Notice: I am not receiving notifications for this thread. I didn`t realise people were still posting in it.

Please please accept my apologies if I haven`t replied to tags etc... I have no idea what is happening. I`m subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. Please inbox me if possible. Or tag me in another thread.

Its amazing that people are still checking all of this out. I thank you for all of the help and support I have received in this thread over this year.

Cheers. Matty.


A video showing a modchip in action. Thank you once again to @metaljay for providing this. This is what you can achieve by fitting a chip!

Section 1. Gather your software.

Get your chip software from THIS THREAD.
Follow the flashing instructions there...

Section 2. Removing USB port and unneeded LEDs. (Adafruit chips only)

• Next, we need to remove the USB port from the modchip. I recommend a heatgun or a rework station. Heat up until the USB port just lifts off the modchip.

• Do the same for the LED just to the right of the USB port.

See picture:

You are now ready to fit your device. Proceed to Fitting section.

Section 3. Fitting modchip to your Switch.
New Universal Method. All SAMD-based internal chips. If your chip is not supported and you cannot work it out, PM me.

Trinket M0.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Rebug SwitchME M0. Use Trinket files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
RCMX86 - Internal modchip version.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Gemma M0. Use Gemma files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
ItsyBitsy M0 Express. Use ItsyBitsy files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

==================================================
Feather M0 Express. Use Feather files.
Solder as laid out in the following picture

BUILD YOUR OWN FROM A QFP ATSAMD21E18. Trinket equivalent pins.
Flash Trinket bootloader using OpenOCD via serial pins SWDIO / SWDCLK. Fit a reset switch somewhere... Or going to power / wake (aka method 2). If building for external use, it is good practice to fit a third capacitor between 3V & GND. This is deliberately vague and ambigious, as this needs research and you need to know what you are doing.

Link for setting the Pi up with OpenOCD: HERE
Raspberry Pi OpenOCD image in downloads section or HERE

Alternative Solder Points

Credit to @consolex for original pic. I`ve added alternative points to solder to:

Credit to @pyorin for this much tidier version showing the same info as the above one!

Replacement Parts List

Spoiler: Parts

Ok... So you have damaged your switch soldering your chip in. Not to worry.

First things first, DO NOT BRIDGE THE CONTACTS HOPING TO REVIVE YOUR SWITCH. With resistors, you may possibly get away with this, but with the capacitors listed below, if you jump these points, you will make a nice short-circuit to the PMIC and / or the M92T36, killing them instantly. Don`t do it.

OK... I`ll list these parts with METHOD 2 & 3 TRINKET PIN NUMBERS and the values of the components they solder to.

TRINKET 3V (POWER SUPPLY) - 2.2uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 2 (POWER ON RESET - goes to pin 5 on M92T36)- 4.7uF 0402 size MLCC capacitor. Voltage unimportant as long as it is over 6.3v
TRINKET PIN 0 (VOL+) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW
TRINKET RESET (SWITCH POWER BUTTON) - 150R (150 ohms) 0201 Thick Film resistor. 50mW

I recommend RS components.

FAQ

Q - How do I boot the switch into APX (RCM) mode?

A - You need to short out pin 10 on the right joycon rail to GND with a jig or modded joycon or paperclip (not recommended... Buy a jig you cheap-ass gyppo). Once shorted out, hold down vol+ and power. The switch screen should be off... Plug into your PC and it should recognise a APX device. Well done. You are in RCM.

Q - What glue should I use?
A - Only glue if necessary! Ideally if your soldering is of sufficient quality and your wire is thin enough, you don`t need glue. I use a bit because I am OCD. Anyway, use Epoxy. It`s what I use. Gives you some working time, is solid. Superglue makes a mess DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. The only thing super about it is how it melts things. Epoxy won`t stick to the shield long-term, so bear that in mind. Pure Acetone will remove epoxy. Acetone tends to remove / melt anything to be warned. CHECK YOUR GLUE WON`T GO CONDUCTIVE OVER TIME - LOOKING AT YOU SCAMSUNG! The combination of heat cycles and absorbing of moisture can turn adhesive into a high-impedance connection!

Q - What size wire should I use?
A - I use AWG40 magnet wire or AWG30 Kynar. AWG40 goes onto components easier... And if you snap it, chances are the wire will snap and not the trace / component.
A2 - You can also use AWG30. I recommend Kynar wrapping wire but any will do. Looks nice, good resistance to elements, tidy. Nothing thicker than AWG30. You are just causing yourself more headaches. Trust me.

Q - Is AWG40 thick enough?
A - Yes. AWG40 is good for around 90mA.

Q - which methods do you recommend?
A - Connect all the straps...

Q - how do you recommend to set it up?
A - Fusee Suite. Search for Fusee Suite or go to link at top of this OP.

Q - My switch is flat and won't turn on.
A - Have you got the charger connected? Disconnect it or your switch won't boot! Boot to a payload (SX loader/Hekate), reconnect charger and leave on the payload menu and charge. Leave for 15 minutes and switch will start normally. It will continue charging one booted.

Disclaimer:
You have only yourself to blame. This voids warranty. This may or may not get you banned from online services. If it does, you got yourself banned. I`m not responsible if you kill your switch / your first-born with any of this in this post. I`m not infalliable. I`m partly senile. Do your own research. Kids, get bill payers permission before you attempt even using a screwdriver.
NUTSHELL: Don`t come having a go at me because you fooked your £300 console up. I`ll do my best to help you though if you do, Just don`t blame me.

Credits to Quantum-Cross, Atlas44, @Ninoh-FOX , @jcrorxp , @tecfreak, @mooglazer, @subcon959, @64Dp128k, @mikeleuskaldunak, @M-O-B, CTCaer, @evilsperm, @consolex and everyone else for valuable input.

IF YOU REQUIRE SUPPORT, IF YOUR CONSOLE ISN`T WORKING CORRECTLY... PLEASE POST A HIGH RESOLUTION PICTURE OF YOUR INSTALL. You might think it isn`t your soldering, but in all cases with the new methods, it is bad soldering. So, please post a picture.

A BRIEF WARNING - PLEASE READ

Spoiler: READ THIS

THIS MOD IS NOT FOR THE FEINT OF HEART. WE ARE SOLDERING TO TRACES AND COMPONENTS ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BOARD TO SAVE HAVING TO REMOVE THE BOARD AND SOLDER TO TESTPOINTS. IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING, OR THINK YOU ARE GOING TO STRUGGLE, PLEASE PLEASE SOLDER TO THE TEST POINTS NOTED IN THIS AND OTHER THREADS (YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD). DOUBLE - TRIPLE CHECK EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!
Good soldering skills are needed!
A magnifying glass is needed!
Good soldering iron needed - ideally with a 0.3 conical tip. No more than 30w!
SECURE YOUR WIRES PRIOR TO SOLDERING. Stick them down with double-sided tape.
Only use glue if you need to and glue wires after soldering. Don`t glue the solder to the component!
Put the tiniest amount of glue on the PCB mask only. Never on components. Use a cocktail stick for more glue control!!!
Take a look at alternative solder points to get you out of the sh*t if you do rip something off the board
If you aren`t the best at soldering, then think very carefully about connecting to pin 6 capacitor (the one in these new methods). If you rip this pad, you WILL NEED TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD and run from a testpoint.

 

[Deleted User]

Well done.

But please please shorten those wires A LOT! The heatpipe gets very hot.
Please reroute your cables correctly

Yeaa they are long since I wanted to make sure things where working properly. Once I figure out how to get my SD card set up properly and can assure everything I plan on shorting them!

Those RX and TX pins where a bitch lol

 

[mattytrog]

Yeaa they are long since I wanted to make sure things where working properly. Once I figure out how to get my SD card set up properly and can assure everything I plan on shorting them!

Those RX and TX pins where a bitch lol

SD card?

Try this to start with...
https://github.com/tumGER/SDFilesSwitch/releases/download/v9.0.4/SDFilesV904.zip

 

[Deleted User]

SD card?

Try this to start with...
https://github.com/tumGER/SDFilesSwitch/releases/download/v9.0.4/SDFilesV904.zip

Ill try. When I select launch, it tells me "No main configuration found"

 

[mattytrog]

Ill try. When I select launch, it tells me "No main configuration found"

Thats right... You need to sort your SD card out with the above link first.

 

[Deleted User]

Thats right... You need to sort your SD card out with the above link first.

Yup! Working on that now Just wanted to clarify since you had a question mark in there.

 

[djvj]

Ok...



OK... We seem to be struggling with this. It`s OK... It is different from other modchips you may have used.

Follow this... Leave SD card out of machine

1) Boot up TegraRCMsmash
2) Get ready to send Hekate
3) Get into RCM
4) Send Hekate. This should take you to the Hekate menu
5) Select launch with power buttons... You will get an error about SD card missing and booting default configuration.
6) Switch should boot normally
7) Once on home screen of switch, disconnect from USB
8) Press reset on modchip/switchme/trinket TWICE!!! I forget which you are using.
9) Plug into your PC. REBUGBOOT/ TRINKETBOOT should pop up
10) You will see 3 files in there: CURRENT.UF2, INDEX.HTM & INFO_UF2.TXT
11) If you don`t see the above in step 10, then keep trying until you do. Keep the drive open. No need to delete anything
12) Download THIS
13) Unzip.
14) Drag the file that is called S2_Chainloader (ends in UF2) to the REBUGBOOT / TRINKETBOOT drive
15) Insert SD card into PC. In the file you have downloaded, you will find a 0.zip file
16) Extract this
17) Put the new extracted 0 folder on to your memory card
18) Download hekate.bin from the hekate thread. Place hekate.bin INSIDE the 0 folder.
19) Rename hekate.bin to start.bin
20) Power off switch with power button, insert SD card and try to boot.

Thanks so much for the detail! Please watch this though, because we keep going in circles. I can't get to the home screen at all:

 

[mattytrog]

Thanks so much for the detail! Please watch this though, because we keep going in circles. I can't get to the home screen at all:

OK... Now thats a problem.

1) Check your eMMC is correctly plugged back in. If it is, continue...
2) Take some high resolution photos of everything you have done, upload somewhere and post me the links please so I can take a look
3) Unclip eMMC and take a photo of that where you have fitted the wire. Also, let me take a look at the connector on eMMC and board. Take clear photos as detailed as possible.

 

[mattytrog]

@Canna

Its alive!!!

That USB port doesnt seem too clever though.

Its working, but it needs swapping after all the removal and refitting of it!

New one ordered...

 

[Canna]

@Canna

Its alive!!!

That USB port doesnt seem too clever though.

Its working, but it needs swapping after all the removal and refitting of it!

New one ordered...

Damn matt that's great, good work buddy im really chuffed..
another port you recommend sounds good thank you very much cleverman

 

[mattytrog]

Damn matt that's great, good work buddy im really chuffed..
another port you recommend sounds good thank you very much cleverman

Fkin nightmare its been. Just the waiting game for parts. However, got a stock of the buggers now

Problems fixed:

• BQ24193 replaced
• Damaged passsive components around it (caps & a 10k resistor).
• Repaired toasted trace from BQ24193
  
• Short next to the USB port - These are multi-layered boards and removing USB ports without it being quite hot enough takes its toll... Or at least it did on one of the sub-layers right next to the port
• NAND rebuilt due to corrupted GPT & Prodinfo
• Replaced broken FPC connector for left joycon (my fault that was)

To do:

• Fit another replacement port as being heated takes its toll too after a while. It works but is wobbly and I`m not happy with it.

 

[djvj]

OK... Now thats a problem.

1) Check your eMMC is correctly plugged back in. If it is, continue...
2) Take some high resolution photos of everything you have done, upload somewhere and post me the links please so I can take a look
3) Unclip eMMC and take a photo of that where you have fitted the wire. Also, let me take a look at the connector on eMMC and board. Take clear photos as detailed as possible.

I resoldered the connections on the eMMC and ground, and that may have helped. The drive now shows up in windows, which it never did before.

My battery was drained fully and I was at 100% when I went to sleep last night and haven't touched it since. I thought that wasn't a symptom of method 1?

I have to head to work but letting the switch charge and will test when I get back.

 

[djvj]

matty, good news, that was it. I got through all 20 of your steps just fine. Thank you!

On step 20, I powered on the switch and it went straight to the home screen. It didn't boot to hekate. I have the Switchme and used the S2 uf2 file like you said. I renamed this file to start.bin as well: hekate_ctcaer_4.2.bin

 

[mattytrog]

matty, good news, that was it. I got through all 20 of your steps just fine. Thank you!

On step 20, I powered on the switch and it went straight to the home screen. It didn't boot to hekate. I have the Switchme and used the S2 uf2 file like you said. I renamed this file to start.bin as well: hekate_ctcaer_4.2.bin

Now... You can enable autoRCM and thats it.

 

[mattytrog]

Is this worth publishing a guide?

Trinket boot or any modchip from dock.

Numerous ways of doing it. Saves opening the switch and voiding warranty I guess...

 

[metaljay]

Wow that’s impressive.
I’d always prefer to stick to soldered version so don’t have to be carrying around anything, but I think ALOT of people will value having a solderless version for such a cheap cost of a trinket

 

[popy]

Hey guys, hope it's not asked before.
Can't search with Tapatalk and reading all the posts with smartphone is a little bit time consuming [emoji6]

Using trinket and method 1 (4 wire) with older sx os payload (UF2). All is working except of charging the switch when powered off.
It's just do nothing.

Is this supported with the trinket chip and any method, payload (UF2) combination?

Thx

Gesendet von meinem LG-H815 mit Tapatalk

 

[IAmBeave]

Finally found the time tonight to solder in the rebug board. It works like a charm. Thank you mattytrog for your thread and time, plus your s2 chainloader.

 

[mattytrog]

Hey guys, hope it's not asked before.
Can't search with Tapatalk and reading all the posts with smartphone is a little bit time consuming

Using trinket and method 1 (4 wire) with older sx os payload (UF2). All is working except of charging the switch when powered off.
It's just do nothing.

Is this supported with the trinket chip and any method, payload (UF2) combination?

Thx

Gesendet von meinem LG-H815 mit Tapatalk

Charging when powered off?

What exactly is it doing?

Finally found the time tonight to solder in the rebug board. It works like a charm. Thank you mattytrog for your thread and time, plus your s2 chainloader.

Very welcome. Not just me, lots of contributers done their bit too

Glad it is working for you. Feedback good or bad means a lot to me

 

[djvj]

So I'm trying to get back into RCM mode and back to hekate menu to enable autoRCM now that the SwitchMe is installed right and the S2 chainloader was flashed to the mod.

I read in the mod's readme, just double press the button after it's booted, but nothing happens when I do that... What happens is the LED goes solid red for a second, then 8 short red flashes.

Is there a specific scenario I need to be in, like booted and no USB connected, or no SD card, or not booted and USB?

 

[mattytrog]

So I'm trying to get back into RCM mode and back to hekate menu to enable autoRCM now that the SwitchMe is installed right and the S2 chainloader was flashed to the mod.

I read in the mod's readme, just double press the button after it's booted, but nothing happens when I do that... What happens is the LED goes solid red for a second, then 8 short red flashes.

Is there a specific scenario I need to be in, like booted and no USB connected, or no SD card, or not booted and USB?

OK... Now everything is installed correctly...

In the chainloader download, there is a 0 folder. It is zipped and needs extracting.

Look at this graphic... Zoom in if necessary