No, you need 47 Ohm resistors, not 47kOhm.
Also I can only advice you to buy "Lackkupferdraht" in 0.1mm and 0.3mm respectively for the installation and cpu mosfet instead of the wires you've put into your cart.
Just a heads up (as I've just learned this as well), you can use the nintendo switch's native screenshot button on the joycon to snap a screenshot to /bootloader/screenshots of Hekate.
i know but the only way u get that image is when u dont have a SdCard In it ;-)
or did u mean because i made a pic with the phone ....yeah well havent thought about it at that moment XD
still not perfekt but im getting some where Xd
Last edited by Dee87,
just got everything installed but instead of booting into hekate I keep getting a yellow led indication.
I believe everything is connected well and tried to change a few solder point for D0 (cuz yellow for bad D0) but I’m getting the same issue.
anything I did wrong?
I believe everything is connected well and tried to change a few solder point for D0 (cuz yellow for bad D0) but I’m getting the same issue.
anything I did wrong?
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I managed to fix my erista switch but can't get the alternate RST to work or something else is going on. But at least it works, so I ordered a hwfly for it and will install that. I'll try my hand at installing a picofly again some day. At least I know it works if installed properly, seen it with my own eyes 
u think the hwfly is gonna make a difference if u dont get a rst connection it also needs it :-)I managed to fix my erista switch but can't get the alternate RST to work or something else is going on. But at least it works, so I ordered a hwfly for it and will install that. I'll try my hand at installing a picofly again some day. At least I know it works if installed properly, seen it with my own eyes
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check for continuity between the D0 cables....
and make sure there are no bridges
After days of blood, sweat and pain, I managed to install the mod succesfully and boot into Hekate and Sysnand without issues.
HOWEVER: on the first boot, I heard something deep frying and saw a little bit of smoke, probably from one of the apu capacitors. That's the only time when such thing happened and everything seems to work just fine. I read on this same thread that such thing happened to rehius when he forgot the ground cable. I re-checked the gnd connection and all looks good. The issue hasn't happened since.
Should I be concerned and search for some specific issue that I may have overseen?
Also: I was on 2.6a. If I want to update, do I just have to flash 2.61 over it or would it be better to wipe the 2040-zero clean and then flashing afterwards?
HOWEVER: on the first boot, I heard something deep frying and saw a little bit of smoke, probably from one of the apu capacitors. That's the only time when such thing happened and everything seems to work just fine. I read on this same thread that such thing happened to rehius when he forgot the ground cable. I re-checked the gnd connection and all looks good. The issue hasn't happened since.
Should I be concerned and search for some specific issue that I may have overseen?
Also: I was on 2.6a. If I want to update, do I just have to flash 2.61 over it or would it be better to wipe the 2040-zero clean and then flashing afterwards?
magic smoke is never good if it came from the apu caps then u prob fried a cap and had some bridging going on i would check for proper soldering on that cap an try to resolve that issue befor u "just" keep using it
just flash 2.61 on the rp or use update.bin and pico toolbox if u already desolderd the usb
Looked white to me, but of course I was panicking a the time and I may not remember correctly
A good ending would be if it was only some residual fresh flux getting burnt, but I don't think that the temperature could be THAT hot
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Of course I triple checked the flex cable and both SP1 and SP2, but there's no obvious short or bad soldering. And everything just works, so I'm pretty confused but feels a bit scary to just close everything after that
check if u get some reading from the cap and make sure there is no bridging how did u install the mosfet?Looked white to me, but of course I was panicking a the time and I may not remember correctly
A good ending would be if it was only some residual fresh flux getting burnt, but I don't think that the temperature could be THAT hot
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Of course I triple checked the flex cable and both SP1 and SP2, but there's no obvious short or bad soldering. And everything just works, so I'm pretty confused but feels a bit scary to just close everything after that
def not flux
Didn't use a mosfet, just went the easy way with the hwfly flex
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