It should not.Ok I will wait for it to timeout. If it does end up working is it going to be like that every time I go to turn it on?
The parameter found are saved, so the next time it reboot, it will use that.
It should not.Ok I will wait for it to timeout. If it does end up working is it going to be like that every time I go to turn it on?
So I went ahead and turned it back on to let it cycle, and it eventually timed out and turned off. What do you think the next step would be? Would it really be the ribbon cable? This is the second one I've used. The first cable booted up the first time, and then I disconnected one cable so I could put the heat sink back on, and it's been blue light ever since. I initially did the mosfets first, and it didn't want to work then, either. It was giving the unstable code, which I've been able to fix by doing the SDA SCL cables. That method also worked once, but only once. I'm not really sure where to go from here. This is the first time I have used the cables and done a switch lite. I haven't had this problem with any of the V2s I've done. Are they known to be more difficult? It doesn't make me feel too confident about doing my OLED.It should not.
The parameter found are saved, so the next time it reboots, it will use that.
Need confirmation, i confused.So I went ahead and turned it back on to let it cycle, and it eventually timed out and turned off. What do you think the next step would be? Would it really be the ribbon cable? This is the second one I've used. The first cable booted up the first time, and then I disconnected one cable so I could put the heat sink back on, and it's been blue light ever since. I initially did the mosfets first, and it didn't want to work then, either. It was giving the unstable code, which I've been able to fix by doing the SDA SCL cables. That method also worked once, but only once. I'm not really sure where to go from here. This is the first time I have used the cables and done a switch lite. I haven't had this problem with any of the V2s I've done. Are they known to be more difficult? It doesn't make me feel too confident about doing my OLED.
It might silly question. I see your customer could open the device and video it. Did he ever try to take the battery connector off, then connect it again?I don't want to insist, also because since I don't have the console here I can't be sure that everything is fine.
I want to specify, however, that this is the second time this has happened to me.
My installations are all the same, I attach photos.
To solve, the test time it happened to me I replaced the Rp2040, without touching the existing welds.
I specify that the replaced rp2040, I reused it once flashed again.
So I have my doubts, surely I can say that I have not encountered any problems with the fw 2.67, I don't know if it can be something from the fw with the rp2040 taken from aliexpress for a few euros / dollars.
I have installed 2 mosfets a few times, the other times always single mosfet, hooked on double capacitor.
Can't I do anything to reset the rp2040 gliches?
I mean, I'm confident in my job.
I might be wrong, but I doubt it, I think there is something firmware/hardware wrong.
(excuse my english by Google).
So when I took out the mosfets that weren't working I installed the first cable. The first time I turned it on it went to the correct "SD card" screen. I removed just the CPU cable so I could install the heat sink. The switch was 100% unplugged. I do not have the SDA SCL lines connected anymore. They were only connected when I was using the mosfets. Do you think that I should connect them even though I'm not getting that error code?Need confirmation, i confused.
1. you have use two different flex?
2. The first flex worked, but the others don't?
3. What cable you disconnected when closing the heat sink?
4. You still connect the SDA and SCL line until now?
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It might silly question. I see your customer could open the device and video it. Did he ever try to take the battery connector off, then connect it again?
Ah i see. Could it be the G line solder short circuit with the GND from shield? Have you tried to isolate it with kapton tape?So when I took out the mosfets that weren't working I installed the first cable. The first time I turned it on it went to the correct "SD card" screen. I removed just the CPU cable so I could install the heat sink. The switch was 100% unplugged. I do not have the SDA SCL lines connected anymore. They were only connected when I was using the mosfets. Do you think that I should connect them even though I'm not getting that error code?
What is that?Ah i see. Could it be the G line solder short circuit with the GND from shield? Have you tried to isolate it with kapton tape?
I tried with my lite that just show no sd card screen and get black screen only with that "update".Well, I've tried to put hekate 6.0.4 directly as sdloader, but Ubuntu says "Board was not initialized properly!"
looks like hekate doesn't support being the first loader in the chain on Mariko and we need updates from @CTCaer here.
for test purposes only. it is highly likely this won't go in release ever
Nothing is shorted to ground. Nothing is connected. Everything is clean.
Have you try give kapton tape on the cpu cap solder. If you put solder too much it could short circuit with the GND shield, when you close the heat sink.Nothing is shorted to ground. Nothing is connected. Everything is clean.
I mean it is touching yeah, but it is soldered at 4 points pushing against thre soldering ball... where the hell can it go, move or... fly?So making sure u have a proper solder connection is a waste of time and money ?
why dont u just pretin the wires and glue then with UV Resin on the solder points
one day the issue will come there is no real connection.
people pay for the install so no waste of time and money , reballing a emmc takes 5 min installing a perm dat0 adapter 2 min reflowing takes to min , cleaning takes 1-2 min so all togehter max 10 min every installer can spare if they charge 100+ for installing a chip
like i said these are just my 2 cents everybody do like they do, but pressing in a adapter and solder it to the top anchors is not a proper connection for me .
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atleast some people have common sense here.
u cannot compare a flex cable that is properly soldered to the connections it needs with a Dat0 adapter that is pressed against a solder point.
Specially when u are an Aircraft electronics , if u would tell anyone u use a dat0 flex adapter what is pushed it so make a connection and soldered on the side on an aircraft you would loose ur job.
Yes i know a Switch is no aircraft and there is no real compairson (prob spelled wrong)
but as a 20+ aircraft tachnican u would not use a Dat0 Adapter if u take ANY Pride of ur work.
i have 16 years of soldering and repairing expierience and i would never offer such a half ass job even if it works
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yeah ive also heard that befor but since the issue was befor pico install there is a issue with his sdcard slot
but when arent u high on something and ur answer are specially then always right Xd
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take a needle and see if u can move some of those pins , also these solder joints do not look very good.
if i would have that issue like u i would atleast resolder those pins cause the connection look kinda crappy to me.
I have not, but I definitely will give that a try. Do you think I should re-solder the SDA and SCL? Also, What about the large tab that goes under the shielding? Does that need to be soldered or Kapton taped?Have you try give kapton tape on the cpu cap solder. If you put solder too much it could short circuit with the GND shield, when you close the heat sink.
No, the SDA and SCL is the last option, when the glitch didn't work at all.I have not, but I definitely will give that a try. Do you think I should re-solder the SDA and SCL? Also, What about the large tab that goes under the shielding? Does that need to be soldered or Kapton taped?
ok so lets say that i tape everything up and nothing changes. where do we do from there?No, the SDA and SCL is the last option, when the glitch didn't work at all.
In your case the glitch are work, but cannot found the precised parameter.
Using SDA and SCL seems unstable. The time it glitch kind of random.
The concern about the tab is the friction with the shield, i usually put kapton tape on it, just for prevention, if someship happened.
I've no idea.ok so lets say that i tape everything up and nothing changes. where do we do from there?
would you suggest changing out the cable for the second time or do you think it would be a board level problem?I've no idea.
The only possible scenario for that condition happened is problematic dat0 or mosfet.
Changing cable might work, but checking continuity is enough. As long its connected and not short circuiting anything than its okay.would you suggest changing out the cable for the second time or do you think it would be a board level problem?
Ok when I get home I will do some more work on it. I will keep you posted. Thank you for your help.Changing cable might work, but checking continuity is enough. As long its connected and not short circuiting anything than its okay.
Changing the rp2040 i dont think will be usefull. Since all the step are working, until the last step.
The only thing might affect, is turn off the rp2040 by plug off the battery connector then plug it on.
Since you using mosfet from the flex cable, then the diameter is not an issue, since the flex surface for D,S is so huge that it could afford the high current flows there. The only problem known is short circuit on cap solder, and short circuit with the shield. This could be detected by simply remove the shield. The glitch should work as usual.
wait a second... ive already made sure nothing was shorted to ground. including the CPU connection (#15) on the rp2040 zero. Wouldn't that show a short if the cap was touching the shield? can it be shorted and not shorted to ground?Changing cable might work, but checking continuity is enough. As long its connected and not short circuiting anything than its okay.
Changing the rp2040 i dont think will be usefull. Since all the step are working, until the last step.
The only thing might affect, is turn off the rp2040 by plug off the battery connector then plug it on.
Since you using mosfet from the flex cable, then the diameter is not an issue, since the flex surface for D,S is so huge that it could afford the high current flows there. The only problem known is short circuit on cap solder, and short circuit with the shield. This could be detected by simply remove the shield. The glitch should work as usual.
Did I just see the DATA1 is touching the ground sheild?
View attachment 376572
FYI, pin3 from left is ground.