Sounds like you need a new installer or get her to read the guide fully. Bottom line, there's no way to know until qualified eyes inspect the inside of the system. This ping-pong-guessing-game-thing going on here is getting pretty ridiculous...
Picofly AIO Thread
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I don't think you have to but you could remove it if you want to.
How can i check if i have the right mosfets(aka test it with multimeter, not refering to the name) ? Pls help ;-; i think i got scammed. I have very little knowledge about the right mosfet.
Do you guys see anything unusual with this install? I get error ==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, checkmosfet) , and a black screen (the backlight lights up for 1 second). Also i have checked for loose connections. I get continuity from pico to mosfet, and continuity from caps to mosfet
Do you guys see anything unusual with this install? I get error ==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, checkmosfet) , and a black screen (the backlight lights up for 1 second). Also i have checked for loose connections. I get continuity from pico to mosfet, and continuity from caps to mosfet
Last edited by Crung,
such thin mosfet wiring cannot provide reliable glitch current. replace them with thicker ones
HM. wierd thing is i ve done it before ,same setup and it was ok,it worked. I use these wires for everything.
Do you refer to the mosfet to cap wires, or mosfet to picofly wires? Or all of them?
They are 0.1mm wires. What size do you suggest?
Stupid question,i dont have another wires right now,will it work if i put 2x0.1 mm wires like in picture? To imitate i bigger wire?
Also i had a mosfet i was using before so i did some continuity tests? Dont know if they are worth anything. They seem to be identical on the layout. When i test source and drain in continuity, on old (known good) mosfet i get 447, and on new i get 577. I dont know if this means anything. I am very stupid about this subject
Last edited by Crung,
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try without the 0.1mm wire like thisHM. wierd thing is i ve done it before ,same setup and it was ok,it worked. I use these wires for everything.
Do you refer to the mosfet to cap wires, or mosfet to picofly wires? Or all of them?
They are 0.1mm wires. What size do you suggest?
Stupid question,i dont have another wires right now,will it work if i put 2x0.1 mm wires like in picture? To imitate i bigger wire?
View attachment 394996
Also i had a mosfet i was using before so i did some continuity tests? Dont know if they are worth anything. They seem to be identical on the layout. When i test source and drain in continuity, on old (known good) mosfet i get 447, and on new i get 577. I dont know if this means anything. I am very stupid about this subject
source
Attachments
ok i will give it a try,thank you
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Well i ve just been trying to solder this god damn mosfet for the past 3 hours. Tryed the version where you just brute solder the mosfet to the cap,that did not work because solder just tends to get together in balls if you use flux, and if you dont use flux good luck soldering anything. They probably used a wire as core for that path of solder. Tryed that but failed bcs god knows why i either dont use good flux, good solder, or the right temp for this. So that s that. Then i tryed grouping 2x 01 mm wires. Spent 1h trying to solder the source and drain, I even named the wires. Drain was lil Timmy, and source was lil Billy. They even have a story behind. Anyways, that obviously failed in the end (the soldering part) because why would it work .
Any suggestions to ease my suffering?
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I found an old known good mosfet (before i bought this new shit that im getting errors with). It works PERFECTLY WITH THE OLD MOSFET. (the good ones were stolen from V2 flexes)
This is the new problematic mosfet.Garbage. I can only differentiate it by multimeter giving 570 value between source and drain, where the good one gives 470. It was advertised as with the same name that is recommended in the picofly document.
Why did it not work? Is the resistance too big and the current cant pass?
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What do you guys think of these wires that i ended up using? Are they ok?
I tested and it works with the good mosfets
Last edited by Crung,
Only 15 sold for that AliE seller, I'd say bad seller. Here's what I use:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKE2PYq
Also, lower iron temps can help with solder 'welding'\'blob'ing but my 32awg wire works fine instead.
Another day,another problem. Hey guys its me,ya boy Crung, we re gonna be friends because aparently i f**k up all of my installs recently somehow.
So i have this V1 right? Flex on cpu, 0.1 enammeled ,all the good stuff.
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)
I made sure i soldered the right picofly point to cmd.
Resoldered resistor on picofly, resoldered wire to resistor, resoldered cmd point, then i tryed the cmd point on emmc.+Tested with multimeter from picofly to cmd on board/emmc, from cmd on board/emmc to the end of the resisor = all values are normal,aka continuity and if tested from pico, i get the resistor value wich is normal.
The cpu flex had insulation on caps so no way it was shorting.
Wich got me sh*tt*ng my pants "wtf did i just somehow killed this cpu" ?
Took the chip out and all the wiring, console works as expected.
Like...This is so disgusting.. So turns out the picofly chip legs bridged (or maybe they were bridged from factory since i doubt that i applyed THAT much heat to the board) :| Can you guess what those legs are responsible for? You guessed it. Pin 28 and 27 aka CMD with clk. Brah.
I was really considering leaving the modding community since i was doubting myself about not beeing competent enough to do this stuff anymore. But i guess i still got it?
Sorry for spamming the forum with posts lately but i like to think that these posts will help future persons attempting to mod when they will be in same situation as me.
So i have this V1 right? Flex on cpu, 0.1 enammeled ,all the good stuff.
*== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)
I made sure i soldered the right picofly point to cmd.
Resoldered resistor on picofly, resoldered wire to resistor, resoldered cmd point, then i tryed the cmd point on emmc.+Tested with multimeter from picofly to cmd on board/emmc, from cmd on board/emmc to the end of the resisor = all values are normal,aka continuity and if tested from pico, i get the resistor value wich is normal.
The cpu flex had insulation on caps so no way it was shorting.
Wich got me sh*tt*ng my pants "wtf did i just somehow killed this cpu" ?
Took the chip out and all the wiring, console works as expected.
Post automatically merged:
Like...This is so disgusting.. So turns out the picofly chip legs bridged (or maybe they were bridged from factory since i doubt that i applyed THAT much heat to the board) :| Can you guess what those legs are responsible for? You guessed it. Pin 28 and 27 aka CMD with clk. Brah.
I was really considering leaving the modding community since i was doubting myself about not beeing competent enough to do this stuff anymore. But i guess i still got it?
Sorry for spamming the forum with posts lately but i like to think that these posts will help future persons attempting to mod when they will be in same situation as me.
Last edited by Crung,
Update:
Did a reflow on the emmc and the short on the cmd resistor went away. The pico glitches successfully. However, I'm still getting a black screen. I noticed the 47k resistor next to the cmd resistor was shorting from one side. So ended up replacing that. Funny thing is, removing the resistor and checking the bare pads still gives me a short from that same pad. Put on a new 47k resistor and still black screen. I'm not sure what it could be. Maybe the emmc is corrupt? Is it worth a reball? But the pico glitches....any ideas anyone? Nand is SKhynix. Surprise Surprise.
Also he did say the battery won't charge 50%. Weird one.
Last edited by Takezo-San,
when I assemble the rp2040-zero at PicoFly I perform a visual inspection before and after desoldering the ports and other components. and I found some factory surprises.
Looks as though there are some clones being made.
I took the below screenshot from an AliExpress review.
(clone on the left, original on the right)
I've got two of these clones and I suspect the RP2040 chip is an original part but the board and smaller components are cloned.
In my case I get the same results as other reviewers on AliE.. everything works except the LED so good luck diagnosing any issues.
I've already used two successfully on Switch Lites.
Attachments
Yup, I got the originals with my first order from a store, and then reordered more. Those turned out to be clones. I didn't look at the product page and just went through my history and added them to the cart again. LED doesn't work when it's supposed to glitch. If it's installed right you don't have to worry, but then you can't troubleshoot if there's an error. Another user pointed out that they flashed 2.67 firmware to check for errors. If install was good they updated to the most recent firmware with Pico Toolbox.
I ve bought around 30-40 rp2040 zeros from same seller. Pretty happy with them so far except today. Im pretty sure they are clones? Everything works on them, even led.
Even if today sucked having to deal with this defective picofly, its not a deal breaker for me (well i already bought them so even if it was a dealbreaker i dont have a choice) . It just sucks i went though all this trouble .. If only i knew from start
What does your ribbon connector look like? Is it the small version or large (potential clone) version?
So are you suggesting that the other user was saying that the LED on these clones is actually functional on 2.67fw?
That's what I'm assuming because he said he had the same chips and that's what he did. I've only done one install with these, but if the LED works properly with 2.67 then I'll just flash the new firmware after confirming it works. Attached is the install I did last weekend.
Yeah that's my experience exactly.
Chunky ribbon connector.. zero glitch LED action.
Aside from this, it works as expected.
Even if they are clones they do have the Pi logo on the chip and I think these at least are genuine.
The rest of the board can't be that tricky to make.
I mean, any of us could send a board design to one of those PCB makers like PCBWay. Just need to populate it with components. I suspect someone in China was bound to do exactly this eventually.
Perhaps we need to start a thread that links to Ali Express sellers with original RP2040 Zero/Tiny stock..
Last edited by RedFawkes,
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