Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

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I don't understand your answer. He is talking resistance values and you are talking size & capacitance???

From what I understand from what Mr Skinner is saying, the resistor values are very wrong and he won't be able to do the mod as a result.
You're correct, major derp. I meant resistance
 
Sorry for repeated questions. What should be the characteristics of the transistor (mosfet):
Drain-to-Source Voltage; Gate-to-Source Voltage; Continuous Drain Current; other important parameters?
 
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I have a problem and hope someone get some help / indications about the problem. I installed in Pico on an OLED - When I turn it on I get a BLUE light - after a (short) wile it turns GREEN but only OFW is starting. Cannot see any obvious problems - assuming might a problem with the CPU flex cable - but not sure.
FW is 2.65 on the Pico. An ideas ?
 

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The 2 legs to the cpu shell not soldring put touch it i think...
Looking at this picture again, i think that the original drawing is not correct.
I did add the yellow lines but I think I missed the original error of the one who drew this picture.
The D point on Erista should be on the top of the caps.
Please check and see if this is the issue
Correct photo attached
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@Danook28 please check the capacitor to the right, it's probably fried.
It's my fault, I shared someone elses picture/drawing of using V2 flex on V1 and somehow i missed the error in that drawing where the second capacitor is connected on the oposite side.
Please remove the capacitor and solder directly to the pads. If it's only the capacitor that is gone the switch should start normaly.
Make a photo if possible just so we can see and maybe help you fix this.
So sorry bro.
 

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Last edited by QuiTim,
Looking at this picture again, i think that the original drawing is not correct.
I did add the yellow lines but I think I missed the original error of the one who drew this picture.
The D point on Erista should be on the top of the caps.
Please check and see if this is the issue
Correct photo attached
Post automatically merged:

@Danook28 please check the capacitor to the right, it's probably fried.
It's my fault, I shared someone elses picture/drawing of using V2 flex on V1 and somehow i missed the error in that drawing where the second capacitor is connected on the oposite side.
Please remove the capacitor and solder directly to the pads. If it's only the capacitor that is gone the switch should start normaly.
Make a photo if possible just so we can see and maybe help you fix this.
So sorry bro.
My switch display only lines same old tv bro. That digram capacitor kill my switch i think.
Post automatically merged:

How is size magnet wier awg 40 must use and 30 kynar wire must size use?????
I have mosfet also buy from aliexpress.
 

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Last edited by Danook28,
My switch display only lines same old tv bro. That digram capacitor kill my switch i think.
Post automatically merged:

How is size magnet wier awg 40 must use and 30 kynar wire must size use?????
I think it melted the insulation of the wire because of the wrong diagram (short circuit).
If you have a multimeter, set it on diode mode and place one probe in the shield and test both capacitors on both sides to see if they are shorted (if they are bad you should hear a beep when you touch either side).
If the capacitor is damaged, you can remove it and solder the mosfet directly to pads.
If nothing else was damaged the switch should work
34/32awg should be enough for flex/mosfet
 
Last edited by QuiTim,
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My first mod attempt with picofly failed. Now, my switch lite won't turn on and the cpu is heating up when i plug the battery/charger.
I have removed the mod and is still heating up while off. How screwed i am?
 
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My first mod attempt with picofly failed. Now, my switch lite won't turn on and the cpu is heating up when i plug the battery/charger.
I have removed the mod and is still heating up while off. How screwed i am?
Most likely you have a short somewhere. Make some pictures of all solder points, maybe it's something visible
 
I think it melted the insulation of the wire because of the wrong diagram (short circuit).
If you have a multimeter, set it on diode mode and place one probe in the shield and test both capacitors on both sides to see if they are shorted (if they are bad you should hear a beep when you touch either side).
If the capacitor is damaged, you can remove it and solder the mosfet directly to pads.
If nothing else was damaged the switch should work
34/32awg should be enough for flex/mosfet
 

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Hello friends, have strange issue with picofly. I dont use cable, and put one mosfet on wires.
When i power on my switch lite picofly blinking correctly (blue then green) but console just starting OFW like its no chip as well.
photo_2023-05-08_13-37-20.jpg
photo_2023-05-08_13-37-09.jpg
 
I check everything.. :cry:
Switch starts OFW only without aluminum heatsink. ( pico send blue and green led).
345318043_971026840787108_9183184615429079459_n.jpg
345070875_577694750857733_8280810447767619328_n.jpg
345057616_9156258544448807_4180293219196401475_n.jpg
345248047_192013780429905_6519346146766110122_n.jpg

And second problems microsd fault.. :cry:
345115272_618104083533083_294229363869836835_n.jpg


After install aluminum heatsink, and switch not working.
 
Guys, i instal picofly on my oled switch
Got blue led like 2-3 minute - white led - blue again like 2-3 minute - RED
What is that mean?
 

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