Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[abal1000x]

The dat0 pad still bothers me, because I don't particularly know what the expected default value is for a regular dat0 connection.

My current dat0 connection value, post reconstruction is 655 on the continuity scale. The others (CMD and CLK) are above 700~780. I know that there is a connection between my reconstruction and the alternative DAT0 point, as that is where the picofly wire is soldered. But I'm not sure if the DAT0 pad is connected.

The diode mode check is only cheap detection, it could be false positive.

Unfortunately to check it correctly you need to take off the emmc. And check the continuity between the Dat0 pin and the Dat0 right Pad to make sure the connection from the emmc to the cpu is good.

 

[tsukimaru]

Yes, Blue screen of death. I used a dual mosfet array as always and it's a coin toss at this point. I made sure I applied all the tips you guys have shared with me here (check for shorts before powering on, making sure just the necessary amount is tinned, etc) and still dies.

At this point I'm done with this mod but I want to know if there's any way I can get those consoles back since I've burned near 600USD in replacing damaged boards.

Anything on this guys? I'm super desperate to know if it can be done or if it's a lost cause :'(

 

[Mr Skinner]

The diode mode check is only cheap detection, it could be false positive.

Unfortunately to check it correctly you need to take off the emmc. And check the continuity between the Dat0 pin and the Dat0 right Pad to make sure the connection from the emmc to the cpu is good.

Means Reballing right?

 

[abal1000x]

Means Reballing right?

Eventually you will reballed it after take it off.

 

[cgtchy0412]

Anything on this guys? I'm super desperate to know if it can be done or if it's a lost cause :'(

Try to check and replace resistor on cmd trace .. it maybe break internally.

 

[abal1000x]

Man this seems all messed up. When I put black on S and red on D I get 50ohm. When I black on G and red on D I get 50ohm.

I might forgot the value for v1.
But i am sure for lite and v2 its 12ohms, since i've done this last week.

And i am sure G and D is high, maybe not in MOhms, but i remember its a high resistance.

That mosfet is like cockroach, shouldn't be easily damaged. But seeing your beautiful solder, it left with the probability that the mosfet is damaged.

 

[BlueBeans]

I might forgot the value for v1.
But i am sure for lite and v2 its 12ohms, since i've done this last week.

And i am sure G and D is high, maybe not in MOhms, but i remember its a high resistance.

That mosfet is like cockroach, shouldn't be easily damaged. But seeing your beautiful solder, it left with the probability that the mosfet is damaged.

But that would mean I damage it every time. How is that possible?

 

[abal1000x]

But that would mean I damage it every time. How is that possible?

Why you mean damage everytime?

 

[BlueBeans]

Why you mean damage everytime?

every single time i mod a switch i get the same error code. ==* and then i add the SDA/SCL lines, and it works. but I was told that i shouldnt even be getting that error let alone every single time. I was wondering if Both S/GND on the mosfet need to be connected to the cpu GND or just one? I have only been connecting one. Idk if that would make a difference.

Post automatically merged: Jun 15, 2023

every single time i mod a switch i get the same error code. ==* and then i add the SDA/SCL lines, and it works. but I was told that i shouldnt even be getting that error let alone every single time. I was wondering if Both S/GND on the mosfet need to be connected to the cpu GND or just one? I have only been connecting one. Idk if that would make a difference.

Well I went ahead and connected both points on the mosfet and then to the cpu and it made no difference. when installed should D and S have continuity between them? Because they don’t when it’s not connected to the board.

 

[abal1000x]

every single time i mod a switch i get the same error code. ==* and then i add the SDA/SCL lines, and it works. but I was told that i shouldnt even be getting that error let alone every single time. I was wondering if Both S/GND on the mosfet need to be connected to the cpu GND or just one? I have only been connecting one. Idk if that would make a difference.

The first time i do this mod, like 3-4 month ago.
I check the characteristics of the cap which will be modded.

First the resistance between its pin (the cap), is 12 Ohms. The measurement will start from 0 then slowly increase until 12 ohms.

Measure the resistance of S part of the cap to GND its zero ohm. Means the S part is connected to the GND of the system. You could measure to any GND on the board, and its zero ohms.

Then measure the resistance between two cap, the D part on both cap is zero ohm. And the S part on both cap is zero ohms. Means the capacitor is paralelly connected.

So the conclusion is just use one cap is enough. The circuit behind the cpu board will connect it to the other cap, i rely on that circuit. And we need not necessary to solder the S part of cap, or the squared pad, just soldered it to GND which the best option is the shield. So the D mosfet goes to One cap and the S goes to GND shield. And the G goes to the pico.


Editted:
The characteristics resistance of the mosfet before you soldered it. All combination is high resistance (D-S, D-G, S-G). That is what is in my memory, but i have bad memory, age strike. So pardon me, if i am wrong. But the characteristics is important for us as a cheap detection whether the mosfet is alright or damaged.

 

[BlueBeans]

The first time i do this mod, like 3-4 month ago.
I check the characteristics of the cap which will be modded.

First the resistance between its pin (the cap), is 12 Ohms. The measurement will start from 0 then slowly increase until 12 ohms.

Measure the resistance of S part of the cap to GND its zero ohm. Means the S part is connected to the GND of the system. You could measure to any GND on the board, and its zero ohms.

Then measure the resistance between two cap, the D part on both cap is zero ohm. And the S part on both cap is zero ohms. Means the capacitor is paralelly connected.

So the conclusion is just use one cap is enough. The circuit behind the cpu board will connect it to the other cap, i rely on that circuit. And we need not necessary to solder the S part of cap, or the squared pad, just soldered it to GND which the best option is the shield. So the D mosfet goes to One cap and the S goes to GND shield. And the G goes to the pico.


Editted:
The characteristics resistance of the mosfet before you soldered it. All combination is high resistance (D-S, D-G, S-G). That is what is in my memory, but i have bad memory, age strike. So pardon me, if i am wrong. But the characteristics is important for us as a cheap detection whether the mosfet is alright or damaged.

SO then i should just try connecting to 1 cap? is that what you do?

Post automatically merged: Jun 15, 2023

The first time i do this mod, like 3-4 month ago.
I check the characteristics of the cap which will be modded.

First the resistance between its pin (the cap), is 12 Ohms. The measurement will start from 0 then slowly increase until 12 ohms.

Measure the resistance of S part of the cap to GND its zero ohm. Means the S part is connected to the GND of the system. You could measure to any GND on the board, and its zero ohms.

Then measure the resistance between two cap, the D part on both cap is zero ohm. And the S part on both cap is zero ohms. Means the capacitor is paralelly connected.

So the conclusion is just use one cap is enough. The circuit behind the cpu board will connect it to the other cap, i rely on that circuit. And we need not necessary to solder the S part of cap, or the squared pad, just soldered it to GND which the best option is the shield. So the D mosfet goes to One cap and the S goes to GND shield. And the G goes to the pico.


Editted:
The characteristics resistance of the mosfet before you soldered it. All combination is high resistance (D-S, D-G, S-G). That is what is in my memory, but i have bad memory, age strike. So pardon me, if i am wrong. But the characteristics is important for us as a cheap detection whether the mosfet is alright or damaged.

can you post a pic of one of your installs on a v1?

 

[abal1000x]

SO then i should just try connecting to 1 cap? is that what you do?

Yes 1 cap.
Its also the original configuration, if you follow the development.
Look in the important post, there is still image in there.

 

[BlueBeans]

Yes 1 cap.
Its also the original configuration, if you follow the development.
Look in the important post, there is still image in there.
View attachment 378030View attachment 378031View attachment 378032

this is how you install yours?

 

[abal1000x]

this is how you install yours?

No.
That is the first development.
Problem is you couldn't close the shield smoothly.
Without the shield, theres will be heat issue.

Later, people cleverly put it on the right side, and everything happy.
Problem is you need to deliver the high current through the cable. So the cable to D mosfet or GND to S mosfet, must big enough so the glitch worked. And i experiment on it. 0.1mm doesn't work. 0.2mm sometimes work sometimes not. 0.3 mm works.

As long you confident that the G is connected. Then the problem lay whether the D/S cable is good enough to steal the power, or do the mosfet working properly as it should be to steal the power from the cpu power line.

 

[BlueBeans]

No.
That is the first development.
Problem is you couldn't close the shield smoothly.
Without the shield, theres will be heat issue.

Later, people cleverly put it on the right side, and everything happy.
Problem is you need to deliver the high current through the cable. So the cable to D mosfet or GND to S mosfet, must big enough so the glitch worked. And i experiment on it. 0.1mm doesn't work. 0.2mm sometimes work sometimes not. 0.3 mm works.

As long you confident that the G is connected. Then the problem lay whether the D/S cable is good enough to steal the power, or do the mosfet working properly as it should be to steal the power from the cpu power line.

ok i will order 0.3mm Is that the equivalent to 30awg?

 

[abal1000x]

ok i will order 0.3mm Is that the equivalent to 30awg?

I am not suggesting that. 0.3mm might ripped your cap pad.

Use u-shaped 0.2mm is the same with 2x0.2mm = 0.4mm cable.

The 0.2 mm i bought from aliexpress seems like similar with yours.
Its seems fake. Not a pure copper. That is why i try to solve it using U-shape cable to increase the maximum current it could deliver.

 

[BlueBeans]

I am not suggesting that. 0.3mm might ripped your cap pad.

so then what should i do? I am at a loss and i need to get this back to the customer.

Post automatically merged: Jun 15, 2023

I am not suggesting that. 0.3mm might ripped your cap pad.

Use u-shaped 0.2mm is the same with 2x0.2mm = 0.4mm cable.

The 0.2 mm i bought from aliexpress seems like similar with yours.
Its seems fake. Not a pure copper. That is why i try to solve it using U-shape cable to increase the maximum current it could deliver.

should i just try the single mosfet and go from there?

Post automatically merged: Jun 15, 2023

so then what should i do? I am at a loss and i need to get this back to the customer.

Post automatically merged: Jun 15, 2023

should i just try the single mosfet and go from there?

so you would go from D to the top of one cap then to the bottom and back to S? and then G to 15?

Post automatically merged: Jun 15, 2023

I am not suggesting that. 0.3mm might ripped your cap pad.

Use u-shaped 0.2mm is the same with 2x0.2mm = 0.4mm cable.

The 0.2 mm i bought from aliexpress seems like similar with yours.
Its seems fake. Not a pure copper. That is why i try to solve it using U-shape cable to increase the maximum current it could deliver.

can you post a pic of your work? i think I've seen it but i cant seem to find the picture.

 

[abal1000x]

so then what should i do? I am at a loss and i need to get this back to the customer.

Post automatically merged: Jun 15, 2023

should i just try the single mosfet and go from there?

My cheap suggestion.

Take wire from a cable you've known the quality. Usually earphone use a good quality wire, if you have broken earphone.

(I once have a jumper cable i usually use on arduino. And i am sure its pure copper. I take the insulated plastic off, inside theres lot of cable. I took one, its around 0.3mm. And i use it when desperate).

Add/replace using that wire on the D line. And add more cable to the S of the mosfet to GND.

 

[BlueBeans]

My cheap suggestion.

Take wire from a cable you've known the quality. Usually earphone use a good quality wire, if you have broken earphone.

(I once have a jumper cable i usually use on arduino. And i am sure its pure copper. I take the insulated plastic off, inside theres lot of cable. I took one, its around 0.3mm. And i use it when desperate).

Add/replace using that wire on the D line. And add more cable to the S of the mosfet to GND.

ill see what i can find. If you could post a pic of yours that would be awesome.

 

[Dee87]

What points are we talking about here