1. pure3d2

    pure3d2 Member
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    I'm using 0.1mm magnet wire as well. I just finished my install earlier in the week so can't comment on longevity. The amount of current moving through the wire is quite low (~90mA).
     
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  2. LiveMChief

    LiveMChief Member
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    Thanks for the post. Due to this covid stuff I think I'll pick up soldering and try something this(after some practice of course)
     
  3. Modzvilleusa

    Modzvilleusa Member
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  4. gamesquest1

    gamesquest1 Nabnut
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    nope, thats are just standard trinkets, all googles suggestions for buying for me are UK, if you have a look on shopping for the US you should be able to find one

    but if you're really so inclined here is a UK supplier selling them if you really can't find one in the US
    https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...tKK5jP7xjhMus1f9v99APMzU1Z4Saq2gaAkhwEALw_wcB
     
  5. 50CalCoffee

    50CalCoffee Newbie
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    Bought a switch before christmas , guy said only the game cart reader was faulty. I haven't even touched the thing til tonight, done the trinket install ( even managed the vol strap, that's some scary s*** btw ) booted to the fusee suite but my sd card wasn't showing up, on further inspection the boards sdcard port is mince meat :'( could of been me i have no clue
    Absolutely gutted.

    Anyone got any advice? or know someone that can replace it?

    93315095_2549390455390778_4545550935182540800_n.jpg 93357208_262662831445895_3955367251267289088_n.jpg 93624144_526827004654569_3518952497584537600_n.jpg
     
  6. gamesquest1

    gamesquest1 Nabnut
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    check out this thread, its possible to just jumper the contacts from the board directly to the SD slot
    https://gbatemp.net/threads/sd-card-port-issue.521485/

    its actually fairly easy for the SD slot pins to get lifted off the board when removing the reader board, so if you lifted the board out on the wrong angle when opening the console its possible you accidentally lifted them when you opened the console up
     
  7. 50CalCoffee

    50CalCoffee Newbie
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    Thanks! two of my pulled pins are ground, unsure if they both need hooked up.
    Think it got damaged when i was taking the case off, i didn't fit the shielding & just used a pad to raise the reader, its probably snagged
    *sigh*. I'll have a bash when the new reader arrives
     
  8. Cosmic_Link

    Cosmic_Link Advanced Member
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    @mattytrog Just wanted to say thanks for the comprehensive guide. Had a trinket installed from the very early revision of this method that you posted and have had no issues with it. Have just changed my installation, and am well pleased with the new setup. :) Used the alt points for my wires since I had the switch apart anyway, and was such a clean and easy install.

    Thanks for all the help and work you have provided to the community with this installation. :)
     
  9. pure3d2

    pure3d2 Member
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    Where do the other points on this LED go on the SAMD21 chip?
     
  10. pyorin

    pyorin Advanced Member
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    upload_2020-4-20_17-31-39.png

    SDI goes to pin 1 and CKI goes to pin 2 (so directly across from the D+ and D- pins), with VCC going to 3V and GND to ground naturally lol. to easily determine the orientation, look at the longer pads in between that are not listed on this diagram; the longer pad that has continuity to the smaller one next to it is VCC. I've been marking this corner with a red sharpie before I work, as these things are very small and easy to knock around :P also, the dotstar's part name is the APA102-2020, in case you want to source them individually.
     
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  11. djcraze

    djcraze GBAtemp Regular
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    I just got my Rebug installed. It was fairly painless. I was able to do it using some 30AWG and a really cheap soldering iron with .2mm tip. I didn’t even bother with the recommended 3.3v point on the capacitor and instead used the point on the MMC board. I originally tried to use the alt point on the underside of the logic board but found it to be difficult to work my iron into the tight space while also trying to position the wire.

    I also didn’t want to mess around with the original VOL+ STRAP and opted to use an alt point on the underside of the logic board.

    The same goes for the RCM strap. Though the point I used didn’t work at all and wasn’t connected like the alt point diagram had said. I tested by using a continuity tester. I was able to use the 2nd alt point on the underside with no issues. I noticed that my board looked a little different than the photo, with some extra traces and whatnot but all the test points were still in the same spot. So I dunno. At any rate, I’m attaching a photo showing which point worked for me and which one didn’t.

    All in all, if you have some amateur soldering experience and have patience I think you can do this mod. I didn’t think I would be able to do it but I really wasn’t all that difficult. Just tedious. And I don’t have a steady hand at all. Just be patient and take your time. Though forget those original solder points for 3.3v, RCM and VOL+. Those are absurd when the alternatives are much more feasible.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by djcraze, Apr 25, 2020
  12. blaww

    blaww Member
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    Tried installing a Trinket M0 but I'm fairly new to soldering and removing the USB port didn't go so well. I originally tried just using the soldering iron and some flux, but I couldn't get it off. Then I used a heat gun on the lowest setting and the port came off, but so did two pads. I went ahead with things anyway, using the "+" and "-" pads on the back thinking they were alternate points for USB data +/- (?). Booting into RCM and no payload is getting injected, Trinket cycles through colors and settles on red, and plugging it into PC gets me "USB device is not recognized."

    I'm pretty sure this Trinket is toast and I'm willing to try again at some point, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips for desoldering the USB port cleanly? Wiring it to the actual Switch was easy as pie so thankfully I don't seem to be in any danger of ruining my console. I was also a little confused on the firmware files. All I want is to auto inject a payload, I'm not interested in perma CFW, messing with volume or RCM straps, etc.
     
  13. jeklnoo

    jeklnoo GBAtemp Fan
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    For future reference, you should figure out what pads actually are before soldering to them, because you guessed wrong in this case. It sounds like you didn't fry your switch this time, but other incorrect combinations of wiring could easily short something out inside the switch, burning up an important chip somewhere.
     
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  14. blaww

    blaww Member
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    I definitely deserve a fried console doing things that way. Stupid, desperate gamble that came at the end of a long, frustrating trial and error process.
     
  15. MaterTip

    MaterTip Member
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    Hello i'm in need of help, My right joy con rail wont detect the joy con and i cant get into rcm mode. I tried to install the Trinket had it all wired up when this happend, i at 1st tried the joy con strap but accidentally ripped the solder tabs, i also crinkled the ribbon cable for it but i see no damage to it. I ordered a new rail con to install to see if that helps, but wondering if its not connecting because of the solder tabs? Any thoughts or fixes?
     
  16. radialblur

    radialblur Newbie
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    Hi all, in need of a little advice... Is my trinket a brick? I followed the software guide, got part 1 and 2 UF2 files and put the m0 in to updater mode (drivers installed) the drive mounted fine and I dropped FUSEE_SUITE_TRINKET.uf2 on to the unit... it rebooted, put in to update mode and dropped TRINKET.UF2 and it rebooted, but no longer mounts (windows doesn't make the recognition sound when it's plugged in)? Did I do something extraordinarily stupid? I read the software page multiple times and I though I was doing this correctly but being as it no longer mounts I am assuming I screwed up... Any advice? Thank you.



    Update:
    OK maybe not a brick, I paused a little longer with the double click and it now mounts as SWITCHBOOT... I'm gonna install it and see what happens :wtf:
     
    Last edited by radialblur, May 2, 2020
  17. Raugo

    Raugo GBAtemp Advanced Fan
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    Hello, I have the old version of rcm loader, would be possible to solder it internaly?

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Redefinition

    Redefinition Newbie
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    **Nevermind, it had nothing to do with the contacts. Swapped out the Trinket m0 with another and it worked fine. It looks like the Trinket m0 was bricked**

    Hello, I am having an issue with an install on a HAC-CPU-20 board. It has an anti-corrosion coating on each of the pads. I have done installs on other boards without any issues, but on this one, no matter what I do the trinket m0 stays red no matter what. I can boot into OFW without issue, and the joycon strap point works fine and gets me into RCM. However, I can't get the trinket to load the payload.bin off the SD card. I can boot into CFW by turning the Switch on and inject a payload through TegraRCM. Is the Trinket m0 the problem, or is it the anti-corrosion coating on the contacts causing the issue? If it's the coating, is there any way to remove it?

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by Redefinition, May 6, 2020
  19. dzdncfsd

    dzdncfsd Member
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    Thanks to endless days of staying home, I've been able to read 162 pages of this topic, and found it fascinating. It's also one of the most supportive and congenial topics I've seen on a forum. Amazing effort @mattytrog and others :-).

    I'm going to try and install something for fun, and I'd like to measure twice and cut once, so apologies if this is going into too much detail. I just want to get it right.

    - Is an Itsy Bitsy m0 or Trinket m0 a better option? It looks like there's no removing of components for the former, but the latter seems to the be object of choice for most. I don't have a heat gun/rework station, so am leaning to the former.

    - Anything missing from this list of equipment before I were to proceed?
    • Hakko FX-888D soldering iron with a T18-C05 tip
    • No clean liquid rosen flux, suitable for lead free or leaded soldering (has a giant "DANGER" written on it, so I guess it meets the more deadly the better expectation)
    • Magnet wire, 30AWG (I'm guessing 22 or 26 gauge is not a good option?)
    • Leaded solder, 0.8mm (60/40 mix)
    • 1cm wide kapton tape
    • A very bright light
    - What would be the appropriate temperature for the soldering iron?

    - While I've done a fair bit of standard component soldering over the years, I've never done SMD soldering, and I'd really like to avoid trying to solder to SMD caps/resistors based on the number of issues I've read about on this thread. My plan is:
    • Joycon strap - over on the left side of the board
    • Ground/D+/D-/USB Strap - the usual suggested locations around/to the right of the Switch's USB port
    • Vol+ strap - not planning to connect this. I don't mind holding two buttons down to get into the payload (not worried about burning fuses)
    Which leaves the 3V. Any reason to choose the eMMC over the left hand side main PCB point, or perhaps a point on the other side of the switch pcb? Actually, is there any reason not to just use the pads on the other side of the PCB that @pyorin has shown for all points, or is running magnet wire from the top side m0 to the bottom side not a wise decision?

    Thanks for any advice or constructive criticism on the length of this post :-)
     
  20. Scettles

    Scettles Member
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    I'm confused by this Gemma install pic... I haven't got my Gemma yet, and maybe it'll become more noticeable when I do... But do I have a but do I have a bunch of crap to remove from this board? What's the two things that are X'd... Battery holder top I think? Idk on the left/that red box? Do I remove the red box? Lol. Also, do I remove the USB port? It's not shown removed in this pic?
     
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