Picofly AIO Thread

naldo29

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For wire thickness, on what points should i use thicker wire instead of enameled wire? Only on Drain and ground right? Or am i missing another one.
 

Dee87

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about ground to chip?
0.2mm
Post automatically merged:

Grabbed a chip off another board and am just practicing with the stencil and paste.
Are u using magnets, cause they help u a lot just need to make sure they are level with the emmc chip and when u heat hold the middle of the chip then u will get good balls ;-)
 

BlueBeans

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0.2mm
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Are u using magnets, cause they help u a lot just need to make sure they are level with the emmc chip and when u heat hold the middle of the chip then u will get good balls ;-)
I am not using magnets…yet. Still have to figure a set up.
 

DuffGnR

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install an HWFLY chip (the old one without the RP2040 chip) and everything will get fixed ;)
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thanks for this clue dude :)

i've tried 3 RP2040 Zero chips, using fresh resitor each time... same result...
i've tried with firmware 2.55 and firmware 2.74 ... same result
i've tried with the new HWFly with RP2040 ... same result

is definitetly NOT an installtion problem -> mod go in hekate perfectly
is definitetly NOT an hardware probem (chip or switch) -> if i use an original HWfly everything works perfect

it's a software bug (i think) related with some specific switch oled model... for this i've ask to @rehius if i can provide any information to investigate further
I have exactly the same problem, I installed the RP2040 which is very similar to the HWFly model, however it boots in emunand and sometimes I can boot in OFW, but sometimes it hangs on the Nintendo Switch logo, other times it gives an error 2002-3539/3540, does anyone know how to solve this problem?
The famous slower mode phrase also appears when I try to make a backup of the nand or create a new emunanda or even do a benchmark of the emmc.
 

twins333

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I have exactly the same problem, I installed the RP2040 which is very similar to the HWFly model, however it boots in emunand and sometimes I can boot in OFW, but sometimes it hangs on the Nintendo Switch logo, other times it gives an error 2002-3539/3540, does anyone know how to solve this problem?
The famous slower mode phrase also appears when I try to make a backup of the nand or create a new emunanda or even do a benchmark of the emmc.
Use 2.73 firmware on the picofly. 2.74 has some clock speed issues and 2.73 is the recommended firmware version.
 

Dee87

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install an HWFLY chip (the old one without the RP2040 chip) and everything will get fixed ;)
Post automatically merged:



thanks for this clue dude :)

i've tried 3 RP2040 Zero chips, using fresh resitor each time... same result...
i've tried with firmware 2.55 and firmware 2.74 ... same result
i've tried with the new HWFly with RP2040 ... same result

is definitetly NOT an installtion problem -> mod go in hekate perfectly
is definitetly NOT an hardware probem (chip or switch) -> if i use an original HWfly everything works perfect

it's a software bug (i think) related with some specific switch oled model... for this i've ask to @rehius if i can provide any information to investigate further
2.74 is depriciatet try 2.73.
I can tell u I installed the pico on all variants of the oled and it works on everyone!Never had an issue what emmc are u using and what's ur board number.

I still stay its a installer issue
Post automatically merged:

I have exactly the same problem, I installed the RP2040 which is very similar to the HWFly model, however it boots in emunand and sometimes I can boot in OFW, but sometimes it hangs on the Nintendo Switch logo, other times it gives an error 2002-3539/3540, does anyone know how to solve this problem?
The famous slower mode phrase also appears when I try to make a backup of the nand or create a new emunanda or even do a benchmark of the emmc.
If u would read the guide properly u would know how to get ride if the slow emmc issue.
U need to add a resistor to get rid of the slow emmc ;-)
 

DuffGnR

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2.74 is depriciatet try 2.73.
I can tell u I installed the pico on all variants of the oled and it works on everyone!Never had an issue what emmc are u using and what's ur board number.

I still stay its a installer issue
Post automatically merged:


If u would read the guide properly u would know how to get ride if the slow emmc issue.
U need to add a resistor to get rid of the slow emmc ;-)
2.74 is depriciatet try 2.73.
I can tell u I installed the pico on all variants of the oled and it works on everyone!Never had an issue what emmc are u using and what's ur board number.

I still stay its a installer issue
Post automatically merged:


If u would read the guide properly u would know how to get ride if the slow emmc issue.
U need to add a resistor to get rid of the slow emmc ;-)
That's not the point.
I bought the chip that comes ready to go, just install.
The chip is very similar to the HWFly, the same pattern, but with the RP2040 system.
The issue of resistors had not been passed by the dealer or creators until this point, not in this new chip standard.
Anyway thank you for your attention.
 

snaker

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That's not the point.
I bought the chip that comes ready to go, just install.
The chip is very similar to the HWFly, the same pattern, but with the RP2040 system.
The issue of resistors had not been passed by the dealer or creators until this point, not in this new chip standard.
Anyway thank you for your attention.
The main issue with all these clones is that all of them use only one 47 ohm resistor on dat0 and cmd points.
Check my post here for this chip variant : https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10193823
Also you can check the attached picture for one more rp 2040 chip variant.
I dont know which chip you have but you must TRACE the A and C points find the 47 ohm resistors and add 2 more, one for each point. But make sure you have the correct soldering skills because most of these resistors are 0201 in size.

Your problems will be gone for sure. The issues you mention surelly are from missing resistors. It happened to me too. I think the 2 resistors must be used at all times and all rp 2040 chips. The other way is that if you use long wires on points A and C you might overcome the extra need of the two resistors. I have made this test too and it works but there is no need for risks if you have the resistors in hand.
 

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Dee87

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That's not the point.
I bought the chip that comes ready to go, just install.
The chip is very similar to the HWFly, the same pattern, but with the RP2040 system.
The issue of resistors had not been passed by the dealer or creators until this point, not in this new chip standard.
Anyway thank you for your attention.
yes that is the Point

well thats the whole issue with these clones and hwfly chips thats why i always say someone need to open a New thread for those chips and not "abuse" these threads cause these threads are made for the Original Picofly rp2040 zero and the other supported boards 2 and not those clones.
they just copy how it was done one gba and throw those chips out and hoping people will buy them without doing research.

the issue still stays the same u need to add some resistors.
the issue with some devices has been talked over more then enough times if u read threw the thread or use the search function u will find your answer.
Post automatically merged:

The main issue with all these clones is that all of them use only one 47 ohm resistor on dat0 and cmd points.
Check my post here for this chip variant : https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10193823
Also you can check the attached picture for one more rp 2040 chip variant.
I dont know which chip you have but you must TRACE the A and C points find the 47 ohm resistors and add 2 more, one for each point. But make sure you have the correct soldering skills because most of these resistors are 0201 in size.

Your problems will be gone for sure. The issues you mention surelly are from missing resistors. It happened to me too. I think the 2 resistors must be used at all times and all rp 2040 chips. The other way is that if you use long wires on points A and C you might overcome the extra need of the two resistors. I have made this test too and it works but there is no need for risks if you have the resistors in hand.
and here u have ur answer

thx @snaker
 
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MightySashiman

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I just completed modding an OLED switch with a RP2040 nano. Following Sthetix’s video and the guide, I did the initial check before the complete reassemble. Got the 3 colour success sequence and the no sd screen
Upon finishing the reassembly. When I power on (long press on Power button), I only boot to the OFW, as if the console was not chipped. Am I missing something?
 

QuiTim

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I just completed modding an OLED switch with a RP2040 nano. Following Sthetix’s video and the guide, I did the initial check before the complete reassemble. Got the 3 colour success sequence and the no sd screen
Upon finishing the reassembly. When I power on (long press on Power button), I only boot to the OFW, as if the console was not chipped. Am I missing something?
While I do admire Sthetix work and have watched his videos on numerous occasions, for Piko installation you should have gone with this guide found on the 1st page of this very thread that you are posting now.
Be that as it may, we need to see some photo/video of the installation and Pico boot light/code in order to be able to offer any kind of advice.
 

DuffGnR

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The main issue with all these clones is that all of them use only one 47 ohm resistor on dat0 and cmd points.
Check my post here for this chip variant : https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10193823
Also you can check the attached picture for one more rp 2040 chip variant.
I dont know which chip you have but you must TRACE the A and C points find the 47 ohm resistors and add 2 more, one for each point. But make sure you have the correct soldering skills because most of these resistors are 0201 in size.

Your problems will be gone for sure. The issues you mention surelly are from missing resistors. It happened to me too. I think the 2 resistors must be used at all times and all rp 2040 chips. The other way is that if you use long wires on points A and C you might overcome the extra need of the two resistors. I have made this test too and it works but there is no need for risks if you have the resistors in hand.
Thanks.
Im going to try.
 

beckman924

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What can be the issue if in diode mode I’m receiving less tan 400 in every point?. Or it could be my multimeter malfunctioning?
 

dewolf

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I have exactly the same problem, I installed the RP2040 which is very similar to the HWFly model, however it boots in emunand and sometimes I can boot in OFW, but sometimes it hangs on the Nintendo Switch logo, other times it gives an error 2002-3539/3540, does anyone know how to solve this problem?
The famous slower mode phrase also appears when I try to make a backup of the nand or create a new emunanda or even do a benchmark of the emmc.

the RP2040 have nothing to do with the HWFLY, install the old version with ARM chip and where you can flash the NX firmware... and everything will get fixed :)
 
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Dee87

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the RP2040 have nothing to do with the HWFLY, install the old version with ARM chip and where you can flash the NX firmware... and everything will get fixed :)
Same answer here

Hwfly is not the answer for everything just install a rp2040 zero/tiny with the proper firmware and resistors and u won't have a issue.
..........
 
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aparitxi

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Hi all, i had a rp tiny installed working fine and one day the switch stopped working. After opening it and searching for the problem i found a ripped clk pad (see the picture) now i dont know what is the best option to repair it, i tried to apply flux and solder tin to make a bridge but did not work.
Maybe scratch the tracks and solder replace pads i saw in aliexpress (see the photo). Now i removed the rp and all the wires but the switch still not working, i hope it will work after repairing the clk track.
What should i do in your opinion? Thank you
 

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QuiTim

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Hi all, i had a rp tiny installed working fine and one day the switch stopped working. After opening it and searching for the problem i found a ripped clk pad (see the picture) now i dont know what is the best option to repair it, i tried to apply flux and solder tin to make a bridge but did not work.
Maybe scratch the tracks and solder replace pads i saw in aliexpress (see the photo). Now i removed the rp and all the wires but the switch still not working, i hope it will work after repairing the clk track.
What should i do in your opinion? Thank you
You could use those or you can just use a thin piece of wire.
Just scratch a little bit of solder mask very carefuly from both ends (marked in yellow) and attach a piece of wire (like the red line).
Those points dont seem to go through the board so you should be ok.
Will check the board scans in the meantime to confirm
 

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