Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[derfreaker]

Reset the chip - short the 2 pins near usb port

Post automatically merged: Mar 29, 2023

You can bridge them they are on the same trace - bridging them also helps securing them better

Can you draw which one?

And can i do it without an soldering iron?
Because i did it at my work

 

[Maou_SET]

Don’t really know a lot about modchips myself, I’ve got a local guy who probably modded more than 200 switches so far, talked with him about the picofly for a bit. Seems like a knowledgeable guy, talked about all the other stuff that I don’t understand about circutry (he works with other consoles too). He told me that it is still unkown if this is a safe choice in long run and that it was a bit more risky than the regular HWFLY chip installations. But he told me that he could install it in my v2 if I really wanted to (never installed it, my console will be his first experience with picofly). What y’all think, should I trust him with the picofly and let him install it or should I pay 100€ (chip and installation included) for the HWFLY (same guy, but for sure he is pretty darn good with hwfly, cheapest dude who mods switches too)? Is it worth taking that risk for 80 euros?

When he successfully installed 200+ Hwfly then he will be able to install the pico. I personally don't think installing the pico is risky for an experiences person. I had no problem with the install and I never installed a modchip in my life. But I have around three years in microsoldering experience and a few more years in total. I think you can risk it.

 

[JackFrostSMT]

I don't think you are supposed to bridge these pads. You are only supposed to use one of them each. Look at the instruction photos.

According to this, they are already connected.

 

[Maou_SET]

View attachment 361964
According to this, they are already connected.

Yea I was informed. Good to know. Next time I will bridge them. That will definiteley improve the reliability of the connection.

 

[rehius]

I get blue then pink flash and ofw but cmd/clk is fine?

Check resistance with multimeter, CLK -> 27 and CMD -> 28 must give 47 Ohm

it's either soldered to wrong places, or no contact somewhere

 

[cowboy619]

Can you draw which one?

And can i do it without an soldering iron?
Because i did it at my work

Use a set of tweezers bridge the 2 points near rat. Then power on. Chip will glow blue then boot into ofw power off then power on then the chip will re train and glitch again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JackFrostSMT]

Check resistance with multimeter, CLK -> 27 and CMD -> 28 must give 47 Ohm

it's either soldered to wrong places, or no contact somewhere

Yup 47 ohms all around, diode mode shows 0.68 on all but rst which shows 1.2

 

[rehius]

Yup 47 ohms all around, diode mode shows 0.68 on all but rst which shows 1.2

clean flux and take a whole photo of everything

 

[everyonesweird]

Don’t really know a lot about modchips myself, I’ve got a local guy who probably modded more than 200 switches so far, talked with him about the picofly for a bit. Seems like a knowledgeable guy, talked about all the other stuff that I don’t understand about circutry (he works with other consoles too). He told me that it is still unkown if this is a safe choice in long run and that it was a bit more risky than the regular HWFLY chip installations. But he told me that he could install it in my v2 if I really wanted to (never installed it, my console will be his first experience with picofly). What y’all think, should I trust him with the picofly and let him install it or should I pay 100€ (chip and installation included) for the HWFLY (same guy, but for sure he is pretty darn good with hwfly, cheapest dude who mods switches too)? Is it worth taking that risk for 80 euros?

Then this is not for you. This picofly is still work in progress and there are many who have bricked the switch. Me myself bricked my patched v1 switch experimenting on this.luckily i have unbricked it. Picofly doesnot fit inside properly without removing the usb port and the two buttons. When you remove them, you will miss a lot if any update comes in future. You will still need to contact to your installer time and again which is a lot of work for him.
As an installer myself, i choose stability for a customer who doubts a lot and brags about how costly and wants 100 percent gurantee.
This picofly is not a stable solution for you. Instead go for hwfly. That way, your installer is also confident, and peace of mind for both you and the installer.

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

 

[everyonesweird]

To everyone who bricked the console attempting this picofly,
Use Sthetix unbricking method.
Start from level 1.
But usually soft bricked will be solved using level 2 method.
You will need a Hwfly modchip though.
Link here.


Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

 

[rehius]

To everyone who bricked the console attempting this picofly,
Use Sthetix unbricking method.
Start from level 1.
But usually soft bricked will be solved using level 2 method.
Link here.


Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

it is enough to flash a clean BOOT0 for your firmware version to fix boot.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-build-clean-boot0-1-files.591409/

 

[JackFrostSMT]

clean flux and take a whole photo of everything

This is what it looks like now that Ive redone it, still same behavior unfortunately

 

[rskL]

I've already got the flex cable, resistors and rp2040,
Should I get this stuff to help with the install?
If anyone could recommend any changes or other bits that may help, that would be great

 

[Maou_SET]

I've already got the flex cable, resistors and rp2040,
Should I get this stuff to help with the install?
If anyone could recommend any changes or other bits that may help, that would be great
View attachment 361986

Get some Kapton tape and a bit of solder wick just in case. I would also recommend item 4000241968514. Just search for that number on the site and you will find it.

 

[rehius]

This is what it looks like now that Ive redone it, still same behavior unfortunately

ensure the colors are correct, you should see RED after the USB UF2 write

 

[JackFrostSMT]

ensure the colors are correct, you should see RED after the USB UF2 write

I had the rgb jumper set like the tutorial, saw no led after write... I'll try unsetting it

 

[rehius]

I had the rgb jumper set like the tutorial, saw no led after write... I'll try unsetting it

it's either green or red, write UF2 again and check

 

[808080]

MOSFET finally arrived. Flying install for testing.. first boot gave me blue, cyan, off. Second boot flashed blue for a little while, then booted to OFW.. every boot since gives me a green light within a second and boots to Hekate. Awesome!
This is a patched Erista that I used to run with Pegascape.

What is the type of MOSFET you have? What is the trade name? Thanks！！！！

 

[Arakon]

What is the type of MOSFET you have? What is the trade name? Thanks！！！！

It's the recommended IRFHS8342. I had also tried an AO3400, but that didn't work at all.

 

[JackFrostSMT]

it's either green or red, write UF2 again and check

I got red on program and cyan now.......But gg cap
Im guessing this is needed and can't be left like this?