Picofly AIO Thread

[abal1000x]

Editted:
Nvm already got the answer.

 

[roxzii]

Hi everyone!

I did an install, and at the end the diode values seemed to check out (the CPU pin was a little above 0.900 but my multimeter shows direct probe to probe as anywhere between 20 to 120, so I figured it would be inside the 0.900 range). So picofly works, no sd card screen, all good. After I put in sd card package black screen. Removed sd card, pressed volume+/- to go to OFW, purple screen. Purple screen means I screwed up CMD point. Fixed it.

Now I get a blue screen, so it seems I may have screwed up more than one thing. Everything I found pointed to the APU, so I removed the hwfly flex ribbon, disconnected the pi, still blue screen. I was really careful when installing the flex cable, I knew those caps are heat sensitive so I tried to be as quick as possible, pre-tinned the cable, plenty of flux and everything.

Is it possible I fried one of the two caps and that's the reason for the blue screen? Since the pico manages to glitch shouldn't the caps be fine? I suppose that if there was a problem with those SP1 and SP2 caps the pico would give an error code.

If photos are needed of RST I can post tomorrow, but since I get to the no sd card screen I'm guessing that shouldn't be the problem. Also don't have photos of the apu with the flex cable since I removed it for testing.

Sorry for the long read, just wanted to explain the problem the best way possible.

Appreciate any help!

 

[abal1000x]

Hi everyone!

I did an install, and at the end the diode values seemed to check out (the CPU pin was a little above 0.900 but my multimeter shows direct probe to probe as anywhere between 20 to 120, so I figured it would be inside the 0.900 range). So picofly works, no sd card screen, all good. After I put in sd card package black screen. Removed sd card, pressed volume+/- to go to OFW, purple screen. Purple screen means I screwed up CMD point. Fixed it.

Now I get a blue screen, so it seems I may have screwed up more than one thing. Everything I found pointed to the APU, so I removed the hwfly flex ribbon, disconnected the pi, still blue screen. I was really careful when installing the flex cable, I knew those caps are heat sensitive so I tried to be as quick as possible, pre-tinned the cable, plenty of flux and everything.

Is it possible I fried one of the two caps and that's the reason for the blue screen? Since the pico manages to glitch shouldn't the caps be fine? I suppose that if there was a problem with those SP1 and SP2 caps the pico would give an error code.

If photos are needed of RST I can post tomorrow, but since I get to the no sd card screen I'm guessing that shouldn't be the problem. Also don't have photos of the apu with the flex cable since I removed it for testing.

Sorry for the long read, just wanted to explain the problem the best way possible.

Appreciate any help!

What guide you use for that 3.3v point?
nvm its correct, i wrongly see it, some rotation and everything is okay.

 

[agus]

hwfly picofly rp2040 core can't enter ofw mode.. need help

 

[Dee87]

Thank you @Dee87 for mentioning using a Lower Gauge Wire on the MOSFETS.
Switching from 0.1mm Magnet Wire to 30 AWG Insulated Wiring fixed it for me and i get the no sd screen on my OLED .

No problem ;-)
That's why we are here

The next best thing u should do is get ride of that trash dat0 adapter

 

[axlcat]

Hi everyone!

I did an install, and at the end the diode values seemed to check out (the CPU pin was a little above 0.900 but my multimeter shows direct probe to probe as anywhere between 20 to 120, so I figured it would be inside the 0.900 range). So picofly works, no sd card screen, all good. After I put in sd card package black screen. Removed sd card, pressed volume+/- to go to OFW, purple screen. Purple screen means I screwed up CMD point. Fixed it.

Now I get a blue screen, so it seems I may have screwed up more than one thing. Everything I found pointed to the APU, so I removed the hwfly flex ribbon, disconnected the pi, still blue screen. I was really careful when installing the flex cable, I knew those caps are heat sensitive so I tried to be as quick as possible, pre-tinned the cable, plenty of flux and everything.

Is it possible I fried one of the two caps and that's the reason for the blue screen? Since the pico manages to glitch shouldn't the caps be fine? I suppose that if there was a problem with those SP1 and SP2 caps the pico would give an error code.

If photos are needed of RST I can post tomorrow, but since I get to the no sd card screen I'm guessing that shouldn't be the problem. Also don't have photos of the apu with the flex cable since I removed it for testing.

Sorry for the long read, just wanted to explain the problem the best way possible.

Appreciate any help!

Same problem here yesterday on an oled except for the purple screen part, I think your problem is because of the DATO adapter, I uninstalled the picofly and my DAT0 adapter was broken (damaged or corrupt EMMC)

 

[roxzii]

Same problem here yesterday on an oled except for the purple screen part, I think your problem is because of the DATO adapter, I uninstalled the picofly and my DAT0 adapter was broken (damaged or corrupt EMMC)

Thank you for the reply! Wouldn't that give me an error code on the picofly though?

EDIT: If it was emmc/nand curruption it would still get to hekate, so that can't be it.

Post automatically merged: Jul 7, 2023

Hi everyone!

I did an install, and at the end the diode values seemed to check out (the CPU pin was a little above 0.900 but my multimeter shows direct probe to probe as anywhere between 20 to 120, so I figured it would be inside the 0.900 range). So picofly works, no sd card screen, all good. After I put in sd card package black screen. Removed sd card, pressed volume+/- to go to OFW, purple screen. Purple screen means I screwed up CMD point. Fixed it.

Now I get a blue screen, so it seems I may have screwed up more than one thing. Everything I found pointed to the APU, so I removed the hwfly flex ribbon, disconnected the pi, still blue screen. I was really careful when installing the flex cable, I knew those caps are heat sensitive so I tried to be as quick as possible, pre-tinned the cable, plenty of flux and everything.

Is it possible I fried one of the two caps and that's the reason for the blue screen? Since the pico manages to glitch shouldn't the caps be fine? I suppose that if there was a problem with those SP1 and SP2 caps the pico would give an error code.

If photos are needed of RST I can post tomorrow, but since I get to the no sd card screen I'm guessing that shouldn't be the problem. Also don't have photos of the apu with the flex cable since I removed it for testing.

Sorry for the long read, just wanted to explain the problem the best way possible.

Appreciate any help!

Update: Resoldered the flex cable, turned the pi back on. Tried running UMS-Loader as a payload and it ran. Not sure what to make of this. Since it only uses RAM and it works, the problem must be in the APU?

EDIT: It appears I was wrong. Since it runs from iRAM it means the APU is fine, not the RAM.

Would appreciate any help, really lost on this one.

 

[cgtchy0412]

only if you get a pirated or defective rp2040
I already did 350 more installations of version 2.74 all worked

Lol... judging from lets say 3 months ago then you must be like installing 3-5 unit switch each day?... that is madness.

 

[abal1000x]

Lol... judging from lets say 3 months ago then you must be like installing 3-5 unit switch each day?... that is madness.

With that hour of experience, no wonder his work is like art.

 

[switchuserfriendly]

Nintendo Switch Lite Alternative Point DAT0 CMD CLK by Modyfikator. Hope it help you

hi, could you say me the value of the resistor indicated by modi as alternative cmd point on switch lite (Yellow Circle), i've to replace it, thank you

 

[agus]

need help.. emmc init.. what should i do now? rp2040zero with 2 resitor it same .

 

[abal1000x]

need help.. emmc init.. what should i do now? rp2040zero with 2 resitor it same .

Add the cmd resistor value to around 100ohms.
If necessary do the same to dat0 resistor.

 

[Ring0man]

Hi there! I installed my Picofly onto a new Switch Lite I bought. It boots to the Hekate screen no problem, but no matter what I try I can't boot into the actual console, not even OFW. I'm using all 40 awg magnet wire, a FAT 32 128 GB SD card, and the 47 ohm resistors on the DAT 0, CMD, and CLK. Is there anything I can do here?

 

[roxzii]

Hi everyone!

I did an install, and at the end the diode values seemed to check out (the CPU pin was a little above 0.900 but my multimeter shows direct probe to probe as anywhere between 20 to 120, so I figured it would be inside the 0.900 range). So picofly works, no sd card screen, all good. After I put in sd card package black screen. Removed sd card, pressed volume+/- to go to OFW, purple screen. Purple screen means I screwed up CMD point. Fixed it.

Now I get a blue screen, so it seems I may have screwed up more than one thing. Everything I found pointed to the APU, so I removed the hwfly flex ribbon, disconnected the pi, still blue screen. I was really careful when installing the flex cable, I knew those caps are heat sensitive so I tried to be as quick as possible, pre-tinned the cable, plenty of flux and everything.

Is it possible I fried one of the two caps and that's the reason for the blue screen? Since the pico manages to glitch shouldn't the caps be fine? I suppose that if there was a problem with those SP1 and SP2 caps the pico would give an error code.

If photos are needed of RST I can post tomorrow, but since I get to the no sd card screen I'm guessing that shouldn't be the problem. Also don't have photos of the apu with the flex cable since I removed it for testing.

Sorry for the long read, just wanted to explain the problem the best way possible.

Appreciate any help!

So a few updates:

Mangled both SP1 and SP2 caps, have not been able to replace them. Saw in a post soldering the hwfly flex directly to the pads would work.

At this point I was getting anxious and took some anxiety meds (pro tip: don't)

From there the screw ups kept growing. First I (very stupidly, I know) soldered the hwfly flex tape directly to the pads WITHOUT disconnecting the battery. Just from that I'm assuming I killed the switch. But there's more.

Since I was working with the APU shield off I managed to touch the picofly's contacts to the DRAM metal housing where the shield fits over. I heard some kind of sound and immediatly realized.

Since then picofly gives RST error (which it never did before). Tried another picofly, no leds at all. Still have't installed the old one back.

I'm assuming it's something burnt from soldering with the battery on that's causing that RST problem, because at least the pico was working flawlessy before.

Anyone know if this is salvageble or completely dead?

I can post pictures of current install but figured that wouldn't help much.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ring0man]

Hi there! I installed my Picofly onto a new Switch Lite I bought. It boots to the Hekate screen no problem, but no matter what I try I can't boot into the actual console, not even OFW. I'm using all 40 awg magnet wire, a FAT 32 128 GB SD card, and the 47 ohm resistors on the DAT 0, CMD, and CLK. Is there anything I can do here?

So in case anyone wants to help me figure this out, I've done some troubleshooting steps but I'm still stuck. Just to be clear, when booting CFW, OFW or even Ubuntu off the SD card, it can't boot into it. The Joycon logo does not appear when trying to boot, it's just a black screen. This tells me (from my research) that it's not getting past the first boot sequence. Where should I start from here?

 

[Hellflame]

So a few updates:

Mangled both SP1 and SP2 caps, have not been able to replace them. Saw in a post soldering the hwfly flex directly to the pads would work.

At this point I was getting anxious and took some anxiety meds (pro tip: don't)

From there the screw ups kept growing. First I (very stupidly, I know) soldered the hwfly flex tape directly to the pads WITHOUT disconnecting the battery. Just from that I'm assuming I killed the switch. But there's more.

Since I was working with the APU shield off I managed to touch the picofly's contacts to the DRAM metal housing where the shield fits over. I heard some kind of sound and immediatly realized.

Since then picofly gives RST error (which it never did before). Tried another picofly, no leds at all. Still have't installed the old one back.

I'm assuming it's something burnt from soldering with the battery on that's causing that RST problem, because at least the pico was working flawlessy before.

Anyone know if this is salvageble or completely dead?

I can post pictures of current install but figured that wouldn't help much.

Thanks in advance!

hrmm , the chip might hv been shorted to ground , you can stick some kapton tape behind the chip

 

[Modi]

hi, could you say me the value of the resistor indicated by modi as alternative cmd point on switch lite (Yellow Circle), i've to replace it, thank you

View attachment 382256

will check today

 

[QuiTim]

So in case anyone wants to help me figure this out, I've done some troubleshooting steps but I'm still stuck. Just to be clear, when booting CFW, OFW or even Ubuntu off the SD card, it can't boot into it. The Joycon logo does not appear when trying to boot, it's just a black screen. This tells me (from my research) that it's not getting past the first boot sequence. Where should I start from here?

what is the total resistance on dat0, clk, cmd? did you use 1 or 2 resistors?
what fw version was the console before moding?

 

[Ring0man]

what is the total resistance on dat0, clk, cmd? did you use 1 or 2 resistors?
what fw version was the console before moding?

All were 47 ohms, 1 resistor. FW was the latest one. Nothing should be wrong EMMC wise, I did a full backup of the NAND and it didn't mention it being slower than normal or anything.

It had to be a physical fault with the system I think, I remember I started the system with the modchip installed, the first time I did it the negative wire for the chip wasn't fully connected. I must have blown something.

 

[QuiTim]

All were 47 ohms, 1 resistor. FW was the latest one. Nothing should be wrong EMMC wise, I did a full backup of the NAND and it didn't mention it being slower than normal or anything.

It had to be a physical fault with the system I think, I remember I started the system with the modchip installed, the first time I did it the negative wire for the chip wasn't fully connected. I must have blown something.

I think at this point you need to remove all the wires and modchip and see what we can do to boot the Switch to ofw first.
If you have done this already, what happens when you power on the switch?