Picofly AIO Thread
- Thread starter Adran_Marit
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Just doing some experimenting. Undid my oled which had 0.1 all throughout with SDA/SCL wire soldered (I was given the ==* error code). Decided to pull apart to use 0.2 for the mosfet, GND, and 3V. The rest I kept 0.1. Even after doing all that I’m still given ==* error code. Will add 30awg to gate to see if that makes a difference.
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Update- adding 30awg to gate did not make a difference.
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Last edited by BlueBeans,
only if you get a pirated or defective rp2040Hi
I have a issue about the last Pico fw, since yesterday, i glicth a v2 console and all time, i have this error :
" *== No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU) "
Today, i take a new chip, flash a fw_2.72_fix.uf2 fw and now, it work with the same flex installed...
Someone can explain me for what it don't work with the last fw and work great on 2.72
I already did 350 more installations of version 2.74 all worked
Did you try soldering to the other cap (the one on the left)?
Did you try other type of mosfet?
Or maybe soldering directly to the cap (No wires)?
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Update for the dead OLED. Yesterday I couldn't wait and imporvised with various things with my emmc stencil. Best really sturdy thing that was Ace for the job was some double sided foam sticky tape. Put on all four sides and it worked amazing. Pasted the stencil over with ease. The balls were fluxed after they were reballed to get them to settle on the chip before installation. Slightly lower heat but closer to the chip. Less flux. Hit 400 degrees again for ~30 secs and voila.
Then carried on with the rest of the mod. Kapton taped the high component traffic areas. Used cpu fplex cable (couldn't be asked to mosfet after all that). And used 2.67fw. Worked a treat. Im glad I stayed patient and apologise to the community for my childish outburst. You literally helped me from smashing a now cfw modded oled to smithereens. Forgive me.
(btw that clk point on the oled is a tricky old boy)
Then carried on with the rest of the mod. Kapton taped the high component traffic areas. Used cpu fplex cable (couldn't be asked to mosfet after all that). And used 2.67fw. Worked a treat. Im glad I stayed patient and apologise to the community for my childish outburst. You literally helped me from smashing a now cfw modded oled to smithereens. Forgive me.
(btw that clk point on the oled is a tricky old boy)
i have not tried any of those things. will give them a try. i dont have any other mosfets to try with
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I have a V2 here giving me the == error code. CLK is definitely connected and ive even swapped out the resistor. any other suggestions?
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false alarm
Last edited by BlueBeans,
Congratulations man, it's very nice to see that you managed to do this.
And believe me I understand your frustration, I have a long list of electronic equipment that I destroyed in various creative ways during the last 20yrs (and still feel quite good about it), sometimes you just need to let some steam out.
But your patience paid off (with help of @Dee87 's calming and encouraging words
) and this will be a great help for me any anybody who wants to do this.Now you are a proud member of the Reball-or-Die family, see you there soon
Last edited by QuiTim,
Nice bro congrats
Told ya to not give up , the balls look way better now
Glad to hear everything worked out
Off topic but important for switch user after hacking !!!
I buy some sd card on aliexpress and after testing, writing is very slow and after installation, i get an error and the game is not installed... someone can give me a link for a good sd card to use on switch console please...
thanks a lot !!!
I buy some sd card on aliexpress and after testing, writing is very slow and after installation, i get an error and the game is not installed... someone can give me a link for a good sd card to use on switch console please...
thanks a lot !!!
I have a strange OLED that was not boot OFW with HWFLY then I changed with the Picofly it boot both CFW and OFW but some reason after some time it won't boot hekate now, only OFW. What am I missing? If it is because SK Hynix I will loose my mind...
Edited:
The important thing is to buy original cards (this goes for any type of storage is you don't want to lose your data)
SanDisk, Kingstone Canvas series, Samsung, Lexar are all good brands as long as you are sure that they are original.
Last edited by QuiTim,
A friend bought a 256gb SanDisk here and it's working OK.I test LENOVO and some card but nothing good
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/4417025
I don't know if it is original or not but I can confirm that it is working OK on Switch v2 (with Pico) for almost 2 months now.
The MOSFET gate is very high impedance, meaning the wire connected to it carries very little current. It is no surprise that the thicker wire made no difference for this connection.
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