Here's A Guide To Installing The Trinket M0 Into The Switch.

Program The Trinket Before You Remove The Usb Port, Saves You Doing It After You Complete The Install.

First Thing To Do Is Remove The Usb Port From The Trinket, If You Have A Hot Air Wand Then Use That To Remove The Port It Will Reduce The Risk Of Damage To The Pads.

Now That The Usb Port Has Been Removed You Want To Solder Wire To The Data Pads, White = Data- And Green Data+ In This Guide.

Now Solder Wire To The Bat Pad = Red, Gnd Pad = Black, Pad 4 = Orange & Pad 3 = Brown In This Guide.

Also Remove The Resistor Next To The Ppower Led Mark Out In Purple In This Guide.

When You Have The Trinket All Prepared, You Can Now Proceed To The Install To The Switch.

Once The Install Is Completely Done Then Clean Up The Points You Have Soldered To Using Isopropyl And Cotton Buds/Q-Tips.

Alternative Point For Pad 4.

Alternative Points For Joycon Rail Pin 10.

If You Decide On Using This Alternative Point Then Use Enamel Coated Jumper Wire 0.10mm.

Remember Take Your Time It's Not A Race lol. Rushing Can Lead To Mistakes.

Tools Required.

Kynar Wire 30 AWG.
Soldering Iron.
Hot Air Wand For Usb Port Removal(Optional)
Isopropyl.
Cotton Bud/Q-Tips.
Flux.
Solder.
Enamel Jumper Wire (Optional)


Thanks And Credit Goes To Xboxexpert For This Solution.

I Think That Covers Everything.

EDIT..

here's another method for the install of the trinket, this method does away with the pad 4, as some may find it tricky to solder to the cap used on the mobo.

the rst pad is used instead and the wire is linked to the power button, Also this has a bonus that you can double press the power button to put the trinket into boot loader mode for uploading a new payload.

of course you don't have to use the rst pad at all, you can't just press power button and volume up button, then press reset button for rcm mode.

this method should be ok for the novices.

install at your own risk.

the pad on the power button to use.

i have one more method to try but I really think this one is not to bad method.

the more methods the better I say, of course to try and make it as easy as possible for pros and novices.

EDIT...
another method for the install of the trinket.

this method is basically same as all other methods, just a different points uses for the bat pad and rst pad.

this install will allow you to have the trinket power off when you fully power off the switch.

double press the reset button on the trinket to get into boot loader mode, this may take a couple of attempts to do.

the payload that you use already will work with this method no need for new ones.

here's the diagram for method 3, you could possibly have this as a 4 wire install, if you install auto rcm mode, but as my sd card module port is buggerd I couldn't test that out.

ok it seems method 3 needs auto rcm installed for it to work without the need to use the rst pad

so for them that don't want to use auto rcm mode then solder a wire from rst pad to the point on the power button, and use pad 3 to the pin 10 on the joycon rail or one of the alt points on mobo.

beware the alt points are small so use at your own risk.

ok anyone with changing issues test these 2 points, you should get 5v on the usb port side, and around 3.2v on the switch side.

if your getting the volts on the switch side that are fluctuating up & down then replace the part with the v on top it's a diode, you want one that fits so the actual size is either 0402 or 0603 in dimension (i'm using 0402/0603 as an example for size purpose only)

around page 16 has more info about this component..

dont come moaning if you damage your console doing this install, i'm not responsible for you opening or taking a soldering iron to your console.
you do this at your own risk any damage is down to yourself.

another thing if your trinket starts to get very hot to the point you can't touch it, then the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic is on it's way out, so you will need to replace the ic or just replace your trinket.

at some point it wont power up after this has happened.
1 = gets very hot.
2 = reset starts to become tempermental .
3 = dead
4 = fix replace the atmel ATSAMD21E18A-U ic

edit

added uf2 drag and drop files for r4 trinket gemma dongles or for a 4 wire internal install.

atmosphere
hekate 4.2
Sxos
rajnx
reinx

 

[M-O-B]

here you go using the volume up button to actually power on the trinket.

 

[YigglyPoof]

@YigglyPoof If we can find a better spot for wire #4 I'd say go for it but right now there's just too many tiny surface mount resistors/capacitors so close there. It looks big in the pictures but seeing it yourself you are just like GD that's a small spot to tag a wire to. I'm comfortable doing it and I don't even want to do it lol.

if it's your first time soldering then I personally wouldn't recommend it, but if you really want this then get some old dead pcb boards with plenty on fine tiny points on and practice soldering, when you got to the stage of not lifting or damaging pads then try the install.

but I'd recommend you find someone near you who could do the install for you.

Sounds good, I’ll hit up tiny solder guy

 

[M-O-B]

another thing I don't have the pad 4 solder to anything, yet it seems to work without it, now weather that's due to being usb or not I no idea, but the only wires solder to the usb is the 2 data wires and a gnd wire.

 

[Okisub]

here you go using the volume up button to actually power on the trinket.

Now I love that idea. How did you wire it?

 

[M-O-B]

Now I love that idea. How did you wire it?

magic fairy dust lol, I'll post the points in a bit just a bit busy at moment.

 

[M-O-B]

Have updated the op with hekate ctcaer 3.0 & SXSO files, as that's all most will use, plus works on both dongle and install method.

 

[noX1609]

Did i understand it right that if i solder the Trinket internally and connect Pin 3 to Pin 10 on the rail then Pin 10 is only connected to GND until the Trinket goes to sleep mode when payload is injected or console not in RCM?

Because don‘t want to connect Pin 10 to ground the whole time just in case nintendo could detect that.

I found this list on page one and if i understand correctly it only connects the pin to gnd after the console is turned on until it goes to sleep (the trinket not the switch):

1. Switch turned on
   
2. Trinket woken up, RCM_STRAP pulled to GND, shows GREEN light for 1 second
   
3. Trinket reboots itself (because I'm lazy), LED turns PURPLE.
   
4. Trinket looks for RCM device, blinks while looking
   
5. RCM found? Injects payload, shows GREEN led for 0.5 second
   
6. RCM not found? shows RED led for 0.5 second
   
7. Trinket goes to sleep and waits for the Switch to turn on again

@M-O-B: Sounds great Could you please make a picture of the board and mark the spot where the cable has to be soldered to and also which cable has to be soldered to? (i mean which of the points of the trinket needs to be soldered to which point on the board so your modification works)

 

[Deleted User]

Alright got my trinket and the workshop is open now I need to catch up to whatever sneaky things @M-O-B has been up to while I was gone

So sounds like we might have a few different wiring options now time to test

 

[M-O-B]

Did i understand it right that if i solder the Trinket internally and connect Pin 3 to Pin 10 on the rail then Pin 10 is only connected to GND until the Trinket goes to sleep mode when payload is injected or console not in RCM?

Because don‘t want to connect Pin 10 to ground the whole time just in case nintendo could detect that.

I found this list on page one and if i understand correctly it only connects the pin to gnd after the console is turned on until it goes to sleep (the trinket not the switch):

1. Switch turned on
   
2. Trinket woken up, RCM_STRAP pulled to GND, shows GREEN light for 1 second
   
3. Trinket reboots itself (because I'm lazy), LED turns PURPLE.
   
4. Trinket looks for RCM device, blinks while looking
   
5. RCM found? Injects payload, shows GREEN led for 0.5 second
   
6. RCM not found? shows RED led for 0.5 second
   
7. Trinket goes to sleep and waits for the Switch to turn on again

@M-O-B: Sounds great Could you please make a picture of the board and mark the spot where the cable has to be soldered to and also which cable has to be soldered to? (i mean which of the points of the trinket needs to be soldered to which point on the board so your modification works)

images are in the op showing what pads on the trinket and the poibts they goto on the switch console.

 

[Deleted User]

images are in the op showing what pads on the trinket and the poibts they goto on the switch console.

Your new Arduino code is giving away the volume + and pin 4 secrets lmao

I'm tempted to mount the trinket in the non-foamed square of the battery, and cut out some of the metal plate there since it's flat and won't interfere with airflow. We could also add a clear lens over the LED area and a flex dot over the reset button/

 

[M-O-B]

Your new Arduino code is giving away the volume + and pin 4 secrets lmao

I'm tempted to mount the trinket in the non-foamed square of the battery, and cut out some of the metal plate there since it's flat and won't interfere with airflow. We could also add a clear lens over the LED area and a flex dot over the reset button/

the ino is for here looking at it has a volume up button line added but not sure exactly what it does as never tried it.

https://github.com/Quantum-cross/sam-fusee-launcher-internal/blob/master/INSTALL.md

i used the original ino while messing around, as for the pad 4 I have not used it on 3 dongles, my new dongle is just the cell bat board with just the bat and gnd pads from the trinket to it, nothing special as for the volume up button the gnd wire from the trinket going to one of the pads on volume up button, not had time to search for the mobo point for it yet, a image of vol plus is in the above link but not sure what they are as not look at it.

this was the actual pad I used on the vol button.

 

[Deleted User]

the ino is for here looking at it has a volume up button line added but not sure exactly what it does as never tried it.

https://github.com/Quantum-cross/sam-fusee-launcher-internal/blob/master/INSTALL.md

i used the original ino while messing around, as for the pad 4 I have not used it on 3 dongles, my new dongle is just the cell bat board with just the bat and gnd pads from the trinket to it, nothing special as for the volume up button the gnd wire from the trinket going to one of the pads on volume up button, not had time to search for the mobo point for it yet, a image of vol plus is in the above link but not sure what they are as not look at it.

this was the actual pad I used on the vol button.View attachment 134564

omg lol I was just about to upload the volume + key ground image too xD

Edit: Ok so in the original code it looks like the volume + was being grounded for us, so you wouldn't need to hold it down. That's where the pin 0 references are from.

Edit#53: I think I'm going to try this layout >
-TX/RX no change
-PIN0 to "vol+ gnd" for key free entry into RCM
-PIN 3V to PIN4 (so original code can stay untouched for compatibility)
-BAT no change
-GND no change
-PIN 3 to ALT 10 point (2nd piece to key free rcm)
-RST pin to "Vol- gnd" (so all you would have to do is double tap vol - to put M0 into update mode)

I'd need to remove the built in reset switch, usb port and green led resistor, but then I could mount it in the battery foam free square area, and route a piece of fibre optic cable up to the top panel so you could see the chip status.
The final part would be to lift the CE pin of the LDO voltage regulator, and connect it to the 1.8v joycon rail power point. If this works, it would only allow the Trinket to be powered on while the switch is on or sleeping, not powered down.

I got the wire all prepped and I'm going to tack it on in to test it out before confirming anything =)

 

[Crazywhitie]

As anyone Tried the Trinket 5v yet?

 

[noX1609]

images are in the op showing what pads on the trinket and the poibts they goto on the switch console.

Ah i didn‘t see the image but now it is displayed. Thanks for that

I think from the trinket it‘s BAT or GND (think you can use both of them (not at the same time of cause )).

The only downside of that solution is that you have to hold VOL+ for the complete time of injecting the payload because otherwise the trinket will lose it‘s power and can‘t finish the inject.

I‘m also thinking about using the VOL+ Button to short Pin 1 with Pin 10 on the rail because if i release the button when it‘s finished injecting the connection of the two points is disconnected and because of that Nintendo can‘t detect if the PIN‘s are shorted and so the ban risk could be a little lower

@M-O-B: Do you think this will work if i solder two lines on the button and connect one to PIN1 and one to PIN10? Or will that damage the console or the Joycon? Because normally if you press the button the left and right pad get‘s connected and the power will "flow" but can't imagine if that would damage anything if the currency from closed switch will be at PIN1 which is normally Ground. This would end in a short circuit, wouldn't it?
Maybe i could include a resistor so i have a consumer in the circuit so it shouldn't build a short circuit any more or do i have a mistake in this thought? (school with electronic training is far to long ago^^)

If it‘s not working i will do it with a reedswitch or the eject button on the right joycon.

But if i read other Threads correctly the trinket M0 cut the connection of PIN 10 and GND before going to sleep, right?
Or does it keep the connection forever?
Because as said before i dont want an permanent connection on PIN 10 in case nintendo COULD be able to detect the connection and use it as a reason to ban consoles (donhave a proof for that because no one knows exactly what Nintendo is able to detect. But we here in germany says "Vorsicht ist besser als Nachsicht". Could be translated to something like "Better be careful instead of having problems afterwards" (i know the translation is terrible but its nearly 4:00 in the Night here in Germany so i'm tired now.

 

[M-O-B]

omg lol I was just about to upload the volume + key ground image too xD

Edit: Ok so in the original code it looks like the volume + was being grounded for us, so you wouldn't need to hold it down. That's where the pin 0 references are from.

Edit#53: I think I'm going to try this layout >
-TX/RX no change
-PIN0 to "vol+ gnd" for key free entry into RCM
-PIN 3V to PIN4 (so original code can stay untouched for compatibility)
-BAT no change
-GND no change
-PIN 3 to ALT 10 point (2nd piece to key free rcm)
-RST pin to "Vol- gnd" (so all you would have to do is double tap vol - to put M0 into update mode)

I'd need to remove the built in reset switch, usb port and green led resistor, but then I could mount it in the battery foam free square area, and route a piece of fibre optic cable up to the top panel so you could see the chip status.
The final part would be to lift the CE pin of the LDO voltage regulator, and connect it to the 1.8v joycon rail power point. If this works, it would only allow the Trinket to be powered on while the switch is on or sleeping, not powered down.

I got the wire all prepped and I'm going to tack it on in to test it out before confirming anything =)

Oh That's What The PAD 0 Is For, Not Sure I'd Use That As I Like The Original Method Power On Only For OFW.

PAD 0 To "Vol+ GND" For Key Free Entry Into RCM
PAD 3V to PAD 4 On Trinket Didn't Work For Me When I Tried It.

The Volume- For The Reset Is A Niffty Idea.

The Trinket In The Bat Area I Did Look At But I Didn't Think It Would Fit Snug Enough, But Then That Was With The Reset Switch Intact, Also The Caps Around The Reset Switch May Need To Be Replaced For 0603 Caps.

Good Luck.

Ah i didn‘t see the image but now it is displayed. Thanks for that

I think from the trinket it‘s BAT or GND (think you can use both of them (not at the same time of cause )).

The only downside of that solution is that you have to hold VOL+ for the complete time of injecting the payload because otherwise the trinket will lose it‘s power and can‘t finish the inject.

I‘m also thinking about using the VOL+ Button to short Pin 1 with Pin 10 on the rail because if i release the button when it‘s finished injecting the connection of the two points is disconnected and because of that Nintendo can‘t detect if the PIN‘s are shorted and so the ban risk could be a little lower

@M-O-B: Do you think this will work if i solder two lines on the button and connect one to PIN1 and one to PIN10? Or will that damage the console or the Joycon? Because normally if you press the button the left and right pad get‘s connected and the power will "flow" but can't imagine if that would damage anything if the currency from closed switch will be at PIN1 which is normally Ground. This would end in a short circuit, wouldn't it?
Maybe i could include a resistor so i have a consumer in the circuit so it shouldn't build a short circuit any more or do i have a mistake in this thought? (school with electronic training is far to long ago^^)

If it‘s not working i will do it with a reedswitch or the eject button on the right joycon.

But if i read other Threads correctly the trinket M0 cut the connection of PIN 10 and GND before going to sleep, right?
Or does it keep the connection forever?
Because as said before i dont want an permanent connection on PIN 10 in case nintendo COULD be able to detect the connection and use it as a reason to ban consoles (donhave a proof for that because no one knows exactly what Nintendo is able to detect. But we here in germany says "Vorsicht ist besser als Nachsicht". Could be translated to something like "Better be careful instead of having problems afterwards" (i know the translation is terrible but its nearly 4:00 in the Night here in Germany so i'm tired now.

using the vol+ button as you have described would only be doing the same thing as any other method for rcm mode. just use the PAD 3 from the trinket going to PIN 10 on the joycon rail your not getting a continuous contact with this method.

or use your normal method to get into rcm mode, PAD 3 is optional.

 

[alimao]

https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/-/32886798643.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.5aa02e0e9txN2d
does it work via usb? possible ? or just soldering

 

[m4xw]

-snip-

May I ask you why did u go with a Trinket?

I am working on getting this ported/re-done on a Photon (that is a ARM Cortex M3), since I don't think a Trinket is sufficient for a real permanent solution.

How much space is there left where you placed your trinket? Is it really tight when closed? Hard to judge by the pictures (precisely 36.58mm x 20.32mm)

 

[M-O-B]

May I ask you why did u go with a Trinket?

I am working on getting this ported/re-done on a Photon (that is a ARM Cortex M3), since I don't think a Trinket is sufficient for a real permanent solution.

How much space is there left where you placed your trinket? Is it really tight when closed? Hard to judge by the pictures (precisely 36.58mm x 20.32mm)

i went with the trinket coz it really is the best solution at the moment, it's sufficient enough for the job it doing, maybe a better code in the future for it, as for when it's closed up back together then it's just the same as before you fit the trinket.. weather you install it direct or use it as a dongle be difficult to find something as compact as the trinket.

 

[m4xw]

i went with the trinket coz it really is the best solution at the moment, it's sufficient enough for the job it doing, maybe a better code in the future for it, as for when it's closed up back together then it's just the same as before you fit the trinket.. weather you install it direct or use it as a dongle be difficult to find something as compact as the trinket.

If you wanna join the fun with a more powerful chip, write me a msg

 

[noX1609]

@m4xw: Sounds interesting which Chip so you meen and what can be done with the „more powerfull chip" that couldn‘t be done with the Trinket M0?

If you don't want to post it here in the thread please write a PN to me