Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[ypeeLs]

View attachment 369482
Here is a composite image I just took of a double mosfet install I am doing on a switch lite. The circles are the general points of interest and where they need to be hooked up. I jumpered between the gate pins on the mosfets and ran a single wire to the rp2040 to keep wire clutter down, as has been suggested previously.

are you using UV Resin to hold the mosfets down?

 

[Deleted member 542674]

......

 

[lightninjay]

are you using UV Resin to hold the mosfets down?

Yes, I use a toothpick and place a small dot of resin (smaller than the mosfet) just above/below where I want to place the mosfet, then gently place the mosfet on the edge of the droplet of resin so that it wicks to the side of the mosfet. Once it has wicked into place, I cure it with a UV laser pointer I have for quick hardening.

 

[QuiTim]

View attachment 369482
Here is a composite image I just took of a double mosfet install I am doing on a switch lite. The circles are the general points of interest and where they need to be hooked up. I jumpered between the gate pins on the mosfets and ran a single wire to the rp2040 to keep wire clutter down, as has been suggested previously.

Kudos on the work with that Gate wire. Very impressive.

 

[789-Benny]

I would suggest you get some lead solder 63/37 or similar. It makes everything easier. the one that you are using has a melting temp of 227° compared to Sn63/Pb37 of 183° or Sn62/Pb36/Ag2 of 179°
if you are in US you should have no problem getting Lead based solder (Kester is awesome).
Trying to get this stuff in EU is a nightmare.

Post automatically merged: May 6, 2023

i dont know what issues you are facing but those cards are not good for anything.
Get a SanDisk, Samsung Evo or Kingstone Canvas.
Basically any established brand name (beware of fakes)

I actually have some of that cost a bit.

Have just removed all redundant on picofly, soldered the resistors and just about to do the mosfets.

For the people who say don't attempt this, attempt it - gotta learn some how.

Take your time though

 

[LogicalMadness]

I actually have some of that cost a bit.

Have just removed all redundant on picofly, soldered the resistors and just about to do the mosfets.

For the people who say don't attempt this, attempt it - gotta learn some how.

Take your time though

Learn on an OGXB or 360, much cheaper and perfect learning curve.

 

[lightninjay]

I actually have some of that cost a bit.

Have just removed all redundant on picofly, soldered the resistors and just about to do the mosfets.

For the people who say don't attempt this, attempt it - gotta learn some how.

Take your time though

Says the guy who admitted to having several dead switch lite boards to practice on...

 

[789-Benny]

Says the guy who admitted to having several dead switch lite boards to practice on...

Why you so obsessed. Show me where this was said as well.

 

[lightninjay]

Why you so obsessed

Both threads need archived and a new thread needs created, people have gone way off subject and talk mad shit

 

[SkylerTakashi]

Is this good enough?
P:S:- that's a piece of cleaning cotton there's no shorts on the 2nd smd res.

 

[lightninjay]

Is this good enough?

woof, use more flux

 

[SkylerTakashi]

woof, use more flux

Yeah I'm actually using but it just melts away or when the solder melts the wires moves

 

[lightninjay]

Yeah I'm actually using but it just melts away or when the solder melts the wires moves

What I mean is, if the flux is evaporating and you are having to leave your iron in place long enough that it all evaporates, you are doing something wrong.
You need to put a little flux ( enough to cover the pad ) an have your wire pre-tinned, then put a small glob of solder on your soldering iron tip, place the head of your wire/resistor in place near the pad, then bring the solder ball into contact with the flux and allow the solder to flow and shine.
The whole process happens in mere moments, you shouldn't be holding your iron in place for multiple seconds, with exception to soldering to the ground plane.

 

[QuiTim]

Yeah I'm actually using but it just melts away or when the solder melts the wires moves

check for short/bridge here (might be just the angle of the photo)

 

[SkylerTakashi]

What I mean is, if the flux is evaporating and you are having to leave your iron in place long enough that it all evaporates, you are doing something wrong.
You need to put a little flux ( enough to cover the pad ) an have your wire pre-tinned, then put a small glob of solder on your soldering iron tip, place the head of your wire/resistor in place near the pad, then bring the solder ball into contact with the flux and allow the solder to flow and shine.
The whole process happens in mere moments, you shouldn't be holding your iron in place for multiple seconds, with exception to soldering to the ground plane.

That actually make sense... I'm. Too tired to do it again now, I'll leave it for tomorrow, thank you.

Post automatically merged: May 6, 2023

check for short/bridge here (might be just the angle of the photo)

Yeah at first i thought it's making a contact with that resistor but i checked and it's fine actually.

 

[Danook28]

If 47R smd resistor multimater read it same short some resistor no and back to beep... What is wrong with smd.

 

[dave22]

The wait finally came to an end. I installed the first one last night but it did take me longer then I expected (thanks to 3v3 point)

On my search to find some 47R resistors locally, I stumbled upon IRF8714 (SO-8) Mosfet and I thought why not, lets give it a shot (the alternative was to use V1 flex on Mariko since I’m still waiting on the order from Ali with mosfets, resistors, wires and everything)
I only used one IRF8714 (connected to both caps) and everything works ok (Inspired by @dave22 layout, thank you)
Being an SO-8, the mosfet is a bit large so I cut the shield between the APU and memory just to be sure, but the upside is that it’s really easy to solder (because of the size and terminal layout)
I also cut the outer shield just for the fun of it and I think it looks nice this way.
The only issue that I had was the original 3v3 point on the cap. I guess after couple of tries I lost my cool a ripped the upper pad of cap (as it can be seen in the photo), and then I went for the alternative point in emmc which I soldered in 5sec.

Used 2.65 firmware and there was no problem whatsoever, everything works as intended.

I would like to thank @rehius for the amazing work and all the time he put in this project, and also @lightninjay for compiling the information on the pdf, @Adran_Marit for AIO and all the tips.

I think the real win here was finding this community of amazing people who share a passion of doing incredible things and their willingness to help others and bring them along in this journey.

CheersView attachment 366254View attachment 366256View attachment 366257View attachment 366258View attachment 366259View attachment 366260View attachment 366261

good job bro

 

[LogicalMadness]

Is this good enough?
P:S:- that's a piece of cleaning cotton there's no shorts on the 2nd smd res.

Flux to make it pretty

 

[leerz]

Hi
Raspberry pi pico
Two sd same problem
Please help me

emmc in slow mode. run emmc benchmark, redo your work, wires too long

 

[axlcat]

Already make over 50 Picofly 20 oled do have any problems before. Always make RGB mode is must be PURPLE not Pink

Bad 3V. point use the point above instead