Picofly AIO Thread

[Smiles]

Thank you, so if I am on the no sd screen would there be a way to boot into ofw at that point? Or do I need a payload to do that for me?

 

[lightninjay]

My latest revision (v.3) of the PicoFly install guide has been uploaded here on gbatemp

https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/

 

[naldo29]

If i translate using google that disclaimer into my native language, it means that you and other member will be responsible for any kind of damage that happened.

"Me nor any of the other temp members who helped make this happen will be held liable to any damage you cause your console in attempting to mod it."

Post automatically merged: Apr 13, 2023

In my experience (blue->cyan), i change the mosfets then its fixed.

This is my analization before concluding the mosfets is the problem.
The probable cause:
1. The cpu line (pin 15 in pico) cannot deliver the glitch.
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter, or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger i.e. 0.2mm or make the wire shorter
2. The wire between S and D mosfet to the APU
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter. Or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger or shorter.
3. The rst pin (might hit couple of time when glitching)
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter. Or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger or shorter.
4. The clk pin (The sync of the signal)
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter. Or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger or shorter.
5. If 1-4 is okay, then the glitch is delivered, then the problem is in the mosftet. Replace with new mosfet.

the mosfet was working before, only thing i did was fix some of the pinouts because they were too flimsy and were causing me issues, i also removed the boot button and the reset and the usb c port (dont know if that could cause it to go cyan and blue but yeah). It all worked before, but i couldnt get hakate to dump my nand for the life of me and hakete started to crash so i decided to redo the pins. i redid everything except 3.3 and gnd.
Idk if this is right but this is what i got when i did a continuity check
cpu. beep
rst. 1.250
clk. beep
cmd. 0.485
dat 0. 0.050 & (weird staticy beep)
3.3v. 0.640
gnd. beep
something is definetly wrong here. but im too new at this to understand. Please enlighten me. Thanks

 

[abal1000x]

the mosfet was working before, only thing i did was fix some of the pinouts because they were too flimsy and were causing me issues, i also removed the boot button and the reset and the usb c port (dont know if that could cause it to go cyan and blue but yeah). It all worked before, but i couldnt get hakate to dump my nand for the life of me and hakete started to crash so i decided to redo the pins. i redid everything except 3.3 and gnd.
Idk if this is right but this is what i got when i did a continuity check
cpu. beep
rst. 1.250
clk. beep
cmd. 0.485
dat 0. 0.050 & (weird staticy beep)
3.3v. 0.640
gnd. beep
something is definetly wrong here. but im too new at this to understand. Please enlighten me. Thanks

if using continuity test all (cpu line, reset, clock, cmd, dat0, 3.3v, gnd) should be beep. If its not beep, or the beeps not smooth, then theres issue need to be fixed. The easiest one is using IPA and earbud to clean whatever is left around the solder point. The more difficult one is to resolder the point. Handle with care, too much heat, could cause the pad ripped. Heat make the copper contracted, and the contraction might disconnect the pad from the surface of the pcb.

Except the one on the apu, the S and D must not check using continuity, but using ohmmeter. Even though its beeping, but there is resistance when using ohmmeter. I believe there is somekind of inductor inside.

 

[naldo29]

if using continuity test all (cpu line, reset, clock, cmd, dat0, 3.3v, gnd) should be beep. If its not beep, or the beeps not smooth, then theres issue need to be fixed. The easiest one is using IPA and earbud to clean whatever is left around the solder point. The more difficult one is to resolder the point. Handle with care, too much heat, could cause the pad ripped. Heat make the copper contracted, and the contraction might disconnect the pad from the surface of the pcb.

Except the one on the apu, the S and D must not check using continuity, but using ohmmeter. Even though its beeping, but there is resistance when using ohmmeter. I believe there is somekind of inductor inside.

wait so your telling me that rst cmd dat 0 and 3.3v are done wrong?

 

[abal1000x]

wait so your telling me that rst cmd dat 0 and 3.3v are done wrong?

I assume you check the continuity for example 3.3v point on the motherboard and the pico pin, then the beep should be heard. Means the wire is connected. If its not beep then it considered disconnected.

For dat0, cmd, clk need to check the continuity from motherboard point to the resistor 47Ohm pin. It should beep, to make sure the wire is connected. Then check the resistance of 47Ohm to make sure it is not broken (open circuit).

Similar with 3.3v and rst to check the continuity between motherboard point to the pico pin, to make sure its connected, it should be beep.

 

[naldo29]

ohhhhhh ive been checking by using ground and then using the pico pins, if i do it from motherboard and picopin.
If i do it like this then

cpu. beep
rst. beep
clk. 0.057 with beep (without resistor its just a beep, no number)
cmd. 0.057 with beep (without resistor its just a beep, no number)
dat 0. 0.057 with beep (without resistor its just a beep, no number)
3.3v (im a dumbass so i filled it up with solder mask so i cant test but it worked before so i hope thats fine)
gnd (im a dumbass so i filled it up with solder mask so i cant test but it worked before so i hope thats fine)
so im leaving those for my only option becuase it be a pain to get rid of it.

 

[abal1000x]

ohhhhhh ive been checking by using ground and then using the pico pins, if i do it from motherboard and picopin.
If i do it like this then

cpu. beep
rst. beep
clk. 0.057 with beep (without resistor its just a beep, no number)
cmd. 0.057 with beep (without resistor its just a beep, no number)
dat 0. 0.057 with beep (without resistor its just a beep, no number)
3.3v (im a dumbass so i filled it up with solder mask so i cant test but it worked before so i hope thats fine)
gnd (im a dumbass so i filled it up with solder mask so i cant test but it worked before so i hope thats fine)
so im leaving those for my only option becuase it be a pain to get rid of it.

Then the problem might be from the side of the Mosfet.
Try to check the continuity of the pin S and D of the mosfet to the capacitor on the side of the APU.
If that is okay, then i suspect the mosfet is broke, and need replacement.

 

[naldo29]

Then the problem might be from the side of the Mosfet.
Try to check the continuity of the pin S and D of the mosfet to the capacitor on the side of the APU.
If that is okay, then i suspect the mosfet is broke, and need replacement.

im using the apu ribbon cable, how is it possible to check if im not able to reach it without removing sp 1 and sp 2?

 

[abal1000x]

im using the apu ribbon cable, how is it possible to check if im not able to reach it without removing sp 1 and sp 2?

ah i see. can't comment on that. i don't have flex cable i can played on.
I watch the mosfets in there is 2, and connect to 2 caps, i think its more than enough, so its low probable to be broken.

When you test the cpu continuity, you test from the ribbon cable to the pico, right?

 

[naldo29]

ah i see. can't comment on that. i don't have flex cable i can played on.
I watch the mosfets in there is 2, and connect to 2 caps, i think its more than enough, so its low probable to be broken.

When you test the cpu continuity, you test from the ribbon cable to the pico, right?

yes, ribbon cable to pico and it beeps

 

[Raugo]

Any other alternative point for th3 3.3v? I used the one from the emmc but it has come loose and I don't want to remove the emmc again so as not to lose the reset too and the one next to the memories is difficult because I have the chip right next to it.

 

[Adran_Marit]

Any other alternative point for th3 3.3v? I used the one from the emmc but it has come loose and I don't want to remove the emmc again so as not to lose the reset too and the one next to the memories is difficult because I have the chip right next to it.

what switch you have?

 

[rehius]

Any other alternative point for th3 3.3v? I used the one from the emmc but it has come loose and I don't want to remove the emmc again so as not to lose the reset too and the one next to the memories is difficult because I have the chip right next to it.

I solder to the eMMC header on the PCB itself so I can swap flash at any moment. It's harder but once done you don't worry about cables

 

[Raugo]

what switch you have?

Oh right, is a mariko normal (no oled no lite)

@rehius that is not an option now because I have 3 points in the emmc now and to solder in the connector I would need to remove the emmc

 

[rehius]

Oh right, is a mariko normal (no oled no lite)

@rehius that is not an option now because I have 3 points in the emmc now and to solder in the connector I would need to remove the emmc

https://github.com/sthetix/DIAGRAM/blob/main/OLED-on-V2-Diagram-Version-2.jpg

 

[hyndrid]

Hello !

A friend of mine wants to launch on the hack of the lite with a rp2040 he only needs to flash with the firmware 2.64 only thank you ?

 

[Raugo]

Ok, is all installed and get the no sd card screen but I have a problem, if I boot with vol- + vol+ to boot stock the console get stuck in a black screen after the nintendo logo.

 

[rehius]

Ok, is all installed and get the no sd card screen but I have a problem, if I boot with vol- + vol+ to boot stock the console get stuck in a black screen after the nintendo logo.

what firmware have you used? this should not happen if you had a working OFW before the install (unless you have used v2.5 firmware). If possible, please send me BOOT0 backup in PM.

to fix that you can boot stock firmware with hekate, then apply the latest system update in an official way

 

[naldo29]

yes, ribbon cable to pico and it beeps

I FOUND THE PROBLEM OH MY GOD.....the top left pad of the boot button was soldered to the resistor.... fml