Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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binkinator

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thanks for the help. im just confused on where the fusee.bin comes from that suppose to go on root of sd card. im on 15.0.1 ofw with emunand running newest hekate and atmosphere.
The fusee.bin comes from Atmosphere. Go to the main GitHub and look under releases. It’s right next to the main atmosphere.x.x.x.zip file.

I wouldn’t use a year old bootloader…

That said, I use ArgonNX for this since, it never needs to be changed.

https://github.com/Storm21CH/ArgonNX-SE

🤷🏿‍♀️
 
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idSkeetOnU

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I don't know what argon nx is. is it an alternative to atmosphere or hekate? isnt hekate/atmosphere updated regularly? i think i used nh switch guide to hack my switch. i dont think atmosphere uses fusee-primary. it uses package3. my switch is set in hekate to autoboot atmosphere.
 
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binkinator

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I don't know what argon nx is. is it an alternative to atmosphere or hekate? isnt hekate/atmosphere updated regularly? sorry, i think i used nh switch guide to hack my switch
Just use fusee.bin to get everything up and running for now.

You can look into alternatives once you’re up 100% and have time to casually read through everything.
 
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ok. thanks for the help. do u use the newest 9.2.1 or a different version?
Yes, latest is best

(I use an older one, for reasons, but that’s something you can tweak after you have a working baseline following the happy path.)
 
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ok so i flashed the part 1 trinket uf2 file and the window closes and reopens and now its called fusee. i flash part 2 trinket uf2 and it asks to overwrite file. is that was is suppose to happen? also which settings uf2 file should i use if i only want dual boot and red splash?
 

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ok so i flashed the part 1 trinket uf2 file and the window closes and reopens and now its called fusee. i flash part 2 trinket uf2 and it asks to overwrite file. is that was is suppose to happen? also which settings uf2 file should i use if i only want dual boot and red splash
correct. that's exactly what you want. it closes and then reopens and you then need to replace the uf2 file with part 2. At this point just get it running and then move on to playing with the options you want. You can replace part 2 as many times as you want now that part 1 is in place. Once you get it running we can move on to specific customizations.
 

idSkeetOnU

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ive opened my switch and inspected the vol+ strap and i dont want to connect that, as i only want dual boot anyways. can i still use this fusee trinket mod?
 

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ive opened my switch and inspected the vol+ strap and i dont want to connect that, as i only want dual boot anyways. can i still use this fusee trinket mod?
Sure can.

That said, the Vol(+) strap is really useful. You might want to consider removing the board and tapping into the MUCH easier to solder alt points on the back of the PCB. Super easy and takes 5 mins to pop the board.
 
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Sure can.

That said, the Vol(+) strap is really useful. You might want to consider removing the board and tapping into the MUCH easier to solder alt points on the back of the PCB. Super easy and takes 5 mins to pop the board.
if i were to remove the board can i only tap into the vol+ strap or do all my straps need to be connect on back also. sorry for the dumb question.
 

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if i were to remove the board can i only tap into the vol+ strap or do all my straps need to be connect on back also. sorry for the dumb question.
You can choose to use just the one alt point if you'd like. The ONLY ones that I feel MUST be on the front are the D+ and D- because you want those guys to be as SHORT as possible (or you will have weird USB issues haunting you.) Everything else is MUCH easier on the back but you can use either location...whatever is easiest for you.
 

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You can choose to use just the one alt point if you'd like. The ONLY ones that I feel MUST be on the front are the D+ and D- because you want those guys to be as SHORT as possible (or you will have weird USB issues haunting you.) Everything else is MUCH easier on the back but you can use either location...whatever is easiest for you.
one last question. would u recommend the 3v pad near joycon pads on front or the 3.3v pad on back for power? i assume the .3v difference doesnt matter
Post automatically merged:

from the looks of the alternate pads on back, i would probably go joycon, usb disconnect, 3.3v and vol+ on back and usb d+d- and ground on front. do i need to connect the vol down pad?
 

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one last question. would u recommend the 3v pad near joycon pads on front or the 3.3v pad on back for power? i assume the .3v difference doesnt matter
Post automatically merged:

from the looks of the alternate pads on back, i would probably go joycon, usb disconnect, 3.3v and vol+ on back and usb d+d- and ground on front. do i need to connect the vol down pad?
That’s exactly the ones I used! The back pads are huge in comparison. You can get 3.3v power from any of the recommended pads. It doesn’t matter. I don’t like the option of getting it from the underside of the eMMC. The back pad was perfect and easy. No need for Vol(-) wire. There are only 7 wires needed for the full set.
 

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That’s exactly the ones I used! The back pads are huge in comparison. You can get 3.3v power from any of the recommended pads. It doesn’t matter. I don’t like the option of getting it from the underside of the eMMC. The back pad was perfect and easy. No need for Vol(-) wire. There are only 7 wires needed for the full set.
do u happen to have any pictures of how u routed wiring or after pics
 

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do u happen to have any pictures of how u routed wiring or after pics

@randy_w ’s install looks better than mine:

https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...de-files-support.508068/page-187#post-9857601

Just imagine that mine looks just like that but with a little bit of rage and frustration around the edges.

My D+ and D- are a bit shorter and I routed my wires up to the inside of where the heat pipe and the fan meet. There is a little gap between the PCB and the mid-frame right where they cross.

There’s not right way except the way that suits you.
 

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Question,

Trinket installed, CFW works, all works.

- But one greed light in right down corner keep buring solid green when the switch is on.
When the siwtch is off, the green light is off.

What is the issue here?

20221217_022859 (1).jpg
 

Hayato213

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Question,

Trinket installed, CFW works, all works.

- But one greed light in right down corner keep buring solid green when the switch is on.
When the siwtch is off, the green light is off.

What is the issue here?

View attachment 343164

That is led light for the trinket m0, some people remove it, some don't. I have the led on mine too
 

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binkinator

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Question,

Trinket installed, CFW works, all works.

- But one greed light in right down corner keep buring solid green when the switch is on.
When the siwtch is off, the green light is off.

What is the issue here?

View attachment 343164

I'm pretty sure you were supposed to solder that guy off in step one, my friend.

e: I lied. it was step 2!!!!

1671243177733.png
 

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