Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Cosmic_Link]

Hi Matt,

Using method 3, I have completely drained the battery (obviously). Can you advise the best way to get some charge back into this so I can start using it again? Otherwise I'll just end up replacing the battery. lol

Thanks mate.

 

[mattytrog]

Hi Matt,

Using method 3, I have completely drained the battery (obviously). Can you advise the best way to get some charge back into this so I can start using it again? Otherwise I'll just end up replacing the battery. lol

Thanks mate.

Right... Ensure it is completely off... I know this may seem obvious as its bloody flat. But it may be in RCM.
Hold down power for 12 seconds...
Put console in dock - leave for an hour
Connect to PC and attempt power-on. Should go into RCM
Send a payload - Hekate / SXOS or whatever... Let it sit on the payload screen. Leave it on this screen.
Disconnect from PC...
Place back in dock. Leave for further half hour - Attempt to boot
Should boot with maybe 3% battery. Get it back on dock again and leave until charged.

 

[djvj]

OK... Now everything is installed correctly...

In the chainloader download, there is a 0 folder. It is zipped and needs extracting.

Look at this graphic... Zoom in if necessary

Thanks mattytrog. I think I found my problem, the SD card is no longer being recognized in my PC. The notification doesn't even show up that I inserted it. This thing is brand new too...ugh. I'm going to have to find another to test for now. I would have thought the switch would have told me no SD card or something during boot (the black screen with red text error).

 

[djvj]

Ok borrowed my son's sd card to test. I have the 0 folder on there with hekate_ctcaer_4.2.bin renamed to start.bin inside. When I boot the switch, still goes to normal home screen. I double press reset button and get the led flashes as described before. To get the rebug drive to show in windows I have to press that button about 10 times fast until it takes. But still, something isn't working, it's not launching the start.bin. It boots normal no matter what I put as the start.bin on launch.

Do I have to trigger RCM again somehow to set autorcm so the payload gets loaded from the 0 folder?

 

[metaljay]

Matty have you been tweaking method 2 any further?

 

[mattytrog]

Ok borrowed my son's sd card to test. I have the 0 folder on there with hekate_ctcaer_4.2.bin renamed to start.bin inside. When I boot the switch, still goes to normal home screen. I double press reset button and get the led flashes as described before. To get the rebug drive to show in windows I have to press that button about 10 times fast until it takes. But still, something isn't working, it's not launching the start.bin. It boots normal no matter what I put as the start.bin on launch.

Do I have to trigger RCM again somehow to set autorcm so the payload gets loaded from the 0 folder?

Exactly right. You need to go into RCM to enable autoRCM. The irony!

Do that then I think you are sorted.

@metaljay Not had chance yet dude. It is done as far as it was before with the eMMC control. But it is unsafe as far as I`m concerned. Will work on putting some failsafes in there. Might have a play tonight when lad gone to bed. May even get round to writing it up and publishing it too...

 

[popy]

Charging when powered off?

What exactly is it doing?



Very welcome. Not just me, lots of contributers done their bit too

Glad it is working for you. Feedback good or bad means a lot to me

Yes, when the console is switched off and then connected to power via USB-C. The trinket power led goes on and also the white led (waiting for rcm). In this state, it seems to do nothing. After 5 min it charged ~1% so it is charging, but slowly.

Also it doesn't react to power button.
Just disconnecting USB-C power & pressing the power button 10sec switches it off. Then it could boot normally to sx os (payload injection).

Here are my questions :

Is this a normal behaviour?
Is my payload on the trinket too old?
Should there n be some charging osd?

Thx pOpY

Gesendet von meinem LG-H815 mit Tapatalk

 

[mattytrog]

Yes, when the console is switched off and then connected to power via USB-C. The trinket power led goes on and also the white led (waiting for rcm). In this state, it seems to do nothing. After 5 min it charged ~1% so it is charging, but slowly.

Also it doesn't react to power button.
Just disconnecting USB-C power & pressing the power button 10sec switches it off. Then it could boot normally to sx os (payload injection).

Here are my questions :

Is this a normal behaviour?
Is my payload on the trinket too old?
Should there n be some charging osd?

Thx pOpY

Gesendet von meinem LG-H815 mit Tapatalk

Update your UF2 file on your chip.

Also, how is it installed? Old method 1?

 

[wiiando]

May attempt method 2 tomorrow, the vol+ for method 3 does it damage the actual board? As when i did try it seems to have made my vol+ - and power needing a firm press, not sure if it's linked but nothing is damaged.

 

[popy]

Update your UF2 file on your chip.

Also, how is it installed? Old method 1?

Hi Matt,

I'll think its new method 1 (4 wires) but will check again.
Was on old method 1 and changed it a month ago (just vcc pin), see here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ide-files-support.508068/page-43#post-8198931

Will update the UF2 but now i am a bit confused because now there is also the chainloader.
Which UF2 is prefered fo SX OS? (binarys from this thread OP or from chainloader thread)

thx a lot
pOpY

 

[mattytrog]

Hi Matt,

I'll think its new method 1 (4 wires) but will check again.
Was on old method 1 and changed it a month ago (just vcc pin), see here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ide-files-support.508068/page-43#post-8198931

Will update the UF2 but now i am a bit confused because now there is also the chainloader.
Which UF2 is prefered fo SX OS? (binarys from this thread OP or from chainloader thread)

thx a lot
pOpY

The whole point is just to use the UF2. And place your desired payload (hekate / atmosphere / sxos) on SD and it starts with no converting or anything

 

[popy]

The whole point is just to use the UF2. And place your desired payload (hekate / atmosphere / sxos) on SD and it starts with no converting or anything

ok thx, will try latest chainloader later.

 

[wiiando]

So I got round to testing the method 2 posted here https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ide-files-support.508068/page-81#post-8334320 and the latest hekate 4.2 on the OP, both do the same thing, basically if you plug the battery in the switch auto turns on, shutdown from with horizon, then try to vol+ and power just results in a black screen, with the trinket not doing anything until about 10 seconds later, but by this point assuming it's too late to send, hangs there until you hold power or unplug battery.

If i reboot within horizon and hold vol+ it boots, but guessing this is because the trinket already has power

@mattytrog

 

[mattytrog]

So I got round to testing the method 2 posted here https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ide-files-support.508068/page-81#post-8334320 and the latest hekate 4.2 on the OP, both do the same thing, basically if you plug the battery in the switch auto turns on, shutdown from with horizon, then try to vol+ and power just results in a black screen, with the trinket not doing anything until about 10 seconds later, but by this point assuming it's too late to send, hangs there until you hold power or unplug battery.

If i reboot within horizon and hold vol+ it boots, but guessing this is because the trinket already has power

@mattytrog

OK young man thanks for letting me know.

Time for method 2 to get replaced...

 

[dekuleon]

Sadly, it seems I ruined my resistor using the 6 wire method with SwitchMe... my power button doesnt work anymore, and I didnt finish the installation when I saw no solder under the resistor.

I have a friend who fixes motherboards and he told me he can replace that resistor... I'm prayin he can do it... its damn small!!!!!!!!

 

[wiiando]

Sadly, it seems I ruined my resistor using the 6 wire method with SwitchMe... my power button doesnt work anymore, and I didnt finish the installation when I saw no solder under the resistor.

I have a friend who fixes motherboards and he told me he can replace that resistor... I'm prayin he can do it... its damn small!!!!!!!!

Flux is your friend for that part IMO, little flux just before you come to solder it with a tinned wire

 

[mattytrog]

Sadly, it seems I ruined my resistor using the 6 wire method with SwitchMe... my power button doesnt work anymore, and I didnt finish the installation when I saw no solder under the resistor.

I have a friend who fixes motherboards and he told me he can replace that resistor... I'm prayin he can do it... its damn small!!!!!!!!

0201 150R 50mW MLCC...

 

[popy]

The whole point is just to use the UF2. And place your desired payload (hekate / atmosphere / sxos) on SD and it starts with no converting or anything

Updated my chip to the new chainloader and booting sx os payload (in \0\ folder works). Thanks for this.
Sadly, it does'nt fix the "black screen" when charging in off state.
Also i checked, i have new method 1 (4 wire) install.

So here is what's the switch is behaving:

• switch is booted into sx os
• power off switch (-> no led on trinket)
• connect original charger
• trinket green power led is lit & red is blinking slowly
• nothing is displayed
• it is charging in this state

When i want to boot up the switch i have to press the power switch for 10 seconds to power it completly down and then a single press on power to boot it up in sx os.

Is this behaviour normal?
Should'nt there be an charging OSD?

Thanks a lot
pOpY

 

[mattytrog]

Updated my chip to the new chainloader and booting sx os payload (in \0\ folder works). Thanks for this.
Sadly, it does'nt fix the "black screen" when charging in off state.
Also i checked, i have new method 1 (4 wire) install.

So here is what's the switch is behaving:

• switch is booted into sx os
• power off switch (-> no led on trinket)
• connect original charger
• trinket green power led is lit & red is blinking slowly
• nothing is displayed
• it is charging in this state

When i want to boot up the switch i have to press the power switch for 10 seconds to power it completly down and then a single press on power to boot it up in sx os.

Is this behaviour normal?
Should'nt there be an charging OSD?

Thanks a lot
pOpY

That is the only caveat of the whole modchip procedure. In the op, there is an FAQ. This is covered there.

Basically, when switch is switched off and you plug anything in to USB (excluding the dock) the switch will enter RCM as whatever plugs into the USB port takes priority over the trinket.

This results in RCM.

If you experience this, just disconnect from USB and press reset on trinket. As if by magic, it will boot.

This has been covered rather extensively



EDIT... Looks like it has been removed from OP somehow. I will correct this.

 

[popy]

That is the only caveat of the whole modchip procedure. In the op, there is an FAQ. This is covered there.

Basically, when switch is switched off and you plug anything in to USB (excluding the dock) the switch will enter RCM as whatever plugs into the USB port takes priority over the trinket.

This results in RCM.

If you experience this, just disconnect from USB and press reset on trinket. As if by magic, it will boot.

This has been covered rather extensively



EDIT... Looks like it has been removed from OP somehow. I will correct this.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Now it's clear to me. It's no problem, just good to know.

Keep up the good work.
pOpY

Gesendet von meinem LG-H815 mit Tapatalk

 

[mattytrog]

METHOD 2 @metaljay maybe?

Right... Anyone feeling brave?

I`ve modified the bootloader for the trinket.

Can upload but make sure you have openocd set up to flash the original back if you like after as entering bootloader mode is no longer possible (double-press reset / to install UF2 is now disabled)

So I recommend a chainloader. But the straps pull low straight away now. Just want to confirm it is fast enough for RCM. Any takers?

In fact, sod it.

Below is a BIN file...

This is the drill...

Method 3 TRINKET users only please! They are the best candidates...

This involves changing your Trinket power supply point to the one on the eMMC NAND or capacitor (as in method 1).

Flash the attached BIN file with your openOCD rig (SWDIO) - I`ve done that so you can get back to the original Trinket bootloader. If I upload the bootloader update UF2, people will be stuck with this experiment. I know this is a dick move by me but I`m excluding standard UF2 users incase this is not successful.

No damage can come to your console from this... Worse case is you have to flash the original Trinket bootloader back and your old UF2 after that.

Once you have flashed it, SWITCHBOOT will open. Put your payload launcher UF2 (from this thread or the chainloader thread).

The straps SHOULD pull low fast enough to boot to boot RCM.

I have a UF2, but if for whatever reason you need to change it, you MUST USE OPENOCD as double-press is now disabled.

If this works, then we have cracked it... Method 3 with no battery drain. Dual-boot or whatever as you like WITHOUT autoRCM.

Someone try it.