where exactlyi thought they were linked? they arent?
I agree, To me it appears that in the photos for this thread there is different wiring for the mosfet. I would assume either is correct as they are posted here but I am unsure why they are different. I am also curious if two mosfet is being recommended now also based on discussion I have seen as well as those same photo?Not sure, but the mosfet wiring diagram are not 100% clear to me.
As far as I understand, the wires from the CPU won't be connected to the mosfet ground plate in the middle. They need to be wired on the correct point on the side of the mosfet.
Maybe this can be clarified, if this is correct.
Gesendet von meinem SM-S911B mit Tapatal
Not sure, but the mosfet wiring diagram are not 100% clear to me.
As far as I understand, the wires from the CPU won't be connected to the mosfet ground plate in the middle. They need to be wired on the correct point on the side of the mosfet.
Maybe this can be clarified, if this is correct.
Gesendet von meinem SM-S911B mit Tapatalk
where exactly
if they are linked yes
Not sure, but the mosfet wiring diagram are not 100% clear to me.
As far as I understand, the wires from the CPU won't be connected to the mosfet ground plate in the middle. They need to be wired on the correct point on the side of the mosfet.
Maybe this can be clarified, if this is correct.
Gesendet von meinem SM-S911B mit Tapatalk
the so calledd Ground point is also called D pad and it is connected to 4 of the outer pins wich on uf u use to connect it directly so the capsI agree, To me it appears that in the photos for this thread there is different wiring for the mosfet. I would assume either is correct as they are posted here but I am unsure why they are different. I am also curious if two mosfet is being recommended now also based on discussion I have seen as well as those same photo?
exactly see this diagrammThe diagram is a first page.
I followed that.
The mosfet has the central part (the largest pad) of the common n with the 4 lateral pins.
I attach photos.
oh those yes that fine but how far did u drill down u might caught another layer![]()
okay so let me explain, where im supposed to connect the dat 0, i ripped the pad accidentally so what i did was drill a little bit so i could reveal the copper and did it like this, i know its ugly and i know this is definetly not how ur supposed to do it and thats its way too much solder but i just want to know if "it would work" also i ended up linking the one on the right side and wanted to ask if that was okay too.
just barely, literally like tapped the board once to reveal the copperPost automatically merged:
the so calledd Ground point is also called D pad and it is connected to 4 of the outer pins wich on uf u use to connect it directly so the caps
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exactly see this diagramm
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oh those yes that fine but how far did u drill down u might caught another layer
well no risk no fund right Xd u might caught a different layerjust barely, literally like tapped the board once to reveal the copper
Everything is hooked up correctly. Remove the 3.3V to picofly and the switch will bootup to OFWMight be any cable is not connected. For example, on NS Lite without power / volume buttons flat cable the display won't turn on
Come on buddy, I know you're desperate here, but please don't double-post across topics. People will see your post and try to help, but spamming it across multiple threads won't help get any help quicker.Anyways, my switch was brand new, didnt even have it setup. (which may have been the mistake) anyways my picofly booted up normally (even ofw worked but i still havent set it up) so i went it to make an emunand and once the process started, my switch was gltiched and i saw a semi green screen but also the emmunand process at the same time (idk how to explain) anyways the chip still works, hakate now doesnt and my ofw is showing up a blue screen. Fml
oh shit im so sorry my bad i didnt know that wasnt allowed and i wont do it again my apologies. and yes, thats what i mean by that sorry again for double posting.Come on buddy, I know you're desperate here, but please don't double-post across topics. People will see your post and try to help, but spamming it across multiple threads won't help get any help quicker.
When you say "the chip still works, hakate now doesnt", does this mean that without an SD card in, the PicoFly screen comes up saying "No SD Card"?
lol thats what i was using, ill try this, ill report back if anything happensOk, try reformatting your SD card, reload it with a HATS pack of some sort (google "sthetix HATS"), and see if you can get back into Hekate. Be sure your SD card board that plugs into the switch is well-connected. It's possible it may have had a poor connection while you were trying to backup things.
got this beautyOk, try reformatting your SD card, reload it with a HATS pack of some sort (google "sthetix HATS"), and see if you can get back into Hekate. Be sure your SD card board that plugs into the switch is well-connected. It's possible it may have had a poor connection while you were trying to backup things.
D I am assuming would stand for drain and s for source? If you see the following photo are contradicting in that regard. Which of these is correct? Is one a different mosfet?Post automatically merged:
the so calledd Ground point is also called D pad and it is connected to 4 of the outer pins wich on uf u use to connect it directly so the caps
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exactly see this diagramm
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oh those yes that fine but how far did u drill down u might caught another layer
its gotta be something i fucked up with soldering.lol thats what i was using, ill try this, ill report back if anything happens
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got this beauty
Is it just the camera, or is the screen somewhat jumbled as well? I suggest going and cleaning all points of flux and if you removed any flex connectors while soldering, make sure they are properly reseated and clipped in place fully.lol thats what i was using, ill try this, ill report back if anything happens
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got this beauty
Please see my v.2 guide for proper mosfet installation instead of pointing out contradicting images that we have been trying to kill for days at this point.D I am assuming would stand for drain and s for source? If you see the following photo are contradicting in that regard. Which of these is correct? Is one a different mosfet?
If you wouldn't mind, please edit your post and remove the images so nobody else accidentally stumbles upon them in your post and get confused.
are the troubleshoot lights supposed to stay on? or only appear for a a second. Because before hwat used to happen to me when it was working is that it would go blue, then cyan then blue then cyan and then red (green but mine came defective). After cleaning and fixing some points now it just goes blue then cyan then nothing and then boots to ofw (blue screen)Is it just the camera, or is the screen somewhat jumbled as well? I suggest going and cleaning all points of flux and if you removed any flex connectors while soldering, make sure they are properly reseated and clipped in place fully.
Please see my v.2 guide for proper mosfet installation instead of pointing out contradicting images that we have been trying to kill for days at this point.
If you wouldn't mind, please edit your post and remove the images so nobody else accidentally stumbles upon them in your post and get confused.