Ho god you are the best, Should I need to solder the 2 pin together ? Or just one ? Thanks for this, you made my day !Use this one on emmc board.
Ho god you are the best, Should I need to solder the 2 pin together ? Or just one ? Thanks for this, you made my day !Use this one on emmc board.
If you can, solder to both of them since it makes a better connection. But one should work aswellHo god you are the best, Should I need to solder the 2 pin together ? Or just one ? Thanks for this, you made my day !
Make some photo of soldering and a video of pico booting maybe we can spot somethingHi all.
Well, installed in Mariko with two mosfets and when power on led flash blue and quickly green but nothing in LCD, and with volume button cant enter ofw, if I remove the pico boots fine, any sugestion?
Thank you.
Did you do the installation yourself? Did you place all the heat shield/sinks correctly? Did you apply thermal paste on all 3 shields? Is your fan working.anyone had issue with CFW/OFW probably overheating or something, and in hekate is everything (battery, temp, etc.) good?
in CFW sometimes i can get past boot logo, and in OFW i can stay longer, but in both cases my switch just turns off. I havent noticed that this unit was bad before picofly.
Make some photo of soldering and a video of pico booting maybe we can spot something
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Did you do the installation yourself? Did you place all the heat shield/sinks correctly? Did you apply thermal paste on all 3 shields? Is your fan working.
How do you know that is overheating?
Do you have photos of the work done?
More information is needed to even take a guess.
Well this being your 4th install eliminates most of the obvoius reasons since these mistakes are usualy done by people who never opened a switch.this is my 4th v2 install (1x oled and 1x lite), i dont have any pic with me right now. I booted into OFW and tried factory reset. however fan started spining like crazy and metal shield above cpu heatsink is too hot. shield/sinks/paste is applied fine (i tried to reapply it again). interesting about this issue is, that everything is ok when hekate is booted
If you are talking about point 1 (see picture) then just leave that alone a solder somewhere in the shield (like no2 in the photo)good morning I wanted to try to install the picofly. after several attempts and kg of flux the pond does not attack. Advice? I'm using tin 60/40 what am I doing wrong?
type the RST point and the other points on the motherboard. I use 60/40 but it doesn't attackIf you are talking about point 1 (see picture) then just leave that alone a solder somewhere in the shield (like no2 in the photo)
Edit: 60/40 is good but if you can get 63/37 it's better
THANKS, everything work fine now !If you can, solder to both of them since it makes a better connection. But one should work aswell
I think that you need to fix that trace first.
I messed up the RST point on my V2 board :/ Is there another place I can solder RST to?
If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.type the RST point and the other points on the motherboard. I use 60/40 but it doesn't attack
Thank you, now led blink green, yellow and stop so will do d0 short tomorrow.Well this being your 4th install eliminates most of the obvoius reasons since these mistakes are usualy done by people who never opened a switch.
Is it possible that you have a short somewhere?
I know is alot of work but I would remove the whole pico setup and see if the unit itself is working OK without all the wires
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@seraser2 Try using different 3v3 and GND points.
Also, use thicker wires for these 2 points
Oh damn that’s like an order of magnitude harder than what I could do no other way to do this? Get rst from another place and solder to these components?I think that you need to fix that trace first.
CAREFULLY scrape the green solder mask as indicated in the photo with yellow marking.
Then you need to solder 3 wires (you can use same wire but it will be more difficult)
Wire nr1 and nr2 is to restore the damaged trace and wire nr3 should go to RST point in Pico.
The Diode in that point might also be damaged (I can't see clearly) but it's worth a try.
If you are not confident you can do this, take it to a professional before more damage is done.
Good luck
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If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.
You can but it will not be easier and I doubt that the switch will work without fixing that damaged trace.Oh damn that’s like an order of magnitude harder than what I could do no other way to do this? Get rst from another place and solder to these components?
I think that you need to fix that trace first.
CAREFULLY scrape the green solder mask as indicated in the photo with yellow marking.
Then you need to solder 3 wires (you can use same wire but it will be more difficult)
Wire nr1 and nr2 is to restore the damaged trace and wire nr3 should go to RST point in Pico.
The Diode in that point might also be damaged (I can't see clearly) but it's worth a try.
If you are not confident you can do this, take it to a professional before more damage is done.
Good luck
Post automatically merged:
If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.
I think that you need to fix that trace first.
CAREFULLY scrape the green solder mask as indicated in the photo with yellow marking.
Then you need to solder 3 wires (you can use same wire but it will be more difficult)
Wire nr1 and nr2 is to restore the damaged trace and wire nr3 should go to RST point in Pico.
The Diode in that point might also be damaged (I can't see clearly) but it's worth a try.
If you are not confident you can do this, take it to a professional before more damage is done.
Good luck
Post automatically merged:
If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.
The through hole via in Orange needs to join with 1,2,3 as well, other wise you need a jumper from EMMC soket pin2 from top to the 123 joint.I messed up the RST point on my V2 board :/ Is there another place I can solder RST to?