Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Jorian]

Use this one on emmc board.

Ho god you are the best, Should I need to solder the 2 pin together ? Or just one ? Thanks for this, you made my day !

 

[QuiTim]

Ho god you are the best, Should I need to solder the 2 pin together ? Or just one ? Thanks for this, you made my day !

If you can, solder to both of them since it makes a better connection. But one should work aswell

 

[Deleted member 542674]

......

 

[seraser2]

Hi all.

Well, installed in Mariko with two mosfets and when power on led flash blue and quickly green but nothing in LCD, and with volume button cant enter ofw, if I remove the pico boots fine, any sugestion?

Thank you.

 

[QuiTim]

Hi all.

Well, installed in Mariko with two mosfets and when power on led flash blue and quickly green but nothing in LCD, and with volume button cant enter ofw, if I remove the pico boots fine, any sugestion?

Thank you.

Make some photo of soldering and a video of pico booting maybe we can spot something

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

anyone had issue with CFW/OFW probably overheating or something, and in hekate is everything (battery, temp, etc.) good?
in CFW sometimes i can get past boot logo, and in OFW i can stay longer, but in both cases my switch just turns off. I havent noticed that this unit was bad before picofly.

Did you do the installation yourself? Did you place all the heat shield/sinks correctly? Did you apply thermal paste on all 3 shields? Is your fan working.
How do you know that is overheating?
Do you have photos of the work done?
More information is needed to even take a guess.

 

[Deleted member 542674]

.....

 

[seraser2]

Make some photo of soldering and a video of pico booting maybe we can spot something

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

Did you do the installation yourself? Did you place all the heat shield/sinks correctly? Did you apply thermal paste on all 3 shields? Is your fan working.
How do you know that is overheating?
Do you have photos of the work done?
More information is needed to even take a guess.

 

[QuiTim]

this is my 4th v2 install (1x oled and 1x lite), i dont have any pic with me right now. I booted into OFW and tried factory reset. however fan started spining like crazy and metal shield above cpu heatsink is too hot. shield/sinks/paste is applied fine (i tried to reapply it again). interesting about this issue is, that everything is ok when hekate is booted

Well this being your 4th install eliminates most of the obvoius reasons since these mistakes are usualy done by people who never opened a switch.
Is it possible that you have a short somewhere?
I know is alot of work but I would remove the whole pico setup and see if the unit itself is working OK without all the wires

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

@seraser2 Try using different 3v3 and GND points.
Also, use thicker wires for these 2 points

 

[Roberto85]

good morning I wanted to try to install the picofly. after several attempts and kg of flux the pond does not attack. Advice? I'm using tin 60/40 what am I doing wrong?

 

[QuiTim]

good morning I wanted to try to install the picofly. after several attempts and kg of flux the pond does not attack. Advice? I'm using tin 60/40 what am I doing wrong?

If you are talking about point 1 (see picture) then just leave that alone a solder somewhere in the shield (like no2 in the photo)
Edit: 60/40 is good but if you can get 63/37 it's better

 

[supergnu]

I messed up the RST point on my V2 board :/ Is there another place I can solder RST to?

 

[Roberto85]

If you are talking about point 1 (see picture) then just leave that alone a solder somewhere in the shield (like no2 in the photo)
Edit: 60/40 is good but if you can get 63/37 it's better

type the RST point and the other points on the motherboard. I use 60/40 but it doesn't attack

 

[Jorian]

If you can, solder to both of them since it makes a better connection. But one should work aswell

THANKS, everything work fine now !

 

[QuiTim]

I messed up the RST point on my V2 board :/ Is there another place I can solder RST to?

I think that you need to fix that trace first.
CAREFULLY scrape the green solder mask as indicated in the photo with yellow marking.
Then you need to solder 4 wires (you can use same wire but it will be more difficult)
Wire nr1, nr2 and nr4 is to restore the damaged trace and wire nr3 should go to RST point in Pico.
The Diode in that point might also be damaged (I can't see clearly) but it's worth a try.
If you are not confident you can do this, take it to a professional before more damage is done.
*Edit*: post and photo edited to include correct information regarding through hole point (nr.4 in photo) provided by @jkyoho
Good luck

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

type the RST point and the other points on the motherboard. I use 60/40 but it doesn't attack

If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.

 

[seraser2]

Well this being your 4th install eliminates most of the obvoius reasons since these mistakes are usualy done by people who never opened a switch.
Is it possible that you have a short somewhere?
I know is alot of work but I would remove the whole pico setup and see if the unit itself is working OK without all the wires

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

@seraser2 Try using different 3v3 and GND points.
Also, use thicker wires for these 2 points

Thank you, now led blink green, yellow and stop so will do d0 short tomorrow.

 

[supergnu]

I think that you need to fix that trace first.
CAREFULLY scrape the green solder mask as indicated in the photo with yellow marking.
Then you need to solder 3 wires (you can use same wire but it will be more difficult)
Wire nr1 and nr2 is to restore the damaged trace and wire nr3 should go to RST point in Pico.
The Diode in that point might also be damaged (I can't see clearly) but it's worth a try.
If you are not confident you can do this, take it to a professional before more damage is done.
Good luck

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.

Oh damn that’s like an order of magnitude harder than what I could do no other way to do this? Get rst from another place and solder to these components?

 

[QuiTim]

Oh damn that’s like an order of magnitude harder than what I could do no other way to do this? Get rst from another place and solder to these components?

You can but it will not be easier and I doubt that the switch will work without fixing that damaged trace.
But you are welcome to try, gotta learn somehow

 

[LogicalMadness]

I think that you need to fix that trace first.
CAREFULLY scrape the green solder mask as indicated in the photo with yellow marking.
Then you need to solder 3 wires (you can use same wire but it will be more difficult)
Wire nr1 and nr2 is to restore the damaged trace and wire nr3 should go to RST point in Pico.
The Diode in that point might also be damaged (I can't see clearly) but it's worth a try.
If you are not confident you can do this, take it to a professional before more damage is done.
Good luck

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.

You have the patience of a SAINT!

 

[jkyoho]

I think that you need to fix that trace first.
CAREFULLY scrape the green solder mask as indicated in the photo with yellow marking.
Then you need to solder 3 wires (you can use same wire but it will be more difficult)
Wire nr1 and nr2 is to restore the damaged trace and wire nr3 should go to RST point in Pico.
The Diode in that point might also be damaged (I can't see clearly) but it's worth a try.
If you are not confident you can do this, take it to a professional before more damage is done.
Good luck

Post automatically merged: May 15, 2023

If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.

I messed up the RST point on my V2 board :/ Is there another place I can solder RST to?

The through hole via in Orange needs to join with 1,2,3 as well, other wise you need a jumper from EMMC soket pin2 from top to the 123 joint.

 

[Roberto85]

If none of the solder points are working for you, your equipment is not good.
You need a good/fine solder tip that tins well (holds solder).
It needs to reach temperature above 350°
Use high temperature (350°-400°) for a short period of time (2-3seconds) to avoid damaging the board.
[/QUOTE]
I use the ts100 as a welder. that's why I thought the problem was the stgno