Picofly AIO Thread

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Same points as v1/v2, works same way. It doesn't matter whether it's patched or unpatched.
by the way hekate can work in a simple mode, without the touch GUI, Vol/Power navigation
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for restore you need to put them into backup/********/restore folder

BOOT0 regen is described here

probably the recovery mode (Vol+ & Vol- when booting OFW) may help, will test more ways when I have a free time
Thanks, I solved it with my backup thanks to you on the forum. :-)
 
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1681334538712.png

can i bridge this? its the clk for v2 (the right one, i wanna bridge the top and bottom to get an easier and more stable solder)
 
View attachment 364594
can i bridge this? its the clk for v2 (the right one, i wanna bridge the top and bottom to get an easier and more stable solder)
Yes, these points are bridged. How do I know? Because I ripped one of my CLK pads loose, and the console stopped booting, and I had to repair it with magnet wire and uv-cure resin.
 
Yes, these points are bridged. How do I know? Because I ripped one of my CLK pads loose, and the console stopped booting, and I had to repair it with magnet wire and uv-cure resin.
lol same but with my dat 0.... kill me that was so hard, especially with my shaky hands.
 
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lol same but with my dat 0.... kill me that was so hard, especially with my shaky hands.
Lmao, yeahhh, I started by ripping my DAT0, then ripped CLK in the process of repairing that. All told at this point, I had to repair three separate traces in my switch, and I blame it on using 30awg Kynar for the points instead of just using it for power and the leads from the mosfet to the caps. Coulda ran all my other points with my 40awg magnet wire and not have ripped any of the pads. -_-
 
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Lmao, yeahhh, I started by ripping my DAT0, then ripped CLK in the process of repairing that. All told at this point, I had to repair three separate traces in my switch, and I blame it on using 30awg Kynar for the points instead of just using it for power and the leads from the mosfet to the caps. Coulda ran all my other points with my 40awg magnet wire and not have ripped any of the pads. -_-
i have 36awg wire, but what does AWG really mean? like whats the difference between 40 and 36?
 
i have 36awg wire, but what does AWG really mean? like whats the difference between 40 and 36?
AWG is shorthand for American Wire Gauge, or people just call it "Gauge" for short. So 36 gauge wire, and 36awg are the same. 40 and 36 are nearly the same size, but 40 is slightly smaller. Think hair thickness for 36awg, and slightly thinner than a single strand of hair for 40awg.

EDIT: 69th post... nice
 
If i translate using google that disclaimer into my native language, it means that you and other member will be responsible for any kind of damage that happened. :D
I believe the issue that you are experiencing in translation is the use of the word "nor" earlier on in the statement.
Me nor any of the other temp members who helped make this happen will be held liable to any damage you cause your console in attempting to mod it.
Nor is a negative english modifier, which typically implies that all groups involved are negatively implicated in the following statement.

While technically the phrase could be re-written to something more along the lines of
I will not be held responsible or liable, nor will any of the other temp members who helped make this happen, should you cause any damage to your console in attempting to mod it.
But this starts to get a bit pedantic, as it is fairly common sense that someone else would not be responsible for one's own actions to mod a console.
 
I’m total noob. Once I do this mod and power on if successful will I see hamate immediately or do I need to prepare an sd card?
 

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