Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[linuxares]

What’s the cause, and I got rid of the usb cable

You can use the toolbox to flash it

 

[busmanl30]

You can use the toolbox to flash it

Yea the thing is….. it doesn’t boot into it anymore, after I reset the chip. Idk why it cussed it to do this but I’m going to use a usb , solder some 36 AWG and try to reflash it

 

[linuxares]

Yea the thing is….. it doesn’t boot into it anymore, after I reset the chip. Idk why it cussed it to do this but I’m going to use a usb , solder some 36 AWG and try to reflash it

Ah right... hmm I wonder why it stopped. Did you remember which firmware to flashed?

 

[leerz]

anyone ever have issue that when a chip is installed it show the no sdcard , and if u insterd a sdcard u get a black screen?and does not boot ofw
got a switch Oled here where someone brought it to a friend to install a hwfly chip except for the dat0 he did that himself .
the board has a few issue i know about the latch from the lcd connector is missing but i got so far it does display the screen, it also had the cmd resistor ripped off of the solder joint , two lines above emmc where cut.

i didnt work so he uninstalled the dat0,hwfly,flex kabel but left 3v,gnd,cmd,clk,rst kabels laying in the the switch and possible had a connection to the shield. havent found any shorts though.

i uninstalled the cable tried to get it to boot nothing

installed picofly get no sd

put sd with hekate in , black screen

oh sdcard reader is fine i put his in mine it works , put mine in his same issue


hope its not to off topic

sdcard circuit check if it has 3v on sdcard line, i've seen a switch with this specific issue, it's either the mosfet nearby that 3v or the driver.

 

[DejavuStudio]

You need to do a full power off. hold power button -> power options -> power off.

I do turn off my sw lite.
it like my when im turn on my sw, it straight boot to OFW, there is no glitch light on pico, it some kind of the pico is turn off itsself and no turn on.

 

[busmanl30]

Ah right... hmm I wonder why it stopped. Did you remember which firmware to flashed?

2.64 was installed, idk jf that had a bug that caused reset bugs

 

[jkyoho]

2.64 was installed, idk jf that had a bug that caused reset bugs

details of your model, emmc type and modchip type?

 

[rsilveira1991]

Hi guys, can I use AWG30 to every points?

 

[lightninjay]

Hi guys, can I use AWG30 to every points?

I did on my first mod, and it's a bear. You are REALLY likely to accidentally rip pads off if you are not very diligent at securing the wire from flopping around.

I had to repair several traces, and ultimately ended up using AWG40 magnet wire to do a majority of the mod, but left AWG30 for the 3.3v and gnd, as well as the mosfet wiring.

 

[John_Titor21]

Hello guys! I accidentally remove and lost 2 of the resistor near the USB port pins of the rp2040 while removing the USB port. Do i need to buy a new rp2040 or will this one still work?

 

[richam2008]

3and4 bridge to gother bro.

did you have a diagram for install fet, switch oled?

 

[lightninjay]

Hello guys! I accidentally remove and lost 2 of the resistor near the USB port pins of the rp2040 while removing the USB port. Do i need to buy a new rp2040 or will this one still work?

Which ones exactly did you lose? If it's truly the resistors on the USB lines (there are 2, 5.1k resistors to trigger the USB-C protocol), and you are already done flashing your firmware, no foul.

However, there are also capacitors near those resistors, and you may have swept those off instead. I would say try plugging in the rp2040 to power to try and see if it blinks, but you've removed the port. You could solder a temporary usb plug to the pins and power it from USB if you feel confident enough to do that.

Solder Black to pin 1, and Red to pin 2 and that should work for checking if you need to replace those resistors/caps (or buy a new board), or if everything will work.

Post automatically merged: Apr 16, 2023

did you have a diagram for install fet, switch oled?

In case you have looked through the definitive guide hosted on this site, the OLED mosfet install would functionally be a Mariko (V2) install. It's just a matter of how the capacitors around the APU are oriented.

https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

Here's a link to the guide, just in case you haven't seen it yet. I may be biased, but I think it's pretty good, thanks to all the amazing information the tempers here have been able to provide for me to compile. It even has the OLED install diagram from the comment you just quoted.

 

[neo_33]

I keep getting orange light and I've checked all the connections and even used alternate solder points. i have a v2 switch with toshiba emmc it seems. I read somewhere that some emmc may not be supported? or is there anything else that I need to do for toshiba emmc? I used the latest fw 2.64 btw

 

[lightninjay]

I keep getting orange light and I've checked all the connections and even used alternate solder points. i have a v2 switch with toshiba emmc it seems. I read somewhere that some emmc may not be supported? or is there anything else that I need to do for toshiba emmc? I used the latest fw 2.64 btw

Please post photos of your DAT0 solder points, both the one on the switch and the one on your RP2040.

 

[busmanl30]

details of your model, emmc type and modchip type?

V1; picofly

 

[Smiles]

I think it's overkill and with a such wide diameter there's more chance for shorts and ripping off the pads from the PCB.

AWG30 for APU MOSFET(s) is enough.
AWG30 for power is more than enough.
AWG36 or higher (enamel wire) for the rest is good.

Thanks, now I have an issue unrelated. When taking off the metal shroud around the cpu I knocked something off. Anyone have an idea what it is? Edit: my wife no longer works now and I am guessing this is why

 

[John_Titor21]

Which ones exactly did you lose? If it's truly the resistors on the USB lines (there are 2, 5.1k resistors to trigger the USB-C protocol), and you are already done flashing your firmware, no foul.

However, there are also capacitors near those resistors, and you may have swept those off instead. I would say try plugging in the rp2040 to power to try and see if it blinks, but you've removed the port. You could solder a temporary usb plug to the pins and power it from USB if you feel confident enough to do that.

Solder Black to pin 1, and Red to pin 2 and that should work for checking if you need to replace those resistors/caps (or buy a new board), or if everything will work.

the 2 of those got lost by me accidentaly.

 

[lightninjay]

View attachment 365239the 2 of those got lost by me accidentaly.

One of those is typically unpopulated anyway, so that's fine, and the other also seems irrelevant to anything but the USB.

Post automatically merged: Apr 16, 2023

Thanks, now I have an issue unrelated. When taking off the metal shroud around the cpu I knocked something off. Anyone have an idea what it is? Edit: my wife no longer works now and I am guessing this is why

100nF capacitor, you can rob one off of the RP2040 near the CPU.

Check the definitive guide for a location, but any of the two to the left or to the right of the CPU should work.

 

[Kiuxn]

19,5 Ohm with the lowest resistance. Is a relieve because I had a lot of problem soldering the second mosfet.

Thank you

I have encountered a switch lite with a voltage drop of 9 millivolts, which is still normal.

 

[John_Titor21]

One of those is typically unpopulated anyway, so that's fine, and the other also seems irrelevant to anything but the USB.

Thanks. I already flashed it before removing the usb port. I tried the pin 1 black and pin 2 red but the rp2040 did not power on. Then I tried the red and black on the usb pins then plugged it on my laptop and it has blue led light then flashed purple. I guess I can still use this rp2040 right?