Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[pure3d2]

Has anyone had issue using 0.1mm magnet wire I've had my trinket installed in the newer configuration for quite a while but yesterday it just stopped working and I had to reinstall it, The wires were all still attached can they burn out and stop working or something?

I'm using 0.1mm magnet wire as well. I just finished my install earlier in the week so can't comment on longevity. The amount of current moving through the wire is quite low (~90mA).

 

[LiveMChief]

Thanks for the post. Due to this covid stuff I think I'll pick up soldering and try something this(after some practice of course)

 

[Modzvilleusa]

I can't seen to find trinket M0s anywhere.
Are these 5v chips compatible?
https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Tri...rinket+m0&qid=1586937409&s=electronics&sr=1-1

 

[gamesquest1]

I can't seen to find trinket M0s anywhere.
Are these 5v chips compatible?
https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Tri...rinket+m0&qid=1586937409&s=electronics&sr=1-1

nope, thats are just standard trinkets, all googles suggestions for buying for me are UK, if you have a look on shopping for the US you should be able to find one

but if you're really so inclined here is a UK supplier selling them if you really can't find one in the US
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...tKK5jP7xjhMus1f9v99APMzU1Z4Saq2gaAkhwEALw_wcB

 

[50CalCoffee]

Bought a switch before christmas , guy said only the game cart reader was faulty. I haven't even touched the thing til tonight, done the trinket install ( even managed the vol strap, that's some scary s*** btw ) booted to the fusee suite but my sd card wasn't showing up, on further inspection the boards sdcard port is mince meat :'( could of been me i have no clue
Absolutely gutted.

Anyone got any advice? or know someone that can replace it?

 

[gamesquest1]

Bought a switch before christmas , guy said only the game cart reader was faulty. I haven't even touched the thing til tonight, done the trinket install ( even managed the vol strap, that's some scary s*** btw ) booted to the fusee suite but my sd card wasn't showing up, on further inspection the boards sdcard port is mince meat :'( could of been me i have no clue
Absolutely gutted.

Anyone got any advice? or know someone that can replace it?

View attachment 204942 View attachment 204943 View attachment 204944

check out this thread, its possible to just jumper the contacts from the board directly to the SD slot
https://gbatemp.net/threads/sd-card-port-issue.521485/

its actually fairly easy for the SD slot pins to get lifted off the board when removing the reader board, so if you lifted the board out on the wrong angle when opening the console its possible you accidentally lifted them when you opened the console up

 

[50CalCoffee]

check out this thread, its possible to just jumper the contacts from the board directly to the SD slot

Thanks! two of my pulled pins are ground, unsure if they both need hooked up.
Think it got damaged when i was taking the case off, i didn't fit the shielding & just used a pad to raise the reader, its probably snagged
*sigh*. I'll have a bash when the new reader arrives

 

[Cosmic_Link]

@mattytrog Just wanted to say thanks for the comprehensive guide. Had a trinket installed from the very early revision of this method that you posted and have had no issues with it. Have just changed my installation, and am well pleased with the new setup. Used the alt points for my wires since I had the switch apart anyway, and was such a clean and easy install.

Thanks for all the help and work you have provided to the community with this installation.

 

[pure3d2]

to get back on the topic of internal installs for a bit, I've been playing around with an idea

Where do the other points on this LED go on the SAMD21 chip?

 

[vulp_vibes]

Where do the other points on this LED go on the SAMD21 chip?

SDI goes to pin 1 and CKI goes to pin 2 (so directly across from the D+ and D- pins), with VCC going to 3V and GND to ground naturally lol. to easily determine the orientation, look at the longer pads in between that are not listed on this diagram; the longer pad that has continuity to the smaller one next to it is VCC. I've been marking this corner with a red sharpie before I work, as these things are very small and easy to knock around also, the dotstar's part name is the APA102-2020, in case you want to source them individually.

 

[djcraze]

I just got my Rebug installed. It was fairly painless. I was able to do it using some 30AWG and a really cheap soldering iron with .2mm tip. I didn’t even bother with the recommended 3.3v point on the capacitor and instead used the point on the MMC board. I originally tried to use the alt point on the underside of the logic board but found it to be difficult to work my iron into the tight space while also trying to position the wire.

I also didn’t want to mess around with the original VOL+ STRAP and opted to use an alt point on the underside of the logic board.

The same goes for the RCM strap. Though the point I used didn’t work at all and wasn’t connected like the alt point diagram had said. I tested by using a continuity tester. I was able to use the 2nd alt point on the underside with no issues. I noticed that my board looked a little different than the photo, with some extra traces and whatnot but all the test points were still in the same spot. So I dunno. At any rate, I’m attaching a photo showing which point worked for me and which one didn’t.

All in all, if you have some amateur soldering experience and have patience I think you can do this mod. I didn’t think I would be able to do it but I really wasn’t all that difficult. Just tedious. And I don’t have a steady hand at all. Just be patient and take your time. Though forget those original solder points for 3.3v, RCM and VOL+. Those are absurd when the alternatives are much more feasible.

 

[blaww]

Tried installing a Trinket M0 but I'm fairly new to soldering and removing the USB port didn't go so well. I originally tried just using the soldering iron and some flux, but I couldn't get it off. Then I used a heat gun on the lowest setting and the port came off, but so did two pads. I went ahead with things anyway, using the "+" and "-" pads on the back thinking they were alternate points for USB data +/- (?). Booting into RCM and no payload is getting injected, Trinket cycles through colors and settles on red, and plugging it into PC gets me "USB device is not recognized."

I'm pretty sure this Trinket is toast and I'm willing to try again at some point, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips for desoldering the USB port cleanly? Wiring it to the actual Switch was easy as pie so thankfully I don't seem to be in any danger of ruining my console. I was also a little confused on the firmware files. All I want is to auto inject a payload, I'm not interested in perma CFW, messing with volume or RCM straps, etc.

 

[jeklnoo]

I went ahead with things anyway, using the "+" and "-" pads on the back thinking they were alternate points for USB data +/- (?)

For future reference, you should figure out what pads actually are before soldering to them, because you guessed wrong in this case. It sounds like you didn't fry your switch this time, but other incorrect combinations of wiring could easily short something out inside the switch, burning up an important chip somewhere.

 

[blaww]

For future reference, you should figure out what pads actually are before soldering to them, because you guessed wrong in this case. It sounds like you didn't fry your switch this time, but other incorrect combinations of wiring could easily short something out inside the switch, burning up an important chip somewhere.

I definitely deserve a fried console doing things that way. Stupid, desperate gamble that came at the end of a long, frustrating trial and error process.

 

[MaterTip]

Hello i'm in need of help, My right joy con rail wont detect the joy con and i cant get into rcm mode. I tried to install the Trinket had it all wired up when this happend, i at 1st tried the joy con strap but accidentally ripped the solder tabs, i also crinkled the ribbon cable for it but i see no damage to it. I ordered a new rail con to install to see if that helps, but wondering if its not connecting because of the solder tabs? Any thoughts or fixes?

 

[radialblur]

Hi all, in need of a little advice... Is my trinket a brick? I followed the software guide, got part 1 and 2 UF2 files and put the m0 in to updater mode (drivers installed) the drive mounted fine and I dropped FUSEE_SUITE_TRINKET.uf2 on to the unit... it rebooted, put in to update mode and dropped TRINKET.UF2 and it rebooted, but no longer mounts (windows doesn't make the recognition sound when it's plugged in)? Did I do something extraordinarily stupid? I read the software page multiple times and I though I was doing this correctly but being as it no longer mounts I am assuming I screwed up... Any advice? Thank you.



Update:
OK maybe not a brick, I paused a little longer with the double click and it now mounts as SWITCHBOOT... I'm gonna install it and see what happens

 

[Raugo]

Hello, I have the old version of rcm loader, would be possible to solder it internaly?

 

[Redefinition]

**Nevermind, it had nothing to do with the contacts. Swapped out the Trinket m0 with another and it worked fine. It looks like the Trinket m0 was bricked**

Hello, I am having an issue with an install on a HAC-CPU-20 board. It has an anti-corrosion coating on each of the pads. I have done installs on other boards without any issues, but on this one, no matter what I do the trinket m0 stays red no matter what. I can boot into OFW without issue, and the joycon strap point works fine and gets me into RCM. However, I can't get the trinket to load the payload.bin off the SD card. I can boot into CFW by turning the Switch on and inject a payload through TegraRCM. Is the Trinket m0 the problem, or is it the anti-corrosion coating on the contacts causing the issue? If it's the coating, is there any way to remove it?

Thanks

 

[dzdncfsd]

Thanks to endless days of staying home, I've been able to read 162 pages of this topic, and found it fascinating. It's also one of the most supportive and congenial topics I've seen on a forum. Amazing effort @mattytrog and others :-).

I'm going to try and install something for fun, and I'd like to measure twice and cut once, so apologies if this is going into too much detail. I just want to get it right.

- Is an Itsy Bitsy m0 or Trinket m0 a better option? It looks like there's no removing of components for the former, but the latter seems to the be object of choice for most. I don't have a heat gun/rework station, so am leaning to the former.

- Anything missing from this list of equipment before I were to proceed?

• Hakko FX-888D soldering iron with a T18-C05 tip
• No clean liquid rosen flux, suitable for lead free or leaded soldering (has a giant "DANGER" written on it, so I guess it meets the more deadly the better expectation)
• Magnet wire, 30AWG (I'm guessing 22 or 26 gauge is not a good option?)
• Leaded solder, 0.8mm (60/40 mix)
• 1cm wide kapton tape
• A very bright light

- What would be the appropriate temperature for the soldering iron?

- While I've done a fair bit of standard component soldering over the years, I've never done SMD soldering, and I'd really like to avoid trying to solder to SMD caps/resistors based on the number of issues I've read about on this thread. My plan is:

• Joycon strap - over on the left side of the board
• Ground/D+/D-/USB Strap - the usual suggested locations around/to the right of the Switch's USB port
• Vol+ strap - not planning to connect this. I don't mind holding two buttons down to get into the payload (not worried about burning fuses)

Which leaves the 3V. Any reason to choose the eMMC over the left hand side main PCB point, or perhaps a point on the other side of the switch pcb? Actually, is there any reason not to just use the pads on the other side of the PCB that @pyorin has shown for all points, or is running magnet wire from the top side m0 to the bottom side not a wise decision?

Thanks for any advice or constructive criticism on the length of this post :-)

 

[Scettles]

I'm confused by this Gemma install pic... I haven't got my Gemma yet, and maybe it'll become more noticeable when I do... But do I have a but do I have a bunch of crap to remove from this board? What's the two things that are X'd... Battery holder top I think? Idk on the left/that red box? Do I remove the red box? Lol. Also, do I remove the USB port? It's not shown removed in this pic?