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A few pictures of the installation are attached to this post.
Yeah, the cmd wire does a little turn because I soldered it the wrong way.
Attachments
Don't rush, try to find the others, reviews, etc.
Before buy a tool, i usually research on it on the net, for one month, to find the suitable one.
That pinecil kind of model is small. I don't think the power is enough to, for example solder a gnd pad, like those squared pad besides apu.
Post automatically merged:
This is legit
https://github.com/sparkybg/UniSolder-5.2
Open source, open hardware, its sweet.
Seems pricey though.
im a bit curious can you corrupt nand from shorting the emmc dat0 or other cause? i have one OLED that seems have that case, after instal pico cannot boot OFW, can enter hekate with no sd screen etc but when you try make emunand emmc cannot read,
sysnand cfw also wont launch
sysnand cfw also wont launch
Hello.
I successfully modified an OLED, yet I spent an entire day trying to figure out why it won't turn on as soon as the outer shield touches it. After a frustrating trial and error, when I bent up the shield that was touching the USB port, it worked.
Share your thoughts, This was one hell of an OLED.
The pico is not touching the shield in anyway, it was cut.
I successfully modified an OLED, yet I spent an entire day trying to figure out why it won't turn on as soon as the outer shield touches it. After a frustrating trial and error, when I bent up the shield that was touching the USB port, it worked.
Share your thoughts, This was one hell of an OLED.
The pico is not touching the shield in anyway, it was cut.
Bsod ussualy comes from short with ground.
You can test while bsod just plug the charger and feel anywhere heated? or its just charge dont work?
Posibble solution.
1. Try replacing any enameled wires used in the mod, it can be from that (invisible issue).
2. Try to double/triple layer the kapton insulation around pico.
You must desolder it from the board and solder it onto the adapter, do your job and then resolder it on the main board.
Of course you must do reballing at least when soldering back to the board.
Last edited by snaker,
this one is good https://aliexpress.com/item/1005004988231500.html and later on you can invest in some genuine tips as well
I know what the exact answer is, i should have added a /j
But how many people here are confident enough to reball, I mean if you can't get to hekate or you are trying to revert to full stock with an unmodified boot file I guess.
Don't rush, try to find the others, reviews, etc.
Before buy a tool, i usually research on it on the net, for one month, to find the suitable one.
That pinecil kind of model is small. I don't think the power is enough to, for example solder a gnd pad, like those squared pad besides apu.
Post automatically merged:
This is legit
https://github.com/sparkybg/UniSolder-5.2
Open source, open hardware, its sweet.
Seems pricey though.
So high temperature is the trick to solder to that square pad?
Look i have stated my opinion many times that if you find good dat0 adapters and solder then properly, there is no need at all to reball the emmc chip and you save your time. But that said if you mod lot of consoles and consider yourself , lets don't say a professional, someone who wants to be sure that if things go wrong you will have a solution for your customer or friend who entrusted you with his/her console, you must know how to reball. Let's face it, there is some probability that things might eventually go wrong and at that time you may need to fix a corrupted boot0 boot1 portition. That is why most of the people if not all that mod lot of consoles must have this tool and know how to reball an emmc chip. You can't just pray that every single time everything will come out just fine even if you are the best in the world. You must always anticipate everything you can.
Last edited by snaker,
High temperature and the solder device must have ability to supply the heat (heat transfer velocity) also bigger tip might help.
If your device is low power solder, you might get 300degrees in your tip when not touching anything, but when you solder it to the pad, your tip will instantly drop to 200degrees. Theres a flow of heat in there. And the pad take the heat more faster than the solder could give, hence the solder can't joint. (Analogue to a water pump you need a good pump to supply the heat continuously)
Also analogue to water, if your tip is small, then the heat that could flows also small. So the trick is, use a high degree celsius around 390, use big tip (blade, D shape), and use a better powered station in the range of 70-100watt.
the trick is to avoid it at all cost and find easier spot like the chasis, less hasle and low risk of damaging the soc from high temp
Agreed. I don't know why people obsessed with that squared pad.
Use the shield, is lot easier.
I wish I knew! Are people getting these things really hot??? As I said before, I'm not an expert in this area, but it would seem to be that a lot of other components would be much more sensitive to a non-ESD safe soldering iron than a resistor.
I need some input., please help to reason,
As of now the difference between manual picofly vs hwfly rp core is only $10 price apart, also many or some of potential cust are avoiding the manual one, either by knowledge or by listening to the pro hwfly people.
Also please somebody who already tried rpcore explain the quality with this version vs hwfly non rp. also vs the manual pico install with wires.
Is it logical enough for me to switch into rpcore? as the diff in price will be passed on to customer.
Please.
As of now the difference between manual picofly vs hwfly rp core is only $10 price apart, also many or some of potential cust are avoiding the manual one, either by knowledge or by listening to the pro hwfly people.
Also please somebody who already tried rpcore explain the quality with this version vs hwfly non rp. also vs the manual pico install with wires.
Is it logical enough for me to switch into rpcore? as the diff in price will be passed on to customer.
Please.
An update: Unfortunately installing mosfets in this way made no difference for my glitch times
Still randomly glitches super slow and other times glitches in 1-2 seconds. So far I have tried two different HWFLY flex cables, single mosfet and dual mosfet and there is no real difference between any of them for me. I was resetting training data and letting the chip train upto 20 times for each configuration I tried. It took ages lol. Thanks for help anyway! I wonder if my CPU is just hard to glitch?Similar threads
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SylverReZ:
The pcTattletale situation was really damning. Nobody was arsed to do any strong security for their monitoring app. -
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SylverReZ:
@Xdqwerty, It was a monitoring application designed to monitor the activity of phones and computers (also known as "stalkware"). Somebody managed to hack into the company's Amazon web server and leaked the personal data of people using the program, they went out of business after this.
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SylverReZ:
There was a HUGE vulnerability allowing somebody to grab raw unencrypted screenshots without them enforcing any form of security added using a simple Python script. The passwords for the accounts were MD5 hashed, so fairly easy to crack.
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SylverReZ:
@Xdqwerty, Yeah, its wild especially for a company who aren't aware. You know what they say, you fuck around and find out.+1
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