Sorry for repeated questions. What should be the characteristics of the transistor (mosfet):
Drain-to-Source Voltage; Gate-to-Source Voltage; Continuous Drain Current; other important parameters?
Sorry for repeated questions. What should be the characteristics of the transistor (mosfet):
Drain-to-Source Voltage; Gate-to-Source Voltage; Continuous Drain Current; other important parameters?
CMIIW
The mosfet main function is to Short Circuit (Voltage Glitch) the VCC of the APU to GND at a precise time. So the main characteristics is, it should have a high maximum current tolerance. Read from the datasheet IRH8342 have 19A max current.
I have a problem and hope someone get some help / indications about the problem. I installed in Pico on an OLED - When I turn it on I get a BLUE light - after a (short) wile it turns GREEN but only OFW is starting. Cannot see any obvious problems - assuming might a problem with the CPU flex cable - but not sure.
FW is 2.65 on the Pico. An ideas ?
I have a problem and hope someone get some help / indications about the problem. I installed in Pico on an OLED - When I turn it on I get a BLUE light - after a (short) wile it turns GREEN but only OFW is starting. Cannot see any obvious problems - assuming might a problem with the CPU flex cable - but not sure.
FW is 2.65 on the Pico. An ideas ?
Looking at this picture again, i think that the original drawing is not correct.
I did add the yellow lines but I think I missed the original error of the one who drew this picture.
The D point on Erista should be on the top of the caps.
Please check and see if this is the issue
Correct photo attached
Post automatically merged:
@Danook28 please check the capacitor to the right, it's probably fried.
It's my fault, I shared someone elses picture/drawing of using V2 flex on V1 and somehow i missed the error in that drawing where the second capacitor is connected on the oposite side.
Please remove the capacitor and solder directly to the pads. If it's only the capacitor that is gone the switch should start normaly.
Make a photo if possible just so we can see and maybe help you fix this.
So sorry bro.
Looking at this picture again, i think that the original drawing is not correct.
I did add the yellow lines but I think I missed the original error of the one who drew this picture.
The D point on Erista should be on the top of the caps.
Please check and see if this is the issue
Correct photo attached
Post automatically merged:
@Danook28 please check the capacitor to the right, it's probably fried.
It's my fault, I shared someone elses picture/drawing of using V2 flex on V1 and somehow i missed the error in that drawing where the second capacitor is connected on the oposite side.
Please remove the capacitor and solder directly to the pads. If it's only the capacitor that is gone the switch should start normaly.
Make a photo if possible just so we can see and maybe help you fix this.
So sorry bro.
I think it melted the insulation of the wire because of the wrong diagram (short circuit).
If you have a multimeter, set it on diode mode and place one probe in the shield and test both capacitors on both sides to see if they are shorted (if they are bad you should hear a beep when you touch either side).
If the capacitor is damaged, you can remove it and solder the mosfet directly to pads.
If nothing else was damaged the switch should work
34/32awg should be enough for flex/mosfet
My first mod attempt with picofly failed. Now, my switch lite won't turn on and the cpu is heating up when i plug the battery/charger.
I have removed the mod and is still heating up while off. How screwed i am?
1. first i will check using continuity test between Pico and the flex (from G pin mosfet), it should beep, to make sure the trace is good and the G mosfet connected to the pico.
2. check whether the GND of the nintendo, chassis or whatever, is connected to the S pin of the mosfet. (To make sure the trace in the flex is good)
3. Check the associated caps pin really did connected with the D pin of the mosfet. (To make sure the trace is good).
4. check the resistance of the caps (or the D-S pin of the mosfet), it should not be short circuited. It is to make sure, the soldering is correct, no excessive-hidden-tin which unaccidentally shortcircuited both pin. And make sure the mosfet is in good condition. (Sometimes when electronic part failed its shortcircuited)
5. Check the D-G and S-G it should disconnected, to make sure the mosfet is in a expected condition.
Note: Don't forget to carefully release the battery connector to power off the board.
My first mod attempt with picofly failed. Now, my switch lite won't turn on and the cpu is heating up when i plug the battery/charger.
I have removed the mod and is still heating up while off. How screwed i am?
I think it melted the insulation of the wire because of the wrong diagram (short circuit).
If you have a multimeter, set it on diode mode and place one probe in the shield and test both capacitors on both sides to see if they are shorted (if they are bad you should hear a beep when you touch either side).
If the capacitor is damaged, you can remove it and solder the mosfet directly to pads.
If nothing else was damaged the switch should work
34/32awg should be enough for flex/mosfet
Hello friends, have strange issue with picofly. I dont use cable, and put one mosfet on wires.
When i power on my switch lite picofly blinking correctly (blue then green) but console just starting OFW like its no chip as well.
Hello friends, have strange issue with picofly. I dont use cable, and put one mosfet on wires.
When i power on my switch lite picofly blinking correctly (blue then green) but console just starting OFW like its no chip as well. View attachment 369906View attachment 369907
Usually the color shown is change because of those kapton tape above the led. Blue become Cyan. Try to remove the kapton tape, to make sure the color code, really is blue-green.
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