This?Yes. Ive been looking for one on ebay. Mind sending a link?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ninten...er-Assembly-Flex-Cable-Parts-YU/183199845822?
This?Yes. Ive been looking for one on ebay. Mind sending a link?
I thought about doing this, from AliExpress. Then the "jig" can have a sloppy soldering job and I won't care.Would it be possible in theory to buy a replacement joy con slider from china and use an alligator clip jumper wire to bridge pins 1 and 10 and have a oem jig
I was curius about jumper leads because i cannot solderI thought about doing this, from AliExpress. Then the "jig" can have a sloppy soldering job and I won't care.
Joycons have firmware?
How do we check the firmware of joycon?
To check JC FW, connect JC to PC via BT,Joycons have firmware?
How do we check the firmware of joycon?
Between Connecting 1 and 10?Or just use a reed switch like I did lol
Between 10 and any ground. 9 still works if you make it a switch rather than a direct short.Between Connecting 1 and 10?
You can't check the firmware version AFAIK, but you can update the firmware in System Settings. 4.1.0 is backwards compatible with 3.0.0 (I've tested on my own units).
@garyopa - Your title is misleading and the mod is ridiculous. This has happened with my units and I use pins 1 and 10, so it's not isolated to 9 and 10 like the tweet and title reference. A simple power cycle fixes the issue. And I'll just say now, new rails will likely be a thing due to over-use, but this post is very misleading for regular users.
Shorting pin 10 for long periods of time is still not best thing, it was never designed to be anything more than quick press HOME button along with the other two buttons. --
But if you going to short pin 10 forever inside the Joycon it is best to do what the original tweet in first post did, using a small resister between pins 1 and 10 or 7 and 10.
Even tho pin 9 works, its officially not a ground, if you trace out the circuits in switch and joycon, its connected to SoC network of pins, and after a long while (in our internal tests, a month or two) of daily usage it can might cause damage, making the system behave weird.
So in end if you going to go the pin9 and 10 route, do it as quick jig, or added button attached to pins on the joycon, but if you going that length, you might as well solder it right and use the other pins and add the resister.
Of course bricking your boot0 (zero'ing the public keys) to cause AutoRCM, removes the whole idea of doing a permanent mod to your rails or joycon. -- But of course that means you stuck forever in launching payloads via the usb.
Thanks for the explanation. I still think the title should be re-worded though, it's more of a caveat than just outright "bad". As it stands now it's total clickbait like a lot of the other threads being made. Rail replacements are a thing and there is a very easy fix to the issue mentioned in the tweet which is a simple power cycle or re-sync of the right joycon.
As for weird behavior, what was happening in your testing? I'm sure it would be good for the community to know in case someone runs into it on their own, and can also deem if shorting pins 9 and 10 is truly "bad" practice or not.
Can you give some more information on this please? How did you do it?Put it inside a gutted joycon strap for an even more OEM look
View attachment 125755 View attachment 125756
You explained that you can simple power cycle the joycon or re-sync it but this does not seem to work for me, any idea why and thanks for the info.
Can you give some more information on this please? How did you do it?
Depends as a lot of consoles are not easy to unbrick with softmod while usually a modchip tends to help a lot in that department...Softmods tend to be generally safer, I'm not comfortable messing with pins, so yeah, not doing it.
Why did you use pin 10+6?Just reed reed switch it