1. bobbyz

    bobbyz Newbie
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    Yeah, you're going to want to remove all of the things that are X'd out. It's mostly to slim the thing down. The little red line shown under the on/off switch shows you where to solder a little bridge so you can remove that switch as well.
     
  2. bobbyz

    bobbyz Newbie
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    So I just finished a gemma m0 install with the full 7 wires and I'm really happy with it. Thank you so much @mattytrog and @pyorin and everyone else in this thread who posted support/feedback/pictures/etc for everyone. I skimmed through the whole 162 pages of the thread before installing and all the info definitely helped!

    That said, I bungled something somewhere because my computer no longer recognizes the switch when plugged in via USB. :rofl2:

    The one mistake I know I made is with two of the 100k resistors next to the USB power delivery chip. I think I fixed it properly, but not 100% sure. Could these two resistors have any impact on USB data? I figured they would be related to charging and not data. USB charging itself still works right now. I checked some of the other things that a couple other folks had issues with for USB data but nothing is sticking out to me. If these two resistors wouldn't be the culprit, then I'll dig deeper and capture some photos of my own board too.

    If I can't figure it out, then I'll gladly trade USB data for the trinket, though! :P

    switch_resistors.png
     
  3. Scettles

    Scettles Member
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    so do i not need to remove the actuayl usb plug in on the gemma? or just optional? like itll fit on the metal casing in the airway part
     
  4. bobbyz

    bobbyz Newbie
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    If you cut the metal casing, then it'll fit. If you want it to fit on top of the casing and want to use your stock case, then you're going to have to remove as much as possible to trim it down. I removed the thick power port, the USB port, the on/off switch, and even the reset button itself and it just barely fits on the metal casing without a bulge.
     
  5. Scettles

    Scettles Member
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    Got any pics of ur install? Would love to see
     
  6. MaterTip

    MaterTip Member
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    i got a trinket M0 here that after i plugged in a few times it now dont enter any boot form and just gets hot to the touch when plugged in, is she blown or could capacitors be replaced?
     
  7. PTMD_GAMING

    PTMD_GAMING Newbie
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    Hi I was wondoring do you bridge the points for the on / off switch on the Gemma m0

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Hi I was wondoring do u have to bridge the on / off button on the gemma m0

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Hi I was wondoring do u have to bridge the on / off button on the gemma m0
     
  8. jeklnoo

    jeklnoo GBAtemp Fan
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    Hi I was wondering do u have to post the same thing 3 times
     
  9. PTMD_GAMING

    PTMD_GAMING Newbie
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  10. ChicoPancho

    ChicoPancho Advanced Member
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    Hey dudes. Im sorry if this sounds stupid, but the volume+ alternative solder point is the same as the volume+ strap right? Do some of the alternative solder points only work on certain chips? Thank you.
     
    Last edited by ChicoPancho, May 15, 2020
  11. pure3d2

    pure3d2 Member
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    Yes. Alternative solder points means it's another choice you can make if the main one isn't to your liking. You just choose 1 out of all of the alts, though.
     
  12. ChicoPancho

    ChicoPancho Advanced Member
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    Well thats okay since ive heard that the volume + strap point is super brittle and so are the other points where you solder to smd parts.
     
  13. pure3d2

    pure3d2 Member
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    I soldered to the pad which goes to the connector (yellow arrow): [​IMG]
     
  14. ChicoPancho

    ChicoPancho Advanced Member
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    Super close to the other pins and im not very good at soldering, so ill just use the tp on the back :)
     
  15. Matius

    Matius Member
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    Hi.

    "No longer" You mean after you installed the Trinket it worked then never worked, regarding USB?

    or you mean, before Trinket install, it worked fine but after it doesn't?

    Also, what wire did you use mate for the soldering?
     
  16. dzdncfsd

    dzdncfsd Member
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    Some answers to my own questions, now that I've gone through the process:

    I ended up going with the Trinket M0. It worked fine. I'm sure the other would too, but I was concerned that it would be harder to get help if things went wrong since most people seem to use the Trinket. In the end I borrowed a heat gun with small novel and the USB port removal was quick work.That said, when trying to clean up the trinket a little, I did lose one of the USB pads. Luckily it wasn't one of the ones needed for the project.

    Added: Sharpie, cotton buds, scissors, iFixit tools, USB Microscope from amazon to this list. The T18-C05 tip is very thin and pointy and was good for some of the tasks, but I found it hard to get the right heat from it for some of the tasks, so I swapped between the standard tip that came with the iron with this one. I'm definitely glad I had it for some of the tiny pads though.

    It depended on the tip I used and the work being done. generally I tried to stick to around 350C, but went as high as 450c at times with the narrow tip,

    I ended up doing the Joycon strap on the left hand side of the board, the 3V point underneath the emmc board, and didn't do the Vol+ strap. I didn't go with the points under the main PCB as I realised there would be a lot more disassembly required.

    Ultimately, it seems to have worked. I did reconnect the right joy con ribbon cable the wrong way the first time, but that was quickly and easily addressed. Thank again @mattytrog for the efforts in sharing how this can be done.

    IMG_3728.jpg
     
    Last edited by dzdncfsd, May 17, 2020
  17. dzdncfsd

    dzdncfsd Member
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    Strange thing happening with my Switch. It's been working just fine since the above mod, but last night when I tried to use it, the screen was black, despite it being on and otherwise functional. I can hear the UI sounds when I move the joysticks, the touchscreen works (I can hear clicking when I tap it). I've tried turning the console off completely. When I power on the switch from off, there is no display at any point. I've tried using a flashlight to see if its a broken backlight, and suspect it might be - I can see the UI. If I plug it into a dock, the green light glows, and I can see output on the TV.

    I opened it up and disconnected and reconnected the battery, but no change. I've checked the connections and they seemed okay. The M0 end of the USB strap wire seemed a little loose, so I re-soldered it, but still no change.

    Any suggestions what the problem might be? Like I said, the Switch was working fine for several days before-hand, so unsure why this might have suddenly occurred.

    *Fixed!*. Don't know what caused this issue in the first place, but I disconnected the battery for a while, wiggled the ribbon cables again, and the screen came back. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.

    Edit 1: initially said I couldn't see UI with a flashlight, but on further inspection, was able to.
    Edit 2: initially said I couldn't get anything up on the TV when docked, but have now been able to.
    Edit 3: fixed for now.
     
    Last edited by dzdncfsd, May 23, 2020 at 6:11 AM
  18. shadowLord05139

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    Hi all was just wondering has anyone came across a issue where the right joycon wont connect with the joycon strap installed
     
  19. dzdncfsd

    dzdncfsd Member
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    I did on my initial install, as I’d taken the joycon ribbon cable out and when reasembling put it in upside down. Maybe check if you did the same?
     
  20. shadowLord05139

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    This is what i thought at first but Upon disconnecting the joycon strap it works again, im starting to think the RCMX86 chips i got are dodgy the other one had pads not connected. I wonder if this one has bridged connections
     
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