Picofly AIO Thread

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Not sure, but the mosfet wiring diagram are not 100% clear to me.
As far as I understand, the wires from the CPU won't be connected to the mosfet ground plate in the middle. They need to be wired on the correct point on the side of the mosfet.

Maybe this can be clarified, if this is correct.

Gesendet von meinem SM-S911B mit Tapatal
I agree, To me it appears that in the photos for this thread there is different wiring for the mosfet. I would assume either is correct as they are posted here but I am unsure why they are different. I am also curious if two mosfet is being recommended now also based on discussion I have seen as well as those same photo?
 
Not sure, but the mosfet wiring diagram are not 100% clear to me.
As far as I understand, the wires from the CPU won't be connected to the mosfet ground plate in the middle. They need to be wired on the correct point on the side of the mosfet.

Maybe this can be clarified, if this is correct.

Gesendet von meinem SM-S911B mit Tapatalk

The diagram is a first page.

I followed that.
The mosfet has the central part (the largest pad) of the common n with the 4 lateral pins.
I attach photos.
 

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where exactly

if they are linked yes
public.jpeg

okay so let me explain, where im supposed to connect the dat 0, i ripped the pad accidentally so what i did was drill a little bit so i could reveal the copper and did it like this, i know its ugly and i know this is definetly not how ur supposed to do it and thats its way too much solder but i just want to know if "it would work" also i ended up linking the one on the right side and wanted to ask if that was okay too.
 
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Not sure, but the mosfet wiring diagram are not 100% clear to me.
As far as I understand, the wires from the CPU won't be connected to the mosfet ground plate in the middle. They need to be wired on the correct point on the side of the mosfet.

Maybe this can be clarified, if this is correct.

Gesendet von meinem SM-S911B mit Tapatalk
Post automatically merged:

I agree, To me it appears that in the photos for this thread there is different wiring for the mosfet. I would assume either is correct as they are posted here but I am unsure why they are different. I am also curious if two mosfet is being recommended now also based on discussion I have seen as well as those same photo?
the so calledd Ground point is also called D pad and it is connected to 4 of the outer pins wich on uf u use to connect it directly so the caps
Post automatically merged:

The diagram is a first page.

I followed that.
The mosfet has the central part (the largest pad) of the common n with the 4 lateral pins.
I attach photos.
exactly see this diagramm
Post automatically merged:

public.jpeg

okay so let me explain, where im supposed to connect the dat 0, i ripped the pad accidentally so what i did was drill a little bit so i could reveal the copper and did it like this, i know its ugly and i know this is definetly not how ur supposed to do it and thats its way too much solder but i just want to know if "it would work" also i ended up linking the one on the right side and wanted to ask if that was okay too.
oh those yes that fine but how far did u drill down u might caught another layer
 
Last edited by Dee87,
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the so calledd Ground point is also called D pad and it is connected to 4 of the outer pins wich on uf u use to connect it directly so the caps
Post automatically merged:


exactly see this diagramm
Post automatically merged:


oh those yes that fine but how far did u drill down u might caught another layer
just barely, literally like tapped the board once to reveal the copper
 
Anyways, my switch was brand new, didnt even have it setup. (which may have been the mistake) anyways my picofly booted up normally (even ofw worked but i still havent set it up) so i went it to make an emunand and once the process started, my switch was gltiched and i saw a semi green screen but also the emmunand process at the same time (idk how to explain) anyways the chip still works, hakate now doesnt and my ofw is showing up a blue screen. Fml
 
Anyways, my switch was brand new, didnt even have it setup. (which may have been the mistake) anyways my picofly booted up normally (even ofw worked but i still havent set it up) so i went it to make an emunand and once the process started, my switch was gltiched and i saw a semi green screen but also the emmunand process at the same time (idk how to explain) anyways the chip still works, hakate now doesnt and my ofw is showing up a blue screen. Fml
Come on buddy, I know you're desperate here, but please don't double-post across topics. People will see your post and try to help, but spamming it across multiple threads won't help get any help quicker.

When you say "the chip still works, hakate now doesnt", does this mean that without an SD card in, the PicoFly screen comes up saying "No SD Card"?
 
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Come on buddy, I know you're desperate here, but please don't double-post across topics. People will see your post and try to help, but spamming it across multiple threads won't help get any help quicker.

When you say "the chip still works, hakate now doesnt", does this mean that without an SD card in, the PicoFly screen comes up saying "No SD Card"?
oh shit im so sorry my bad i didnt know that wasnt allowed and i wont do it again my apologies. and yes, thats what i mean by that sorry again for double posting.
 
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Ok, try reformatting your SD card, reload it with a HATS pack of some sort (google "sthetix HATS"), and see if you can get back into Hekate. Be sure your SD card board that plugs into the switch is well-connected. It's possible it may have had a poor connection while you were trying to backup things.
 
Ok, try reformatting your SD card, reload it with a HATS pack of some sort (google "sthetix HATS"), and see if you can get back into Hekate. Be sure your SD card board that plugs into the switch is well-connected. It's possible it may have had a poor connection while you were trying to backup things.
lol thats what i was using, ill try this, ill report back if anything happens
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Ok, try reformatting your SD card, reload it with a HATS pack of some sort (google "sthetix HATS"), and see if you can get back into Hekate. Be sure your SD card board that plugs into the switch is well-connected. It's possible it may have had a poor connection while you were trying to backup things.
got this beauty
 

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the so calledd Ground point is also called D pad and it is connected to 4 of the outer pins wich on uf u use to connect it directly so the caps
Post automatically merged:


exactly see this diagramm
Post automatically merged:


oh those yes that fine but how far did u drill down u might caught another layer
D I am assuming would stand for drain and s for source? If you see the following photo are contradicting in that regard. Which of these is correct? Is one a different mosfet?
Edit: image removed
 
Last edited by Smiles,
lol thats what i was using, ill try this, ill report back if anything happens
Post automatically merged:


got this beauty
Is it just the camera, or is the screen somewhat jumbled as well? I suggest going and cleaning all points of flux and if you removed any flex connectors while soldering, make sure they are properly reseated and clipped in place fully.

D I am assuming would stand for drain and s for source? If you see the following photo are contradicting in that regard. Which of these is correct? Is one a different mosfet?
Please see my v.2 guide for proper mosfet installation instead of pointing out contradicting images that we have been trying to kill for days at this point.
V.2 is here of the PicoFly install guide

https://easyupload.io/5zhege
If you wouldn't mind, please edit your post and remove the images so nobody else accidentally stumbles upon them in your post and get confused.
 
Is it just the camera, or is the screen somewhat jumbled as well? I suggest going and cleaning all points of flux and if you removed any flex connectors while soldering, make sure they are properly reseated and clipped in place fully.


Please see my v.2 guide for proper mosfet installation instead of pointing out contradicting images that we have been trying to kill for days at this point.

If you wouldn't mind, please edit your post and remove the images so nobody else accidentally stumbles upon them in your post and get confused.
are the troubleshoot lights supposed to stay on? or only appear for a a second. Because before hwat used to happen to me when it was working is that it would go blue, then cyan then blue then cyan and then red (green but mine came defective). After cleaning and fixing some points now it just goes blue then cyan then nothing and then boots to ofw (blue screen)
 

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