You can use the toolbox to flash itWhat’s the cause, and I got rid of the usb cable
You can use the toolbox to flash itWhat’s the cause, and I got rid of the usb cable
Yea the thing is….. it doesn’t boot into it anymore, after I reset the chip. Idk why it cussed it to do this but I’m going to use a usb , solder some 36 AWG and try to reflash itYou can use the toolbox to flash it
Ah right... hmm I wonder why it stopped. Did you remember which firmware to flashed?Yea the thing is….. it doesn’t boot into it anymore, after I reset the chip. Idk why it cussed it to do this but I’m going to use a usb , solder some 36 AWG and try to reflash it
sdcard circuit check if it has 3v on sdcard line, i've seen a switch with this specific issue, it's either the mosfet nearby that 3v or the driver.anyone ever have issue that when a chip is installed it show the no sdcard , and if u insterd a sdcard u get a black screen?and does not boot ofw
got a switch Oled here where someone brought it to a friend to install a hwfly chip except for the dat0 he did that himself .
the board has a few issue i know about the latch from the lcd connector is missing but i got so far it does display the screen, it also had the cmd resistor ripped off of the solder joint , two lines above emmc where cut.
i didnt work so he uninstalled the dat0,hwfly,flex kabel but left 3v,gnd,cmd,clk,rst kabels laying in the the switch and possible had a connection to the shield. havent found any shorts though.
i uninstalled the cable tried to get it to boot nothing
installed picofly get no sd
put sd with hekate in , black screen
oh sdcard reader is fine i put his in mine it works , put mine in his same issue
hope its not to off topic
I do turn off my sw lite.You need to do a full power off. hold power button -> power options -> power off.
2.64 was installed, idk jf that had a bug that caused reset bugsAh right... hmm I wonder why it stopped. Did you remember which firmware to flashed?
details of your model, emmc type and modchip type?2.64 was installed, idk jf that had a bug that caused reset bugs
I did on my first mod, and it's a bear. You are REALLY likely to accidentally rip pads off if you are not very diligent at securing the wire from flopping around.Hi guys, can I use AWG30 to every points?
did you have a diagram for install fet, switch oled?3and4 bridge to gother bro.
Which ones exactly did you lose? If it's truly the resistors on the USB lines (there are 2, 5.1k resistors to trigger the USB-C protocol), and you are already done flashing your firmware, no foul.Hello guys! I accidentally remove and lost 2 of the resistor near the USB port pins of the rp2040 while removing the USB port. Do i need to buy a new rp2040 or will this one still work?
In case you have looked through the definitive guide hosted on this site, the OLED mosfet install would functionally be a Mariko (V2) install. It's just a matter of how the capacitors around the APU are oriented.did you have a diagram for install fet, switch oled?
Please post photos of your DAT0 solder points, both the one on the switch and the one on your RP2040.I keep getting orange light and I've checked all the connections and even used alternate solder points. i have a v2 switch with toshiba emmc it seems. I read somewhere that some emmc may not be supported? or is there anything else that I need to do for toshiba emmc? I used the latest fw 2.64 btw
V1; picoflydetails of your model, emmc type and modchip type?
Thanks, now I have an issue unrelated. When taking off the metal shroud around the cpu I knocked something off. Anyone have an idea what it is? Edit: my wife no longer works now and I am guessing this is whyI think it's overkill and with a such wide diameter there's more chance for shorts and ripping off the pads from the PCB.
AWG30 for APU MOSFET(s) is enough.
AWG30 for power is more than enough.
AWG36 or higher (enamel wire) for the rest is good.
Which ones exactly did you lose? If it's truly the resistors on the USB lines (there are 2, 5.1k resistors to trigger the USB-C protocol), and you are already done flashing your firmware, no foul.
However, there are also capacitors near those resistors, and you may have swept those off instead. I would say try plugging in the rp2040 to power to try and see if it blinks, but you've removed the port. You could solder a temporary usb plug to the pins and power it from USB if you feel confident enough to do that.
Solder Black to pin 1, and Red to pin 2 and that should work for checking if you need to replace those resistors/caps (or buy a new board), or if everything will work.
One of those is typically unpopulated anyway, so that's fine, and the other also seems irrelevant to anything but the USB.View attachment 365239the 2 of those got lost by me accidentaly.
100nF capacitor, you can rob one off of the RP2040 near the CPU.Thanks, now I have an issue unrelated. When taking off the metal shroud around the cpu I knocked something off. Anyone have an idea what it is? Edit: my wife no longer works now and I am guessing this is why
I have encountered a switch lite with a voltage drop of 9 millivolts, which is still normal.19,5 Ohm with the lowest resistance. Is a relieve because I had a lot of problem soldering the second mosfet.
Thank you
Thanks. I already flashed it before removing the usb port. I tried the pin 1 black and pin 2 red but the rp2040 did not power on. Then I tried the red and black on the usb pins then plugged it on my laptop and it has blue led light then flashed purple. I guess I can still use this rp2040 right?One of those is typically unpopulated anyway, so that's fine, and the other also seems irrelevant to anything but the USB.