Do you mean flex adapter?Adapter
It hasn't budged. Well soldered and its solder pad (and the wire attached to it) reads proper values after months.
Do you mean flex adapter?Adapter
It hasn't budged. Well soldered and its solder pad (and the wire attached to it) reads proper values after months.
DAT 0 adapters Tend to bend when they warm up some more some lessAdapter
It hasn't budged. Well soldered and its solder pad (and the wire attached to it) reads proper values after months.
Hello, actually, I went to inspect it, and the resistor that was in the dat0 line was 250 ohms. I was using a hwfly ro2040 clone chip, and it has this resistor with an incorrect value, which meant that it didn't enter OFW on the Nintendo Switch, but I replaced it and it worked fine. Thank you very much for your tip, it was really valuable.replace dat0 resistor on rp2040 with 100 ohm
What makes it a bad dat0 adapter?i have just gotten a bad batch of dat0 adapter now. these chinese seller are tricky one. first i bought 15 they shipped me the good one this time i bought 50 and i got this shitty ones. i will rely on reballing waiting for another batch.
What makes it a bad dat0 adapter?
Also, for bonus points, which pin of the emmc does the adapter tap into? I still dont understand how it can go in there without reballing/soldering. Does it just put into the existing soldered point?
using uv mask can help to stay in place. just askThe bad adapters are either not well anchored or have a bad shape on the dat0 connector. The adapter slides under the emmc and is pressed against the dat0 point and then soldered with "anchors" around the emmc to stay in place.
You can run a wire between the traces.Hello!
Today came a Nintendo switch lite with a failed Picofly installation and the buttons don’t work, when I opened i see a disaster, but one thing caught my attention.
This 2 point are no more, so, I think this is the problem.
Anyone know where this 2 points go? The connections that there see just are ground.
Everyone sees it differently. But you should invest in some equipment, especially if you mod for others.using a $10 iron and an iPhone
What values do you read??Adapter
It hasn't budged. Well soldered and its solder pad (and the wire attached to it) reads proper values after months.
Could you share the pictures of the install??Need some help on an install. RP2040-zero, on a V2 switch, using Helder's extension board. Soldered everything up, plugged battery in, and got an initial blue light, followed by two quick yellow lights, which repeats 3 times. Decoding ** tells me 'RST is not connected'. After which it will boot the original firmware. And I've been stuck there for several days.
Things I've tried:
Triple checked my soldering to the RST point. It's solid, not bridged.
Checked continuity between RST point on the motherboard to the RST point on the extension board, and to #26 on the RP2040 itself.
Changed the 38 AWG wire for 30 AWG wire.
Tried a different RP2040, with a different extension board.
Tried 2.73, and 2.75.
Connected to the motherboard RST point, then tried EMMC RST point.
Tested diode values: when trying to boot, I'm getting .300-ish volts (which, from what I can tell, is too low?). Did some more messing around, and discovered that that diode reading, after I unplug the battery, will eventually climb back up to about 1.4 volts.
Even tried hooking up the SDA and SDL points, just for kicks and giggles.
In case it matters, this switch had to have it's charge port replaced. This was done before trying to mod, and it passed all tests after. The unmodded switch was fully functional, and was reinitialized before modding.
This is the 4th one of these I've done in the last couple weeks, all v2's, all setup the same way. The first 3 went fine, so I'm (fairly) confident that this is a board problem, and not user error. I just have no idea how to go about diagnosing what's wrong with the RST point. Ideas? Thanks.
The reset not connected is simply checking the RST voltage.Need some help on an install. RP2040-zero, on a V2 switch, using Helder's extension board. Soldered everything up, plugged battery in, and got an initial blue light, followed by two quick yellow lights, which repeats 3 times. Decoding ** tells me 'RST is not connected'. After which it will boot the original firmware. And I've been stuck there for several days.
Things I've tried:
Triple checked my soldering to the RST point. It's solid, not bridged.
Checked continuity between RST point on the motherboard to the RST point on the extension board, and to #26 on the RP2040 itself.
Changed the 38 AWG wire for 30 AWG wire.
Tried a different RP2040, with a different extension board.
Tried 2.73, and 2.75.
Connected to the motherboard RST point, then tried EMMC RST point.
Tested diode values: when trying to boot, I'm getting .300-ish volts (which, from what I can tell, is too low?). Did some more messing around, and discovered that that diode reading, after I unplug the battery, will eventually climb back up to about 1.4 volts.
Even tried hooking up the SDA and SDL points, just for kicks and giggles.
In case it matters, this switch had to have it's charge port replaced. This was done before trying to mod, and it passed all tests after. The unmodded switch was fully functional, and was reinitialized before modding.
This is the 4th one of these I've done in the last couple weeks, all v2's, all setup the same way. The first 3 went fine, so I'm (fairly) confident that this is a board problem, and not user error. I just have no idea how to go about diagnosing what's wrong with the RST point. Ideas? Thanks.
short with dat1... 100%
I am quite sure thats the source of the instability.Yeah, flex.
Interesting.The bad adapters are either not well anchored or have a bad shape on the dat0 connector. The adapter slides under the emmc and is pressed against the dat0 point and then soldered with "anchors" around the emmc to stay in place.
Interesting.
According to your attached image the dat0 point (in blue) is near the top left, however, the dat0 adapter is slid in from the bottom. How does it connect to the correct point? According to the image not all the emmc pins are needed, does it mean they aren't all soldered which is why the dat0 connection can slide between the chip and the board?
Because we aren't reballing/resoldering my assumption would be the dat0 point sidles up against one of the emmc pins along the outside perimeter and just touches it to make a connection. Is that right?
Got it! Thanks.The top of the picture is the side where the dat0 adapter slides in from. a lot of emmc pins are not used. they are still soldered, just not actually internally connected to anything on either the mainboard or emmc side.
the dat0 adapter simply has a small metal edge at the right spot which makes it press against the dat0 ball, so yes, just touch. not really a permanent solution, but it's the only "easy" way to make a modchip reach that point.
My experience with the flex is, its usually not stable.Got it! Thanks.
Makes sense why we need to make sure it's anchored properly.
My first OLED mod I reballed the emmc but didn't feel comfortable doing it again for other OLEDs. They all worked and are still working. Future mods I'll just make sure it's anchored on all 3 sides properly and call it a day.