It is correct. That is why i said its the most difficult one. I am using hdmi microscope to solder it. Can't imagine only using magnifying glass, or only using direct eye.@Phantomas77
am i bought the wrong mosfet ?
my mosfet sooo tiny ???
i cant even read the text hehehehhe lol
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ant-man help!!
It looks like the right model, at least there're "8342" numbers written. You need microscope for soldering these, better go with Flex cables if you aren't confident yet.@Phantomas77
am i bought the wrong mosfet ?
my mosfet sooo tiny ???
i cant even read the text hehehehhe lol
View attachment 365515
View attachment 365516
View attachment 365517
ant-man help!!
they are 2mmx2mm, better than a 0201 cap if you meant to deal with@Phantomas77
am i bought the wrong mosfet ?
my mosfet sooo tiny ???
i cant even read the text hehehehhe lol
View attachment 365515
View attachment 365516
View attachment 365517
ant-man help!!
Yeah its this:I did get a screenshot when I first found it, but it’s gone now
won't burn? when soldering to the mosfet?It is correct. That is why i said its the most difficult one. I am using hdmi microscope to solder it. Can't imagine only using magnifying glass, or only using direct eye.
won't burn? when soldering to the mosfet?
:v
Its difficult, need experience. Use lot of flux, to spread the heat.won't burn? when soldering to the mosfet?
:v
yes. i tested zoom using my smartphone....If you want some cheap stuff, you might used old LG G5 handphone
Its difficult, need experience. Use lot of flux, to spread the heat.
If you want a cheap solution, use handphone. Lot of 2nd smartphone has a decent camera. This is the maximum zoom LG G5 could take. I use it to photo the switch and the voltage regulator rp2040 i took off. Its better than using direct eye, or magnifying glass. If you lucky you could get a 2nd G5 for only around $20.
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that's not LCD connector but its the backlight and left side D-PADS and power button....question:
does picofly detect if LCD is functioning or not? does it have an effect on pico's operation?
the locking mech on the LCD (?) flat cable came loose and i think this is what causing the PINK LED (?) have to test further...
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but when i applied pressure on the connector (still without the locking mech) lite lcd still working ( thank God! )
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..now how to put the locking mech back....
For the mosfet only soldering iron. To be precise solder station, to target precisely the temperature. The difficult one is melting the tin onto the caps. Maybe the caps goes to heat sink or high temp tin. Its difficult to blend (melted) with our tin. Normally i use 300C, for this kind of work, i increse to 350C, yet still its not that good enough to melt it. Increase it more, i worry to ripped the pad.yes. i tested zoom using my smartphone....
did you use heatgun ? or just regular soldering iron ?
for the mosfet?
ohh, thought it was... although i wonder if that being disconnected has an effect on the Pico, hence me getting Pink LED after checking all wires are OK...?that's not LCD connector but its the backlight and left side D-PADS and power button
No, nothing else would effect on pico except the soldering. The glitch sequence still works with only battery connected+power button pushohh, thought it was... although i wonder if that being disconnected has an effect on the Pico, hence me getting Pink LED after checking all wires are OK...?
..I'll try to re assemble again tomorrow (2 am here)
Thanks, I'll try again tomorrow...No, nothing else would effect on pico except the soldering. The glitch sequence still works with only battery connected+power button push
Tried it. It didn't work. Still a black screen a second after the logo appears.https://rentry.org/MarikoEmuNAND
Have you tried 'Warmboot Error Fix' to boot to ofw?
Thanks, I'll try again tomorrow...