Tutorial  Updated

Internal modchip - SAMD21 (Trinket M0, Gemma M0, ItsyBitsy M0 Express) Guide, Files & Support

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Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!



Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...




Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)
  • Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.
  • Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.
See picture:
20181031_110415.jpg


You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.





Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

trinketfinal.jpg

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

rebugfinal.jpg

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

RCMX86-Internal-Final.jpg


==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture


gemma final.jpg

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

itsybitsyfinal.jpg




==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

feather_final.jpg




BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE
SAMD pi connection.png



Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:
Alternatepoints.jpg


Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!
Alternatepoints2.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

alternative3v.jpg




Replacement Parts List

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW


I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.


IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.


A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ
THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.
 

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mooglazer

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What this is, is a virgin chip I bought from RS components. £5 ish for pack of two.

Programmed with OpenOCD from a Pi zero via VNC/SSH

The big square board is just a prototype board.

Might put a hookup guide in OP. Good idea?

Awesome! This sounds like a fun project.

Not a good idea, a great idea!
 
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mattytrog

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Awesome! This sounds like a fun project!

You think?

Just one thing. If anyone is thinking of building an external one, VCC & GND on USB need to be connected to chip / breadboard / veroboard.

VCC coming out of switch is 5v.

Trinkets dont like 5v.

So get a diode on there on the USB VCC! Diode not needed if fitted internally.
 

mooglazer

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So get a diode on there on the USB VCC! Diode not needed if fitted internally.

Gonna give this a go once my parts are in. I'll probably run it off a coin battery initially.

It looks like you're using the LED for the voltage drop, but I don't see a resistor? Also it looks like you're disconnecting GND on the far side when powered via USB/connected to the Switch? (Sorry hard to tell from the image.)

Nice work [emoji4]
 

mattytrog

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Gonna give this a go once my parts are in. I'll probably run it off a coin battery initially.

It looks like you're using the LED for the voltage drop, but I don't see a resistor? Also it looks like you're disconnecting GND on the far side when powered via USB/connected to the Switch? (Sorry hard to tell from the image.)

Nice work [emoji4]

Not enough current to use a resistor on that led. It's best practice to use one ofcourse. 300 ohms ISH. Not really important. Might be just because the pi isn't putting out too much current.

The caps are to stabilise and smooth stuff.

Not disconnecting GND.

Chip is essentially a trinket without dotstar.

No crystal oscillator required in this either.

The loose wire you see is reset.
 
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mooglazer

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The caps are to stabilise and smooth stuff.

Ah, I was going to ask if you had the VDD lines set up with caps like the datasheet recommends, I didn't see them visible in the above photo.

Edit: Ah, they're visible in your first post update. Perfect! Nice graphic btw.

Thanks again, this'll be a fun project! [emoji482]
 
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Just been checking... You don`t need VCC connected to USB after all. The data lines require GND for return. They don`t need "pulling up" or anything.

So, the diode is not required.

A method 1 install needs:

The chip
2 caps (0402 size as it fits the pitch of the QFP)
4 wires. (5, or a button if you want reset)

Can fit on a little fingernail.

I recommend the QFP as it is more accessible.

Clever little chip...

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

Ok... I`ll ask. Is it worth making a new thread and a tut / OpenOCD image to program these virgin SAMDs?

Can do, don`t want to preach to people. I assume that most people know what they are doing so maybe I don`t need to.

Hope everyone has enjoyed and learned something from this thread so far. I know I have!

Cheers.

Double-posted again. Shoot me.
 
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wiiando

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What this is, is a virgin chip I bought from RS components. £5 ish for pack of two.

Programmed with OpenOCD from a Pi zero via VNC/SSH

The big square board is just a prototype board.

Might put a hookup guide in OP. Good idea?

Boardless chip nearly here! Basically, just stick the QFP package to an empty area on the board on top of some kapton, solder a couple of wires off the legs aka PS1 days, done.

Shield goes back on. Nobody is the wiser...

what perfect led placement :D

haha, nevermind I thought you were purposely keeping the chip a secret lol

looked at the OP and realised
 
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mattytrog

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what perfect led placement :D

haha, nevermind I thought you were purposely keeping the chip a secret lol

looked at the OP and realised

That LED is now surplus to requirements. Came in handy though.

Theres bugger-all to keep secret.

I just see Mr Sum-Ting Wong and his best friend Yu Phat Phuk over in China making these things and making money.

You can just make one yourself. Peanuts really.
 

wiiando

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That LED is now surplus to requirements. Came in handy though.

Theres bugger-all to keep secret.

I just see Mr Sum-Ting Wong and his best friend Yu Phat Phuk over in China making these things and making money.

You can just make one yourself. Peanuts really.

The led was covering the chip in the picture, I thought you'd purposely done it lol
 

mattytrog

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The led was covering the chip in the picture, I thought you'd purposely done it lol
No mate. Just a common or garden Atmel.

It does look like I hid it though doesn't it lol! I see what you mean now. Nah hiding things isn't my style.

Don't bother me if folk know everything or copy from someone who copied from me. Not me who gets the grief! Shit rolls downhill, never up ;)
 
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mattytrog

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Another problem with another console, I use AWG30, can it come from there? It works perfectly and after some restart the console is frozen, forced to desolder the chip.

Hello.
You are going to have to elaborate a bit.

What method are you using? Old/New?
"Some restart"... Thats rather vague. When is it freezing? Is it staying in RCM? Is it on the Nintendo logo?
"I use AWG30, can it come from there?"... Can what come from there?
Not enough to go on to try and help you.

Usual start. Can you post a good picture of your install please?
 

alexxela767

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Hello.
You are going to have to elaborate a bit.

What method are you using? Old/New?
"Some restart"... Thats rather vague. When is it freezing? Is it staying in RCM? Is it on the Nintendo logo?
"I use AWG30, can it come from there?"... Can what come from there?
Not enough to go on to try and help you.

Usual start. Can you post a good picture of your install please?
I returned the console to its owner, I'll get it back next week.

According to him, the console was turned off and he could never restart it.

The method used is the new method 2, so I desoldered the wires one by one trying to restart between each desoldering and it only started again once the yellow and green wires of the usb on your desoldered schematic.

I wonder if this trinket does not come from the same supplier that caused me problems last time. I have an ItsyBitsy M0 that I will try to install next time.

I don't have time to do any more tests but if you're interested I'll send you the trinket that looks defective.
 

mattytrog

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I returned the console to its owner, I'll get it back next week.

According to him, the console was turned off and he could never restart it.

The method used is the new method 2, so I desoldered the wires one by one trying to restart between each desoldering and it only started again once the yellow and green wires of the usb on your desoldered schematic.

I wonder if this trinket does not come from the same supplier that caused me problems last time. I have an ItsyBitsy M0 that I will try to install next time.

I don't have time to do any more tests but if you're interested I'll send you the trinket that looks defective.

Method 2... I see.

Method 2 seems to be causing problems for people.

Still could do with some more info though - ie when it is crashing, what its doing. And pics

Can`t use method 2 with an itsy. The bootloader doesn`t pull RCM strap low.
 

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No mate. Just a common or garden Atmel.

It does look like I hid it though doesn't it lol! I see what you mean now. Nah hiding things isn't my style.

Don't bother me if folk know everything or copy from someone who copied from me. Not me who gets the grief! Shit rolls downhill, never up ;)

So does this cheaper alternative have the same features as a trinket?

Interested if you put something up, free shipping from rs-components too :)
 

mattytrog

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So does this cheaper alternative have the same features as a trinket?

Interested if you put something up, free shipping from rs-components too :)

It IS a trinket. Same MCU (chip), only difference is, its not on a PCB, there is no regulator, no diodes, no Dotstar. Regulator and diodes aren`t needed. The power supply is already filtered inside the switch and it has ample protection circuitry. You can fit any LED to the pin13 onboard LED pin that is marked on the picture in the OP.

I am not trying to sell a mod or recommend it to anybody. I had a spare 10 minutes and thought I`d put a graphic up. If you are doing for money purposes, ie because its cheaper, my advice is... Dont! Buy one ready to go (A trinket).

I put that up for those of us (including me) that don`t have a life. And who prefer soldering to anything else...
 
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mattytrog

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Cunningly put a picture of Raspberry Pi connection for programming in a spoiler under main SAMD chip graphic. Hope its clear enough.
 

ciariello

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So does this cheaper alternative have the same features as a trinket?

Interested if you put something up, free shipping from rs-components too :)

On Mouser a Trinket M0 costs around 7 € ... is not cheap enough?
If you buy 7 pieces, shipping costs are free.
 

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If anyone is attempting to convert their payloads for the ShaXLauncher, or SXLoader, I have uploaded CTCaers script as an exe file with open and save dialogs. Might help. If using for SXLoader, save as boot.dat, if using ShaX, 0001.dat, 0002.dat, 0003.dat ... ... etc

Python not required.

See OP for more.

Cheers
 
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