I set 375 because this is what I was using for my previous project and I forgot to change it.
What temperature should I use? I didn't know you could burn the CLK point.
It should not be a problem as long as you don't keep the iron on it too long. I solder everything on this mod at +350 no problem so far.
Do you have any pictures of your work, maybe we can see something that you missed.
First time I tried this mod everything was sticking on easy. Didn't struggle soldering at all. This time I forgot to use microscope for this point and couldn't remember if I used it before. Also my both my tweezers were badly bent and I couldn't hold the wires with them so I used my fingers.
How do you know if you burned "CLK"? I barely scratch it, just enough to see the copper on the microscope.
I desoldered the 3.5k OHMS resistor, but on my broken oledswitch I measured the point on that resistor and it had the same reading as the resistor I desoldered. I could not attach another resistor after that and I gave up.
Using the solder wire
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I am no longer in possession of the switch.
What would you recommend going forward?
I am a hobbyist so I won't be sending it in since this is the only way I blow off steam.
What tweezers should I get? My last set got bent and could no longer hold wires.
Well if u burnt it completely off u should see it cause no solder sticks to it anymore .
And if u destroy the trace u should be able to see the trace ripped.
Always use flux, the rosin in the solder is most of the time not enough.
Never used the solder that u showed I always use unleaded though.
The original oled cmd resistor is 4.7kohm , so eather ur multimeter is wrong or maybe batteries is low mine shows wrong values when its low so maybe this is ur case.
But since its a pullup the 3.5 should do the job.
So u don't have the switch anymore?
Always use the microscope so u see what ur doing specially on those small joints
Solder sticks to it, but I don't have the switch anymore.
It is a personal goal for me to mod an OLED.
Last time I tried this all the soldering was easy and I would have had the install if I hadn't cut the chip.
This time solder didn't want to stick.
I could never reattach a resistor after the first one I successfully replaced.
My tweezers are crooked and the resistor would not stay.
CLK point was barely scratched. I scratch just enough for the copper.
Want to try modding the switch and getting it done successfully.
CLK worries me though, because I thought the CLK point was fine. Is there any way to confirm with a multimeter if your CLK point is fine before plugging it into the mod chip?
Replacing a resistor that small with only a soldering iron is probably the hardest challenge I have encountered in my 6 month soldering journey. Absolutely need to get a hot air station.
Do you use hot air station to replace resistors or soldering iron?
Just make sure in microscope the clk pad doesn't ripped.
If you're confident that its okay, than the problem lay on something else.
The clk pad is risky because its a small via connected to the lower layer. If the via broken then the clk connection between cpu and emmc are disconnected.
There is no easy way to check the continuity of clk line except by take the emmc out, and measure using multimeter the connection between the clk ball point and the clk trace that goes to the cpu.
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Last edited by abal1000x,
Very good explanation thx @abal1000xPicofly stored the payload to the emmc, the nosd picofly ones.
When you change to hwfly, the hwfly just run those stored payload, hence the picofly nosd.
When you flash the hwfly firmware, and run it, the firmware will store their payload to the emmc, overwriting the existing, and run it, hence the spacecraft-nx.
Those 2 socket price alone is at $3-$4.
The rp2040 and the supplement is around $4
The pcb and flex around $2-4.
So totals its around $9-$12.
Thats without the electricity and equipment invetation to solder the component to the board.
So if you got that hwfly core at around $15 they have cut the margin so small lol
This is the answer i was looking for
I’m just curious whats happening
haiii, i have similar problem. Are you solve that ? please help me
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please help me, I try to update firmware from 2.67 to 2.73(update bin) using pico_toolbox. It say success but my fw still in 2.67.
Last edited by Tanji,
Mann I gotta say this you are the best ;-)
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The best way for me to solder small smd resistors is with a hot air gun and flux. There is no easier way.
Well get some new tweezers they don't cost that much ;-)
Why did u cut up the chip? xd
Hello Guys,
Someone tried to replace the IR led on the top of the console by another one to have directly the chip led indications at this place ? Like the mod for the Lite one.
This IR led is usefull in which case ? Maybe possible to find an RGB LED combined with an IR to do this mod and preserve the IR function.
Someone tried to replace the IR led on the top of the console by another one to have directly the chip led indications at this place ? Like the mod for the Lite one.
This IR led is usefull in which case ? Maybe possible to find an RGB LED combined with an IR to do this mod and preserve the IR function.
Attachments
why dont u just take the Led from the raspi lay a few wire on top and the u have the Led up there
Check This Out !!! i think thats something ur looking for
That's the brightness sensor, not an IR led. You need it if you want automatic screen brightness to keep working.
Yes here the same - RP2040 OLED Installation - At the NAND Backup over Hakete the screen has freeze at 83% and now OFW allways in bluescreen. The RP2040 works fine but don't start anything from SD.
CFW = Blackscreen
OFW = Bluescreen
Caused maybe by a short circuit at Dat0 and Dat1
Anyone know a picofly firmware that boots direct into hakete ? Load from RP2040 Chip and not from SD.
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