Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

abal1000x

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Guys, i instal picofly on my oled switch
Got blue led like 2-3 minute - white led - blue again like 2-3 minute - RED
What is that mean?
I think it is not red but yellow.
The glitch (blue) success then write to emmc (white). But the write is failed.

From rehius:
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
Post automatically merged:

I check everything.. :cry:
Switch starts OFW only without aluminum heatsink. ( pico send blue and green led).
View attachment 369912View attachment 369913View attachment 369914View attachment 369915
And second problems microsd fault.. :cry:
View attachment 369916

After install aluminum heatsink, and switch not working.
Please confirm this:
1. Does it shown the picofly logo (to make sure the cfw did success), without any sdcard inserted?

2. Have you ever success on loading hekate payload?
What partition do you used for the microSD? make sure it is the normal MBR-exfat.
 
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Marsowaty

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I think it is not red but yellow.
The glitch (blue) success then write to emmc (white). But the write is failed.

From rehius:
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
Post automatically merged:


Have you ever success on loading hekate payload?
What partition do you used for the microSD? make sure it is the normal MBR-exfat.
Picofly working 2 days, i dump boot0 and boot1 on PC. I create Emunand (CFW and OFW). After days pico not working and start only OFW. Sorry my english is very bad :sad:
 

tSmoker

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Usually the color shown is change because of those kapton tape above the led. Blue become Cyan. Try to remove the kapton tape, to make sure the color code, really is blue-green.
Yep, yes it was definitely cyan and not green. So looks like I need second mosfet? ...its litle harder than one.
By the way, after I twise disasembled it switch now 50/50 chanse to start correct sometime OFW, sometime Picofly.
 

sergiochendry

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I think it is not red but yellow.
The glitch (blue) success then write to emmc (white). But the write is failed.

From rehius:
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
Post automatically merged:


Please confirm this:
1. Does it shown the picofly logo (to make sure the cfw did success), without any sdcard inserted?

2. Have you ever success on loading hekate payload?
What partition do you used for the microSD? make sure it is the normal MBR-exfat.
Yeah i think my dat0 adapter is bad
My adapter line little to right
I think that a problem
 

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abal1000x

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Yep, yes it was definitely cyan and not green. So looks like I need second mosfet? ...its litle harder than one.
By the way, after I twise disasembled it switch now 50/50 chanse to start correct sometime OFW, sometime Picofly.
Maybe the mosfet is broken?

You didn't forget to take off the battery connector while soldering the mosfet / flex right? Usually that broke the mosfet.

I assume you already clean the flux, tin, or whatever material which could affect the signal.
Post automatically merged:

I check everything.. :cry:
Switch starts OFW only without aluminum heatsink. ( pico send blue and green led).
View attachment 369912View attachment 369913View attachment 369914View attachment 369915
And second problems microsd fault.. :cry:
View attachment 369916

After install aluminum heatsink, and switch not working.
Without aluminium heatsink, try to video the pico, we want to make sure the color code. Does it really blue-green, and CFW failed.
 

tSmoker

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Maybe the mosfet is broken?

You didn't forget to take off the battery connector while soldering the mosfet / flex right? Usually that broke the mosfet.
I think this is a bad Ground that I took on a square point on the processor. It fell off as soon as I touched it when I peeled off the tape. Can I use the CPU frame for the ground as in the photo? I can't solder well to this square point and I'm afraid to heat this place very much.
photo_2023-05-08_15-07-25.jpg
 

Danook28

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Is it like this?
It is beep like this. I have unpatched v1 nintendo switch i cheak with multimater capacitor same this pic 2 capacitor beep from both side. And it is working perfectly.
 

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abal1000x

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I think this is a bad Ground that I took on a square point on the processor. It fell off as soon as I touched it when I peeled off the tape. Can I use the CPU frame for the ground as in the photo? I can't solder well to this square point and I'm afraid to heat this place very much.View attachment 369924
You could its the same ground.
 

QuiTim

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It is beep like this. I have unpatched v1 nintendo switch i cheak with multimater capacitor same this pic 2 capacitor beep from both side. And it is working perfectly.
Capacitors should not beep from both sides.
Edit: maybe if the test current is high enough to charge the capacitor......i dont know
 
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Danook28

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But my working
Capacitors should not beep from both sides.
switch is beeb capacitor from both side... That is so weird brother... No comment switch really strange. 👀 😂 ✌️
I remove thermal paste with tooth prush it is no beep now from top side thank you.
 
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sergiochendry

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I think it is not red but yellow.
The glitch (blue) success then write to emmc (white). But the write is failed.

From rehius:
YELLOW = eMMC write failure, check D0 / unsupported eMMC
Post automatically merged:


Please confirm this:
1. Does it shown the picofly logo (to make sure the cfw did success), without any sdcard inserted?

2. Have you ever success on loading hekate payload?
What partition do you used for the microSD? make sure it is the normal MBR-exfat.
Thx broo
Done
Dat0 adapter need little cut to fit inside emmc
 

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QuiTim

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But my working

switch is beeb capacitor from both side... That is so weird brother... No comment switch really strange. 👀 😂 ✌️
I remove thermal paste with tooth prush it is no beep now from top side thank you.
That is weird, thermal paste should not be conductive. What kind are you using?
 

Danook28

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That is weird, thermal paste should not be conductive. What kind are you using?
Thermal paste is gd900. I remove from the side that i read multimater the beep gone. I read again it is beep again. So weird bro.. And switch same to be tearn on i press power secreen sleep mod and lite that for show but no pic no sound..i think some thing fulty on cpu.
 

abal1000x

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Thermal paste is gd900. I remove from the side that i read multimater the beep gone. I read again it is beep again. So weird bro.. And switch same to be tearn on i press power secreen sleep mod and lite that for show but no pic no sound..i think some thing fulty on cpu.
Its not weird. Capacitor indeed flows current in the beginning (Short Circuit). Capacitor stored the charge. After the storage is 'full', then the flows of current stopped (Open Circuit). Usually you could hear the beep in the beginning (for a bad multimeter), then the beep will stopped.

I have even experience using cheap multimeter when the beep is not even stopping, i just laugh on it.

But the ohm reading is quite correct. You could try to read the resistance, there should be some resistance >5ohm.
 

QuiTim

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Thermal paste is gd900. I remove from the side that i read multimater the beep gone. I read again it is beep again. So weird bro.. And switch same to be tearn on i press power secreen sleep mod and lite that for show but no pic no sound..i think some thing fulty on cpu.
The paste is OK.
As abal1000x explaind it quite well, you can get a short beep in the begining when you tough the probe.
Is it a short beep or long? If you keep the multimeter on does it continue beeping?
 

Danook28

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The paste is OK.
As abal1000x explaind it quite well, you can get a short beep in the begining when you tough the probe.
Is it a short beep or long? If you keep the multimeter on does it continue beeping?
Yes it keep beeping some capacitor yes some capacitor no... In same side that i add ready pic here.
 

SeriousC

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OLED RP2040 install, First time i have had an issue but also the first oled install. I have done dual mosfet. When battery is plugged in i get blue LED then goes off. And then when i then click power button no LED shows and OFW boots. I have permanent DAT0 installed soldered under emmc. what have a missed?
 

abal1000x

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OLED RP2040 install, First time i have had an issue but also the first oled install. I have done dual mosfet. When battery is plugged in i get blue LED then goes off. And then when i then click power button no LED shows and OFW boots. I have permanent DAT0 installed soldered under emmc. what have a missed?
Blue or Cyan?
The blue is like 🔵, while cyan is like 👗

Much better if you video on it, so we could understand.

I think its Cyan, means the mosfets problem.
 

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