1. hack_my_switch

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    Question.

    Looking at method 1, is the 3v solder point on the top of the capacitor?
     
  2. mattytrog

    OP mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
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    It has to be attached to it
     
  3. Nazosan

    Nazosan GBAtemp Advanced Fan
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    Well I got a couple of scares with this. Man that capacitor is tiny. I don't even know how I did it. I thought I had a fairly steady hand, but not when I tried this. Somehow I got it. It truly frightened me when I finally got the SwitchMe trinket to show up on USB (I didn't realize it, but it seems you must be out of RCM mode to do this because nothing would make it show the "USB drive" to the computer until I let it boot the system then double pressed the reset switch at that point) and copied over the file only to have the system suddenly go blank and seem to refuse to turn on. I guess that was a hard power cutoff reset or something? It seemed to be unable to turn on, so I thought I did something bad for sure. (I did the simple four wire mode as I lack the confidence to do any more and I don't want unnecessary battery drain either.) When I held the power button for a bit for a hard poweroff then tried to turn it on again this time it turns on and delivers the payload (and I note with a bit of joy that it's even faster than TegraRCMSmash seems to be. Insanely fast and just so much more convenient without anything external.)

    Anyway, one thing I do want to say: I noticed right away that in the instruction pictures it's more efficient to turn the SwitchMe board the other way versus what is shown there. You need much smaller wires going a much shorter distance that way. Worked fine for me. I cut a small hole out of the case with a rotary tool to minimize the effects and there was still plenty of room for running wires over the USB connector and such between the board and the case without any bulge.

    BTW, did anyone else have troubles with the ground connector? For some reason it just would NOT solder for me. All the rest were fine -- even that capacitor didn't really fight with me thank goodness -- but that ground connection just would not stay soldered. It just popped right loose the moment I let go. Of note, the pictures are showing clean test points, but mine had a very tiny bit of solder on each of them instead. Still, the two data lines had no problem. I turned the heat up on my iron and it still took several tries. (I don't know how accurate it is on this iron. I normally use 325 on it as it seems to be the best balance between just hot enough to melt solder and actually get it to properly join with things without being too excessive. With this I had to raise it just a bit more to 350. Of course, this dial may not be accurate by any means.)
     
    Last edited by Nazosan, Sep 14, 2018
  4. consolex

    consolex GBAtemp Regular
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  5. olku

    olku Advanced Member
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    I also had trouble soldering ground, I tried several ground points but non would stick, it took like 10 tries until I finally got it to stick.
     
  6. Nazosan

    Nazosan GBAtemp Advanced Fan
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    Well at least it's not just me. I actually put a tiny dab of rosin on it before raising the heat on the iron, but in the end it seemed to just take a lot more heat on that point versus all the others. I find it strange the ground connector would be the one that would be so resistant though. Oh well.
     
  7. bill55

    bill55 Member
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    I'm having all sorts of problems with my SwitchMe.

    1. I direct wired it to the PC. The REBUG_BOOT drive shows up. I can read from it. When I drag a UF2 file to it, it seems to go there. I cannot remove any of the other files. If I try to they disappear but if I reboot the system the 3 original files are all back and the new one is gone.

    2. I have tried wiring the chip with method 1 and 3.
    a. With method 1 I tried using the manual RCM jig, but I get no payload logo or anything. Just stock Switch boots up.
    b. With method 3 I should not need RCM jig, but I get the same results as above.

    3. With the chip installed when I double click the button and connect to PC the REBUG_BOOT drive shows up again, but functions the same as #1.

    4. Is there something I am missing? I am thinking the chip might have an issue since those 3 files won't go away and every flash seems to do nothing. The CURRENT.UF2 file that is 512KB is there every time after reboot even if I drag over a new payload that is only 63KB. It's making me think that nothing is actually happening.

    Please someone help! :-)
    Thanks!
     
  8. Huntereb

    Huntereb GBAtemp Psycho!
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    All you should have to do is copy and paste your new UF2 to REBUG_BOOT and the device will automatically restart with the new payload (Eg; it should just disappear from your file explorer). You don't have to delete any of the original files, just try to give it a few seconds.
     
  9. bill55

    bill55 Member
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    I finally got this to work with the SX_OS.UF2 payload. The others I tried did not do this. The device just stayed there. Never rebooted. Now I am using the 4 wire method and a paperclip to jump the first and last pins of the right controller connection on the console when I power it up but I still get nothing different. Just a stock Switch. Am I doing something wrong?
     
  10. comput3rus3r

    comput3rus3r GBAtemp Psycho!
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    so how close do you think we are to a free sx-os?
     
  11. Akurosia

    Akurosia Member
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    Hi,
    i used method 1 with a trinket m0 and the multiloader on it.
    It loads all files sucessfully but i just can't get the trinket into the "pc" mode.
    It just cycles between red and purple led color.
    Any advice?
     
  12. Huntereb

    Huntereb GBAtemp Psycho!
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    We don't need it anymore, the free software solutions have far surpassed it in functionality.
     
  13. Huntereb
    This message by Huntereb has been removed from public view by x65943, Sep 14, 2018, Reason: Dupe.
    Sep 14, 2018 Show
  14. comput3rus3r

    comput3rus3r GBAtemp Psycho!
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    really? what can you do with free solutions that you can't do with sx-os?
     
  15. Flying Scotsman

    Flying Scotsman GBAtemp Fan
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    Anyone know how much battery Method 3 would use?

    I've got a SwitchME in the mail, and am trying to figure out whether Method 1 or 3 would be the better solution. I don't want to have to re-open my Switch further down the line to change the method config (don't like the idea of having to unsolder and solder onto different surface mount caps...) but the "will drain battery" without how much battery it'll drain is mildly concerning (are we talking 1 - 2% a night or are we looking more at 10 - 15% battery life?).

    *Edit* Rebug posted an alternate 4 wire install which doesn't seem to use any caps but uses 5V instead of 3?
     
    Last edited by Flying Scotsman, Sep 14, 2018
  16. mattytrog

    OP mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
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    Yes. But that will still use power from the battery. It is basically method 3 without the POR and RCM straps. I know the capacitor is hard to solder to, but it is the only way of doing it so your battery doesn`t go flat. You can remove the motherboard and go to the testpoint I highlighted in OP.

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Leave switch unplugged from everything.

    Make sure you are on main screen of switch

    Double-press reset

    then plug into USB. Rebug-boot should pop up.

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Yes. You aren`t holding vol+

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Double-posted again... Shit.

    Anyway...

    I have made a few alterations to the ShaXLauncher if anybody is using it. Basically, you don`t need to convert payloads to <whatever>.dat any more. Just drag and drop. Anyone interested?
     
    Last edited by mattytrog, Sep 15, 2018
  17. Flying Scotsman

    Flying Scotsman GBAtemp Fan
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    Am I right in saying with method 3 (and the capacitor) - I wouldn't be at risk of the battery going flat and the Switch not booting (the battery issue AutoRCM users had in other words)? That was my biggest concern but if that's not an issue, I'll go with method 3.
     
  18. mattytrog

    OP mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
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    With method 3 (and with rebugs "always on"), the problem is the Trinket / SwitchME is constantly powered (although asleep).

    In my tests, this uses 1.2mA. Which doesn`t sound a lot. And it isn`t.

    Most of that 1.2mA is used by the Low-Drop-Out regulator on the "chips" PCB rather than the "chip" itself. The actual chip uses very very little.

    This cannot be switched off, so the Rebug / Trinket will be powered all of the time in method 3.

    This 1.2mA figure I quoted is just powering the chip externally in bench tests.

    It may use more than this when actually fitted into the switch as there will be constant power going through the switch motherboard, possibly keeping other parts running (almost like parasitic power). Though I haven`t tested this. This is a theory.

    So, if you do method 3 or Rebugs always on method, while very easy, don`t be surprised if you put your switch away for a few days/weeks/months/whatever, come back to it, and find it completely flat. Like I said in another thread, portable devices will only let you discharge the battery to a certain "safe" level.

    But with method 3, there is no "safe" level and the chip will keep running until the voltage in the battery gets that low, the regulator drops out.

    This will be close to 0 volts. That is DANGEROUS territory for a lithium battery.

    EDIT:
    Actually I just looked over my notes and I have a figure where it dropped out at 2.1v. This is still damaging to the battery if not as dangerous. Bear in mind all regulators aren`t created equal. Some may drop out later or earlier. Depends on which regulator is fitted. This could still be dangerous though so keep it in mind.
     
    Last edited by mattytrog, Sep 15, 2018
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  19. mattytrog

    OP mattytrog You don`t want to listen to anything I say.
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    Added Hekate-dev for itsy to OP. Get from my Github. Will try to keep it updated, but I forget.

    :)
     
  20. Huntereb

    Huntereb GBAtemp Psycho!
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    Game cheating/debugging, full service permissions, legitimate telemetry disabling, custom boot logos, background audio playback, and infinitely more because it's open source. Oh, and you don't have to rely on daddy TX to push out three or more updates to fix shit that's already been fixed for weeks or months on the free software solutions.
     
  21. comput3rus3r

    comput3rus3r GBAtemp Psycho!
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    how do you do game cheating?
     
  22. evilsperm

    evilsperm Advanced Member
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    This is why I solder gnd right to the USB shield

    — Posts automatically merged - Please don't double post! —

    Told you 10 times on Twitter your doing it wrong.
    The name never changes because that what the uf2 instant flash changes it to no matter what you name it to.
    And on top of that if your not using rcm strap mode you need a jig and have to press POWER & VOL + at the same time.
     
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