Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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taxco

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I'm pretty sure you were supposed to solder that guy off in step one, my friend.

e: I lied. it was step 2!!!!

View attachment 343168
Aaah, thx. Missed that.
You think it will drain more battery if its left on, or some issue?. If not i will leave it be.
Post automatically merged:

Is it normal for the green light to stay on while the switch is on.
Thx
 

binkinator

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Aaah, thx. Missed that.
You think it will drain more battery if its left on, or some issue?. If not i will leave it be.
A little, but not a lot, really. If you keep it on a charger all the time like I do it’s not of any concern.

It could cause some confusion when trying to watch the number of blue/green/red flashes through the grill but the number of times you actually need to do that are super low. Frankly I forget I even have a trinket installed half the time anyway.

All that said, it might grind in your OCD. If so, it’s pretty darn easy to knock those two guys off with a soldering iron even while it’s all installed. Just pull the battery connector and then heat the ends with a bog standard soldering iron and they practically slide right off. Slip the battery connector back in and you’re all set.
 

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ok, so i just finished installing the trinket chip and i did the 7 strap install. i have a question, how do i enter the trinket now if i needed to flash new files over? also i notice when i press on back on switch and press the trinket reset button it raises the volume+. is that normal?
 

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ok, so i just finished installing the trinket chip and i did the 7 strap install. i have a question, how do i enter the trinket now if i needed to flash new files over? also i notice when i press on back on switch and press the trinket reset button it raises the volume+. is that normal?
Press reset twice within 2 seconds to go into flashing mode. Volume+ is connected to your reset - so use your common sense for this question.
 
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mrdude

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i kinda assume the vol+ thing just wanted to make sure. as for getting into the trinket it doesnt show up
If it's not showing up, You didn't solder it properly. ALL Atsamd21 go into flashing mode when reset is grounded twice within 2 seconds, The first grounding reboots the chip, when you ground when the chip is booting it goes into bootloader mode for flashing. It's part of the bootloader code that isn't touched when flashed with software - so you didn't press reset twice within the allocated time, or you didn't solder properly or your bootloader code is goosed (which I highly doubt).
 

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If it's not showing up, You didn't solder it properly. ALL Atsamd21 go into flashing mode when reset is grounded twice within 2 seconds, The first grounding reboots the chip, when you ground when the chip is booting it goes into bootloader mode for flashing. It's part of the bootloader code that isn't touched when flashed with software - so you didn't press reset twice within the allocated time, or you didn't solder properly or your bootloader code is goosed (which I highly doubt).
nevermind. i figured it out. had to double press reset while screen is sleeping. then plug in usb cable. now to figure out how uf2 settings work
Post automatically merged:

hello i have another question. in the fusee menu info page is my usb voltage check suppose to show not found yet?
 

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mrdude

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nevermind. i figured it out. had to double press reset while screen is sleeping. then plug in usb cable. now to figure out how uf2 settings work
Post automatically merged:

hello i have another question. in the fusee menu info page is my usb voltage check suppose to show not found yet?
Don't worry about it, USB is 5 volts and if it's going into bootloader mode and it's sending data to your screen via usb, means it's working and injecting code into the switch.
 

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Don't worry about it, USB is 5 volts and if it's going into bootloader mode and it's sending data to your screen via usb, means it's working and injecting code into the switch.
thanks for all the help mrdude i do appreciate it. so that no usb voltage not found normal for all trinket users? also i notice it autoboots cfw and not dual boot so when the system is shutoff and then plugged in it goes into rcm. is this because its running autorcm. i have autorcm turned off in hekate
 

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thanks for all the help mrdude i do appreciate it. so that no usb voltage not found normal for all trinket users? also i notice it autoboots cfw and not dual boot so when the system is shutoff and then plugged in it goes into rcm. is this because its running autorcm. i have autorcm turned off in hekate
If you have autorcm turned off, you must have wired it so the joycon strap is grounded when your press the power button as this is what puts the switch into RCM mode. There's lots of ways to wire a trinket up on mine I press v+ and power at the same time to go into RCM mode, Iguess if just depends what instructions you followed when you installed the trinket.
 

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If you have autorcm turned off, you must have wired it so the joycon strap is grounded when your press the power button as this is what puts the switch into RCM mode. There's lots of ways to wire a trinket up on mine I press v+ and power at the same time to go into RCM mode, Iguess if just depends what instructions you followed when you installed the trinket.
how do i put it in dual boot mode?
 

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A little, but not a lot, really. If you keep it on a charger all the time like I do it’s not of any concern.

It could cause some confusion when trying to watch the number of blue/green/red flashes through the grill but the number of times you actually need to do that are super low. Frankly I forget I even have a trinket installed half the time anyway.

All that said, it might grind in your OCD. If so, it’s pretty darn easy to knock those two guys off with a soldering iron even while it’s all installed. Just pull the battery connector and then heat the ends with a bog standard soldering iron and they practically slide right off. Slip the battery connector back in and you’re all set.
Thanks man, i think i will get them off. Regards.
 
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You’ll feel better about your install when you’re done.

When you flick them off with your iron, make sure you don’t splash the
I have a vol strap, how can i make Auto RCM to auto boot cfw when powerd onwithout holding vol down, i have the latest uf2 and hekate, in hakate i set auto rcm but i get an black screen
 

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I have a vol strap, how can i make Auto RCM to auto boot cfw when powerd onwithout holding vol down, i have the latest uf2 and hekate, in hakate i set auto rcm but i get an black screen
Please post your /bootloader/hekate_ipl.ini file.

Which guide did you follow?

I typically is this one: https://rentry.org/SwitchHackingIsEasy

Make sure your up to date and have the latest Atmosphere, Hekate, fusee.bin in /bootloader/payloads/ and that your Sigpatches are up to date.

Those are all the moving parts…let’s see if we can get them all moving in the right direction.
 

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Please post your /bootloader/hekate_ipl.ini file.

Which guide did you follow?

I typically is this one: https://rentry.org/SwitchHackingIsEasy

Make sure your up to date and have the latest Atmosphere, Hekate, fusee.bin in /bootloader/payloads/ and that your Sigpatches are up to date.

Those are all the moving parts…let’s see if we can get them all moving in the right direction.
I have FUSEE-UF2 9.2,


[config]
autoboot=1
autoboot_list=0
bootwait=0
autohosoff=0
autonogc=1
updater2p=1
backlight=100

[CFW - sysMMC]
fss0=bootloader/payloads/fusee.bin
kip1patch=nosigchk
atmosphere=1
emummc_force_disable=1
icon=bootloader/res/icon_payload.bmp
 
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binkinator

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I have FUSEE-UF2 9.2,


[config]
autoboot=1
autoboot_list=0
bootwait=0
autohosoff=0
autonogc=1
updater2p=1
backlight=100

[CFW - sysMMC]
fss0=bootloader/payloads/fusee.bin
kip1patch=nosigchk
atmosphere=1
emummc_force_disable=1
icon=bootloader/res/icon_payload.bmp

You’re sure you don’t want to run on an Emunand?

Regardless, that fss0 line should read:

payload=bootloader/payloads/fusee.bin
 

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That fss0 line should read:

payload=bootloader/payloads/fusee.bin
atmosphere
You’re sure you don’t want to run on an Emunand?

Regardless, that fss0 line should read:

payload=bootloader/payloads/fusee.bin
1 - I have FUSEE-UF2 9.2 that boot up before hekate.
2 - In hekate i can boot to cfw using .ini the one i have rignt now.

But:
1 - Wheni enable RCM mode in hekate i just get one red light flash on trinket and back screen,
btw can always enter FUSEE-UF2 9.2 using pwr and vol+.

How can i use RCM with FUSEE-UF2 9.2, it auto boots to cfw


* is the a way to replace FUSEE-UF2 9.2 .uf2 file with hekate?
 

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atmosphere
you’re not really responding to what I wrote. I am telling you that you have an error in your helate_ipl.ini file and you respond with one word…
atmosphere
1 - I have FUSEE-UF2 9.2 that boot up before hekate.
Correct. You want FUSEE-UF2 to chain load Hekate.
2 - In hekate i can boot to cfw using .ini the one i have rignt now.
How are you accomplishing this?
But:
1 - Wheni enable RCM mode in hekate i just get one red light flash on trinket and back screen,
You do not want to use AutoRCM. That is the whole point of having a Trinket M0. No more need for jigs, or auto RCM or injectors. Trinket handles all of that if you connect all 7 wires.
btw can always enter FUSEE-UF2 9.2 using pwr and vol+.
Great
How can i use RCM with FUSEE-UF2 9.2, it auto boots to cfw


* is the a way to replace FUSEE-UF2 9.2 .uf2 file with hekate?
You do not want to do this…you want to use an unchanging FUSEE-UF2 to chainload an often updated Hekate.x.x.x.bin.
 

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