# NDSL disassembly/reassembly guide



## thieves like us (Jul 31, 2008)

*GBAtemp's NDSL dis-/re-assembly guide*
Official GBAtemp Guide



is your DS Lite system out of warranty and your hinge just broke on you? or do you feel like freshing up its look with one of the aftermarket shells that are available? Feel free to leave your comments and questions in response to this guide.

*>>>>  update:  the guide is complete as of 04.aug.2008  *


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## jesterscourt (Jul 31, 2008)

Cool guide, :edit: DX is back up, so those links are now working


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## wilddenim (Jul 31, 2008)

Jesterscourt, that's because the site is down at the moment. 


Thieves - awesome guide but you have put me off from changing the case. XD It look pretty tough. More difficult than GBA SP. 

But I'm sure I'm gain confidence as time goes on. 

Thanks again for the brilliant guide!


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## Costello (Jul 31, 2008)

yeah, that is one awesome guide.
Now we're waiting on the rest of the pics


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## thieves like us (Jul 31, 2008)

Costello said:
			
		

> yeah, that is one awesome guide.
> Now we're waiting on the rest of the pics


yeah, yeah, yeah... I'm working on them now as a matter of fact.


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## Calafas (Jul 31, 2008)

Wow, great guide, however looks too complicated for me, and dont wanna risk fucking my DS up


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## Nthenorm (Aug 1, 2008)

Great guide. I've been planning on changing the case of my polar white DS for some time now, but I've been to lazy to bother. Glad I waited.


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## blueskies (Aug 1, 2008)

I wish I had this guide a few months ago. my ds lite is pretty messed up because I rushed the install. Good thing I have my ds fat though!


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## Sc4rFac3d (Aug 1, 2008)

Nice, thieves! You thinking of doing a Wii one?


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## amgupt01 (Aug 1, 2008)

Does a guide like this exist for the schmexy DS Phat? 

The only reasons why I would even bother buying a Lite is because of the Silver color wearing off on the edges of my precious Phat and looking like diluted phlegm and because of a bunch of scratches on my touch screen from when I was too retarded to get a screen protector.

I saw a bunch of replacement shells and a touch screen on DX for really cheap prices but I want to know what I'm getting into before I buy them...

Sorry if they are in really obvious locations, but I searched to the best of my ability and couldn't find a detailed guide...

~amgupt01


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## thieves like us (Aug 1, 2008)

Sc4rFac3d said:
			
		

> Nice, thieves! You thinking of doing a Wii one?
> sorry, just this one for now. (it took almost a month of my time)
> 
> QUOTE(amgupt01 @ Jul 31 2008, 08:36 PM) Does a guide like this exist for the schmexy DS Phat?


I'm not sure to what extent, but I believe that there a quite a few guides available for the older "phat" style ds.


update:
the images for re-assembly (upper shell) as now in place. that's it for tonight. I'll probably have the last section complete and up by sunday (there are a lot of pictures for that last section!


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## Jundeezy (Aug 1, 2008)

YAAAAY!!! Thanks a lot thieves! Very nice guide!


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## Sweater Fish Del (Aug 1, 2008)

Nice guide, but it came too late for me.

I already did irrepairable damage to my DS while trying to swap cases last month.  Specifically, I broke the microphone wire right at the connector head making it impossible to solder back together and I somehow managed to totally unseat on of the shoulder button microswitches from the PCB.  so I'd advise anyone taking their DS apart to be especially careful of those two points.  Especially the should button microswitches.  The mic wire was pretty much my fault, but I really have no idea how the shoulder button became separated and from looking at it now, it seems like it was already a weak point in the PCB design.

This was doubly disappointing to me since the clear case that I was installing ended up having a wobbly hinge once it was all together and, honestly, not looking all that hot anyway.  In fact, after about 10 minutes, I decided it wasn't worth it and decided to switch back to my original white case, which was actually when I made the two mistakes described above.

For the most part, the disassembly wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, but I can only recommend being very careful, especially around the shoulder buttons.  And if you're doing this in order to install a replacement case, maybe think again.


...word is bondage...


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## Splych (Aug 1, 2008)

awesome guide thieves ^^ 
much more detailed that those ones you find on the internet  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




and where do you think i can get the supplies in Canada ? 
i'm just gonna order the triwing and phillips at DX but the other supplies ? 


do you know any reputable places to buy these stuff ?

#00 phillips (+) screwdriver
x-acto type hobby knife
small (jeweler’s sized) pair of needle-nose pliers
1/16th in regular (-) screwdriver (optional)

those stuff are all that i'm need of . might the hobby knife at a local arts n' craft store ( Michael's ) and then then the the other stuff are a problem . where do you think i can get those stuff . ?


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## thieves like us (Aug 1, 2008)

you should be able to find the screwdrivers, hobby knife and pliers at any reputable hardware store. just let them know exactly what you're looking for.

hobby stores should carry the items as well since the sizes are small for things like modeling and/or radio controlled devices.


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## Splych (Aug 1, 2008)

oh alright . so far my  best at finding these things are at Michael's ( well just for the hobby knife ) and Canadian Tire then =) but it's gonna be tough searching for those ..

and at DX , if i bought the Tri-Wing and Phillips screwdrives what size would the phillips be ? all i want to know is that the Phillips screw driver will fit and be used on the screws ! so yea is it a #00 one ? or another one ?


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## Twiffles (Aug 1, 2008)

Now I can slowly replace my DSL with a broken hinge, good job!


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## fryfrog (Aug 1, 2008)

I literally just finished doing my own swap a few days ago.  Your guide is excellent and even touches on the problem I had.  I managed to break the little nub off the power switch w/o even feeling or noticing it.  That little nub is *TINY*.  I got a replacement switch online for $10 and de-soldered the bad one, soldered on the new one.

After getting it back together, it isn't quite right yet.  I need to tighten the hinge anchor more (I swear it is as tight as the screws will go) and I believe I routed the mic wire wrong so it is keeping the case a little separated.  The translucent black case I got (from dealextreme) is pretty good, but I think the power switch is not quite perfect (it doesn't slide easily, so it gets stuck going on/off).  I'll probably file / razor it a little when I re-fit the bottom half.

So... take it very slow, don't push things together that don't want to.  The DS Lite is small and everything is crammed in there good.  I like the way my new translucent black (gray?) case looks and I *almost* wish I'd gotten the crystal clear one instead.


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## MrBeer069 (Aug 1, 2008)

Superb guide theives.

I will be getting an NDS this month and I really fancy making it look different to everyone elses. Living in the UK does anyone know of a website to get replacement cases? I love the black mario one in the links in the guide.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14164

My theory is to get a black NDS and then I only have to replace the top half of the case.

Thanks again for the guide.


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## Toni Plutonij (Aug 1, 2008)

Hey thieves, awesome work..I've swapped my case some time ago, and I used few guides, because there was no complete guide, that was so detailed about changing case..
I wish I had something like this by my side then..
But lucky, I had no problems that ruined my NDS!!

Be sure to upload all the pictures, it will make this guide the best out there (it already is the best, most detailed one),,


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## Searinox (Aug 1, 2008)

Please include information about handling the TOUCHSCREEN ribbon cable with pics aswell. I broke mine. Also its clip opens the OTHER way around as opposite to the other ribbon clips, and I almost broke the clip off the board trying to figure out why it wasn't unclasping. Ironically enough the opening direction is mentioned in troubleshooting, aka AFTER you've done the damage, not during disassembly. There are currently barely any guides out there that document the touchscreen cable in a disassembly process, though they all talk about the LCD ribbons so I don't see much anything new in this one.


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## Chanser (Aug 1, 2008)

This should be handy sorting out my non-responsive D-Pad diagonals.


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## raypou (Aug 1, 2008)

Just bought a broken-hinge DSL off ebay, and got a new case from DX.  I'll be using this guide when everything comes in 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




Already did my Wii with a nice black case, it looks sexy


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## arctic_flame (Aug 1, 2008)

D'oh, You're a week too late 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Did my friends DSL without a guide and it was fine.


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## thieves like us (Aug 1, 2008)

Searinox said:
			
		

> Please include information about handling the TOUCHSCREEN ribbon cable with pics aswell.  Ironically enough the opening direction is mentioned in troubleshooting, aka AFTER you've done the damage, not during disassembly.


the reason that I didn't mention it is that there is no valid reason to disassemble the lower lcd panel from the pc board (and doing so doesn't save you anything). 

as long as you remove the whole assembly as a single unit (which *is* pointed out in the guide 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




), there shouldn't be any issues.

don't worry, I'm taking everyone's comments into consideration and will probably add notes here and there to the guide once I finish taking the images this weekend. keep them coming.


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## rifflesby (Aug 1, 2008)

thieves like us said:
			
		

> the reason that I didn't mention it is that there is no valid reason to disassemble the lower lcd panel from the pc board (and doing so doesn't save you anything).


Sure there is: replacing the touchscreen. This guide is generally much nicer than the one I had when I tried to do that on my old DS, you might as well go for 100% completion.


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## Splych (Aug 2, 2008)

Holt said:
			
		

> oh alright . so far my  best at finding these things are at Michael's ( well just for the hobby knife ) and Canadian Tire then =) but it's gonna be tough searching for those ..
> 
> and at DX , if i bought the Tri-Wing and Phillips screwdrives what size would the phillips be ? all i want to know is that the Phillips screw driver will fit and be used on the screws ! so yea is it a #00 one ? or another one ?



BLEH ! =( Thieves never replied ...

i'll just wait then ...


- Holt


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## JPH (Aug 2, 2008)

great job once again thieves


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## thieves like us (Aug 2, 2008)

Holt said:
			
		

> and at DX , if i bought the Tri-Wing and Phillips screwdrives what size would the phillips be ? all i want to know is that the Phillips screw driver will fit and be used on the screws ! so yea is it a #00 one ? or another one ?


I never replied because those parts are actually linked in the guide at the bottom all ready. why would I link to items in my own guide that didn't work? think about it.


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## Splych (Aug 2, 2008)

oh xD you shoulda told me that ! but still now i have more curiosity if i should replace my DS case , sell it here then buy a new one or get it fixed by someone .

Which one of those 2 would you recomend to be better ? Can't choose . And since either would be great i won't be complaining ^^ With thieves review they are both awesome cases ! But which one would be more delicate ? The Clear Cased one or the Dragon one ? Would go with the better quality one( even though it will be in a case ! ) So yea which one is more recomended ? 

IQue: Chinese Dragon Edition   $18.96   
Crystal Clear ( Crystal Clear )   $18.73



====================


and then the hobby knifes ...

Art Knife with Spare Blades ( 7 Pieces ) $3.07

or

Complete Art-work Knifes with Carrying Case (13-Piece Set)  $4.99

would one of those be okay ? or is it better to get a branded one ? 


====================

so yea sorry for all the questions . but i have to ask them for clarification !

- Holt


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## Clau46 (Aug 3, 2008)

Nice guide. I just got a new Nintendo DS because my old one had the L/R buttons not working correctly any more now can i try to repair it. 

Thnx


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## jabjab (Aug 3, 2008)

quickly flicked through...

step 12: remove 2 philips screws (circled in magenta) 

no magenta circles and only 2 visible screws - either remove the highlighting reference or highlight em 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




looks good but still too hard for me id imagine


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## science (Aug 3, 2008)

Hey thieves, is that my DS?


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## thieves like us (Aug 3, 2008)

science said:
			
		

> Hey thieves, is that my DS?


the one picture of the white ds lite with the slotted collar is. when I swapped cases for you, I took pictures which I used to write the guide. I then went back and re-took all of the pictures again to get "exactly" what I wanted to show in the guide.


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## Satangel (Aug 3, 2008)

Great tutorial, really handy!


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## thieves like us (Aug 3, 2008)

I think I've got it just about complete with all of the images that I'm going to add. if anything still shows up as a missing image in the browser, please let me know and I'll remove the empty image tags.


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## FlatFrogger (Aug 4, 2008)

Awesome guide, I've been considering replacing my ds lite casing. I was also considering replacing my touch screen too.


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## voRia (Aug 4, 2008)

I want to thank you 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



This guide is simply perfect.

Oh, I noticed a broken link to 'c_51.jpg' photo. It exists on server, it's just a broken link.


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## xzxero (Aug 6, 2008)

damn.
where can you get a replacement ribbon cable for the top screen?


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## thieves like us (Aug 6, 2008)

to the best of my knowledge, you can't just purchase a replacement cable (it's hard wired to the display), however you can find replacement displays pretty cheap from DX or ebay.


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## Prime (Aug 6, 2008)

Great guide, I've been meaning to replace my NDS case for a while (hinge problems) and i was hoping to find a guide.


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## thieves like us (Aug 6, 2008)

just an fyi:
all of the images are now in place but I will probably be going back this weekend and modifying the guide at least once more to arrange the images a bit better with the [alt] text located underneath them. I'm also toying with the idea of increasing the size of the thumbnails from 135px to 200px wide (making it a bit easier to see what is being discussed without having to open up [all of] the full sized images.

I will also be adding a step showing how to correctly disassemble the lower lcd panel from the pc board with a diagram on how the smaller, touchscreen flexible cable connection works.

I encourage anyone using this document to submit their comments and suggestions so that I can continue to improve the guide.


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## xzxero (Aug 6, 2008)

coll.
for sure
thieves.
your work in progress is revolutionary.
im havin mad problems tho.
if its not one thing its the other
so suggestions you say?
detail the troubleshooting


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## junfeng85 (Aug 7, 2008)

I replaced my shell but the black color hinge is still spoiled. Any idea where I can get 1? most replacement shell have everything except that hinge =(


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## thieves like us (Aug 7, 2008)

junfeng85:
a number of ebay sellers offer replacement axel hinges
http://search.ebay.com/ds-lite-axle-hinge_...Q20axelQ20hinge


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## junfeng85 (Aug 7, 2008)

Thanks alot!! =)


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## xzxero (Aug 7, 2008)

off topic?
my suggestion was that you should detail the troubleshooting
as in the if the touch screen isnt working *what* flexible cable should i be looking at.
i just want to get thru this without any grief


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## thieves like us (Aug 7, 2008)

xzxero:
should should have made your original post clear to understand. as it was entered, I wasn't sure if you were attempting to try and be "funny" or what you were attempting to communicate (I don't speak [yoda]).

I may consider going into further detail regarding the touch screen in a future update, however since I didn't advocate removing it, there was really no reason to include anything on it in the intial release of the guide.


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## Searinox (Aug 11, 2008)

I've got one question that really bothers me.







See those four pins? I've bent one out of shape, then bent it back, could that have any adverse effect? As far as I checked those pins aren't conencting to anything, they are only 'claws' holding the cable since its connectors are actually on the lower side, not upper side where those things are gripping. Can I get confirmation that connection-wise they are unimportant and that bending one wouldn't cause the touchscreen not to respond?


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## thieves like us (Aug 11, 2008)

I've still got a system lying in pcs. at home that I'll take a look at after I get out of work today.

to the best of my knowledge, you are correct that they sort of function as a [claw] keeping the smaller flexible cable in place, however I can't be sure that's their only function until I get home and can have a closer look and possibly check some things with a multi-meter.


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## Searinox (Aug 11, 2008)

Please do so, I would be very grateful. My DS is broken and I have replacements under way. My memory is what frustrates me, because I am not sure wether after I reassembled it the touchscreen worked for a few seconds and then stopped working. If it did I would expect a little more than TS damage, maybe somethng shorted out because of my bend? In any case I ordered a 2nd touchscreen to make sure, and I'd be devastated to find it doesn't work because the clip is damaged. If it is I'd suspect either the pin bending or the fact that the cable came out forcefully under the screen's weight...


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## thieves like us (Aug 11, 2008)

although the connector is reasonably small, once it's in the locked position, it would take quite a good deal of force to pull the screen free (trust me, I messed one up before and know this via 1st hand experience).


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## Searinox (Aug 12, 2008)

It WAS locked into position when it came out. Could that damage the connectors? The clip seems to be working perfectly now but the touchscreen is not.


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## thieves like us (Aug 12, 2008)

ah... you didn't mention that before.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




my guess is that you accidentally ruined the connectors under the lock (which is what I did when it happened to me as well). if you have a magnifying lense and an hobby knife and an extremely steady hand, you might be able to identify and re-align a shifted connecting pin (which is subsequently not making contact with the touch screen's ribbon cable).

if that's not the case, then your best best is to win an auction on ebay for a broken ds lite (broken as in the screens or hinge but not the power switch, because you're going to need the PCB from the broken system to swap with yours). a replacement touch screen from DX won't correct this problem, because the problem lies in the connection to the PCB under the lock.


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## Searinox (Aug 12, 2008)

The pins underneath look healthy, it's the claws on top, ONE of them WAS damaged but I straightened it back. Could you give me a picture of what the inside pins look like with the clip open? I looked at them and they all look healthy but just to make sure, I need a referrence pic.


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## thieves like us (Aug 12, 2008)

yes, I can *try* and take a picture and post it late tonight. the problem being that even a $1500 SLR is only as good as its lense and since I haven't bothered to go out and purchase a nice macro zoom lense, I'm restricted to how close I get get (and still remain in focus). (I think it may be time to just pick up a $250 digital camera with 12x optical for this stuff).

hopefully, I can get good enough light source and picture for you.


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## thieves like us (Aug 13, 2008)

ok, here are your images:


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## Searinox (Aug 13, 2008)

Thank you very much. Ya know they look about right. Mine look that way. Does the cable go in all the way to the other side? To those 4 metal strips that run over the cable have a role in connection? I mean the connectors are on the bottom side... it's the 'kennels' underneath, the faintly-visible golden ones down from where the clip ends that ensure data transfer right?


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## thieves like us (Aug 13, 2008)

here are two more pictures with the ribbon cable removed so that you can see (as best as my camera will allow), what the connector by itself, looks like:


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## Satangel (Aug 16, 2008)

I have a White DS Lite where the R button doesn't work properly anymore.
I've found that it's probably caused by dust in the spring that is inside the R button.
On which pic can I see where that spring is?


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## thieves like us (Aug 17, 2008)

"dust" in the spring would not cause the shoulder button to not operate properly. the springs merely provide tension so that the default position of the shoulder buttons is such that they are not pressing onto the micro switch.

it's probably either one of two things:
1) the post on the shoulder button is not making contact with the micro switch on the pc board correctly
2) the micro switch is going / has gone bad


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## Satangel (Aug 17, 2008)

I which picture can I see that spring, micro switch and PC clearly?
I'm a total noob in such things, sorry for that


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## thieves like us (Aug 17, 2008)

here's the picture of the shoulder button assembly (from the disassembly portion of the guide)
http://thieves.gbatemp.net/images/ndsl%20guide/b_09.jpg

and here's a pretty good picture of the whole thing with the micro switch (the switch is labeled as SW10 on the pc board)
http://thieves.gbatemp.net/images/ndsl%20guide/c_49.jpg


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## Giangsta (Sep 1, 2008)

really cool guide, im gonna be making some changes to my ds soon...

Does anyone know of a guide to installing a new touch screen to the DS lite?


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## thieves like us (Sep 2, 2008)

I have to do just that for both searinox and JPH (that is, when the touch screens arrive). I'll probably add that to the guide once I've gone through it myself.


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## voRia (Sep 2, 2008)

I've finally used your guide to change case on my ds, i've had no problems at all. Thanks. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Just one note.
My replacement shell has come with replacement sticker and borders for both screens. Your guide does not explain how to change them. I've tried to remove the one on upper screen, but, because I was not sure about what I was doing and feared to break something, I've left the original ones at last. It would be nice to have these istructions too.

Apart of this, all the rest is simply perfect.
Thank you again.


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## Monster On Strin (Sep 2, 2008)

My ds is now smalt, its actually enamel navy, thanks to your guide. This is the second time my ds has been casemodded due to my first crappy, shock shell


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## thieves like us (Sep 3, 2008)

voRia:
noted

to do list:
- disassembly and installation of touchscreen   (requested by: Giangsta)
- removal of upper lcd panel, adhesive frame  (requested by: voRia)
- removal of lower lcd panel coloured frame    (requested by: voRia)


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## science (Sep 4, 2008)

Is this the same Pikachu one you used for your review? Is this one better? I think its different, but I want your opinion

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13868


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## thieves like us (Sep 5, 2008)

it's hard to say from the images on DX's site. it looks very similar to the one that I reviewed, but I noticed the following:
- the pikachu silhouette is different (white vs. a lighter yellow)
- there isn't an image of the full underside, making it hard to determine if only the top shell half is glossy (and the bottom suffers from the same issue that the battery cover isn't molded from the same die lot as the lower shell half
- they're including instructions now?!


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## Giangsta (Sep 5, 2008)

any chance of a rough draft of the guide by next week? im expecting my stuff from deal extreme to come in.

Cheers man, ur a legend


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## thieves like us (Sep 5, 2008)

I'm still waiting on my replacements and until I receive them and know exactly what's supplied with them, it would be hard for me to provide anything any earlier.


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## ChillyPepper (Oct 4, 2008)

My touch screen is insensitive. Should I replace the entire touch screen module or is it because of bad connections?


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## thieves like us (Oct 7, 2008)

the problem that I've found with all of the replacement touch screens is that they are made of glass and are a lot less responsive than the oem version. there is one seller on ebay now selling them for about 16.00usd ea, and claiming that they are oem, but I've not purchased any of them to verify this claim.


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## Shugo Takahashi (Oct 9, 2008)

-snip-


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## Diablo1123 (Oct 30, 2008)

Are you sure the phillips screwdriver in the deal extreme 2 pack is the right size? Because I ahve it and it doesn't fit


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## thieves like us (Nov 9, 2008)

Diablo1123 said:
			
		

> Are you sure the phillips screwdriver in the deal extreme 2 pack is the right size? Because I have it and it doesn't fit


I wouldn't recommend them based on quality, but for the price they do the job just fine. I didn't have any issues with the philips not working that I received from them.


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## Diablo1123 (Nov 11, 2008)

Okay, now I have a really screwed up NDSL,

I broke the dark brown locking thing on the strip to the top screen, any suggestions?


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## thieves like us (Nov 12, 2008)

Diablo1123 said:
			
		

> Okay, now I have a really screwed up NDSL,
> 
> I broke the dark brown locking thing on the strip to the top screen, any suggestions?


my only suggestion would be to try and purchase a [broken] ds lite off of ebay that has a broken top display. that should ensure that you receive something that has a good pc board that you can use from it.  trying to remove and subsequently replace the connector for a display is extremely difficult, even if you have the proper hardware (soldering station with a hot air tool) to do it.


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## Santee (Nov 14, 2008)

Cool guide anyway do you know any sites that repair your ds cause i need a new top screen and a new shell and i cant do it myslef


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## Marios_shadow (Dec 3, 2008)

Hey, great guide, this really helped me out the first time I put my DS back together after a repair job. =P

However, I've now gotten two yellow Pikachu shells with broken hinges... I think it's because of the "LED Diffuser", when put together I noticed the the plastic between it and the R trigger is bent out... I tried sanding it down the second time, but it eventually cracked that bit of plastic as well as the hinge on that side.

Any ideas?


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## phatdade69 (Dec 7, 2008)

thieves like us said:
			
		

> Sc4rFac3d said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




This guy never really got his answer, and I have the same question. Anyone know of a PLACE or LINK where we can find this kind of handy dandy guide?

I'll continue to look and reply if I find, but I thought I'd drop a line in the GBA community to see what is known amongst the brethren.

PD69


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## phatdade69 (Dec 7, 2008)

Typing the phrase:

"DS Phat Shell Replacement Guide"

into google showed me somewhere to go with pics. 

"Answering my own damned questions since 1981" - PD69


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## bew1977 (Dec 27, 2008)

Awesome Guide, helped me a lot with my TWEWY case....

Only problem I have run into is my top screen is now a bit darker and has light flickering....  Probably a problem with with my ribbon cable.  (Gonna try reseating it once more and just finish putting it together.


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## Loop (Jan 5, 2009)

After putting it off for the longest time... I finally bit the bullet cos both of the hinges on my DS lite broke!
Great guide, easy to follow.... couldn't have done it without you!

One thing I will mention is that a few of the images in the guide are now missing...
one which made me panic was the one in the troubleshooting section - if the touch screen doesn't work
could do with a pic of the tiny flexible cable connector - I nearly broke it trying to figure out which way to open it!!

Other than that... you couldn't ask for a better guide!


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## sland (Jan 8, 2009)

Nice guide! This will help me when I switch my broken DS into it's new pikachu case!


EDIT: Also, how do you replace the top and bottom frames for the screens? The bottom screen looks easy, but I don't get how for the top screen.


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## thieves like us (Jan 9, 2009)

sland said:
			
		

> Nice guide! This will help me when I switch my broken DS into it's new pikachu case!
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also, how do you replace the top and bottom frames for the screens? The bottom screen looks easy, but I don't get how for the top screen.


the top screen protector (clear plastic frame covering the entire display) is actually the easier of the two to swap out.

*top screen protector/frame*
when you disassemble the top half of the shell, (step xx), you notice that the adhesive frame that holds the lcd display to the front (inside) of the shell is also what holds the plastic frame in place. simply (and carefully) pull the frame away from the display. when re-assembling, I've found it easiest to place the double-sided adhesive frame on the inside of the top shell into position and then drop the lcd display in place (pressing it down firmly).

afterwards, flip the inner shell half over and apply the replacement frame (protective shield)

ps
you may want to make sure that you use some window cleaner and a soft, lint free cloth on the lcd display prior to reassembly so that no dust and/or fingerprints are present prior to applying the top frame. you want to do this prior to dropping it back in place, because a portion of the double-sided adhesive frame is still exposed from the front side (which is what the top frame sticks to when it is pressed into position).


*lower frame*
*warning:*
improper removal can damage your touch screen, rendering it unusable. I take no responsibility to any damage that you cause trying to follow the steps listed below.

swapping out the lower frame sucks due to the strength of the glue on double-sided adhesive panel which bonds the lower frame to the touch screen layer. for all of the frames that I've performed swap outs on, I've slowly and carefully used my thumbnail to separate the lower frame (and it's adhesive backside) from the touch screen panel.

be careful not forcibly lift the lower frame, otherwise you may inadvertantly separate the two halves of the touch screen panel (which are held together by a small amount of a rubber cement type adhesive).

after completely removing the lower frame, I usually use a soft cloth dampened with glass cleaner and vigerously clean the exposed surface of the touch screen to eliminate any residual adhesive from the old frame.

the replacement frame is applied after the system is completely re-assembled so that you can use the interior of the shell to correctly position it.


I'll try and add these steps to the guide when time permits.


----------



## sland (Jan 11, 2009)

Did you know that removing the wi-fi package isn't necessary? I changed shells without having to remove it.


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## thieves like us (Jan 11, 2009)

sland said:
			
		

> Did you know that removing the wi-fi package isn't necessary? I changed shells without having to remove it.


yes, I know that. however, it is a lot easier to thread the wire under the slot-one package with it removed as well as re-assemble the R trigger button.


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## TheRedGingerBaro (Jan 17, 2009)

Do you think you could provide a guide that details how to remove the mobo without removing the wifi chip? :/

I'm a bit scared I might snap the chip as it seems to require force on my DS.

If not I understand :]

Fantastic guide by the way, way better than the shock provided one and the one on youtube with the man who sounds like a Chringrish soccer announcer


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## sland (Jan 17, 2009)

You don't need to remove it. Just take out the black wire and proceed as usual with the chip still in.


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## sland (Jan 18, 2009)

I need help. When I replaced it, only one speaker was working. The wires didn't look broken. Help!


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## thieves like us (Jan 18, 2009)

sland said:
			
		

> I need help. When I replaced it, only one speaker was working. The wires didn't look broken. Help!


did you check to ensure that when you soldered the wires to the replacement display, that you did so correctly? this image below shows the proper connections (one speaker's wires are reversed compared to the other set). if this isn't the issue, then you may want to re-flow the solder to ensure that you have a good connection and no "cold solder" joints.






left speaker (red wire - top / black wire - bottom)
right speaker ( black wire - top / red wire - bottom)


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## gtakid (Feb 8, 2009)

Hi, I broke the ribbon cable that is attach to the top LCD screen. I reassemble my DS and when I turn on the power, the bottom screen flashes on for a sec and it turns off. 
Is that suppose to happen without the top screen or is my DS completely ruin?

TIA


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## thieves like us (Feb 8, 2009)

gtakid said:
			
		

> Hi, I broke the ribbon cable that is attach to the top LCD screen. I reassemble my DS and when I turn on the power, the bottom screen flashes on for a sec and it turns off.
> Is that suppose to happen without the top screen or is my DS completely ruin?
> 
> TIA


yes, you will need to replace the top screen. depending on which traces still function (or if the display itself becomes damaged), the ds will still function without the upper screen. however, if you damage any of the [key] traces, you will need to replace it in order to make the ds / ds lite functional again.


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## tmujir955 (Feb 22, 2009)

AHH! I tore the golden ribbon inside the hinge in two! What do I do!?

EDIT: Sorry for posting the same issue again; didnt realize someone else had this issue.


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## Hakoda (Feb 22, 2009)

WAIT, I need to solder to successfully replace a DS Lite Casing?? The GBATemp.net Guide doesn't say anything about soldering!!?!?


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## thieves like us (Feb 22, 2009)

jonjon95 said:
			
		

> WAIT, I need to solder to successfully replace a DS Lite Casing?? The GBATemp.net Guide doesn't say anything about soldering!!?!?


no. no soldering is required to replace a case housing.

the people in the 2 instances above ruined their upper displays. the replacement upper display does not come with the speakers connected, so you need to de-solder and remove the speakers from the original display and transfer them to the new display (by soldering) prior to re-assembling everything.


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## pajamaboy (Feb 26, 2009)

thank you so much thieves!!!  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




the tip at the beginning of the reassembly was especially helpful, threading the screws was pretty important...I almost messed it up by stripping some screws.


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## thejanitor (Mar 14, 2009)

I followed the tutorial and ran into a few bumps in the road. Pretty much all of them were my fault including the one I would like to see adjusted. I think it would be a lot helpful to move the pictures and the warning about using needle nose pliers vs. the serrated pliers into one of the disclaimer sections before opening the DS. I used the serrated pliers to pull the ribbon back through the top part of the hinge. It wasn't until after I got to the "reseating" the ribbon to the connector part that I saw those pics and knew I was doomed. 

It was mentioned what type of pliers were needed in the beginning, but I think the pictures and the "here's why" would be more important towards the beginning for dunces like myself. Luckily, Deal extreme is cheap!   
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




*Posts merged*

I followed the tutorial and I ran into a few bumps in the road. Pretty much all of them were my fault including the one I would like to see adjusted. I think it would be a lot helpful to move the pictures and the warning about using needle nose pliers vs. the serrated pliers into one of the disclaimer sections before opening the DS. I used the serrated pliers to pull the ribbon back through the top part of the hinge. It wasn't until after I got to the "reseating" the ribbon to the connector part that I saw those pics and knew I was doomed. 

It was mentioned what type of pliers were needed in the beginning, but I think the pictures and the "here's why" would be more important towards the beginning f


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## StupidMario (Apr 12, 2009)

excellent guide thieves- i was dreading doing this case swap but i took my time today and followed your most excellent guide and now im the proud owner of a B-E-A-UTIFUL brand new looking shiny black DS LITE 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




I wont say everything went smooooth like and i did have a few hairy moments but all in all i found your guide straightforward and easy to follow so thanks buddy


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## Nitto (Apr 23, 2009)

Thieves; Nice guide, love it and I changed my phat =)

Open:




Top:




Bottom:





Note: It looks like a red piece of shit (That is just the flash)


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## mayhem366 (May 6, 2009)

I have encountered a  missing part of this tutorial, with the DealExtreme replacement case it comes shipped with a replacement coloured band for both screens. This tutorial does not cover the installation of these, any ideas?


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## thieves like us (May 11, 2009)

mayhem366 said:
			
		

> I have encountered a  missing part of this tutorial, with the DealExtreme replacement case it comes shipped with a replacement coloured band for both screens. This tutorial does not cover the installation of these, any ideas?


step 21 shows how to remove the top display from the frame. the top display shield is held in place by a black double-sided sticky frame that can be easily removed (with care). simply split the display shield away from double-sided sticky frame making sure not tear it.

during re-assembly you will need to make sure that you are working in a dust-free environment prior to applying the new screen shield (otherwise you'll end up with particles trapped between the display and the shield). I tend to apply the double-sided frame to the back side of the inner top frame and then apply the display to the frame to ensure that everything is properly in place. however, this leaves the display's surface exposed, so you need to take care and not touch it, otherwise you'll end up with fingerprints.

the lower display frame is sticky backed, which is how it is affixed to the touch screen. you will need to *carefully* separate the frame from the touch screen *without* separating (and thereby damaging) the 2 layers of the touch screen. affixing the replacement lower frame is pretty straightforward once the system has been re-assembled.


the reason why I didn't include swapping either the [upper] shield and the [lower] frame is the number of things that can go wrong if you don't take your time. I've actually destroyed 2 touch screens due to the strength of the glue used to hold the frame in place.


----------



## mayhem366 (May 11, 2009)

I have gone without this step at the moment and left my green frame on it. I have a problem now though, i think i have busted my wifi. Local play still works but i cannot connect to my access point.
During disassembly i managed to pull the metal clip off of the top of the wifi wire but managed to push it back on again a little. Should i take it out and try and resolder it?

Also i broke my microphone


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## thieves like us (May 12, 2009)

if you've busted the ends off of both wires, your best bet is to purchase a dead (but intact) system and vulture it for the parts that you need. I'm not quite if its just a single lead or if either of them also have a ground running inside the insulation.

and unfortunately, my bag of spare parts only has one wi-fi antenna in it and no microphone leads, otherwise I'd offer you the pair for a few dollars.


----------



## mayhem366 (May 12, 2009)

I'm not that worried about the microphone, i think i know why that is bust. 
Couldn't get the rubber bit in (tried for about an hour) so i thought that if i trimmed it then it would go in easier, ended up trimming a hole in it so it was no longer a cylinder shape :S
Had to glue it in. Whoops.

Does local play and wifi use the same thing? The wifi antennae?


----------



## thieves like us (May 12, 2009)

mayhem366 said:
			
		

> Do local play and wifi use the same thing? The wifi antennae?


yes. since there are no wires connecting the systems, the wi-fi antenna is used for both internet and local play multi-player gaming.


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## DSFan08 (May 15, 2009)

You know what would really make this guide even better? A VIDEO TUTORIAL VERSION!! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







And approximately how long did it take you (the make of the guide) to dissemble and then reassemble the entire thing? 2 hours? 4 hours? 6?

Also, is there such a thing as a #00 Philips (+) Screwdriver?


----------



## RrAaCcOoOoNn (May 17, 2009)

I used this guide to help me replace my DS game slot-1
i got it all together and what-not but my touchscreen wasn't working, then now it doesn't even stay on. When i turn it on it has the green light for about 5-10 secs and then shuts down. So im stuck with a "non-responsive" touchscreen and it wont stay on.


Is there anyway to fix those problems?

P.S. GREAT GUIDE!


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## Magnifico (May 17, 2009)

Thanks for the guide. 

What a learning experience my first time has been... trying to fix a broken hinge (which I did), and now upon reassembly I have ended up with a stripped screw in the PCB, an upper screen that isn't working, and a touch screen that isn't working =(. The stripped screw makes it very hard (nigh impossible) to troubleshoot.

Guess I may just have to get that DSi... I'll miss my GBA games =(


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## thieves like us (May 18, 2009)

DSFan08 said:
			
		

> You know what would really make this guide even better? A VIDEO TUTORIAL VERSION!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


see my response for RrAaCcOoOoNn since it appears that he had similar issues.


----------



## NightKry (Jul 10, 2009)

Well, I tried swapping cases, and all went well except my DS flashes onces and then shuts off instantly (like mentioned in troubleshooting). I've checked the cables, and they all appear to be attached properly.

What should I do? Buy a new top screen LCD and repair it? Why would it be broken (it doesn't have any creases or anything...)?

Thanks
=(


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## thieves like us (Jul 17, 2009)

NightKry said:
			
		

> Well, I tried swapping cases, and all went well except my DS flashes onces and then shuts off instantly (like mentioned in troubleshooting). I've checked the cables, and they all appear to be attached properly.


fixed via our pm conversation. now for you to try and remedy your other issues based on my last response.


*summer offer:*
now, until the end of august, I will be willing to perform case mods for the low, low economic stimulus price of just 2usd!!

you supply the ds lite (100% working or in the worse case scenario, with a broken hinge), replacement case, return shipping costs and an additional 2usd and I will case mod your ds lite and ship it back to you (turn around time is usually overnight).


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## Zane (Aug 1, 2009)

Cheers! Just swapped cases on my broken hinge DS, using your guide. Everything works like it should, other then the facct that the inner working isn't fitting in the new shell 100% but it's to be expected.

My problems lies in that now when i play my sound is low as hell, as if the speakers where flipped facing the wrong way or something, but i'm not sure i wanna disassemble the whole DS again just to check. Could it be that the Case itself makes the sound really low? 

It was a pain the in the but to screw together again and might go insane if i actually have to open the whole crap up again.


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## thieves like us (Aug 12, 2009)

zane:
can you provide a photo of your ds lite opened?  I can easily assess if you've inserted the speakers backwards. additionally, when you state that it doesn't fit together correctly, are you talking about the top or bottom sections?


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## zee1 (Aug 13, 2009)

i wish i read this even earlier..
unfortunately i was guided by some one else and all messed up.
i will try this soon...
Regroupement credits


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## luke_c (Aug 28, 2009)

Just put on my Mettalic Blue and black case using this guide, great stuff.


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## shakirmoledina (Oct 1, 2009)

is this as difficult as people say it is ie.) be careful or else your ds is dead?


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## DsHacker14 (Oct 25, 2009)

is there one for dsi yet? my hinge is getting looser and looser..


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## thieves like us (Nov 4, 2009)

I wasn't planning on providing a guide for the DSi. given the number of issues that people have had with the DS lite, providing one for the DSi is just asking for trouble due to the increased number of components, smaller size of some of the connectors and puzzle-like assembly process.

I recently disassembled the lower half of a DSi to replace a scratched touch screen, and it took me about an hour to disassemble it (although, I admit that I was probably being over protective and in no hurry)

there are a few good video links on youtube and one site (I can't remember the link) had a step-by-step tear down, so that should be enough for now. maybe when more aftermarket shells are produced, I'll reconsider.


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## Hyro-Sama (Dec 26, 2009)

Should I attempt replacing the shell my myself?

I don't want to destroy my DS Lite

I need to know how difficult this is before I attempt it?

Also is there somewhere that someone can replace the shell for me or I can buy the Clear Black and Clear White DS Lite already made?


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## Hyro-Sama (Dec 26, 2009)

science said:
			
		

> Hey thieves, is that my DS?



How can he have you DS if you live in Canada?

Sorry about the Double post


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## Deleted_171835 (Dec 26, 2009)

salamai said:
			
		

> science said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Obvious sarcasm was obvious.


----------



## densonj (Mar 7, 2010)

My son broke the right hinge pretty badly recently on his DS Lite. When he showed it to me I could see the ribbon cable and was concerned that the thing would be ruined. After all, these little machines aren't cheap! The lid was wiggling a lot and I could see the ribbon cable being pulled and twisted. So I started Googling and came up with the link to this tutorial on shell replacements. I located a transparent blue Ghost Shell and purchased it (about a week ago). It came in today. We did the change this evening. It took me 3 1/2 hours to complete. I had to trim some "flare" in several places, but the repair came out beautiful in the end and the machine is working perfectly. I am very happy because I don't have to worry about the display cable being trashed. My son is very happy to have a nicely working hinge again and he loves the transparent blue color. I don't normally spend any time on the "gaming sites", but I was so pleased with your guide that I wanted to thank you for providing it. It is very well written and easy to follow. The photo illustrations were a huge help. Thank you!


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## KirovAir (Mar 18, 2010)

Thanks alot thieves!

I've used this guide a few times, and now I can finally live without it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Also, alot of my friends are using this guide (lot's of thanks from them), and I'm sure hundreds of other people use it too. (Without responding)


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## Devante (May 30, 2010)

Hey,

I just got the case here: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10826

Man this thing is perfect!
It comes with everything. Screws, metal hinge, little rubber stubs that cover the screws on the bottom, rubber "safety" bumpers on the top lip, umm... translucent pink screw covers for the 4 screws on the top lid, even frames for the top and bottoms screen matching the color of the shell pefectly.

Oh and a stylus to match!

So my question is, does anyone know of a guide that shows how to replace the frames of the screens?
I started trying to peel them away but wanted to get some input before I mess anything up.


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## thieves like us (Jun 27, 2010)

thanks for the kind compliments. I may update the guide to explain the safest way for replacing the lcd shield (upper) and frame (lower) due to the number of recent requests


----------



## denieru7 (Jun 27, 2010)

Fixed my dead DSlite with this guide! Was going to buy a new one but decided to have a look inside - saved me $200  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 Thanks!


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## Arale (Dec 25, 2010)

So I'm having some problems with reassembling my ds,I think my on/off switch broke off,because I putted it back together,but couldn't turn it on and couldn't feel there was a switch.According to this link http://gbatemp.net/index.php?showtopic=105176 I need to buy a new on/off switch and solder it back on it.The soldering is gonna be a problem for me,because it means I need to get rid off the broken on/off switch first.It seems to get rid off the on/off switch I could use a desoldering braid,but I don't know how to use it,the same applies for the soldering iron.I don't know which one to get or what the requirements are,do I need an leadfree soldering wire?(I'm quite an newb at soldering)

optional part
Since I'm gonna be ending up soldering,along with my case there was also an led circuit board.So I wanna put it in the ds,but where and how am I gonna put it in then?

btw any tips for putting shell back together?Because I don't want to end up breaking the on/off switch again after the soldering is finished X_X(any video's of putting the led circuit board in ds and how to use soldering braid&soldering iron?)


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## SmokeFox (Dec 27, 2010)

My new crystal shell is arriving, but with this guide i am totally secure. Thanx Thieves.


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## Fire2box (Mar 20, 2011)

I just got a translucent blue DSL case from DX, it had pretty solid reviews. The problem I am having with it is getting the case's top screen to fit together properly even when it's just the two halves of the topscreen shell by itself.

1. It won't sit flush like the orginal case did ( makes me fear opening and closing it will wear out it's plastic hinge)

2. The screwholes won't align at all, no matter how hard I try to force it. 

With such high ratings on deal extreme I bought this case expecting it to fit the best without any real hassle. So, what do I do? 

(until then I got my DS phat but still DS Lite is night and day better then the phat. Also pokmeon white just came out.)


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## thieves like us (Mar 21, 2011)

can you provide any photos of what you're trying to describe?  it sounds like you may have not routed the internals (display, speaker wires, wifi and microphone wires) correctly and they are binding when you are attempting to slide the 2 halves of the upper shell together.


----------



## The Manipulator (Mar 30, 2011)

Thieves >>> Not sure wether this is the place to ask since I am a new member and still getting to know the forums - But since I'm here just thought I would ask...  I still own and use a DS Phat.  I like the feel of it and don't need the bells and whistles of the newer models (including the 3DS).  My only downside in using the phat (as I am sure it was with others that once used the Phat) - Is the brightness of the screen and having no control over it except to turn it off.  The one major improvement in the newer models IE: DS Lite.

My question is wether or not you know of a viable mod for the phat to rectify this?  Any help would be appreciated.

Many thanks in advance, and great guide!


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## thieves like us (Mar 30, 2011)

thanks 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



I'm not aware of any mods for the original "phat" ds that allows you . I believe that is in the the firmware of the DSlite and DSi's which allows you to choice the brightness level

I've got a phat model ds which was recently converted to be used as a direct capture system and I need to swap the case on it (it's pretty beat up). so, when I get a chance to do that, I'll check and see if the original uses the same type of wi-fi/firmware model that the dslite does (although, I can almost guarantee that it doesn't)


----------



## Fire2box (Mar 30, 2011)

thieves like us said:
			
		

> can you provide any photos of what you're trying to describe?  it sounds like you may have not routed the internals (display, speaker wires, wifi and microphone wires) correctly and they are binding when you are attempting to slide the 2 halves of the upper shell together.













It's the latch on the right in those photos. I've contacted DX about it and they are sending a new replacement free of charge. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	





Jeez is my computer room messy.


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## thieves like us (Mar 30, 2011)

ok. I've had one or two defective shell kits as well. one half of the shell has the "L" hooks and the other side doesn't so there's nothing for the halves to hook together and stay together, correct?

ps
your room doesn't look half as bad as mine is currently  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




edit:
I just finished modded another system last night (half transparent clear, the other half transparent blue). I'll post some photos tonight


----------



## thieves like us (Mar 31, 2011)

pics of my latest case mod, as promised


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## Fire2box (Mar 31, 2011)

The casing looks awesome. Sadly on the back of my top screen Nintendo/production line work's work in pen on it. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




But still the translucent blue casing will look good. Not that the crimson/black casing wasn't nice.


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## thieves like us (Mar 31, 2011)

unforunately for us case modders, many of the backs of the displays are marked with marker from a QC worker in the factory

you can try (very carefully) to use either some alcohol or goo-gone (a very, very small amount!!) on a cotton square or folded piece of paper towel to remove the marker. be very careful that you *don't* over saturate the cotton/paper towel too much. I actually ruined one upper display long ago when some alcohol wicked its way into the display through the flexible ribbon cable


----------



## Fire2box (Mar 31, 2011)

thieves like us said:
			
		

> unforunately for us case modders, many of the backs of the displays are marked with marker from a QC worker in the factory
> 
> you can try (very carefully) to use either some alcohol or goo-gone (a very, very small amount!!) on a cotton square or folded piece of paper towel to remove the marker. be very careful that you *don't* over saturate the cotton/paper towel too much. I actually ruined one upper display long ago when some alcohol wicked its way into the display through the flexible ribbon cable



I think I might have a better way around this issue. I am thinking of putting this behind the top screen and it would hopefully cover most or all of the writing.

(Warning My Little Pony image link.)

Rainbow Dash Papercraft. 

Now, it would just be a standard printing paper in high the highest quality I can get out of my printer. Would the DS Lite be able to fit back together it the thickness of standard printer/copy paper? I figure this would be a good way to show off my liking for Rainbow Dash/MLP:FiM


----------



## thieves like us (Mar 31, 2011)

you shouldn't have any issues with fitting a piece of paper inside. I wouldn't attempt to go with anything thicker than a normal sheet of paper since there's not too much extra room in there

you might even want to use a small amount of double-sided (poster) tape to affix the image to the back of the lcd display so that it doesn't slide around prior to putting the outer half of the shell back on


----------



## Fire2box (Mar 31, 2011)

I m just going to try it with clear matte scotchbrand tape. Also I printed this one out and it was too small, plus you could tell it's paper craft. I'll likely have to find another one.


----------



## The Manipulator (Apr 1, 2011)

thieves like us said:
			
		

> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ...



---
I did not think there was a mod as I've looked high and low.  Oh well...  Yes - DSLite is a different animal internally as far as how the screens work...

I am currently re-doing my phat with a custom case paint job.  Took the whole thing apart.  I am both electronically and technically aware, so it was only a short learning curve.  Still - Guides do make things a lot easier!

Maybe I'll try implementing a variable potentiometer for the brightness.  Finding the correct wiring for it ought to be fun, but I love experimenting!


----------



## thieves like us (May 7, 2011)

glad that it could help you and your nephew out


----------



## drew_ballz99 (May 21, 2011)

Hey Thieves....just want to say thanks in advance for the guide.  It's been working great for me so far.  I have ran into a problem with inserting the metal collar all the way into the upper case.  Is there a trick to this?


----------



## thieves like us (May 22, 2011)

the metal collar ins't supposed to fit [all] the way into upper half. it will stick out a bit to get captured inside of the "bump" where the charge and wi-fi indicators are however some after market kits may require a shorter width collar (and hopefully come packaged with it).


----------



## hoiboy909 (Jun 18, 2011)

There is a rip on my flat cable (due to my clumsiness)... and my DS is doign the flash thing. Are the two related?


----------



## thieves like us (Jun 18, 2011)

yes. if the flexible cable is torn or creased, you'll need to replace the upper display. you'll have to have some solder skills to remove the original speakers and transfer them over to the new display.  if you can't do this yourself, send me a pm and we can work something out if you want me to replace the display and finish your case swap.


----------



## loliD (Aug 12, 2011)

I'm looking at this guide before deciding whether it's worth it to break down my DS to clean it up a bit, but I can't quite tell the difference between the two photos in step 34.


----------



## DJ Hobo (Aug 12, 2011)

loliD said:
			
		

> I'm looking at this guide before deciding whether it's worth it to break down my DS to clean it up a bit, but I can't quite tell the difference between the two photos in step 34.


If you look really closely, you'll see that the photo on the left shows that the cable has not been fully inserted into the little connector slot. In the photo on the right, the cable is fully inserted, and it looks even. It's a little hard to tell, so you may need to zoom in. That's actually the step I had the most difficulty with when I was disassembling and reassembling my DS Lite.


----------



## thieves like us (Aug 12, 2011)

thanks DJ Hobo.

it was hard to try and get a clear photo showing just that. the problem that most people have when performing the reassembly is making sure that the flexible cables for both the upper and lower displays are *completely* inserted into the receiving sockets before closing the locks on them.

as DJ Hobo commented, if you look closely, you'll notice that the cable is inserted slightly skewed in image on the left.

you'll know that you didn't insert it correctly when you attempt to power up your system and all you get is a brief flash of the lower screen before the system shuts back down.


----------



## loliD (Aug 12, 2011)

Thanks for clearing that up guys.  I'm going to pick up a triwing tomorrow and do a bit of maintenance.

Update:  Popped open my DS today.  Just tested everything out and everything seems to be working.  Thanks for the guide.

Another Update:  Just noticed this while charging up the battery.  The LED light is slightly visible from a gap on the side, but I can't get it to fit more flush than it already is.  The metal collar is just barely visible on the left side too.  For all I know, it could have been like this before I took it apart.  Is it worth breaking down my DS to fix this?


----------



## Sc4rFac3d (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks for the guide, it's pretty great. But for the part where you can test the power of the DS lite? How do I switch the thing on? I can't find a switch or when I attach the lower part it's just loose and doesn't trigger anything

edit, nvm. It seems my power switch broke off.


----------



## thieves like us (Oct 1, 2011)

loliD said:
			
		

> Thanks for clearing that up guys.  I'm going to pick up a triwing tomorrow and do a bit of maintenance.
> 
> Update:  Popped open my DS today.  Just tested everything out and everything seems to be working.  Thanks for the guide.
> 
> ...


sorry to hear about that. that's why I stressed in the guide that you need to be really careful of the position of the physical switches for both the power and the volume control.

repair tip:
you don't need to de-solder *all* six of the solder points for the power switch. just the two (top and bottom). once you get those freed up, you can pop the metal shielding off and simply replace the inner working of the power switch, reassemble and then re-solder.


----------



## Sc4rFac3d (Oct 1, 2011)

thieves like us said:
			
		

> sorry to hear about that. that's why I stressed in the guide that you need to be really careful of the position of the physical switches for both the power and the volume control.
> 
> repair tip:
> you don't need to de-solder all six of the solder points for the power switch. just the two (top and bottom). once you get those freed up, you can pop the metal shielding off and simply replace the inner working of the power switch, reassemble and then re-solder.


Thanks thieves, it was actually my brothers DSL and he already ripped it apart, he asked me to fix his mess  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I just glued a little piece to it and it's sticking out of the hole now (I removed the plastic switch) so at least he can turn it on. One more thing, can overtightening the screws cause the DS not to turn on at all?


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## thieves like us (Oct 2, 2011)

if the mainboard isn't properly seated, overtightening the screws *can* cause issues. make sure that everything fits back together without you having to force the shell halves together.

the only pinch points should be the shafts that the shoulder buttons rotate on where you may have to "snap" the shells together to get the bottom of the shafts to "hit" the holes into the bottom of the case, but otherwise everything should go together without you having to force the halves to get them to fit together completely when screwing them together.


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## turnstile (Jul 5, 2012)

got to bump this topic.

i'm almost done reassembling my ds-- I did the quick battery test for troubleshooting and found that it turns on very briefly and then shuts off.

i checked the ribbon cable for the upper lcd and saw that it wasn't properly secured, so i made sure again. i kept testing but found that same stuff happens.

so... i could have possibly creased the ribbon for the upper lcd, or damaged it by pulling on it --  OR i didn't charge my battery enough prior to assembly (i haven't charged it a whole month now and forgot about it before i disassembled my ds). could that be the culprit? when i do the test, the battery indicator doesn't turn red. how creased is a ribbon supposed to get before it gets totally damaged?

as soon as i figure out how to put back the shoulder buttons and charge the damn thing, i'll get back to this board. but for now... some advice?? 

-----

edit: everything is ok now, and my ds works fine.


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## thieves like us (Aug 9, 2012)

turnstile:
glad to hear that you solved the problem. if you don't mind me asking, what was the issue; one of the display ribbon cables not securely inserted correctly or all of the way in?


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## Tom (Aug 9, 2012)

seems like it wasn't in straight/ in all the way


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## loco365 (Aug 23, 2012)

Excellent guide. I have two minor issues, though.

1. Both screens have a few flicker issues, whereas the top screen was only flickering before I did the case replacement, and
2. When folding the DS shut to put it in sleep mode, the screen goes all screwey in some positions.

I presume however, that 1 is a result of bad connections, and 2 is because of the position of the ribbon cable in the hinge, am I correct? All I'd have to do is crack it open again and fix the ribbon cable?


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