I checked it by wiring the 3.3v and ground. It is working fine blue and then yellow light. I think it is good to go. Because I'm worried about the pads being shorted out.
Edit: I removed the port using a soldering iron. Because I don't have a heat gun.
Two long debug pulses. CLK is connected properly. What could be a problem? How do i check if mosfets connected?
P.S. Yeah, i know, it's messy. But everything connected properly.
It's the one I thought, I already checked it and it doesn't seem to be dirty, I turned it on while I was pressing the connector and nothing, I made a video showing the failure
Correct, the guide has not been updated to the newest LED flashes for firmware 2.70 and up. That is a fairly recent release, and in that same pinned post, there is an explanation of the new LED flashes.
So I tried the SDA/SCL points on a switch lite with v2.72 (single mosfet, single cap) and received.... much worse glitch timings? now it's 10-50s, up from 3-30s. confusing.
I followed the traces and the points certainly match the pins on the MAX77812EWB+ chip at least, and all measurements are good.
I had an OLED-Sammy that was working w\ 2x FETs (-3sec glitch, I'm always one-cap install), updated to 2.7, removed a FET and it stopped working (==*). Soldered SDA\SCL and it was back to -3sec glitch. FETs were 2202As taken from a flex cable.
It is thin enough to fit under the shield without any bulge. The green adapter comes pre-balled on both sides so there's no reballing needed.
The installation process is:
- Detach emmc (add flux around it, then heat 160c 1 minute, 260c 1 minute, 360c 1 minute, then 400c for a few seconds until it detaches if it hasn't already)
- Clean emmc pads on the motherboard with solder wick
- Clean emmc with solder wick
- Add flux to the emmc pads on the motherboard and align green adapter on top. heat 160c 1 minute, 260c 1 minute, 360c 1 minute. Then it should be nicely attached.
- add flux on emmc pads on top of the green adapter and align emmc on top. heat 160c 1 minute, 260c 1 minute, 360c 1 minute. Then it should be nicely attached.
- solder dat0, clk, cmd wires on the nice, large solder pads of the green adapter.
I've been wondering about this adapter but have since moved onto @Dee87's stance of 'just set a fkn dat0 line yourself'. Your experience w\ this adapter was the only thing that made reading these past few pages worth it to me though XD
To you and all the other people who expect instantaneous updates on a guide which was made for free, on my time that I spend after work, for an update that is still LARGELY BEING TESTED, I find it ridiculous that you're incapable of reading the exact updated info that I am going to paste into my guide, FROM THE DEV'S POST HIMSELF where you should be downloading the latest Alpha firmwares ANYWAY.
I digress, I was in the process of updating the guide, but I think I'm going to spend some time smoking a couple bowls and evaluating how much I actually enjoy helping entitled folks who can't help themselves.
Note: this post is not meant for all the appreciative people who have used my guide to LEARN how to do this process, instead of just expecting everything to be handed to them on a platter. To you, ROCK ON, and keep doing magnificent mods.
2nd EDIT: @LogicalMadness See?! OLED EASY!! You should be modding them in under 30 minutes apiece! /S
Seriously, solid mod and decent enough camera work to illustrate what you are doing. Skilled permanent Dat0 placement, and unmodded APU shield CLK wire install, QUITE impressive.
It occurred to me to connect it to the dock and make it work in original mode, and indeed it works correctly, does that mean that the problem is with the connector, or could it be something else?
To you and all the other people who expect instantaneous updates on a guide which was made for free, on my time that I spend after work, for an update that is still LARGELY BEING TESTED, I find it ridiculous that you're incapable of reading the exact updated info that I am going to paste into my guide, FROM THE DEV'S POST HIMSELF where you should be downloading the latest Alpha firmwares ANYWAY.
I digress, I was in the process of updating the guide, but I think I'm going to spend some time smoking a couple bowls and evaluating how much I actually enjoy helping entitled folks who can't help themselves.
Note: this post is not meant for all the appreciative people who have used my guide to LEARN how to do this process, instead of just expecting everything to be handed to them on a platter. To you, ROCK ON, and keep doing magnificent mods.
Seriously, I can't read these threads like I did when the glitch dropped a few months ago. I let it deteriorate my mental too easily, just like playing LoL or driving in SoCal. I try to just keep scrolling now, someone else will eventually help them, hopefully it's themselves :\
It occurred to me to connect it to the dock and make it work in original mode, and indeed it works correctly, does that mean that the problem is with the connector, or could it be something else?
Welp, since the display output is working through the dock, that leaves it being either the connector for the flex on board, the flex itself going to the screen, or the screen itself is damaged.
Two long debug pulses. CLK is connected properly. What could be a problem? How do i check if mosfets connected?
P.S. Yeah, i know, it's messy. But everything connected properly.
v2.0 + Active MMC communication
v2.1 + Toshiba support
v2.2 + Fix Toshiba boot fail
v2.3 + SanDisk support
v2.4 + Faster Toshiba boot
v2.5 + fix OFW boot
v2.6 + software update, xiao & itsy support
v2.61 + Instinct-NX sdloader, bug fixes
v2.62 + Make 16.0.1 happy (fix OFW boot)
v2.63 + roll back some 2.62 boot speed tricks
v2.64 + enable back the board detection
v2.65 + RP Pico support, double reset removed
v2.66 + Bypass to OFW after update for proper fuse burning
v2.67 + Don't bypass to OFW on first install
v2.70 + new LED indication, i2c undervoltage hack
v2.71 + support for SQc open-source board
v2.72 + disable CLK check, it's unstable
= is long pulse, * is short pulse:
= USB flashing done
** RST is not connected
*= CMD is not connected
=* D0 is not connected
== CLK is not connected
=** eMMC init failure during glitch process
=*= CPU never reach BCT check, should not happen
==* CPU always reach BCT check (no glitch reaction, check mosfet)
=== Glitch attempt limit reached, cannot glitch
If your glitch is unstable (==* error), and the proper boot happens only when you press Reset after joycon logo, you can add two more wires to make glitch much better.
Q: rp2040 boards support
A: WaveShare 2040-zero/one, xiao-rp2040, adafruit itsybitsy (Pi Pico is not supportedfor now)
Q: GREEN, but instant reset
A: Clean flux near the RST point
Q: Do I really need 47 Ohm resistors?
A: You can skip them, however in this case you will have to use emuMMC due to the line interference, sysNAND would not boot (sysNAND data can be damaged).
Q: Does the firmware has learning? How to reset statistics
A: Short pin 0 to either 1 or GND during start for chip reset. The statistics is collected each boot. The more you start it - the better it boots.
v2.5 firmware had a bug with BOOT0 corruption. To recover it:
- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- update to the latest official firmware over Wi-Fi
- boot "Full Stock" using hekate
- perform a full system reset
- show firmware information
- update firmware from SD card (place update.bin into the root folder)
- rollback to the backup firmware slot
- reset learning statistics
- dump / write sdloader
if you have an rp2040-zero from waveshare/ali then it has a neopixel. It is used for diagnosing proper firmware flashes as well as console glitching. If you plug it in, and flash the uf2 firmware to it and immediately see a red light after flashing (this is not the same as flashing, then unplugging and replugging), then no rgb jumper needs to be made. If on the other hand, you get one quick green flashing light, then you need to bridge the jumper pads indicated to swap the LED colors for proper diagnoses capability.
Welp, since the display output is working through the dock, that leaves it being either the connector for the flex on board, the flex itself going to the screen, or the screen itself is damaged.
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