Nice quality photo.Already make over 50 Picofly 20 oled do have any problems before. Always make RGB mode is must be PURPLE not Pink
Did you check for a short on CLK. That top part of the shield just seems to close to the point (assuming you routed the wire beneath the shield).
The color suggests something in that direction as well.
Don't source the 3.3V from those caps, it's not stable, rehius already warned about it.Already make over 50 Picofly 20 oled do have any problems before. Always make RGB mode is must be PURPLE not Pink
Use the point from AIO guide and updated sthetix diagrams (see below).
Attachments
Temp is based on the solder you use and what you're soldering to, it something you learn early on. Please dont attemp if you're new to soldering unless you want a broken switch
The lower the temperature the better are chances of not causing any damage so you need to see what works for your soldering iron.
The highest temp. I used on anything is 350° (assuming that the temp. readings on my iron are correct).
Anyway, one thing to keep in mind is that it's better to use higher temp. for short period than lower temp for longer period.
I have a Hakko. So temp can be changed, that was my understanding best to use higher temp for shorter periods, most other comments are leaning towards no higher than 350
Last edited by 789-Benny,
because We dont know what solder you're using, lead free solder uses a higher temp
I personally have soldered all the way up to 400 degrees C on a switch lite, the mosfets, a rp2040 doing resistors, in fact, I rarely go below 390C. BUT, I am also experienced at soldering at these temps with these small components. I know how long to hold my iron on the point I'm trying to solder and how not to burn components at these temps.
This is not the place to learn how to solder or get soldering tips. This is a place to learn how to install a picofly, which technically speaking has nothing to do with the soldering involved to install it.
I would suggest you get some lead solder 63/37 or similar. It makes everything easier. the one that you are using has a melting temp of 227° compared to Sn63/Pb37 of 183° or Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 of 179°
if you are in US you should have no problem getting Lead based solder (Kester is awesome).
Trying to get this stuff in EU is a nightmare.
Post automatically merged:
i dont know what issues you are facing but those cards are not good for anything.
Get a SanDisk, Samsung Evo or Kingstone Canvas.
Basically any established brand name (beware of fakes)
Last edited by QuiTim,
If you want to play by the rule, then you also need to buy professional temperature meter, and calibrate your hakko based on that, for the tip you will be used.
Post automatically merged:
Have you tried atmosphere setup from here:
https://rentry.org/CFWGuides
Last edited by abal1000x,
Here is a composite image I just took of a double mosfet install I am doing on a switch lite. The circles are the general points of interest and where they need to be hooked up. I jumpered between the gate pins on the mosfets and ran a single wire to the rp2040 to keep wire clutter down, as has been suggested previously.
Similar threads
-
@
Veho:
Reminded that every single price gouging law was blocked by republicans because "muh gubmint overreach"? -
-
@
Psionic Roshambo:
The problem with X party blocked X bill that would have prevented X is that yes the bill probably would have worked great, buuuttt they put XYZDCBG in said bill as an attempt to sneak things in that tend to be completely unrelated to the original bills intent. It sucks because if they would just do a single thing they could probably get something done... -
@
Psionic Roshambo:
But congressman X needs to have government funding for his cousins unicycle business
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Rotflmao 