place picotoolbox in bootloader/payloads folder
start the switch in hekate go to payload then start picofly toolbox
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well if they are connected anyway shouldnt be a problemIs it ok to short those two 3.3v points? (I do get continuity between them, but it never hurts to ask about it)
Also: Is it safe to boot up the Switch without the cpu plate and heatsink back on? Of course I mean just for testing if the install is alright and then turning it off again. I've seen it being done in some videos, but you never know
yeah u can boot without backplate and heat sink just dont do it to long otherwise u will over heat ur apu
amazon.com/dp/B08RYMY6XK/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=&linkCode=w00&linkId=&creativeASIN=B08RYMY6XK
It's like putting another extra 999 resistors from whats needed. Try to solder the 1206, maybe put some oriented to the external part of the pico, alternating between sides (internal external), should fit.
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You literally select "Update" with the VOL buttons, press Power to confirm, and the screen blips for half a second, then it's done.
Does the led on the rp2040 is supposed to turn red when you flash the .bin with toolbox like when you flash with the uf2 file?
can anyone explain how to configure the led on the rp2040? do we need to solder some jumper on the chip?
Only if you get a green light immediately after programming. In this case, bridge the two pads like the pic.
Attachments
Exactly, when I program the chip, a green light appears and then goes off, does that mean something needs to be done with the rp2040?
A (hopefully) final update to my first switch hacking saga. XD
I got my wireless function working again, and I managed to get rid of my slow emmc mode!
At some point during my hacking endeavors, I ripped the Dat0 trace and rendered my console unbootable...
While repairing that, I also ripped the CLK trace... So I scraped some of the solder mask away on the trace, then used uv-cure resin to mask off all the surrounding solder pads. I soldered to the tiniest pad that you can see above to the trace I exposed with 40awg magnet wire, then covered the whole thing in uv resin. I had to also repeat this process on the CLK trace.
Once I had finally gotten finished cleaning up my attempted failure of soldering to the emmc port pins (I shorted a bunch to ground since basically every other pin on the port is a GND pin -_-) I realized I had accidentally blown/brushed the tiny capacitors to the left of the APU shielding off, and these are ABSOLUTELY VITAL to the functioning of both wifi and bluetooth of the console. I repeat, if you rip these caps off, the joycons won't work unless docked in the switch, and you won't have wifi.
Here are the caps in question after I repaired them (I ALMOST ripped the trace of the one closest to the APU enough that I couldn't recover, but luckily I was able to offset the cap to hit the trace and the remaining pad on the circuit.)
And finally, if the above image doesn't QUITE give you the understanding of scale as to just how TINY these things are (literally smaller than a grain of rice) here is a photo of a single capacitor, resting on the pad of my thumb, a mere 2 finger-print traces long, perhaps 1 finger-print trace wide.
This was a real burning crucible experiment for me. Failing to fix this would mean I had a functioning switch, but no wifi and no wireless controllers could be used. I have an 8bitdo arcade stick that's compatible that would have been USELESS without this being fixed. I spent approximately FIVE HOURS positioning, cleaning, fluxing, tweezing, tweeking, nudging, holding my breath, swearing quietly, stabbing myself accidentally with pointy tweezers, and then finally getting a good connection on both capacitors to end with a RESOUNDING SUCCESS OF WORKING WIRELESS!
As far as my slow emmc problems go, I have a patched V1 and had 47O (47 ohm +/- 5%) on DAT0, CMD, and CLK, and hekate was reporting half-speed on my emmc. I replaced the 47O with 47RO (47 ohm +/- 1%) on CLK, and then put two 47RO in series on DAT0 and CMD to give them a total of 94 ohms resistance each. Doing this seems to have solved my slow emmc problems.
I'll be around, because I still have my GF's switch lite to hack, and potentially a few friend's switches. Keep hacking guys and gals, and if you think you've toasted your console, just consider how much I had to Frankenstein mine to keep it alive, and DON'T give up.
I got my wireless function working again, and I managed to get rid of my slow emmc mode!
At some point during my hacking endeavors, I ripped the Dat0 trace and rendered my console unbootable...
While repairing that, I also ripped the CLK trace... So I scraped some of the solder mask away on the trace, then used uv-cure resin to mask off all the surrounding solder pads. I soldered to the tiniest pad that you can see above to the trace I exposed with 40awg magnet wire, then covered the whole thing in uv resin. I had to also repeat this process on the CLK trace.
Once I had finally gotten finished cleaning up my attempted failure of soldering to the emmc port pins (I shorted a bunch to ground since basically every other pin on the port is a GND pin -_-) I realized I had accidentally blown/brushed the tiny capacitors to the left of the APU shielding off, and these are ABSOLUTELY VITAL to the functioning of both wifi and bluetooth of the console. I repeat, if you rip these caps off, the joycons won't work unless docked in the switch, and you won't have wifi.
Here are the caps in question after I repaired them (I ALMOST ripped the trace of the one closest to the APU enough that I couldn't recover, but luckily I was able to offset the cap to hit the trace and the remaining pad on the circuit.)
And finally, if the above image doesn't QUITE give you the understanding of scale as to just how TINY these things are (literally smaller than a grain of rice) here is a photo of a single capacitor, resting on the pad of my thumb, a mere 2 finger-print traces long, perhaps 1 finger-print trace wide.
This was a real burning crucible experiment for me. Failing to fix this would mean I had a functioning switch, but no wifi and no wireless controllers could be used. I have an 8bitdo arcade stick that's compatible that would have been USELESS without this being fixed. I spent approximately FIVE HOURS positioning, cleaning, fluxing, tweezing, tweeking, nudging, holding my breath, swearing quietly, stabbing myself accidentally with pointy tweezers, and then finally getting a good connection on both capacitors to end with a RESOUNDING SUCCESS OF WORKING WIRELESS!
As far as my slow emmc problems go, I have a patched V1 and had 47O (47 ohm +/- 5%) on DAT0, CMD, and CLK, and hekate was reporting half-speed on my emmc. I replaced the 47O with 47RO (47 ohm +/- 1%) on CLK, and then put two 47RO in series on DAT0 and CMD to give them a total of 94 ohms resistance each. Doing this seems to have solved my slow emmc problems.
I'll be around, because I still have my GF's switch lite to hack, and potentially a few friend's switches. Keep hacking guys and gals, and if you think you've toasted your console, just consider how much I had to Frankenstein mine to keep it alive, and DON'T give up.
Last edited by lightninjay,
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@ x65943:
If your throat closes, putting oxygen in your mouth will not solve anything - as you will be introducing oxygen prior to the area of obstruction -
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You either need to be intubated to bypass obstruction or create a stoma inferior to the the area of obstruction to survive
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JuanMena:
It was waiting for you to order another one.
Seems like, your PSU was waiting for a partner. -
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