Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

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ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[vulp_vibes]

to get back on the topic of internal installs for a bit, I've been playing around with an idea

 

[mattytrog]

Whats the idea chief?

 

[vulp_vibes]

Whats the idea chief?

glad you asked front facing dotstar RGB status LED

 

[mattytrog]

Very nice idea!

However... I think what I would do, is:

• Modify the aluminium chassis slightly, allowing yourself to solder / fix the DotStar LED directly above the LDR (light-dependent resistor) on the board.

Good idea!

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

 

[vulp_vibes]

I guess in my defense, I figured for a quick prototype that it would be easier to dremel plastic instead of aluminum I definitely want it mounted to the board in some way for a permanent install though, so I will likely play around with this idea

 

[mattytrog]

I guess in my defense, I figured for a quick prototype that it would be easier to dremel plastic instead of aluminum I definitely want it mounted to the board in some way for a permanent install though, so I will likely play around with this idea

No need for a defence, sir!

Its a good idea.

I just like the board to be all-as-one, to minimise the chances of pulled traces by those who come after us.

You could even move the photosensor up or down slightly, or mount it vertically. This would allow you the room you need

 

[acidcoolxxx]

Hi folks,

i have a Trinket mini flying around. Work this board too?

 

[vulp_vibes]

Hi folks,

i have a Trinket mini flying around. Work this board too?

this product? if so, no; this method is only compatible with boards that utilize the Atmel SAMD21 microcontroller.

 

[vulp_vibes]

lot of people have a modchip by now, but how many really have a switch modchip?

wanted to make a small SAMD21 board for my own installs, but once I rounded the corners I knew I had to go with this design

edit: went ahead and finished it all up tonight; maybe some small changes later but it should be good to go

 

[gamesquest1]

im actually thinking you could design a nice little board with quick solder pads that slots perfectly just behind the usb port, I haven't checked all the points for 3v but I saw a few reading at 3.7 nearby, not sure what the tolerances are on the trinket or if you could simply drop the voltage down slightly on the board, but I could imagine something similar to the xenogc should be possible, something a little like this


ok just looked at a couple of motherboards and seen the -10 revision has slightly different placements than -01so added a few more cutouts so it would work for both board revisions

 

[vulp_vibes]

huh, yeah, I hadn't considered just how many of the points for a basic autorcm install are clustered right there might have to think about that one after this project

 

[vulp_vibes]

alright, I really polished the hell out of this thing now it's off to oshpark before I change my mind

 

[vulp_vibes]

@mattytrog absolutely kicking myself for not just dremeling the housing first; a fine bit can create a trench that gives the LED the headroom necessary to seat properly when mounted vertically on the motherboard additionally, one of the pins on the light sensor is on the 3.3V line, so now only the two input lines for the dotstar need to be run back to the trinket

 

[mattytrog]

@mattytrog absolutely kicking myself for not just dremeling the housing first; a fine bit can create a trench that gives the LED the headroom necessary to seat properly when mounted vertically on the motherboard additionally, one of the pins on the light sensor is on the 3.3V line, so now only the two input lines for the dotstar need to be run back to the trinket

Wooo!!! And if you do dremel the edge, the light sensor function won`t be impaired, as the dotstar is blocking the gap

 

[pcwizard7]

Does anyone know where to find pre-made chips / someone who could make one? are there any notable differences between the different chips?

thanks

 

[CompSciOrBust]

I have been using a SwitchMe for over a year and it has worked fine but a few weeks ago my switch went flat and now it won't charge. I'm using the old 4 wire method + the accidental rcm strap. If I plug the switch in to power the led on the chip lights up but trying to run off of battery does nothing and the switch won't boot in to rcm mode. Do you know why this might be?

 

[shadowLord05139]

Hi guys I've installed this mod but am having issues it's not loading payloads when it puts the switch into rcm mode I've attached a pic below #Mattytrog please help

 

[radialblur]

Question relating to wire used, I've read the FAQ and seen the suggestions, can anyone comment if "30 Gauge Silicone Wire" is OK please? Specifically this stuff: B077GQQXRY on Amazon UK. (sorry can't post a link, forum thinks its spam)

I know the OP mentioned getting Kynar covered, however I'm finding it difficult to source, and while I'm locked down I'd quite like to get the trinket in to my Switch.

Many thanks.

 

[SirFranko]

Question relating to wire used, I've read the FAQ and seen the suggestions, can anyone comment if "30 Gauge Silicone Wire" is OK please? Specifically this stuff: B077GQQXRY on Amazon UK. (sorry can't post a link, forum thinks its spam)

I know the OP mentioned getting Kynar covered, however I'm finding it difficult to source, and while I'm locked down I'd quite like to get the trinket in to my Switch.

Many thanks.

Looking at the wire its

"30 AWG silicone stranded wire has 11 strands 0.08 mm tinned copper wire"

Solid core would be my recommendation, much easier and cleaner to work with.

 

[Shadow_The_Hedgehog82]

Has anyone had issue using 0.1mm magnet wire I've had my trinket installed in the newer configuration for quite a while but yesterday it just stopped working and I had to reinstall it, The wires were all still attached can they burn out and stop working or something?