Hello everyone.
Today I will show and tell you how I cured the Nintendo Switch OLED from greed without damaging the motherboard in any way (from the point of view of a perfectionist).
To begin with, I ordered the production of “Adapters” for flash memory on JLCPCB.

The textolite parameters were the following +pinout of emmc adapter bga153 nintendo switch oled:

Delivery was quite fast, special thanks for that.

1.) When the “Nand Emmc Adapters” arrived, I disassembled the console, pulled out the board, and desoldered the emmc using bottom heating and a temperature of about 320 degrees Celsius. Then I reballed the memory and adapter. After that I put everything in the proper places, and soldered everything back.
Later I solder three wires to the adapter and laid them to the other side of the board (points CLK, CMD, DAT0).
I also solder and laid point called “Reset” to the other side of the board.



2.) Then I carefully removed metal shield (cover) from CPU and soldered the flex to the resistors, placing everything nicely, isolate with thermal tape, and returned the protection.



3.) The final bit of work was to solder everything to the modchip. Personally, I used “INSTUNCT-NX V6S” because it can be reset and flashed directly using the “TYPE-C” console port, but you can use whichever you like, there’s not much of a difference.



4.) While passing the wires, I used superglue to fixate them by binding them together (without gluing them to the board because it is a sacrilege).
So, after finishing soldering, I checked all resistors and points for short circuits, and everything was in perfect order.
BEFORE connecting the battery ALWAYS check for short circuits, otherwise, there is a risk of killing the processor or flash memory.

5.) I decided to turn on the console, and everything started up very quickly. I cleaned the board of flux residues and reassembled everything in the reverse order.



6.) Then I made backups and set the atmosphere exclusively for playing movies and music on my console

P.S Thank you for reading till the end!
Special thanks to A13XTR and Abal1000x!

Below I am attaching gerber files for the emmc adapter.

 

[izy]

"When the “Adapters” arrived, I disassembled the console, pulled out the board, and desoldered the emmc "
the reason the board gets cut is to avoid desoldering the emmc from system in first place

sure this is the perfectionist route thats been known for ages but the risk is larger

 

[Wi4House]

"When the “Adapters” arrived, I disassembled the console, pulled out the board, and desoldered the emmc "
the reason the board gets cut is to avoid desoldering the emmc from system in first place

sure this is the perfectionist route thats been known for ages but the risk is larger

Of course, but this method definitely looks much better and guarantees excellent contact.

 

[Hassal]

"When the “Adapters” arrived, I disassembled the console, pulled out the board, and desoldered the emmc "
the reason the board gets cut is to avoid desoldering the emmc from system in first place

sure this is the perfectionist route thats been known for ages but the risk is larger

Far from perfectionist, I've seen people who reballed only to have issues down the road. This and many other approaches already been tried.

 

[l7777]

Far from perfectionist, I've seen people who reballed only to have issues down the road. This and many other approaches already been tried.

"reballed" can have lots of meanings though. The re-ball methods I've seen in the past either involved soldering a wire or flex adapter to the dat0 ball and then reconnecting the rest. This obviously still leaves room for issues. I can't see how the interposer the OP has shown will cause any issues unless your re-balling skills failed you. It likely is the best method available with regards to the physical connections available right now. That said it does come with the downside of having to R&I the EMMC and associated interposer.

Then I reballed the memory and adapter. After that I put everything in the proper places, and soldered everything back.

Care to detail out the process here? Getting it right is clearly the most important part of the install.

 

[Hassal]

The only way you're getting a long lasting connection is through the kamikaze method. This will eventually fail like the rest.

 

[l7777]

The only way you're getting a long lasting connection is through the kamikaze method. This will eventually fail like the rest.

Is there a reason you expect everything to fail? I have an original xbox with 32 wires soldered to test pads that still works and my equipment then was nowhere near as good as it is today.

 

[Newtype]

Ah noticed it is Abal1000x his file, really wonder how long these reballed EMMC's hold up as popular youtuberes like sthetix advocate against reflowing.

 

[l7777]

Ah noticed it is Abal1000x his file, really wonder how long these reballed EMMC's hold up as popular youtuberes like sthetix advocate against reflowing.

Isn't he talking about simply trying to get a wire or adapter soldered to the dat0 ball without a full R&I? The problem i see with that is you're mixing lead free and leaded solder types. With a full R&I you can clean off the EMMC and reinstall with a single type.

 

[NEILYOUNG]

so great job

 

[Newtype]

Isn't he talking about simply trying to get a wire or adapter soldered to the dat0 ball without a full R&I? The problem i see with that is you're mixing lead free and leaded solder types. With a full R&I you can clean off the EMMC and reinstall with a single type.

Oh right, so a full reballing shouldn't crack if you wick it properly.

This is indeed the cleanest method then.

It’s just that some people advocate kamikaze and others advocate reballing if they have the skillset.

Wish there was a clear preferred meta

 

[Blavla]

The display plug does not like that heat if you heat it from under

 

[Wi4House]

The display plug does not like that heat if you heat it from under

That's why I use 3 layers of thermal tape on all plugs)

 

[Hassal]

Oh right, so a full reballing shouldn't crack if you wick it properly.

This is indeed the cleanest method then.

It’s just that some people advocate kamikaze and others advocate reballing if they have the skillset.

Wish there was a clear preferred meta

This actually is much worse than a single balled matrix because it would increase failure by a factor of 2.
I'm sorry, I'm just not keen of this approach. I tried the better approach with FPC, I still don't use it even though its better and less tedious than using FR4 PCB.

I still believe the better one is the drilling technique because there's no variables involved in this approach when it comes to a lasting connection. Even at one point I was working to design a drilling jig that would streamline the process but I stopped half way because I perfected the slide-in adapter.

 

[119880114]

Good idea.can you share INSTUNCT-NX V6S firmware or you boot0 files?
I want compare payloads and what is it different from V6?
You can delete important personal information from Boot0
Sorry, my English is not good

 

[impeeza]

"reballed" can have lots of meanings though. The re-ball methods I've seen in the past either involved soldering a wire or flex adapter to the dat0 ball and then reconnecting the rest. This obviously still leaves room for issues. I can't see how the interposer the OP has shown will cause any issues unless your re-balling skills failed you. It likely is the best method available with regards to the physical connections available right now. That said it does come with the downside of having to R&I the EMMC and associated interposer.


Care to detail out the process here? Getting it right is clearly the most important part of the install.

No, even a flex PCB to do the same to this is available on AliExpress but the resoldering of the memory is a very risk and skill needed process.

 

[deeps]

This actually is much worse than a single balled matrix because it would increase failure by a factor of 2.
I'm sorry, I'm just not keen of this approach. I tried the better approach with FPC, I still don't use it even though its better and less tedious than using FR4 PCB.

I still believe the better one is the drilling technique because there's no variables involved in this approach when it comes to a lasting connection. Even at one point I was working to design a drilling jig that would streamline the process but I stopped half way because I perfected the slide-in adapter.

This habit of trash talking the solution you didn't choose lowers the quality level of the discussion.

I and others have done hundreds of reball-adapter installs with zero failures.

Both solutions are fine if you know what you are doing.

 

[Hassal]

This habit of trash talking the solution you didn't choose lowers the quality level of the discussion.

I and others have done hundreds of reball-adapter installs with zero failures.

Both solutions are fine if you know what you are doing.

I'm not trash talking a solution just providing my input. You can disagree but it won't change facts.

 

[Slluxx]

Thing is that resoldering is risky, it does need skill to do correctly (good job on that) and it will introduce another factor of failure. There is absolutly no arguing about that.

That said, "the perfectionist route" is very subjective and an article/guide/writeup/howto like this can always be someones first introduction into this topic, completly ignoring the much cheaper and safer way to scratch/drill.

Instead of arguing in the comments about which is the better way to do it, i say: Write your messages not leaned to a side. If you want to inform, inform about all possible solutions, the pros and cons, risks and rewards and especially why you personally chose your way over another. Help others find their way instead of (intentionally or not) bias others.

This goes for anything you put online IMO.

 

[xstationbr]

Hello everyone.
Today I will show and tell you how I cured the Nintendo Switch OLED from greed without damaging the motherboard in any way (from the point of view of a perfectionist).
To begin with, I ordered the production of “Adapters” for flash memory on JLCPCB.

The textolite parameters were the following +pinout of emmc adapter bga153 nintendo switch oled:
View attachment 413521View attachment 413520
Delivery was quite fast, special thanks for that.

1.) When the “Nand Emmc Adapters” arrived, I disassembled the console, pulled out the board, and desoldered the emmc using bottom heating and a temperature of about 320 degrees Celsius. Then I reballed the memory and adapter. After that I put everything in the proper places, and soldered everything back.
Later I solder three wires to the adapter and laid them to the other side of the board (points CLK, CMD, DAT0).
I also solder and laid point called “Reset” to the other side of the board.

View attachment 413523View attachment 413519

2.) Then I carefully removed metal shield (cover) from CPU and soldered the flex to the resistors, placing everything nicely, isolate with thermal tape, and returned the protection.

View attachment 413522

3.) The final bit of work was to solder everything to the modchip. Personally, I used “INSTUNCT-NX V6S” because it can be reset and flashed directly using the “TYPE-C” console port, but you can use whichever you like, there’s not much of a difference.

View attachment 413525

4.) While passing the wires, I used superglue to fixate them by binding them together (without gluing them to the board because it is a sacrilege).
So, after finishing soldering, I checked all resistors and points for short circuits, and everything was in perfect order.
BEFORE connecting the battery ALWAYS check for short circuits, otherwise, there is a risk of killing the processor or flash memory.

5.) I decided to turn on the console, and everything started up very quickly. I cleaned the board of flux residues and reassembled everything in the reverse order.

View attachment 413518View attachment 413524

6.) Then I made backups and set the atmosphere exclusively for playing movies and music on my console

P.S Thank you for reading till the end!
Special thanks to A13XTR and Abal1000x!

Below I am attaching gerber files for the emmc adapter.

Very good. I have soldered at old method, but i dreaming an day these methods on emmc or dammned POINT A have no more necessary to use. At this moment i stoped to modfie Oled cause various problems, NAND, POINT A, Bricks cause RP2040 is Instable etc