Picofly AIO Thread

Adran_Marit

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This is a Pikofly AIO Thread/Tutorial.
This information has been pulled from other threads and forums on this site, I haven't done anything except compile it in this one thread.
All credit goes to those who worked on all the relevant information and stuff.


First things First; I not not endorse piracy and those who released the firmware don't either so this is for home-brew use only.


DOING THIS MODIFCATION TO YOUR SWITCH MAY CAUSE PERMANENT DAMGE. I RECOMMEND YOU HAVE THIS DONE BY A PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER



DISCLAIMER! Me or any of the other temp members who helped make this happen can not be held liable to any damage you cause your console in attempting to mod it. Professional installation is recommended for this mod.

Just because a mod is cheap doesn't mean it's easy. - Trust me I learnt the hard way - Adran 2023


Picofly install Guide - Credits to @lightninjay

FW Changelog - Note All Further firmwares will be in root firmware folder of GitHub

Changelog: 2.61

- no more magic for xiao/itsy, detection by shorting pins
-- for xiao2040 please short GPIO 1 & 2
-- for itsybitsy please short GPIO 2 & 3

- moved to the latest sdloader version (I know, logo sucks now)
- software update bugfixes, rollback works fine now
ChangeLog 2.6 Alpha:
- fixed regulator setup
- firmware update feature (+ rollback to backup in case of non-working fw update)
- multiple boards support (no idea if that works, magic, ensure LED blinks after write! that means detection worked fine!!)
- extended OFW support, should not break BOOT0 anymore, OFW BCT is copied into the unused space

-BUGS-
AUTOHOS Poweroff broken

General InformationInstallation overviewImagesCredits


  1. RequirementsWorking ModelsError and LED CodesBoard Pinout ListHintsFAQ's


      • RP2040-Zero
      • SMD 0805 47 to 50 ohm Resistors
      • Mosfet (IRFHS8342 MOSFET) or cpu flex cable - I personally recommend - (v1 for v1, v2 flex for v2 mariko etc etc but yes you can use a v2 with a v1 flex and vice versa it just needs modding)
      • switch (duh)
      • Wire
      • RP2040 Firmware (Do not flash firmware from the archive folder unless advised to)

    1. - Erista Unpatched (Toshiba, Samsung)
      - Erista Patched (SanDisk, Samsung)
      - OLED (SK Hynix)
      - OLED (Samsung)
      - Mariko (Samsung)
      - Lite (SK Hynix)
      - Lite (Samsung)

    2. 3 colours: blue (glitching), white (flashing), yellow (error code). This was made to make possible pi pico debugging + get rid of RGB/GRB issues
      Error codes list (= is long pulse, * is short pulse):

      = USB flashing done

      ** RST is not connected
      *= CMD is not connected
      =* D0 is not connected
      == CLK is not connected

      =** eMMC init failure during glitch process
      =*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
      ==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
      === Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch

      =*** eMMC init failure
      =**= eMMC write failure - comparison failed
      =*=* eMMC write failure - write failed
      =*== eMMC test failure - read failed
      ==** eMMC read failed during firmware update
      ==*= BCT copy failed - write failure
      ===* BCT copy failed - comparison failure
      ==== BCT copy failed - read failure

      LED must be RED after USB write. if you see green, set "RGB mode" jumper

      WHITE = eMMC write
      BLUE = glitch
      PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
      YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
      CYAN = no reaction to glitch, check mosfet wire
      GREEN = success

    3. !!!!PinOut for Other Boards!!!! (resistors / mosfets are still required)

      Common GPIO for all boards:
      CMD => 28
      CLK => 27
      RST => 26

      Waveshare 2040-zero / 2040-one (default, floating pins 29, 11, 16):
      DAT => 29
      CPU => 15

      Raspberry Pi Pico (detected by thermal sensor on pin 29):
      DAT => 22
      CPU => 21

      XIAO2040 (detected by LED power on pin 11):
      DAT => 29
      CPU => 6

      Adafruit ItsyBitsy (detected by LED power on pin 16):
      DAT => 29
      CPU => 24

      • If you are using a flex cable - Solder to the middle 2 pins of the flex
      • If rebooting to OFW vol buttons don't work and blue or black screen
        • boot into full stock and perform full system reset
      • Other Mosfets you can use are; np2016, FDMA7672

    4. Q: What Switches are supported?
      A: Unpatched Eristsa (v1), Patched Erista (v1), Mariko (v2, Lite, OLED, )

      Q: Will the RP2040-One work?
      A: Yes

      Q: eMMC types support?
      A: Tested on Hynix, Samsung, Toshiba, SanDisk

      Q: GREEN led, but instant reset
      A: Check your soldering, clean flux. If does not help = add 20K-30K to RST

      Q: Do I really need 47 Ohm resistors?
      A: You can skip them, however in this case you will have to use emuMMC due to the line interference, sysNAND would not boot.

      Q: Does the firmware have learning? How to reset statistics
      A: Short pin 0 to either 1 or GND during start for chip reset. The statistics is collected each boot. The more you start it - the better it boots.

      Q: Is this open source?
      A: Yes

      Q: Why did you make it?
      A: To prove it was possible!

      Q: Does this run Atmosphere?
      A: Yes

      Q: Does this play backups?
      A: No Piracy

      Q: Is someone working on a better board so I don't have to remove components from the RP2040?
      A: Yes, but patience (see Rp2040-one, RP2040-tiny, mcfly etc)


    • Download Firmware
    • Hold bootsel button and plug into pc
    • Upload firmware.uf2 file to your rp2040-zero
    • remove USB port, 3.3v regulator and buttons from your rp2040-zero
    • add the three (or 4 if your have trouble) resistors to your rp2040-zero (see images)
    • follow installation diagram and process for your model switch
    • ???
    • profit as you can now boot to hekate or atmosphere.
    • I *HIGHLY* recommend that upon booting into hekate for the first time you make a full and complete nand backup with keys

  2. Mosfet ImagesSolder Points


    1. i2coled-jpg.371871

      Oled i2c SDA/SCL Points **UNTESTED**
      marikodual-mosfet-jpg.363515

      Mariko Dual Mosfet Install Diagram

      erista_mosfet-jpg.363527

      Erista Dual Mosfet install


    2. v2i2c-jpg.371698

      v2 SDA/SLC
      5RsNDGS.jpeg

      OLED Points
      pinout_emmc.jpeg

      V2 Switch

      pinout_lite.jpeg

      Switch Lite

      image.jpg
      V1 Patched/V2 Points

      XIAO2040 Pinout.jpg
      XIAO2040 Seed Pinout

      ItsyBitsy Pinout.jpg
      Itsybitsy Pinout
      pinout.jpg

      Rp2040-Zero Points + Led Codes


  3. Rehius - Locked Firmware, Unlocking Files, LED Information, FAQ, Images
    flynnsmt4 - For bypassing the security on the locked FW
    Vittorio - 2.5fw+unlocked FW in one file
    Anyone who tested
    Anyone else who contributed to the thread (all 118 plus pages of it)
    The Original Dev


Changelog:
Added fw 2.70+ error codes
Added Oled i2c image.
Yo ho yo ho a mcfly life for me

29-april-2023
Hardware sources added
16-April 2023

Updated Raspberry Pi Pico Pinout

14-April-2023
Added more pinouts
Added install guide
Added Confirmed Models

8-April-2023
Added FW 2.61 and changelog

7-Apr-2023
- Fixed size Mistake
- Added Firmware 2.6Alpha
-added Firmware 2.6a changelod and more board support pinout.

29-mar-2023
- Added link to Toshiba Firmware for rp2040
- Added alternative mosfets
- Added Erista (patched) diagram
P.S More formatting and information to come
 
Last edited by Magnus Hydra,

Adran_Marit

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i can´t understand the mariko mosfet diagram, can anyone explain a little bit more

I personally recommend getting the flex, but from my understanding you need to wire it in such a way that one leg of the mosfet is touching and another is no where near, with your wire to the chip on the other side.

I would suggest maybe asking @binkinator if they know
 

detilmalala

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I personally recommend getting the flex, but from my understanding you need to wire it in such a way that one leg of the mosfet is touching and another is no where near, with your wire to the chip on the other side.

I would suggest maybe asking @binkinator if they know
Post automatically merged:

is that correct?
 

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binkinator

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I personally recommend getting the flex, but from my understanding you need to wire it in such a way that one leg of the mosfet is touching and another is no where near, with your wire to the chip on the other side.

I would suggest maybe asking @binkinator if they know
i can´t understand the mariko mosfet diagram, can anyone explain a little bit more

Here’s the “official” pics:

1679400972388.png
1679401007593.png


Here is a labeled mosfet.

1679401102770.png


Which part are you curious about?
Post automatically merged:

Post automatically merged:

is that correct?
Yes. That is correct.

Hold on a sec. I remember the conversation that spawned the graphic you posted. Let me double check, I think that one might be reversed. :-o
 
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detilmalala

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binkinator

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Post automatically merged:

This image is the one I don't understand, it's different from all the welds I've seen

View attachment 360445
That one is clever…but tricky. Same effect but it removes a cap so you can get the orientation correct. I’m wary of it because it sits on top of unused connections so you have to isolate the pads underneath the chip so you don’t short anything out. It will work, but tricky. Use the most recent ones from @rehius that I posted above. Let me explain…

The point of this device is that you want to use the (G)ate to trigger a connection from (S)ink to (D)rain. (G) is controlled by the CPU wire coming off the Pico. You want to make sure you have the (S) and (D) orientation correct. See the “labeled mosfet” pic I posted above for the manufacturer’s layout of the actual chip.
 
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detilmalala

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That one is clever…but tricky. Same effect but it removes a cap so you can get the orientation correct. I’m wary of it because it sits on top of unused connections so you have to isolate the pads underneath the chip so you don’t short anything out. It will work, but tricky. Use the most recent ones from @rehius that I posted above. Let me explain…

The point of this device is that you want to use the (G)ate to trigger a connection from (S)ink to (D)rain. You want to make sure you have the (S) and (D) orientation correct. See the “labeled mosfet” pic I posted above for the manufacturer’s layout of the actual chip.
That one is clever…but tricky. Same effect but it removes a cap so you can get the orientation correct. I’m wary of it because it sits on top of unused connections so you have to isolate the pads underneath the chip so you don’t short anything out. It will work, but tricky. Use the most recent ones from @rehius that I posted above. Let me explain…

The point of this device is that you want to use the (G)ate to trigger a connection from (S)ink to (D)rain. You want to make sure you have the (S) and (D) orientation correct. See the “labeled mosfet” pic I posted above for the manufacturer’s layout of the actual chip.
you are amazing, you can put the letters in each point of this image to clarify

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 

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binkinator

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you are amazing, you can put the letters in each point of this image to clarify

View attachment 360448
Here you go:

9DC48409-C509-46A4-9EBA-5AA1E6752758.jpeg

(On a side note, after having gone through this little exercise, I think I’m going to mount my mosfet dead-bug style so it will orient properly and look cool like the Erista chip…all side mounted with no wires going from mosfet to the caps.)
 

detilmalala

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Here you go:

View attachment 360450

(On a side note, after having gone through this little exercise, I think I’m going to mount my mosfet dead-bug style so it will orient properly and look cool like the Erista chip…all side mounted with no wires going from mosfet to the caps.)
thank you very much, if you do the installation by removing the capacitor, it would be great if you could upload photos, and again thank you very much for your contribution

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 

Phantomas77

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Here you go:

View attachment 360450

(On a side note, after having gone through this little exercise, I think I’m going to mount my mosfet dead-bug style so it will orient properly and look cool like the Erista chip…all side mounted with no wires going from mosfet to the caps.)
I subscribe both to the pin layout and to the deadbug style, just ordered some FETs from Digikey.
What AWG will you be using Binki? I remember that we need to go thick here
 

binkinator

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I subscribe both to the pin layout and to the deadbug style, just ordered some FETs from Digikey.
What AWG will you be using Binki? I remember that we need to go thick here
If I do the dead bug? I only need the control wire because, when upside down, the orientation of the mosfet will be correct and I will be able to attach the it to the cap similar to how the Erista chip does it.

FC612029-78CA-42A8-9D0B-2607AD4E9215.jpeg

See? No gauge! ;-)
 
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marhalloweenvt

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I think maybe I should modify Sx cable to fit this project, so that we could stay away completely with hwfly. The motivation behind this is I would like to prevent people from damage their APU with Mosfet and in the future, people don't have to buy spare part from hwfly.

WIP: Grab leaked sx cable design, transfer to Kicad and robust a little bit to suit with Pikofly project.
1679407791863.png


With oshpark, price is around 12$ for 3 flex cables, quite affordable right?
1679407350822.png
 

SylverReZ

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I think maybe I should modify Sx cable to fit this project, so that we could stay away completely with hwfly. The motivation behind this is I would like to prevent people from damage their APU with Mosfet and in the future, people don't have to buy spare part from hwfly.

WIP: Grab leaked sx cable design, transfer to Kicad and robust a little bit to suit with Pikofly project.
View attachment 360473

With oshpark, price is around 12$ for 3 flex cables, quite affordable right?
View attachment 360470
Amazing work so far. :D:wub:
 

Dee87

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I think maybe I should modify Sx cable to fit this project, so that we could stay away completely with hwfly. The motivation behind this is I would like to prevent people from damage their APU with Mosfet and in the future, people don't have to buy spare part from hwfly.

WIP: Grab leaked sx cable design, transfer to Kicad and robust a little bit to suit with Pikofly project.
View attachment 360473

With oshpark, price is around 12$ for 3 flex cables, quite affordable right?
View attachment 360470
would u provide us with the file maybe please :-)
 

Assidefok

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I think maybe I should modify Sx cable to fit this project, so that we could stay away completely with hwfly. The motivation behind this is I would like to prevent people from damage their APU with Mosfet and in the future, people don't have to buy spare part from hwfly.

WIP: Grab leaked sx cable design, transfer to Kicad and robust a little bit to suit with Pikofly project.
View attachment 360473

With oshpark, price is around 12$ for 3 flex cables, quite affordable right?
View attachment 360470
We should still need mosfets right? Also emmc adapter for v2 and pub adapter to hold everything with conectors
 
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