Picofly AIO Thread

Ring0man

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I think at this point you need to remove all the wires and modchip and see what we can do to boot the Switch to ofw first.
If you have done this already, what happens when you power on the switch?
Yeah, black screen. I'm sure the CPU still works since it's able to boot Hekate and do NAND dump operations but I'm kinda lost after that.
 

jkyoho

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Hi there! I installed my Picofly onto a new Switch Lite I bought. It boots to the Hekate screen no problem, but no matter what I try I can't boot into the actual console, not even OFW. I'm using all 40 awg magnet wire, a FAT 32 128 GB SD card, and the 47 ohm resistors on the DAT 0, CMD, and CLK. Is there anything I can do here?
Screenshot your emmc info from Hekate--> console info-->eMMC
 

broadw3ll

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Hi there, I've been trying to install the rp2040 without luck, I've already checked the connections with a a multimeter in continuity, no maters what I tried I just won't boot to the no sd card screen it just boots to the nintendo animation and initialize the console without problems but never reachsr to the sd card screen im gonna ad pictures of the installation so I would appreciate a lot if you can give I a look maybe you can se something that I dont, im also gonna upload the schemes that im using as a guide, I've chose to use some points directly from the Emmc than the PCB but I've also checked if they are the same line using again the continuity mode in the multimeter, just to end im using thru hole resistors for the moment until the SMD ones arrived from amazon. thanx 4 u time
 

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lightninjay

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Hi there, I've been trying to install the rp2040 without luck, I've already checked the connections with a a multimeter in continuity, no maters what I tried I just won't boot to the no sd card screen it just boots to the nintendo animation and initialize the console without problems but never reachsr to the sd card screen im gonna ad pictures of the installation so I would appreciate a lot if you can give I a look maybe you can se something that I dont, im also gonna upload the schemes that im using as a guide, I've chose to use some points directly from the Emmc than the PCB but I've also checked if they are the same line using again the continuity mode in the multimeter, just to end im using thru hole resistors for the moment until the SMD ones arrived from amazon. thanx 4 u time
Assuming the photos are the exact way that you are attempting to power your switch, then you need to insulate your RP2040 board from the metal in the console with something like Kapton tape. Also, your wires seem quite thin. While they MAY work, most would recommend using something slightly thicker like .2mm
 

broadw3ll

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I’ve forgot to add that it seems to kind of working because when I hit reset it restarts the console trying to enter in the bug, I’m gonna buy a thicker wire and try again, also when I hit power in the console i got a blue light in the status led then goes to yellow
 

TheBad

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So in case anyone wants to help me figure this out, I've done some troubleshooting steps but I'm still stuck. Just to be clear, when booting CFW, OFW or even Ubuntu off the SD card, it can't boot into it. The Joycon logo does not appear when trying to boot, it's just a black screen. This tells me (from my research) that it's not getting past the first boot sequence. Where should I start from here?
I was stumble upon this kind of problem with a Lite. Did you use flex cable on APU or mosfet? Changing mosfet worked for me.
 
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roice2000

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Hi guys,
does pico chip drain the battery power a little bit or a lot? i found a brand new switch oled from a friend which battery drains empty after 1-2 days without playing any games.
im not sure if it was standby or even shut down.

Does the chip drains so much power `?

Or does the picofly software have a bug?
 

abal1000x

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Hi guys,
does pico chip drain the battery power a little bit or a lot? i found a brand new switch oled from a friend which battery drains empty after 1-2 days without playing any games.
im not sure if it was standby or even shut down.

Does the chip drains so much power `?

Or does the picofly software have a bug?
I rather doubt your friends claim.

I see lot of people claiming something that ridiculous in the picofly main thread.
Like using longer wire on mosfet, or faster emmc speed then 20Mbps for the random test, which for me is a bs. I conclude people just simply lying.
 

roice2000

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no
I rather doubt your friends claim.

I see lot of people claiming something that ridiculous in the picofly main thread.
Like using longer wire on mosfet, or faster emmc speed then 20Mbps for the random test, which for me is a bs. I conclude people just simply lying.
no, i saw it myself.
full Oled switch and after one day empty power.

I dont know what causes this problem.
His thought was maybe a buggy chip. His switch was turned off i think, and i think it still drained much power.

How long can you keep a OLED switch in stanby Mode with full battery with picofly?
More than 2 weeks ?
 

abal1000x

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no

no, i saw it myself.
full Oled switch and after one day empty power.
You saw it straight until it offs?
I dont know what causes this problem.
His thought was maybe a buggy chip. His switch was turned off i think, and i think it still drained much power.
Mod is bad, don't mod it.
How long can you keep a OLED switch in stanby Mode with full battery with picofly?
More than 2 weeks ?
Can the unmodded survive more than 2 weeks in sleep mode?
 

WalangAlam

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no

no, i saw it myself.
full Oled switch and after one day empty power.

I dont know what causes this problem.
His thought was maybe a buggy chip. His switch was turned off i think, and i think it still drained much power.

How long can you keep a OLED switch in stanby Mode with full battery with picofly?
More than 2 weeks ?
i saw this since sxcore...maybe atmosphere or hekate related than chip related
 

switchuserfriendly

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Hi Guys, help pls, this is the error code *=*, is a switch lite with picofly, it booted one time but after a lost resistor (alternative cmd point indicated by Modi) and replaced it, ive that code :

in diode mode the strange reads are :

cpu : 1,2 v
rst : 1,5 v

are them normal??

HELP ME
Thanks
 

TheBad

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Hi Guys, help pls, this is the error code *=*, is a switch lite with picofly, it booted one time but after a lost resistor (alternative cmd point indicated by Modi) and replaced it, ive that code :

in diode mode the strange reads are :

cpu : 1,2 v
rst : 1,5 v

are them normal??

HELP ME
Thanks
Could you post pictures of your install?
 

3L_S4N70

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Hi all. First of all, thanks to the creator for this amazing development.

I have a problem, I am receiving a =* error code (thrice), so I think it is indicating a problem with D0, although I've checked continuity from D0 in the NAND board to the Pico, and it seems to be ok. Do you know what the problem could be? I know I have to share photos of my installation, I am out now, will do it ASAP. Meanwhile, if you have any suggestions, I am fully open.

I haven't tried yet to add the double resistors, nor the i2c lines.

Thanks in advance
 

abal1000x

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Hi all. First of all, thanks to the creator for this amazing development.

I have a problem, I am receiving a =* error code (thrice), so I think it is indicating a problem with D0, although I've checked continuity from D0 in the NAND board to the Pico, and it seems to be ok. Do you know what the problem could be? I know I have to share photos of my installation, I am out now, will do it ASAP. Meanwhile, if you have any suggestions, I am fully open.

I haven't tried yet to add the double resistors, nor the i2c lines.

Thanks in advance
FYI, pico check the D0 voltage, its should be around 1.6V 1.8V +- 0.2V. Outside of this voltage, it will throws that error.

My cheap guest, you use wrong point of D0, or something bridging.
 
Last edited by abal1000x,

3L_S4N70

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FYI, pico check the D0 voltage, its should be around 1.6V +- 0.2V. Outside of this voltage, it will throws that error.

My cheap guest, you use wrong point of D0, or something bridging.
Thanks for the comment, I will check if there is a bridge, I am sure the point is correct (I have checked it -and all the other points- both visually and with the multimeter when possible three times). Nonetheless, I will recheck all the points again with a different diagram just in case I've used the wrong source.

I'll keep you informed, nonetheless I appreciate any other comments in the meantime :)

Thanks!
 

abal1000x

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Thanks for the comment, I will check if there is a bridge, I am sure the point is correct (I have checked it -and all the other points- both visually and with the multimeter when possible three times). Nonetheless, I will recheck all the points again with a different diagram just in case I've used the wrong source.

I'll keep you informed, nonetheless I appreciate any other comments in the meantime :)

Thanks!
Sorry my memory is blurring. Its 1.8V +- 0.2v

a.png
 

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