Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[steve_fox]

Check your hekate_ipl.txt

I have found the Config file, do i need to change a Value in the CFW Sysnand section or just delete that whole part of it to remove the option from Hekate?

Edit: i tried deleting all lines about CFW Sysnand and that did it

 

[Ghwerti]

Hey guys,
I tried installing a trinket today but I get no boot. The switch just does a buzzing sound. However if I dont power the trinket (by either desoldering GND or 3.3) the switch boots again. I also tried alt points for GND and 3.3 but this still happens. Can someone point me to a direction as of why this happens ?

 

[hippy dave]

Hey guys,
I tried installing a trinket today but I get no boot. The switch just does a buzzing sound. However if I dont power the trinket (by either desoldering GND or 3.3) the switch boots again. I also tried alt points for GND and 3.3 but this still happens. Can someone point me to a direction as of why this happens ?

Is your charger plugged in? You can't have anything connected to the USB port when you power on, otherwise the payload won't push and you'll just sit in RCM.
If it's not that, then it would seem like the payload isn't being pushed for some other reason, maybe the USB lines from the trinket?

 

[Ghwerti]

Is your charger plugged in? You can't have anything connected to the USB port when you power on, otherwise the payload won't push and you'll just sit in RCM.
If it's not that, then it would seem like the payload isn't being pushed for some other reason, maybe the USB lines from the trinket?

Charger isnt connected. For debugging I also disconnected every other cable to the trinket. Only GND and 3.3V are connected and this stops the switch from booting. The voltage drops to around 0.03V when the trinket is connected.

This is my second install with this switch (long story short I am trying to put in another trinket right now)
When I first installed the trinket the same problem occured. But after resoldering everything it worked.
But now with my new trinket even the alt points didnt help. But because this problem reocurred i doubt that my trinket is defective

Edit: When the trinket is disconnected I get 3.3V
Edit2: I tried powering the trinket with a ftdi adapter and the voltage also collapses. So it is most likely the trinket
Edit3: It was indeed the trinket. I think a little bit of wire at the back shorted the connection. Resoldered the connections and now everything works

 

[hippy dave]

Charger isnt connected. For debugging I also disconnected every other cable to the trinket. Only GND and 3.3V are connected and this stops the switch from booting. The voltage drops to around 0.03V when the trinket is connected.

This is my second install with this switch (long story short I am trying to put in another trinket right now)
When I first installed the trinket the same problem occured. But after resoldering everything it worked.
But now with my new trinket even the alt points didnt help. But because this problem reocurred i doubt that my trinket is defective

Oh, if the straps aren't connected and you're definitely not in RCM, that's a whole other problem. Can't help you there sorry, I'm not a hardware guy. Hopefully someone can.

 

[iTech_Console]

thanks for the tutorial

 

[lynyx]

hi! so i want to install a trinket m0 on my switch. i want to have dual-boot, cfw emunand and ofw sysnand. the installation part is very clear to me, but the flashing part left me confused. so idk how to flash the trinket. from what i understand i need a flasher, but i also saw a video and a few comments where people just dragged and dropped the uf2 file on the trinket drive. so what should I do to have this dual-boot configuration? or another alternative that i'd like is to boot directly into hekate and then select ofw or cfw from hekate. thanks!

 

[Hayato213]

hi! so i want to install a trinket m0 on my switch. i want to have dual-boot, cfw emunand and ofw sysnand. the installation part is very clear to me, but the flashing part left me confused. so idk how to flash the trinket. from what i understand i need a flasher, but i also saw a video and a few comments where people just dragged and dropped the uf2 file on the trinket drive. so what should I do to have this dual-boot configuration? or another alternative that i'd like is to boot directly into hekate and then select ofw or cfw from hekate. thanks!

You need to do the 7 wires one if you want dualboot, as for the uf2 files goes, you just need to drop part 1 then part 2.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket...software-new-fusee_suite-uf2-packages.553998/

Reference in the thread above.

 

[lynyx]

You need to do the 7 wires one if you want dualboot, as for the uf2 files goes, you just need to drop part 1 then part 2.

if I want to boot directly into hekate what should I do? I'll connect all the wires, it's not an issue.

 

[Hayato213]

if I want to boot directly into hekate what should I do? I'll connect all the wires, it's not an issue.

FUSEE_UF2 PART 2 looks for payload.bin on your sd card, so if you put a renamed hekate.bin on your sd it boot that.

 

[binkinator]

hi! so i want to install a trinket m0 on my switch. i want to have dual-boot, cfw emunand and ofw sysnand. the installation part is very clear to me, but the flashing part left me confused. so idk how to flash the trinket. from what i understand i need a flasher, but i also saw a video and a few comments where people just dragged and dropped the uf2 file on the trinket drive. so what should I do to have this dual-boot configuration? or another alternative that i'd like is to boot directly into hekate and then select ofw or cfw from hekate. thanks!

Installing the v6 software is straightforward. If you do it before you remove the USB connector there’s nothing additional you need. Even if you’ve removed the connector already it’s only a little bit trickier: you’ll simply need to plug your USB cable into your Trinket enabled Switch to connect the internal Trinket to your PC.

Assuming you are reading this before having done anything, just directly plug your Trinket into your PC with an appropriate cable. Reset it (tap reset twice) and it will show up as a new drive. You’ll drop the first UF2 file onto it and it will think for a bit, reset, and then pop back up as a drive again. Think of the first file as a container for the next step. It tells the Trinket how to behave. Now drop the second file onto the drive. This will be the payload that tells the switch how to behave. I personally like v6 of the software but they are all similar with varying features turned on/off. There will be no need to modify the Trinket in the future…it is future proof and will load up whatever payload you rename to be your target. That said, since you will be connecting the Trinket to the USB-C port you can reset the trinket while it‘s inside your Switch and execute the same process even after you’ve removed the connector.

 

[lynyx]

FUSEE_UF2 PART 2 looks for payload.bin on your sd card, so if you put a renamed hekate.bin on your sd it boot that.

ok great thanks! if I need more support I'll post here

 

[lynyx]

hi! so i dont know what to choose between Part_2_LONG_PRESS_FLASH_SECOND and Part_2_MULTIPLE_PRESS_FLASH_SECOND on the github. also for the settings.uf2 idk what to choose. i just want to boot into hekate when i turn on the console

 

[Hayato213]

hi! so i dont know what to choose between Part_2_LONG_PRESS_FLASH_SECOND and Part_2_MULTIPLE_PRESS_FLASH_SECOND on the github. also for the settings.uf2 idk what to choose. i just want to boot into hekate when i turn on the console

https://github.com/mattytrog/FUSEE_SUITE

from Mattytrog github

"
Drag and drop chosen part 2 to FUSEE UF2 drive. Flashing complete.

I will upload 2 identical versions. One with the long-press settings approach, one with multiple press approach. These are identical files with just one option "preset" to enable long or multiple-press. You can change this option in the menu or with your VOL+ button. This is for convenience only. The files are exactly identical. You can also change your settings with a SETTINGS.UF2 file.

Long-press - at ANY POINT the console is powered on, you can HOLD VOL+ and and LED will flash. Count these flashes for a setting. The settings are: Flash 1 - Dual-boot / Chip-based RCM toggle or FailsafeRCM (by default, chip RCM is enabled and console will enter RCM every boot if straps are connected) Flash 2 - Bootlogo colour toggle - "Stock" black or "Switch" red Flash 3 - RGB LED / Dotstar / Neopixel brightness (if fitted to correct pins, stock Adafruit devices are) Flash 4 - Long-press / Multiple-press settings toggle Flash 5 - Reset all chip options back to defaults(AutoRCM - ChipRCM actually enabled, black / white "stock" bootscreen) Flash 6 - UF2 Bootloader access. Activate this when in the Fusee_UF2 program, connect to PC and launch something (OFW / CFW?) and the FUSEE (was SWITCHBOOT) will pop right open. People without LED can still access this by holding VOL+ for 20 seconds

Multiple-press - This mode is only active for 30 seconds from a cold-boot. So if you want to set multiple options, you might need to reboot to reset the countdown. The countdown is displayed on the screen. Why have a countdown? So it cannot be accidentally activated. Kids and grownups will multiple-press VOL+ to increase volume in normal usage. This could cause settings to get changed. There is a "plus" side to this mode. You can set the options in the Fusee menu. Look at the "Chip Setting Assistant". This makes it possible to use a chip completely "blind" and "naked" - IE without LED or reset switch."

 

[lynyx]

so i flashed it with all the things. fusee part 1, then led turned purple, i flashed fusee part 2 (i clicked on replace file cuz they had the same name), then i got scared cuz the only led that was on the green power one. then i clicked the reset button twice and the red one lit up (next to the green one), the FUSEE drive popped up. i flashed a settings.uf2 file and then it closed. again only the green power led was on, but this time no matter how many times or how i press the reset button, nothing happens.... is this normal behaviour?

 

[Hayato213]

so i flashed it with all the things. fusee part 1, then led turned purple, i flashed fusee part 2 (i clicked on replace file cuz they had the same name), then i got scared cuz the only led that was on the green power one. then i clicked the reset button twice and the red one lit up (next to the green one), the FUSEE drive popped up. i flashed a settings.uf2 file and then it closed. again only the green power led was on, but this time no matter how many times or how i press the reset button, nothing happens.... is this normal behaviour?

What chip you are using, can you show your soldering work?

 

[lynyx]

trinket m0 and i just flashed the chip. i haven't installed it. i want to make sure i did everything right before soldering the chip to the console

 

[lynyx]

is my trinket deepfried?

 

[lynyx]

do any of you guys have discord or something? i think it would be easier to talk there

 

[binkinator]

is my trinket deepfried?

It’s not likely fried. Keep the voltages low and don’t short circuit anything and these things are virtually indestructible. Just power it back up and slowly double click reset. Probably best to move past the hypothetical and on to the practical.