Same points as v1/v2, works same way. It doesn't matter whether it's patched or unpatched.
by the way hekate can work in a simple mode, without the touch GUI, Vol/Power navigation
Post automatically merged:
for restore you need to put them into backup/********/restore folder
@Adran_Marit
I think the Disclaimer sentence in the page 1 is wong its should be 'will NOT be held liable'.
But i don't know for sure, english is not my native language.
View attachment 364594
can i bridge this? its the clk for v2 (the right one, i wanna bridge the top and bottom to get an easier and more stable solder)
From the picture it seems already bridged (There is trace in there connecting both pad)
To make sure just use multimeter (ohmmeter) to measure the resistance.
If it is zero than its bridged (okay to use both point top and bottom)
Need to confirm from other members, i cant speak english well, afraid if i make a mistake on understanding the meaning.
View attachment 364594
can i bridge this? its the clk for v2 (the right one, i wanna bridge the top and bottom to get an easier and more stable solder)
Yes, these points are bridged. How do I know? Because I ripped one of my CLK pads loose, and the console stopped booting, and I had to repair it with magnet wire and uv-cure resin.
Yes, these points are bridged. How do I know? Because I ripped one of my CLK pads loose, and the console stopped booting, and I had to repair it with magnet wire and uv-cure resin.
View attachment 364594
can i bridge this? its the clk for v2 (the right one, i wanna bridge the top and bottom to get an easier and more stable solder)
Lmao, yeahhh, I started by ripping my DAT0, then ripped CLK in the process of repairing that. All told at this point, I had to repair three separate traces in my switch, and I blame it on using 30awg Kynar for the points instead of just using it for power and the leads from the mosfet to the caps. Coulda ran all my other points with my 40awg magnet wire and not have ripped any of the pads. -_-
Lmao, yeahhh, I started by ripping my DAT0, then ripped CLK in the process of repairing that. All told at this point, I had to repair three separate traces in my switch, and I blame it on using 30awg Kynar for the points instead of just using it for power and the leads from the mosfet to the caps. Coulda ran all my other points with my 40awg magnet wire and not have ripped any of the pads. -_-
AWG is shorthand for American Wire Gauge, or people just call it "Gauge" for short. So 36 gauge wire, and 36awg are the same. 40 and 36 are nearly the same size, but 40 is slightly smaller. Think hair thickness for 36awg, and slightly thinner than a single strand of hair for 40awg.
@Adran_Marit
I think the Disclaimer sentence in the page 1 is wong its should be 'will NOT be held liable'.
But i don't know for sure, english is not my native language.
If i translate using google that disclaimer into my native language, it means that you and other member will be responsible for any kind of damage that happened.
"Me nor any of the other temp members who helped make this happen will be held liable to any damage you cause your console in attempting to mod it."
In my experience (blue->cyan), i change the mosfets then its fixed.
This is my analization before concluding the mosfets is the problem.
The probable cause:
1. The cpu line (pin 15 in pico) cannot deliver the glitch.
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter, or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger i.e. 0.2mm or make the wire shorter
2. The wire between S and D mosfet to the APU
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter. Or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger or shorter.
3. The rst pin (might hit couple of time when glitching)
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter. Or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger or shorter.
4. The clk pin (The sync of the signal)
It could be open circuit, check using multimeter. Or lot of noise, clean with IPA, or big resistance, make the wire bigger or shorter.
5. If 1-4 is okay, then the glitch is delivered, then the problem is in the mosftet. Replace with new mosfet.
If i translate using google that disclaimer into my native language, it means that you and other member will be responsible for any kind of damage that happened.
Nor is a negative english modifier, which typically implies that all groups involved are negatively implicated in the following statement.
While technically the phrase could be re-written to something more along the lines of
I will not be held responsible or liable, nor will any of the other temp members who helped make this happen, should you cause any damage to your console in attempting to mod it.
The google mistranslated the 'nor' meaning i think.
Here if i retranslate what the google translated back to english:
Original:
"Me nor any of the other temp members who helped make this happen will be held liable to any damage you cause your console in attempting to mod it."
My Native:
"Saya atau anggota sementara lainnya yang membantu mewujudkan hal ini akan bertanggung jawab atas kerusakan apa pun yang Anda sebabkan pada konsol Anda saat mencoba memodifikasinya"
Translate back to english:
"I or any other temporary member who helped make this happen will be held responsible for any damage you cause to your console while trying to modify it"
The "nor" is gone becomes "or" which have the opposite meanings.
WIthout sd card, if success you will see picofly logo with graphical text 'no sd card'
If the glitch failed, you might only see blank screen, or reboot into ofw.
WIth sd card inserted and hekate payload.bin on the root, when success, you will goes directly to hekate.
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