Picofly AIO Thread

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In raw words, a MOSFET is a switch controlled by the Gate signal, when you apply a low voltage to Gate pin, the electricity can flow between Drain and Source pins, this is used by the pico to generate the Glitch, making a shortcut on the capacitor(s) of the CPU.

That's why we need a MOSFET and no an ordinary transistor, for an instant almost 10 Amps can run between the cap needing thick conductors

And the need of precision of the timing require short wires between cap and MOSFET
 
are the troubleshoot lights supposed to stay on? or only appear for a a second. Because before hwat used to happen to me when it was working is that it would go blue, then cyan then blue then cyan and then red (green but mine came defective). After cleaning and fixing some points now it just goes blue then cyan then nothing and then boots to ofw (blue screen)
This is typically indicative of CPU pin problems. You need to check your mosfet, and install a second one if you only have one. But most importantly, make sure everything is soldered well, and then cleaned well of all flux from the areas. This can cause minor bridges to ground in some cases where the flux is not completely non-conductive.
 
Is it just the camera, or is the screen somewhat jumbled as well? I suggest going and cleaning all points of flux and if you removed any flex connectors while soldering, make sure they are properly reseated and clipped in place fully.


Please see my v.2 guide for proper mosfet installation instead of pointing out contradicting images that we have been trying to kill for days at this point.

If you wouldn't mind, please edit your post and remove the images so nobody else accidentally stumbles upon them in your post and get confused.
Thanks for the reply. I removed the images. Sorry for that. I was just trying to get clarification.
 
It doesn't look like it, but they have a good caliber.
There are 2 wires, 1 for each mosfet, I got them from a winding of an old faulty power supply.

In all cases I ordered the 36 awg, I think it's good for this type of work.
UPDATE.
For the record, I updated the FW to 2.64 with the toolbox and
finally OFW works regularly.

I mean, now it works, after updating.

Also, I had downloaded 2.61 the day before yesterday, I thought it was the most recent, but after 2 days both 2.62, 2.63 and 2.64 were released?

Could it really be firmware 2.61 which was incompatible with the switch's mmc?
I attach photos.
I confirm the thesis, with 2.61 I had problems starting OFW, on 2 consoles.
Updating to 2.64 everything works again.
 
are the troubleshoot lights supposed to stay on? or only appear for a a second. Because before hwat used to happen to me when it was working is that it would go blue, then cyan then blue then cyan and then red (green but mine came defective). After cleaning and fixing some points now it just goes blue then cyan then nothing and then boots to ofw (blue screen)
For the blue and then cyan check ur soldering point on MOSFET and cable if everything is fine install second MOSFET.
About blue screen idk
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Thanks for the reply. I removed the images. Sorry for that. I was just trying to get clarification.
Only trust the pics from the aio main post everything is shown properly there
 
Last edited by Dee87,
Can someone confirm if i have just messed this up? It said remove the usb 3.3v reg and buttons which i have now done after flashing but when i plugged it back into my pc the led’s dont light up anymore? I dont want to continue to install if its ruined 😞
 
Can someone confirm if i have just messed this up? It said remove the usb 3.3v reg and buttons which i have now done after flashing but when i plugged it back into my pc the led’s dont light up anymore? I dont want to continue to install if its ruined 😞
if u remove the 3v regulator it doesnt work thats normal ,thats where the rp2040 get its power from

only remove usb,buttons,3v regulator after u flashed 2.64 because u can use picotoolbox to update
 
if u remove the 3v regulator it doesnt work thats normal ,thats where the rp2040 get its power from

only remove usb,buttons,3v regulator after u flashed 2.64 because u can use picotoolbox to update
Thanks a bunch for clearing that up man appreciate the swift reply
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Why would you remove it though ?
Because thats what the instructions say 🤔?
 
Anyone mod an unpatched system?

I have a unit here with a bad screen I was hoping to start soldering today I didn't notice anything on the front page
 
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Anyone mod an unpatched system?

I have a unit here with a bad screen I was hoping to start soldering today I didn't notice anything on the front page
several people on the past posts has been done it.
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you don't need a modchip on an unpatched console but you can use it, also you can put an injector like the trinket M0
 
several people on the past posts has been done it.
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you don't need a modchip on an unpatched console but you can use it, also you can put an injector like the trinket M0

I'm specifically asking about using a picofly in an unpatched v1 yeah.

Unfortunately I can't use hekate normally since there is no touch screen so I was going to throw this I'm there to Kickstart insentive to replace the screen by my friend

Well thank you I'll look around for the v1 solder points I only see unpatched

No need to use a modchip for a unpatched Switch.

I want to throw a chip in for a friend it is his son's system I just want to .are it as easy as possible for him to boot it without a jig and rcmloader
 
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Best option is an RCM-X86
That is a shame I don't think that will work. Oh well I'll have to just scrap the idea then since others have done v1 unpatched systems I'm sure the information is out there but I can't find the solder points if they differ from a v1 patched.

Just trying to work with what I have thanks though
 
I'm specifically asking about using a picofly in an unpatched v1 yeah.

Unfortunately I can't use hekate normally since there is no touch screen so I was going to throw this I'm there to Kickstart insentive to replace the screen by my friend
Same points as v1/v2, works same way. It doesn't matter whether it's patched or unpatched.
by the way hekate can work in a simple mode, without the touch GUI, Vol/Power navigation
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However if I try to restore, hekate gives me an error, it can't find the backup.
for restore you need to put them into backup/********/restore folder

BOOT0 regen is described here

probably the recovery mode (Vol+ & Vol- when booting OFW) may help, will test more ways when I have a free time
 
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That is a shame I don't think that will work. Oh well I'll have to just scrap the idea then since others have done v1 unpatched systems I'm sure the information is out there but I can't find the solder points if they differ from a v1 patched.

Just trying to work with what I have thanks though
you acomplish exactly the same using a chipmod or a injector (internal or external): to run a payload, in general all we run the hekate's payload. if you like to run CFW without a touch, you can setup hekate to autorun a CFW setup and startup directly on a deck console.
 

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