Hacking Finally Someone Tweets Why Pin 9 with 10 is BAD!

[Pluupy]

Yes. Ive been looking for one on ebay. Mind sending a link?

This?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ninten...er-Assembly-Flex-Cable-Parts-YU/183199845822?

 

[Scottla94]

Yes thats the piece if your using a slider it would be the same as just putting a joy con in and just jump the pins on the solder points without having to solder less chance of messing up pins because its an oem part

 

[Jayro]

Would it be possible in theory to buy a replacement joy con slider from china and use an alligator clip jumper wire to bridge pins 1 and 10 and have a oem jig

I thought about doing this, from AliExpress. Then the "jig" can have a sloppy soldering job and I won't care.

 

[Scottla94]

I thought about doing this, from AliExpress. Then the "jig" can have a sloppy soldering job and I won't care.

I was curius about jumper leads because i cannot solder

 

[Maximilious]

Joycons have firmware?

How do we check the firmware of joycon?

You can't check the firmware version AFAIK, but you can update the firmware in System Settings. 4.1.0 is backwards compatible with 3.0.0 (I've tested on my own units).

@garyopa - Your title is misleading and the mod is ridiculous. This has happened with my units and I use pins 1 and 10, so it's not isolated to 9 and 10 like the tweet and title reference. A simple power cycle fixes the issue. And I'll just say now, new rails will likely be a thing due to over-use, but this post is very misleading for regular users.

 

[YyAoMmIi]

Joycons have firmware?

How do we check the firmware of joycon?

To check JC FW, connect JC to PC via BT,
And use this
https://gbatemp.net/threads/tool-joy-con-toolkit.478560/

 

[Deleted User]

deleted because of moronopitiy

 

[OrGoN3]

Or just use a reed switch like I did lol

Between Connecting 1 and 10?

 

[TheCyberQuake]

Between Connecting 1 and 10?

Between 10 and any ground. 9 still works if you make it a switch rather than a direct short.

 

[garyopa]

You can't check the firmware version AFAIK, but you can update the firmware in System Settings. 4.1.0 is backwards compatible with 3.0.0 (I've tested on my own units).

@garyopa - Your title is misleading and the mod is ridiculous. This has happened with my units and I use pins 1 and 10, so it's not isolated to 9 and 10 like the tweet and title reference. A simple power cycle fixes the issue. And I'll just say now, new rails will likely be a thing due to over-use, but this post is very misleading for regular users.

Shorting pin 10 for long periods of time is still not best thing, it was never designed to be anything more than quick press HOME button along with the other two buttons. --

But if you going to short pin 10 forever inside the Joycon it is best to do what the original tweet in first post did, using a small resister between pins 1 and 10 or 7 and 10.

Even tho pin 9 works, its officially not a ground, if you trace out the circuits in switch and joycon, its connected to SoC network of pins, and after a long while (in our internal tests, a month or two) of daily usage it can might cause damage, making the system behave weird.

So in end if you going to go the pin9 and 10 route, do it as quick jig, or added button attached to pins on the joycon, but if you going that length, you might as well solder it right and use the other pins and add the resister.

Of course bricking your boot0 (zero'ing the public keys) to cause AutoRCM, removes the whole idea of doing a permanent mod to your rails or joycon. -- But of course that means you stuck forever in launching payloads via the usb.

 

[Maximilious]

Shorting pin 10 for long periods of time is still not best thing, it was never designed to be anything more than quick press HOME button along with the other two buttons. --
But if you going to short pin 10 forever inside the Joycon it is best to do what the original tweet in first post did, using a small resister between pins 1 and 10 or 7 and 10.
Even tho pin 9 works, its officially not a ground, if you trace out the circuits in switch and joycon, its connected to SoC network of pins, and after a long while (in our internal tests, a month or two) of daily usage it can might cause damage, making the system behave weird.
So in end if you going to go the pin9 and 10 route, do it as quick jig, or added button attached to pins on the joycon, but if you going that length, you might as well solder it right and use the other pins and add the resister.
Of course bricking your boot0 (zero'ing the public keys) to cause AutoRCM, removes the whole idea of doing a permanent mod to your rails or joycon. -- But of course that means you stuck forever in launching payloads via the usb.

Thanks for the explanation. I still think the title should be re-worded though, it's more of a caveat than just outright "bad". As it stands now it's total clickbait like a lot of the other threads being made. Rail replacements are a thing and there is a very easy fix to the issue mentioned in the tweet which is a simple power cycle or re-sync of the right joycon.

As for weird behavior, what was happening in your testing? I'm sure it would be good for the community to know in case someone runs into it on their own, and can also deem if shorting pins 9 and 10 is truly "bad" practice or not.

 

[egatobaS]

Thanks for the explanation. I still think the title should be re-worded though, it's more of a caveat than just outright "bad". As it stands now it's total clickbait like a lot of the other threads being made. Rail replacements are a thing and there is a very easy fix to the issue mentioned in the tweet which is a simple power cycle or re-sync of the right joycon.

As for weird behavior, what was happening in your testing? I'm sure it would be good for the community to know in case someone runs into it on their own, and can also deem if shorting pins 9 and 10 is truly "bad" practice or not.

For a while now I had pins 9 and 10 shorted and noticed no issues what so ever but then I decided to update my joycons... BIG mistake. The right joycon will no longer connect to the console even while connected as the threads says and I have tried doing the power cycle of the joycon and console but nothing.

You explained that you can simple power cycle the joycon or re-sync it but this does not seem to work for me, any idea why and thanks for the info.

 

[TerryG]

Would it be possible in theory to buy a replacement joy con slider from china and use an alligator clip jumper wire to bridge pins 1 and 10 and have a oem jig

Put it inside a gutted joycon strap for an even more OEM look

 

[metaljay]

Put it inside a gutted joycon strap for an even more OEM look

View attachment 125755 View attachment 125756

Can you give some more information on this please? How did you do it?

 

[SkittleDash]

You know, I've bent my pin. Though I now use a jig. Had no problems with the bent pin. So I guess... I could use that as a back up if I lose my jig? lol

 

[Wierd_w]

While it would certainly be more expensive, I would very much like to see a simple pass-through "spacer" made of replacement "switch-side" rail, and joycon-side rail, with a nice slide switch on it.

EG, something you could dock to the side of the NX permanently, and then dock a joycon to. It just passes all the wires through except the needed ones, which it puts a convenient switch on.

 

[Maximilious]

You explained that you can simple power cycle the joycon or re-sync it but this does not seem to work for me, any idea why and thanks for the info.

It took me some time to get it, and I don't remember the exact steps I took to fix. I have two consoles so I think I resynced it to my second console first to see if it was an issue with the joycon (since they were purchased used), then synced again to the problem console and it worked. Perhaps you can force your console to "forget" about your right joycon and that will bring it back, but I'm not certain.

I do know this is the same issue though, since I plugged them into my 4.1.0 console and did a firmware update on them from System Settings, then performed my NAND backups through Hekate using pines 1 and 10 that same weekend and that's when I noticed the sync issue.

 

[TerryG]

Can you give some more information on this please? How did you do it?

I purchased a replacement rail off AliExpress and soldered a wire between the points where the ribbon cable connects to the board that match up the pins 1 and 10 on the actual connector. I then took the metal rail and plastic insert out of the strap. I glued the buttons, strap and lock mechanism in place, at this point the buttons, locking mechanism, and LED indicators are purely cosmetic.

I trimmed the hell out of the rail to get it to fit properly in the strap. Then I used masking tape to cover the end of the Switch, inserted the rail, put a few rows of hot glue inside the strap, and pressed it onto the rail.

 

[Trylk248]

You know what I did ? I have a Bionik charging pad for joycons and I use the joycons on that. (yes I have done this method) Anyway, I'm soon getting a Pro Controller

 

[guily6669]

Softmods tend to be generally safer, I'm not comfortable messing with pins, so yeah, not doing it.

Depends as a lot of consoles are not easy to unbrick with softmod while usually a modchip tends to help a lot in that department...

I'm glad is that with the switch we can just remove the nand and enters RCM and we can flash it again.

Just reed reed switch it

Why did you use pin 10+6?

6 is not just ground, it says "attach status" it says it's ground only when attached while not sleeping, but I think excluding those 2 statements it's 1.8V.

I would not use pin 10+6 my self...