soldering skills did or it's not properly cleaned up after removal
> 
> I wouldn't recommend you installing another chip up you literally burnt caps off and melted the flex cable


But this is a new switch wirh no burned caps, no shorts, no visible burnings

Cpu is getting hot but thats it when trying to boot

Do i hve to remove all wires and the dat0 or is it just bricked


----------



## FR0ZN (Mar 14, 2022)

Afaik the payload is written to BOOT0, which breaks the signature.
The black screen indicates that the switch might be in RCM mode - you could check that with TegraRcmGUI.

The process for Auto RCM is to "destroy" the BOOT0 signature, that's why it came to mind.

The right process to remove the modchip probably would be to restore a clean BOOT0 backup and THEN removing the modchip.

EDIT: @doom95 - is it possible to add an "Dump clean BOOT0" option to the HWFLY Toolbox?
If I'm not mistaken, there is currently no way to get a dump of BOOT0 without the payload from Hekate.
An option in the toolbox, that dumps BOOT0 without the SD Loader inside would be awesome <3


----------



## fragged (Mar 14, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> Afaik the payload is written to BOOT0, which breaks the signature.
> The black screen indicates that the switch might be in RCM mode - you could check that with TegraRcmGUI.
> 
> The process for Auto RCM is to "destroy" the BOOT0 signature, that's why it came to mind.
> ...


I know it's possible to restore a clean boot0 with the chip installed. My buddy did it when trying to figure out exactly what chip was put in his OLED. I can try to find out how he went about doing it, though I know it put his chip in a weird state where it wouldn't glitch for a while, I think he had to reset the chip over USB Serial.


----------



## FR0ZN (Mar 14, 2022)

fragged said:


> I know it's possible to restore a clean boot0 with the chip installed. My buddy did it when trying to figure out exactly what chip was put in his OLED. I can try to find out how he went about doing it, though I know it put his chip in a weird state where it wouldn't glitch for a while, I think he had to reset the chip over USB Serial.


The question is how he created a clean BOOT0 - restoring it is not an issue.
It's a chicken and egg problem.
To get the ability to dump something on a glitched Switch, the exploit needs a payload in BOOT0, which (afaik) is written once and not cleared after a successful glitch.

So when you dump it in Hekate, you dump your BOOT0 with a payload inside.

You can probably zero out the payload with a hex editor in the PC, or just generate a clean BOOT0 with the console keys.
But having such an option on the console in the toolbox (or wherever) that automates this process, would be nice.

SXOS had this abaility to restore/remove all modifications to the system afaik.


----------



## doom95 (Mar 14, 2022)

FR0ZN said:


> EDIT: @doom95 - is it possible to add an "Dump clean BOOT0" option to the HWFLY Toolbox?
> If I'm not mistaken, there is currently no way to get a dump of BOOT0 without the payload from Hekate.
> An option in the toolbox, that dumps BOOT0 without the SD Loader inside would be awesome <3


Reading/writing BOOT0 does not require glitching the device. But, in order to have a meaningful way to of dumping the BOOT0 contents, we need access to either the SD card, or expose the contents over i.e. MTP. These latter 2 obviously require tegra intervention and thus unsigned code execution, which on Mariko and later is only achieved through glitching into a user-written payload inside BOOT0. 

So yes, chicken & egg, mostly, although it'd technically be possible as a function of the firmware by dumping BOOT0 over USB. Not something I'll add though since I see absolutely no point in doing so. There's 4 identical bct entries, we corrupt only two. The firmware even has a way of restoring the 3rd/4th on empty eMMC chips. If you remove your modchip, it'll just boot from those. Next OFW update, they're all restored.


----------



## FR0ZN (Mar 14, 2022)

doom95 said:


> Reading/writing BOOT0 does not require glitching the device. But, in order to have a meaningful way to of dumping the BOOT0 contents, we need access to either the SD card, or expose the contents over i.e. MTP. These latter 2 obviously require tegra intervention and thus unsigned code execution, which on Mariko and later is only achieved through glitching into a user-written payload inside BOOT0.
> 
> So yes, chicken & egg, mostly, although it'd technically be possible as a function of the firmware by dumping BOOT0 over USB. Not something I'll add though since I see absolutely no point in doing so. There's 4 identical bct entries, we corrupt only two. The firmware even has a way of restoring the 3rd/4th on empty eMMC chips. If you remove your modchip, it'll just boot from those. Next OFW update, they're all restored.


I mean adding it as an option in the toolbox.
Isn't it possible to include an option to dump BOOT0 without the payload?
I mean, I'm no coder but the toolbox already has the ability to read/write to and from the eMMC and SD, no?
Reading BOOT0 from eMMC to the SD card w/o the payload inside doesn't seem unrealistic tbh but that's why I'm asking you 

What you say sounds perfectly fine but having a clean dump for the records is always nice imo.


----------



## doom95 (Mar 14, 2022)

You do realize that in order to execute hwfly toolbox, you need to contaminate the BOOT0 first so that you can run your own payload..?


----------



## FR0ZN (Mar 14, 2022)

doom95 said:


> You do realize that in order to execute hwfly toolbox, you need to contaminate the BOOT0 first so that you can run your own payload..?


Yes but is it not possible to read BOOT0 without the payload inside? 
Zero'ing the payload out while dumping BOOT0?


----------



## doom95 (Mar 14, 2022)

That's super pointless and won't be added


----------



## JustaGuywearingPants (Mar 14, 2022)

ok guys thanks for your help

Ive just checked if the switch is stuck in rcm and it definitly is not, my pc ist not recognizing it and tegrarcm is also not so i totaly dont know what to do

Cpu is still getting warm so there is definitly electric activity going on

Edit: after working a bit around the cpu caps the switch was finaly booting again, seems like there was one cap shorted


----------



## FR0ZN (Mar 14, 2022)

doom95 said:


> That's super pointless and won't be added


Is the payload written to an empty area in BOOT0?
Or "somewhere" random, overwriting parts of it?


----------



## HellsBoyz (Mar 16, 2022)

I have SX Lite installed on Oled, flashed it to Spacecraft 0.2. Now I want to update its firmware, to v0.6.2, what do I need to do?


----------



## ViOTeK (Mar 17, 2022)

I have an install that I updated to 0.6.2, that went fine, but it seems to get to the training stage, then after about 30 seconds, blinds orange a few times, and starts over.  Ideas where to start?  All my diode readings seem ok except dat0 is a bit high at 830.


----------



## doom95 (Mar 17, 2022)

Use USB breakout + putty to diagnose


----------



## ViOTeK (Mar 18, 2022)

Thanks, should've thought of trying that.  That said...

I FIXED IT.  YES!  Working install finally!!

Needed re-do the CPU cable was all..

You've no idea how pumped I am haha..  Thanks a ton to this community and all your help. Time to finish reassembly and play some games. Win!

** Edit: It's never that easy is it.. Got the fan and shield re-installed, tested again with a payload on SD card and, nope, orange blinky errors.. WTF.. Ok don't panic, it did work... Check the connections.. Grounding on CLK, wtf? Ooops, the heatsink screw caught and crushed the wire just ever so slightly. Moved it and stuck it out of the way with hot glue, which also sealed it up nicely. Bingo bango, works again. Thank, effin, god. 

Also, in case it happens to someone else... Partitioning the SD card in Hekate to setup a trimmed EMUMMC blows away Atmosphere, and everything else. Got the nice old "error while loading fss0" error. Had to copy it all back after. So after multiple scares, yet again.. All good now!


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 20, 2022)

ViOTeK said:


> Thanks, should've thought of trying that.  That said...
> 
> I FIXED IT.  YES!  Working install finally!!
> 
> ...


Congrats, it's always a good feeling, especially when you do it yourself.


----------



## one-piece (Mar 24, 2022)

Did





ViOTeK said:


> Any ideas on why my RST point will not show a diode reading?  Have tried with 3 multi-meters now, including a brand new one, same thing with all of them.  I only get a reading if I reverse the leads and use red on the ground and black on the RST point.  That said, with the new meter my readings are more in line with the others I've seen:
> 
> DAT0 = .700
> CLK = .695
> ...


Did you found the cause of this?, this also happened to me


----------



## randy_w (Mar 24, 2022)

one-piece said:


> Did
> Did you found the cause of this?, this also happened to me


It's normal if you don't get any reading from RST (B). Every multimeter is different, some might not push high enough voltage on diode mode so it won't even register. My oled's RST point voltage drop is about 2.7V. As long as point A B and D readings are around 700mV you are good.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 24, 2022)

For those of you using 36awg enameled wire, stop. For dat0 it is prone to losing signal. 

Stick with the UL10064 wire only.


----------



## doom95 (Mar 24, 2022)

Only if you solder it poorly. And stripping enameled wire is usually done in incorrect ways. Placing a piece of (still insulated) wire in a liquid blob will appear strongly soldered once the blob turns solid, but obviously electrical contact is unreliable.
If you use enameled wire, make sure you have proper strippers for them.


----------



## one-piece (Mar 24, 2022)

randy_w said:


> It's normal if you don't get any reading from RST (B). Every multimeter is different, some might not push high enough voltage on diode mode so it won't even register. My oled's RST point voltage drop is about 2.7V. As long as point A B and D readings are around 700mV you are good.


DAT0 always get 950 on my multimeter is 950 or nothing while moving the little part. Is that normal? Other points also give me 950, G beep and B doesn't show anything


----------



## randy_w (Mar 24, 2022)

one-piece said:


> DAT0 always get 950 on my multimeter is 950 or nothing while moving the little part. Is that normal? Other points also give me 950, G beep and B doesn't show anything


950 is a bit high but i believe it's still within range, now if you move the adapter and it disconnects, then it's not normal. Try to push the adapter inside with tweezers and reflow those anchor points, this will give some tension to the ribbon adapter and it'll make good connection to the bga ball. Alternatively you can reflow the emmc chip


----------



## one-piece (Mar 24, 2022)

randy_w said:


> 950 is a bit high but i believe it's still within range, now if you move the adapter and it disconnects, then it's not normal. Try to push the adapter inside with tweezers and reflow those anchor points, this will give some tension to the ribbon adapter and it'll make good connection to the bga ball. Alternatively you can reflow the emmc chip


Well idk what happened but i reflow the weakest joints. B and Dat0 and now it work  i thought I fried my new oled


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 26, 2022)

one-piece said:


> Well idk what happened but i reflow the weakest joints. B and Dat0 and now it work  i thought I fried my new oled


Were you using the enameled wire in 36awg? If so I still say it's cause it's junk


----------



## vailon_yg (Mar 26, 2022)

Zero wires design, please check the video:
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1PL4y1M7YJ?spm_id_from=333.999.0.0


----------



## one-piece (Mar 26, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> Were you using the enameled wire in 36awg? If so I still say it's cause it's junk



I was using the 34 awg that ModzvilleUSA recommend on his video, was before stethix latest video. 

The problem with my conections was more likely because of the cheap soldering tin that came with the soldering iron from ali. When i changed the tin it  then when smoothly, so what i did was to reflow the first conections with the new tin and it worked. 
My only past experience with soldering was to change the battery of the NGC


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 27, 2022)

one-piece said:


> I was using the 34 awg that ModzvilleUSA recommend on his video, was before stethix latest video.
> 
> The problem with my conections was more likely because of the cheap soldering tin that came with the soldering iron from ali. When i changed the tin it  then when smoothly, so what i did was to reflow the first conections with the new tin and it worked.
> My only past experience with soldering was to change the battery of the NGC


I use Kester solder.  This 'chip failing after a few days to a week' issue is starting to happen to others who have been using enameled wire from what I've been seeing as well.  I redid mine with 36awg UL10064 wire and it instant boots pretty much every single time now whereas before sometimes I'd have to wait a bit for the purple pulsing to go to green.  All wiring routed the exact same way as when I had the enameled.

But hey, to each their own.  Since you used 34awg that would likely be able to hold up a bit more than the 36awg though.


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 27, 2022)

vailon_yg said:


> View attachment 303375Zero wires design, please check the video:
> https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1PL4y1M7YJ?spm_id_from=333.999.0.0


I'm not sure why the hell anyone would bother using a chip designed for the lite still with this ribbon.  Specific OLED chips are out now so just use those.


----------



## adeptb (Mar 28, 2022)

Hello guys, need some help to reviwe my oled.
I did oled hwfly, it worked fine, but i used too big wires, so shell of the console was not fitting well. I tried to re do it and my emmc adapter was broken 
Okay, i got another emmc adapter, and after first turn on i got flashing purple -> teal light. Next turns on i got flasing purple (4-5 sec, nintendo logo rebooting several times) -> red light and OFW booting on.

DAT0 - 760
CLK - 760
A - 760
3.3v - 834
gnd - beep 
Rst - 0 no beep

Where is the problem? Could i damaged something under emmc and got two lines shorted?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Mar 28, 2022)

adeptb said:


> Hello guys, need some help to reviwe my oled.
> I did oled hwfly, it worked fine, but i used too big wires, so shell of the console was not fitting well. I tried to re do it and my emmc adapter was broken
> Okay, i got another emmc adapter, and after first turn on i got flashing purple -> teal light. Next turns on i got flasing purple (4-5 sec, nintendo logo rebooting several times) -> red light and OFW booting on.
> 
> ...


If you disconnect the wires does the switch boot ofw? If so your fine, I would say maybe it's the CPU ribbon, what readings do you get on those caps?

I re-read this, so you can boot OFW, so something is off with your install.  Got pictures of how you wired it?


----------



## adeptb (Apr 1, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> If you disconnect the wires does the switch boot ofw? If so your fine, I would say maybe it's the CPU ribbon, what readings do you get on those caps?
> 
> I re-read this, so you can boot OFW, so something is off with your install.  Got pictures of how you wired it?


Thank you for reply
I send my oled to service, they said that possibly hwfly(unflashable version with FPCB) is bricked.
Looking to the HWFLY color error codes, teal light is FPGA error.
They said that they can try to replace chip on the HWFLY and reflash it, but i dont know how they can do that, because only hwfly core and flashable oled version can be flashed.
I will post here, after they do the job


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Apr 1, 2022)

adeptb said:


> Thank you for reply
> I send my oled to service, they said that possibly hwfly(unflashable version with FPCB) is bricked.
> Looking to the HWFLY color error codes, teal light is FPGA error.
> They said that they can try to replace chip on the HWFLY and reflash it, but i dont know how they can do that, because only hwfly core and flashable oled version can be flashed.
> I will post here, after they do the job


Where did you send this to (dm me if needed).  Sounds more like someone may not know what they are doing.


----------



## vailon_yg (Apr 4, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I'm not sure why the hell anyone would bother using a chip designed for the lite still with this ribbon.  Specific OLED chips are out now so just use those.


Because the lite chip is common for lite and OLED, and we may have it already.
The new design can be used for sx core/sx lite/new Oled chip.


----------



## de9ed (Apr 4, 2022)

why would anyone use the OLED chip on a core. It take shorter time soldering the core than run jumper wire from OLED chip to the Emmc ( 6 strand ) ? 

other than for flashing hwfly-nx


----------



## urherenow (Apr 6, 2022)

I'm about to do my second attempt with better tools, and one of the "better" emmc dat 0 adapters. But I'm getting a 0.463 reading on the adapter (I haven't soldered anything yet). Any guesses why I'm getting a low reading? I don't think it's my meter, as reading the cmd resistor gives me a 0.603, which I believe is in the right ballpark...

clk is reading 0.403... so both dat 0 and clk are reading low... but not shorted to ground or anything...


----------



## adeptb (Apr 6, 2022)

urherenow said:


> I'm about to do my second attempt with better tools, and one of the "better" emmc dat 0 adapters. But I'm getting a 0.463 reading on the adapter (I haven't soldered anything yet). Any guesses why I'm getting a low reading? I don't think it's my meter, as reading the cmd resistor gives me a 0.603, which I believe is in the right ballpark...
> 
> clk is reading 0.403... so both dat 0 and clk are reading low... but not shorted to ground or anything...


I think it is ok


----------



## achm3t (Apr 10, 2022)

Hello! I’ve managed to install new OLED hwfly chip with qfn fpga to switch lite and it is doing glitch process very well showing oled’s “no sd” screen.  Entering to hekate ends with black screen. Think this happens because chip expects oled screen, not the lite one. With pheeenom’s 0.40 firmware flashed I even can run into hekate and create Emunand, but when I am trying to launch it, console goes to black screen after Atmosphere logo  (btw OFW boot option from hekate also leads to black). So the question is - is it possible to make a firmware for oled hwfly chip that would be compatible with lite console? 
I am not a programmer at all, but I think that it is purely software issue. Speed improvements in recent 0.6.2 are great and it would be nice to have it on lite, even if there would be 4 additional points to solder


----------



## Nagaa (Apr 10, 2022)

achm3t said:


> Hello! I’ve managed to install new OLED hwfly chip with qfn fpga to switch lite and it is doing glitch process very well showing oled’s “no sd” screen.  Entering to hekate ends with black screen. Think this happens because chip expects oled screen, not the lite one. With pheeenom’s 0.40 firmware flashed I even can run into hekate and create Emunand, but when I am trying to launch it, console goes to black screen after Atmosphere logo  (btw OFW boot option from hekate also leads to black). So the question is - is it possible to make a firmware for oled hwfly chip that would be compatible with lite console?
> I am not a programmer at all, but I think that it is purely software issue. Speed improvements in recent 0.6.2 are great and it would be nice to have it on lite, even if there would be 4 additional points to solder


check this topic it can be because of 3.3v point : https://gbatemp.net/threads/tutoria...oint-for-switch-lite-modchip-installs.610654/


----------



## Mat3 (Apr 14, 2022)

Hello, I got a non flashable hwfly lite inside my oled switch. It was suggested that updating the sdloader with hwfly-toolbox is still possible with that chip and will prevent the 5v issue.
Can anyone tell me what the sdloader is and what updating it does to prevent the issue?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Apr 15, 2022)

Mat3 said:


> Hello, I got a non flashable hwfly lite inside my oled switch. It was suggested that updating the sdloader with hwfly-toolbox is still possible with that chip and will prevent the 5v issue.
> Can anyone tell me what the sdloader is and what updating it does to prevent the issue?


If it's the non flashable chip you'll need to put a flashable chip into your oled as far as I'm aware.


----------



## Donnie-Burger (Apr 15, 2022)

Mat3 said:


> Hello, I got a non flashable hwfly lite inside my oled switch. It was suggested that updating the sdloader with hwfly-toolbox is still possible with that chip and will prevent the 5v issue.
> Can anyone tell me what the sdloader is and what updating it does to prevent the issue?


Yeah you can run sd loader on non flashables - Setup same way.


----------



## PogChamp_Max (Apr 19, 2022)

Hey i was curious since the OLED switch has longer battery life and seems to be the same size, i was wondering if the OLED battery is compatible with the Standard switch models


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Apr 19, 2022)

PogChamp_Max said:


> Hey i was curious since the OLED switch has longer battery life and seems to be the same size, i was wondering if the OLED battery is compatible with the Standard switch models


Its not the battery giving it better life, it's the screen technology. 

But yes it would work on a regular switch. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...


----------



## randy_w (Apr 19, 2022)

imo it's mainly the tegra x1+ soc, which is way more efficient than the original x1 chip. fan rarely spins on my oled. therefore you won't get any improvement on battery life if you swap the battery


----------



## VfrontZ1 (Apr 26, 2022)

Need some help.
my OLED installed HWFLY lite and worked fine for 1week now today it become weird.

Fan no spin (no 5v)
joycon both side detected but wont charge how ever my OLED full battery  
both joycon are work fine when plugged in another OLED (charged)
console still work fine.


----------



## heinrich_frei (Apr 26, 2022)

VfrontZ1 said:


> Need some help.
> my OLED installed HWFLY lite and worked fine for 1week now today it become weird.
> 
> Fan no spin (no 5v)
> ...


This problem has already been discussed in this thread: https://gbatemp.net/threads/switch-oled-the-fan-is-not-working-and-joycons-are-not-charging.604453/


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Apr 26, 2022)

VfrontZ1 said:


> Need some help.
> my OLED installed HWFLY lite and worked fine for 1week now today it become weird.
> 
> Fan no spin (no 5v)
> ...


Try and reflow the ALJ chip just to the left of the cpu. 

I've seen this exact thing among other odd issues happen to 3 people now and reflowing the ALJ chip fixed all 3 of them. 

Blame it on the crap manufacturing.


----------



## VfrontZ1 (Apr 27, 2022)

heinrich_frei said:


> This problem has already been discussed in this thread





TheUnknownOne said:


> Try and reflow the ALJ chip just to the left of the cpu.
> 
> I've seen this exact thing among other odd issues happen to 3 people now and reflowing the ALJ chip fixed all 3 of them.
> 
> Blame it on the crap manufacturing.


everything work fine now, thank guys


----------



## juanvlc (Apr 27, 2022)

PogChamp_Max said:


> Hey i was curious since the OLED switch has longer battery life and seems to be the same size, i was wondering if the OLED battery is compatible with the Standard switch models


The battery is the same for both consoles


----------



## impeeza (Apr 27, 2022)

the change is on the efficiency of the electronics components


----------



## malgamer (May 8, 2022)

sean222 said:


> New OLED specific chip from AliExpress installed successfully. Not recommended for quick and easy installs. The flex PCB for the CPU bends too much, puts a bit of pressure on the CPU resistors in my opinion, but it's strong enough to hold, I'm not worried. The flex PCB up top is just garbage...takes ALOT of time to get it right, I even cut off part of it and manually wired 3.3v and ground.
> 
> TLDR: This new OLED model is poorly designed, but works. Be prepared to put in extra time to install it properly.
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out if you get this revision


hi , how your modded oled ? i 'm facing a problem boot to hekate everytime i off my oled. everytime i on my oled it automatic boot to ofw directly and need restart few time to enter hekate. how bout yours?


----------



## Ichigo1990 (May 9, 2022)

ask
help
switch oled hwfly
after apply tema and reboot not boot

blink cyan after that red solid and gone
no boot hekate menu
i try 10 time not work/not boot


----------



## OrganixXx (May 15, 2022)

Saturday Done


----------



## malgamer (May 18, 2022)

Ichigo1990 said:


> ask
> help
> switch oled hwfly
> after apply tema and reboot not boot
> ...


u already solved your problem? try take out your sdcard and force shutdown your console


----------



## irvingoh999 (May 26, 2022)

TheUnknownOne said:


> I haven't done it, but what happens if you ground out the D (CLK?) Point from scraping away too much at it?


Hi, so I was installing an oled v3 chip (locked chip) and then this happened, the cpu shield touched the clk point. Now I can't boot ofw at all, black screen. Any suggestions? Thanks!


----------



## kerelenko (May 31, 2022)

Ichigo1990 said:


> ask
> help
> switch oled hwfly
> after apply tema and reboot not boot
> ...


Sthetix posted a new video explaining and showing the solution to this issue. Mainly, this issue is caused by the DAT0 adapter only connecting to the DAT0 point via friction. Reflowing the EMMC and anchoring the DAT0 adapter solves the issue. I also experience this on my OLED and the way I make sure it boots again is to force it to shut down and wait for 24hrs before turning it on again.


----------



## gokuz (Jun 3, 2022)

kerelenko said:


> Sthetix posted a new video explaining and showing the solution to this issue. Mainly, this issue is caused by the DAT0 adapter only connecting to the DAT0 point via friction. Reflowing the EMMC and anchoring the DAT0 adapter solves the issue. I also experience this on my OLED and the way I make sure it boots again is to force it to shut down and wait for 24hrs before turning it on again.




I disagree with this method, solder balls might touch if you're not careful. Better be safe than sorry. 

To secure it, just add UV mask around the sides of the whole dat0 adapter.


----------



## Hoseccan (Jul 3, 2022)

Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in  battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?


----------



## malgamer (Jul 4, 2022)

Hoseccan said:


> Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in  battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?


----------



## TheUnknownOne (Jul 4, 2022)

Hoseccan said:


> Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in  battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?



Get rid of that junk wire. Undo everything and see if the problem is still there.

If it is, reflow the ALJ chip to see if that fixes it.


----------



## egamephone (Jul 5, 2022)

Nintend Switch Oled Inner Speaker https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAA2Tx5cRT8


----------



## malgamer (Jul 5, 2022)

Hoseccan said:


> Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in  battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?


try flash the  modchip firmware to 0.62. try check your sp1 and sp2 cable in diode mode. black to the ground and red to green point and blue point.


----------



## Hoseccan (Jul 5, 2022)

Flashing on 0.62 doesn't help. I disconnected cpu cable and saw blinking red-green led. Would be hwfly work without sp1 and sp2 cap? Maybe one of them was fried


----------



## Hoseccan (Jul 5, 2022)

malgamer said:


> try flash the  modchip firmware to 0.62. try check your sp1 and sp2 cable in diode mode. black to the ground and red to green point and blue point.


Thnks!!!!  I'l will try in closest time!


----------



## zal16 (Jul 6, 2022)

Hoseccan said:


> Hello to everyone! I have some issues after instaling oled chip... when i plug in  battery, and doesn't even push power button, chip led start light with white-blue colour. Flashing firmware seems ok during process... voltage drop also OK, anyone have thoughts about this?



you said the modchip is turning on without pressing the power button.

Check the 3.3v line, maybe you soldered at wrong point at switch board.

You should solder it at the red point marked on image (on the capacitors)


----------



## rezendes (Jul 26, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> De9ed did my Oled for me.  Very fast, great communication, and reasonable prices.  If you see some of my earlier posts, you will notice I tried to do an HWFLY lite in Oled (before the new Oled specific version) and botched it pretty bad.  De9ed helped me out and I have a wonderful Oled with Oled chip running beautifully.


Was he able to resurrect the same switch that you had trouble with the install on?  I am having the same exact BAD0010D error and when I remove the chip my switch won't do anything.


----------



## rezendes (Jul 26, 2022)

KaiN69420 said:


> De9ed did my Oled for me.  Very fast, great communication, and reasonable prices.  If you see some of my earlier posts, you will notice I tried to do an HWFLY lite in Oled (before the new Oled specific version) and botched it pretty bad.  De9ed helped me out and I have a wonderful Oled with Oled chip running beautifully.


accidental double post


----------



## urherenow (Aug 29, 2022)

doom95 said:


> The 'point' is a bit of trace going to a via, which ends up underneath the eMMC itself. If this trace is damaged, or the via is damaged, or if either is bridged to the surround ground plane, then there will be no communication possible between cpu and emmc, so bootrom can't execute the bct.  Either the screen will remain off or show purple.


actually, I think this is what I did to the first OLED that I bricked. I broke the via. Is this something you have the skills to repair by running a wire from that trace, to the emmc? I Assume it would involve removing and re-balling the emmc (something I really don't think I can handle myself).


----------



## doom95 (Aug 29, 2022)

If the trace for clk is still there then it's quite easy. If not, the tegra must also be lifted and reballed to restore the trace.


----------



## urherenow (Aug 29, 2022)

doom95 said:


> If the trace for clk is still there then it's quite easy. If not, the tegra must also be lifted and reballed to restore the trace.


The trace is there. If you recall, I had a heck of a time with the solder mask (and really crappy uv light) on top of bad joints, and I ended up going too deep and breaking the via. If I go back and clean that pad really good, you can actually see a hole in the center of it. reaaaallly tiny hole...It can't be done without removing and re-flowing the emmc, can it? It would be neat, if I could revive it myself...


----------



## doom95 (Aug 29, 2022)

Would need really good pictures to judge that. But if the trace is there, don't damage it further.


----------

