Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[binkinator]

done.

only issue is that when i press the power button the backlight turns on flashed on and off once and then that's it the screen stays black... when i press power the back led flashed green shortly

Sounds like you get to play a rousing game of hunt the wumpus! Ungh

 

[lynyx]

Sounds like you get to play a rousing game of hunt the wumpus! Ungh

sooo what do i do more specifically?

 

[lynyx]

oh weird
it seems that the switch has booted but i dont have any image on the screen ;-;
there is sound; docking works; it boots straight to emummc

the very bent connector bellow the gamecard slot is the screen ribbon?

 

[binkinator]

sooo what do i do more specifically?

oh weird
it seems that the switch has booted but i dont have any image on the screen ;-;
there is sound; docking works; it boots straight to emummc

the very bent connector bellow the gamecard slot is the screen ribbon?

You will need to get a good magnifying glass and go over each area where you touched something, looking for components you might have knocked off, point that might be bridged with solder splatter, cables that were bumped loose. Make sure the insulation under your trinket is solid. See if things boot after you remove things…start with + power which should put you back where you were before anything was touched. Then maybe lift the chip up and try to start the switch with it isolated up in the air. Post some detailed pictures of each solder point.

 

[lynyx]

You will need to get a good magnifying glass and go over each area where you touched something, looking for components you might have knocked off, point that might be bridged with solder splatter, cables that were bumped loose. Make sure the insulation under your trinket is solid. See if things boot after you remove things…start with + power which should put you back where you were before anything was touched. Then maybe lift the chip up and try to start the switch with it isolated up in the air. Post some detailed pictures of each solder point.

found the issue i think. bent pins in the screen ribbon connector im trying to bend them back but it's hard

 

[impeeza]

found the issue i think. bent pins in the screen ribbon connector im trying to bend them back but it's hard

yeah that rascal connector is a little demon.

 

[lynyx]

yeah I'll come back when i have a working screen.

also another issue would be that when booted and in uf2 mode, the drive doesn't show up on pc :/

 

[lynyx]

yeah it's broken smfh
it's gonna take a really long time for one to come from china. i'll see what i'll do..

 

[lynyx]

yeah it's broken smfh
it's gonna take a really long time for one to come from china. i'll see what i can do..

 

[binkinator]

yeah it's broken smfh
it's gonna take a really long time for one to come from china. i'll see what i'll do..

I just melted a 30 pin FPC this morning. Literally a $3 part. Gotta wait until July to get it. I know it sucks right now but it’s not the end of the world. You’ll be back on top soon.

 

[lynyx]

i dont know why the uf2 drive won't show up on my pc

 

[binkinator]

i dont know why the uf2 drive won't show up on my pc

Let’s level set. Please walk us through step by step where you’re at, what you are doing, and what your expected outcome is…

 

[lynyx]

well right now the switch is in shambles. I'll update properly when I have it back up and running

 

[binkinator]

well right now the switch is in shambles. I'll update properly when I have it back up and running

All good to vent a little. As long as you’ve not released any smoke it‘s all fixable. Collect your thoughts and we’ll dig in whenever you’re ready.

 

[lynyx]

I took the switch to a repair shop (they do laptops and game consoles and stuff). they managed to replace the lcd connector, but now there is another issue. when the lcd is connected the console doesn't power on, it's like it's bricked. when the lcd is disconnected, the console powers on and outputs video to the dock. I see that I'm not the only one who's ever experienced this (ifixit forum). I really don't know what to do, since this is not my switch and the guy who asked me to fit this chip on his console is now threatening me...

 

[binkinator]

I took the switch to a repair shop (they do laptops and game consoles and stuff). they managed to replace the lcd connector, but now there is another issue. when the lcd is connected the console doesn't power on, it's like it's bricked. when the lcd is disconnected, the console powers on and outputs video to the dock. I see that I'm not the only one who's ever experienced this (ifixit forum). I really don't know what to do, since this is not my switch and the guy who asked me to fit this chip on his console is now threatening me...

We’ll that’s not very nice at all. Let’s try the first two steps of a manual reset…we’re not going to actual do anything…just get into maintenance mode and then reboot.

here’s the quick how to: https://en-americas-support.nintend...to-update-nintendo-switch-in-maintenance-mode

After it boots up don’t do anything, just hold the power button for 15 seconds to turn it off and then tap power normally to turn it back on again.

 

[lynyx]

okay I'll soon go to the repair shop to see if any caps are shorted. any tips on what else I should check? I'll also do what you told me when I get there.

We’ll that’s not very nice at all. Let’s try the first two steps of a manual reset…we’re not going to actual do anything…just get into maintenance mode and then reboot.

here’s the quick how to: https://en-americas-support.nintend...to-update-nintendo-switch-in-maintenance-mode

After it boots up don’t do anything, just hold the power button for 15 seconds to turn it off and then tap power normally to turn it back on again.

 

[binkinator]

okay I'll soon go to the repair shop to see if any caps are shorted. any tips on what else I should check? I'll also do what you told me when I get there.

It’s the standard things. Go over everywhere you touched looking for irregularities. Solder bridges, knocked off components, anything melted or moved. The trinket mod itself doesn’t muck with any of the screen stuff so it’s something nearby that got changed somehow.

 

[randy_w]

Just did another RCMx86 install. Also matty just updated Fusee Suite to version 9.2.1, been using and playing with it for several hours, bug free so far. Massive thanks to @mattytrog.

 

[binkinator]

Just did another RCMx86 install. Also matty just updated Fusee Suite to version 9.2.1, been using and playing with it for several hours, bug free so far. Massive thanks to @mattytrog.

View attachment 314498

Ohhhh. Very nice. Any new features vs V7?

e: with the transparent back the white chip looks somehow crisper than a M0 would with it’s USB lopped off.